JUju 


ALASKA 


D. 

REPORT  OF  THE  HON.  VINCENT  COLYER,  UNITED  STATES  SPECIAL  INDIAN 
COMMISSIONER,  ON  THE  INDIAN  TRIBES  AND  THEIR  SURROUNDINGS  IN 
ALASKA  TERRITORY,  FROM  PERSONAL  OBSERVATION  AND  INSPECTION 

IN  1869. 

UNITED  STATES  STEAMER  NEWBERN, 
Alaska  Territory,  November,  1869. 

DEAR  SIB  :  I  received  my  appointment  from  the  President  as  a  mem 
ber  of  the  board  of  United  States  special  Indian  commissioners,  on  the 
23d  of  July,  1869,  while  you  were  absent  on  your  tour  of  inspection  to 
the  southern  Indian  territory.  I  had  already  visited  the  Indians  in 
Eastern  Kansas,  Indian  territory,  Northern  Texas,  New  Mexico,  North 
eastern  Arizona  and  Southern  Colorado,  of  which  I  have  reported  to 
you.  Knowing  that  the  commission  had  arranged  to  visit  the  other 
portions  of  the  old  Territories  of  the  United  Skates  previous  to  my 
appointment,  and  that  Alaska  was  not  included  in  your  programme,  and 
that  there  were  reported  by  General  Halleck  to  be  over  sixty  thousand 
Indians  in  that  Territory,  I  thought  it  clearly  my  duty  to  visit  Alaska. 

As  neither  letter  nor  telegram  could  reach  you  in  time  to  secure  a 
reply  that  would  be  in  season  to  allow  me  to  accomplish  anything  after 
receiving  it,  I  had  to  leave  without  other  communication  than  simply 
notifying  you  of  my  departure  for  that  Territory. 

I  crossed  the  continent  by  the  Pacific  railroad,  and  from  San  Fran 
cisco  went  by  steamer  up  the  coast  to  the  Straits  of  St.  Juan  del  Fuca, 
and  thence  by  the  inside  passage  to  Alaska.  Our  steamer  stopped  at 
Victoria,  on  Vancouver  Island,  and  at  the  United  States  post  on  the 
island  of  St.  Juan.  The  earnest  .desire  of  the  people  of  British  Colum 
bia  for  annexation  to  the  United  States,  and  the  manifest  probability  of 
their  obtaining  their  wishes  at  an  early  day,  make  it  necessary  that  I 
should  give  some  account  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  that  Territory. 

THE    NATIVES    OF   BRITISH    COLUMBIA    AND    SOUTHEASTERN    ALASKA 
LIVING  ON  THE  STRAITS  BETWEEN  VICTORIA  AND  SITKA. 

It  was  the  latter  part  of  August  (27th)  when  we  entered  the  Straits 
of  Fuca.  The  morning  was  clear  and  mild,  and  the  Indians  were  out  in. 
their  wooden  canoes  fishing.  The  canoes  were  hewn  from  the  solid  log, 
varying  in  size  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  with  a  raised  prow  and  stern. 
The  men  were  dressed  like  our  fishermen,  with  the  exception  of  the  hat, 
which  was  a  broad  brim  running  down  in  one  unbroken  convex  sweep 
from  the  flat  top  to  the  outer  rim.  It  was  decidedly  Chinese  in  its  form, 
and  was  made,  either  of  carved  wood,  thin  and  in  one  piece,  or  plaited 
of  grass  and  painted.  Their  dwellings  along  shore  were  constructed  of 
split  boards'tied  together,  clapboard  fashion,  with  strips  of  sapling  on 
upright  poles.  Both  canoes  and  dwellings  resembled  the  pictures  given 
in  Vancouver's  description  of  1794.  Some  of  their  houses  were  of  colossal 
dimensions,  one  which  I  measured  being  80  feet  wide  by  200  feet  long. 
They  are  subdivided  within  into  smaller  apartments  for  families. 

There  are  about  five  thousand  of  these  Indians  scattered  along  the 


534       REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

shores  of  these  straits  from  Victoria  to  Portland  Channel,  the  boundary 
line  between  British  Columbia  and  Alaska. 

There  are  the  Nanairnos,  400 ;  Cape  Mudge,  100 ;  l^imkish,  200  ;  Fort 
Eupert,  100;  Nahwittis,  200;  Quatsinas,  150;  Wykenas,  100;  Bella 
Bella,  300 ;  Ketyagoos,  100 ;  Hydahs,  a  large  tribe  extending  up  into 
Alaska,  2,000 ;  Kit  Kats,  100 ;  Ket  a  Mats,  200.— (See  Appendix  A  1.) 

THE  SCENERY  AROUND  THESE  INDIANS. 

The  scenery  through  Johnstone  Straits,  Finley  Channel,  Hickish 
Narrows,  Frazer's  and  Mackay's  Eeach,  is  like  that  of  the  highlands  on 
the  Hudson,  only  the  mountains  are  loftier  and  more  densely  wooded. 

It  is  one  continued  panorama  of  grand  and  beautiful  pictures;  moun 
tains  2,500  to  4,000  feet  high,  rising  directly  out  of  the  water  at  an  angle 
of  from  45°  to  70°  ;  covered  at  the  base  with  a  heavy  growth  of  pine, 
cedar,  and  spruce,  and  festooned  between  with  a  drapery  of  hanging 
moss.  The  highest  peaks  are  bald,  with  gigantic  masses  of  dark  slate 
and  granite  towering  up  into  the  sky,  and  crowned  with  snow ;  streams  of 
water  glisten  like  lines  of  molten  silver  from  the  lofty  ravines  and  break 
into  sparkling  cascades  at  your  feet. 

The  cold  of  the  upper  air,  appropriate  to  this  latitude,  and  the  warmth 
of  the  warm  waters  from  the  Japan  Sea  current  below,  make  rapid  con 
densation — so  that  c]0ud  and  sunshine  alternate.  At  one  hour  fogs  and 
heavy  clouds  draggle  their  dreary  mists  over  the  gloomy  abysses,  and  at 
another  the  sun  breaks  through  warm  and  golden,  lighting  up  the  quiet 
stream,  wooded  hillside,  and  snow-capped  peaks  with  life  and  beauty. 
The  retreating  clouds,  filled  with  the  iris  of  the  rainbow  ;  the  wild  moun 
tain  sheep,  grazing  on  his  elevated  pastures ;  the  eagle,  sweeping  down 
upon  the  leaping  salmon ;  and  the  Indian  quietly  cooking  his  evening 
meal,  complete  the  picture. 

THE  INDIANS  OF  ALASKA* — TONGAS. 

The  first  place  at  which  we  stopped  in  the  Territory  of  Alaska  was 
Tongas,  an  old  Indian  village  near  which  the  United  States  govern 
ment  has  built  a  new  post.  It  is  located  on  one  of  the  islands  on  the 
coast,  near  Portland  Channel,  the  boundary  line  of  British  Columbia, 
being  the  first  practicable  harbor  found  on  this  lower  extremity  of 
Alaska. 

INDIAN  HOUSES  AT  TONOAS. 

I  regret  that  we  cannot  engrave  the  picture  of  this  Indian  village  at 
Tongas.  The  village  contains  about  sixteen  houses,  which  are  well 
built  of  hewn  plank,  one  story  high,  and  have  both  doors  and  windows, 
the  latter  of  glass,  the  sashes  and  glass  for  which  are  obtained  from 
white  people  trading  on  the  coast.  The  houses  are  about  40  by  50  feet 
square,  and  each  house  is  subdivided  within  into  smaller  apartments 
resembling  ships7  cabins.t 

*  See  Appendix  A. 

t  These  interior  apartments  were,  doubtless,  copied  by  the  Indians  from  ships'  cabins, 
as  these  were  the  kind  of  habitations  mostly  seen  by  the  natives  on  board  the  ships 
so  frequently  visiting  their  coast.  By  the  way,  this  illustrates  qiiite  remarkably  the 
ability  of  these  Indians  to  improve,  and  the  quickness  and  skill  at  imitation,  and  the 
map,  drawn  from  memory  only,  by  the  old  gentleman,  Mr.  Ebbitts,  chief  of  the  Tongas, 
particularly  illustrates  it,  marked  in  red  on  back,  No.  5.  In  pictures  Nos.  3  and  4,  you 
will  see  interior  views  of  their  houses. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       535 

These  cabins,  or  private  sleeping  rooms  of  one  family,  are  seen  in 
Sketch  No.  4,  built  on  raised  platform.  They  are  as  neatly  finished  as 
most  whaling  ships'  cabins,  and  have  bunks,  or  places  for  beds,  built 
on  the  inside  around  the  sides.  They  vary  in  size,  being  usually  about 
10  by  20  feet,  with  ceilings  seven  feet  high. 

Some  of  the  young  men  are  quite  skillful  mechanics,  handling  carpen 
ters'  tools  with  facility,  and  if  you  will  closely  examine  the  sketch  you 
will  see  that  there  is  a  floor  and  raised  platform  of  boards  neatly  fas 
tened  together,  below  the  private  cabins  or  rooms  spoken  of,  so  that  the 
amount  of  carpenter  work  about  one  of  these  houses  is  considerable. 

They  have  a  large  opening  in  the  roof,  through  which  the  smoke  of 
their  fire  passes,  as  seen  in  No.  4.  Usually,  this  opening  in  the  roof  is 
covered  with  loose  boards,  which  are  placed  on  either  side  of  the  roof, 
according  as  the  wind  may  blow,  always  with  an  opening  left,  through 
which  the  smoke  passes  out.  Sometimes  they  build  a  large  wooden 
chimney,  like  a  cupola,  over  this  opening,  but  more  commonly  it  is  only 
covered  with  boards,  as  described.  (See  Appendix  B ;  reports  of  H.  G. 
Williams,  Leon  Smith,  and  W.  Wall.) 

SUBSISTENCE  AND    TRADE  OF  THE  EASTERN  COAST  INDIANS. 

They  subsist  mostly  on  fish,  which  they  catch  in  abundance  with  but 
slight  effort;  salmon  ulicum,  or  candle  fish,  a  small  fish  somewhat  like 
sardines,  full  of  oil,  which  when  dried,  will  burn  like  a  candle ;  hence 
its  name.  These  fish  they  clean  and  dry  in  large  quantities  both  for 
their  own  use  and  for  trading  with  the  Indians  in  the  interior  for  furs, 
bear  and  deer  meat,  &c.  (See  Appendix  0;  report  of  F.  K.  Louthan 
and  Frank  Mahoney,  on  Trade  with  the  Indians.)  A  regular  trade  is 
thus  kept  up  by  them  with  the  interior  tribes,  and  they  are  exceedingly 
jealous  of  any  outside  interference  with  it.  Much  of  their  antipathy 
to  white  people  going  up  their  rivers  arises  from  this  cause;  the 
Coast  Indians  fearing  that  the  whites  will  steal  away  the  trade. 

THEIR  MERCANTILE  ENTERPRISE. 

Of  this  mercantile  enterprise  of  the  Alaska  Indians,  Mr.  Louthan  says: 

Whilst  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  whole  Koloshan  race  (the  tribes  residing 
on  the  southeastern  coast  of  Alaska)  are  the  same,  there  is  a  marked  difference  in  the 
wealth  and  condition  of  those  tribes  living  on  the  main-land  coast,  over  that  of  the 
islanders.  Position,  custom,  and  numbers  have  given  to  the  former  the  entire  control 
of  the  valuable  trade  with  the  interior.  There  are  five  of  these  great  mainland  tribes, 
each  warlike  and  powerful,  and  equally  jealous  of  any  encroachments  on  their  peculiar 
privileges. 

Beginning  north,  we  have  the  Copper  River  Indians,  variously  estimated  from  three 
to  four  thousand  strong.  But  little  is  known  of  this  people.  They  are,  however, 
known  to  be  very  rich  in  furs.  The  early  Russians  told  fabulous  stories  of  the  existence 
of  both  gold  and  copper  on  this  river,  which  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  the  Indians  are 
at  times  seen  to  use  these  metals  iii  their  ornaments. 

Next  in  order,  south,  are  the  Klahinks,  about  one  thousand  strong.  They  live  in 
the  great  basin,  or  park,  known  as  Behring  Bay.  between  Mt.  St.  Eli  as  and  Alt.  Fair- 
weather,  and  have  a  splendid  communication  with  the  interior  by  means  of  two  long 
fine  rivers  emptying  into  the  bay.  These  Indians  are  gentle,  hospitable,  and  kiud,  but 
are  poor,  having  been  neglected  by  the  traders  for  the  last  three  years.  They  are  in 
quick  communication  with  a  splendid  fur-bearing  country,  and  only  require  a  market 
to  develop  extensive  resources. 

Next  in  order  are  the  Hoonid  or  Grass  Sound  Indians,  two  thousand  strong.  They 
live  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  sound  for  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  and  are  the  oil  mer 
chants  of  the  coast,  taking  enormously  large  quantities  of  seal,  dogfish,  and  oulican 
oil,  which  they  barter  to  their  brethren  all  along  the  coast.  These  oils  are  used  largely 
by  our  Indians  as  an  article  of  food.  It  is  used  by  them  as  we  use  butter. 

At   the  head  of  Chatham  Straits,  almost  due  north  from  Sitka  two  hundred  and 


536        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

twenty  miles,  are  the  Chilkahts,  at  least  ten  thousand  strong.  They  are  a  brave  and 
warlike  people,  "  more  sinned  against  than  sinning."  I  have  had  much  to  do  with 
them,  and  ever  found  them  honest,  faithful,  and  kind.  Their  villages  extend  from  the 
mouth  to  a  distance  of  seventy-live  miles  up  the  Chilkaht  River.  These  Indians  are 
among  the  richest,  if  not  the  wealthiest,  of  our  Coast  Indians.  Large  quantities  of  the 
most  valuable  furs  are  annually  gathered  and  sold  by  them.  They  are  in  every  way 
independent.  • 

Twenty  miles  north  of  Sitka,  and  east  of  Admiralty  Island  seventy-five  miles,  are  the 
Takoos,  living  at  the  head  of  Takoo  Inlet,  on  the  Takoo  River.  These  Indians  claim  to 
be  richer  in  furs  than  any  of  the  tribes  around  them.  About  the  same  quantity  can  be 
got  here  as  on  the  Chilkaht.  Some  idea  may  be  gathered  of  the  large  trade  at  one  time 
done  with  them  when  I  state,  but  a  short  time  ago  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  made 
their  trade  loose  from  the  Russian-American  Company  fur  taken  in  a  single  trip  of 
their  steamer,  over  five  thousand  marten  skins,  and  other  valuable  skins  in  proportion. 
The  Takoos  number  about  the  same  as  the  Chilkahts,  and  are  a  proud  and  haughty  race. 
Gold  is  well  known  to  exist  anywhere  along  this  river,  but  the  Indians  have,  so  far, 
steadily  refused  to  permit  any  development."  (See  Appendix  C.) 

PROVIDENT   CARE  IN  PRESERVING  THEIR  FOOD. 

You  will  notice  in  Sketch  No.  4,  a  frame-work  erected  in  the  centre  of 
the  cabin.  On  this  rack  of  untrimmed  sticks  they  hang  their  salmon 
and  other  fish,  to  smoke  and  dry  them  over  the  fire.  They  then  pack 
them  for  use,  in  square  boxes  neatly  made  of  yellow  cedar,  smoked, 
oiled,  and  trimmed  with  bears'  teeth,  in  imitation  of  the  nails  we  use  on 
our  trunks — like  the  old  brass  nails  of  former  years. 

THEIR  TASTE  FOR  ART  IN  CARVING  AND  PAINTING. 

They  are  ornamented  with  figures,  faces,  &c.,  which  plainly  show  a 
Mongolian  origin.  This  small  sketch  is  like  them. 

Some  of  these  Indian  houses  are  quite  elaborately  painted  on  the 
front,  as  seen  in  Sketch  No.  3,  the  residence  of  Skillat's  widow.  Skillat 
was  former  chief  of  the  Stikine  tribe  of  Kolloshans.  The  Stachine 
tribe  are  at  Wrangel,  which  place  I  will  describe  directly,  one  day's  sail 
further  north.  These  paintings  have  an  allegorical  meaning,  and  fre 
quently  represent  facts  in  the  history  of  the  chief  or  the  tribe. 

In  front  of  the  entrance  there  is  usually  a  porch,  built  with  railing,  to 
prevent  the  children  from  falling  off,  and  you  will  notice  the  round  hole 
for  the  entrance.  They  are  covered,  inside,  with  heavy  Avooden  doors, 
securely  fastened  within  by  large  wooden  bars,  as  if  for  safety  against 
attacks.  The  doors  are  usually  about  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  their 
circular  form  resembles  the  opening  of  the  "  tepe"  or  tents  of  the  tribes  of 
the  plains  so  nearly  that  the  mind  naturally  concludes  that  the  habit  of 
stooping  to  enter  their  houses  was  adopted  in  earlier  ages,  when  the 
tent  was  the  habitation.  The  Pueblo  Indians,  in  their  adobe  houses,  in 
New  Mexico,  require  a  stooping  posture  to  enter  their  doors. 

In  front  of  most  of  the  cabins  of  the  chiefs,  large  poles,  elaborately 
carved,  with  figures  imitating  bears,  sea-lions,  crows,  eagles,  human 
faces  and  figures,  are  erected.  These  are  supposed  to  represent  facts  in 
the  history  of  the  chiefs,  as  well  as  being  heraldic  symbols  of  the  tribe. 
By  referring  to  Picture  No.  1,  you  will  see  the  poles  standing  in  front 
of  the  cabins;  in  another  sketch  not  engraved  is  an  enlarged  copy  of  these 
poles,  and  on  No.  5  are  some  very  curious  colossal  frogs,  a  bear,  and 
war-chief,  with  his  "big  medicine-dance"  hat  on.  All  of  these  things 
show  a  great  fondness  for  art,  which,  if  developed,  would  bear  good 
fruits.  It  also  shows  that  these  Indians  have  the  time,  taste,  and  means 
for  other  things  than  immediately  providing  the  mere  necessities  of 
existence. 

In  the  carving  of  their  canoes  they  display  great  skill,  making  them 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.      537 

entirely  by  the  eye.  They  are  as  accurately  balanced  and  beautifully 
modeled  as  possible.  A  copy  of  a  canoe,  with  a  group  of  Indian  women 
dressed  in  their  highly-colored  blankets  and  calicoes,  you  will  find  in 
Sketch  No.  10,  (not  engraved  in  this  edition.) 

DRESS  OF  THE  WOMEN. 

The  women  dress  neatly,  being  fond  of  bright- colored  calico,  muslins, 
woolens,  &c.,  as  usual  with  Indians.  They  are  quite  pretty,  and  their 
ignorance  of  any  law  regulating  the  relations  between  the  sexes  makes 
their  too  open  licentiousness  have  a  less  consciously  degrading  influence 
on  their  outward,  demeanor  than  with  our  white  women  of  the  same 
degree  of  vice. 

The  old  chief  of  the  Tongas  or  "Tont-a-quans"  tribe,  Quack-ham,  or 
his  English  name,  Captain  Ebbitts,  a  sketch  of  whom  you  will  find 
marked  No.  11,  is  an  intelligent  and  kind-hearted  old  man.  As  we 
were  leaving  his  house,  the  daughters  called  to  him  as  "  he  was  going 
with  the  Boston  men,"  as  they  call  all  Americans,  "not  to  drink  any 
whisky."  This  warning  proved  plainly  enough  that  the  Indian  women, 
like  our  own  poor  wives  and  daughters,  fully  appreciate  the  curse  of 
strong  drink.  (See  Appendix  D.) 

HOW  LIQUORS  ARE  BROUGHT  INTO  ALASKA. 

Among  other  goods  landed  from  our  steamer,  the  United  "States  gov 
ernment  quartermaster's  steamer  Newbern,  were  a  number  of  cases 
of  champagne,  porter,  ten  barrels  of  ale,  and  five  barrels  of  whisky, 
rum,  and  brandy,  directed  to  A.  A.  Q.,  post  trader  at  Tongas.  As  the 
order  of  President  Johnson,  under  act  of  Congress,  (see  Appendix  H,) 
expresslyjcoinmanded  that  all  distilled  spirits  should  be  sent  to  depart 
ment  headquarters  at  Sitka,  subject  to  disposal  of  General  Davis,  I 
inquired  by  what  authority  it  was  landed.  The  commander  of  the  post 
showed  me  the  papers,  which  said  it  was  "for  the  use  of  the  officers  of 
the  post?  which  he  explained  as  being  simply  a  "  form  of  expression!" 
As  there  were  but  four  officers  at  this  post,  and  the  Indian  village  is 
not  more  than  five  hundred  yards  from  it,  and  the  Indians  do  most  of 
their  trading  with  this  post  sutler,  I  thought  it  clearly  my  duty  to  speak 
of  this. 

PROXIMITY  OF  UNITED  STATES  POSTS  AND  INDIAN  TILLAGES. 

This  brings  me  to  consider  the  near  proximity  of  the  posts  in  Alaska 
Territory  to  the  Indian  villages— at  Tongas,  as  well  as  at  Wrangel, 
Sitka,  and  Kadiak,  the  commander  of  the  department  has  located  the 
posts  within  five  hundred  yards  of  the  Indian  villages,  so  that  the  soldiers 
as  well  as  some  of  the  officers  use  them,  as  you  can  easily  imagine.  The 
post  at  Tongas,  a  sketch  of  which  I  inclose,  (not  engraved,)  is  within 
three  hundred  yards  of  the  Indian  village,  (not  engraved.)  Though  they 
are  on  opposite  sides  of  the  island,  the  consequence  is  you  cannot  visit 
one  of  these  Indian  villages  without  meeting  some  soldiers  or  sailors 
wandering  about.  That  their  presence  tends  to  demoralize  the  Indians, 
and  nowise  better  the  soldiers,  is  undeniable.  One  or  the  other  should 
be  removed.  As  the  Indians  are  the  oldest  settlers,  the  post  has  been 
placed  there  recently,  and  the  Indians  perfectly  peaceable,  I  think  the 
post,  and  not  the  Indian  village,  should  be  removed. 

In  a  communication  which  I  received  at  Sitka,  October  25,  from  the 


538       REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

United  States  medical  director  of  the  department  of  Alaska,  Dr.  E.  J. 
Baily,  lie  says :  "  I  am  satisfied  that  little  or  nothing  can  be  done  until 
they  (the  Indians  of  Alaska)  are  placed  under  more  favorable  influences. 
A  greater  mistake  could  not  have  been  committed  than  stationing  troops 
in  their  midst.  They  mutually  debauch  each  other,  and  sink  into  that 
degree  of  degradation  in  which  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  reach,  either 
through  moral  or  religious  influences."  (See  report,  Appendix  E.) 

WRANGEL. 

This  village  is  about  seventy  miles  north  of  Tongas,  and  located  on 
a  tongue  of  land  and  curve  in  the  shore  of  Wrangel  Island.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  this  curve,  or  on  the  other  horn  of  the  crescent,  the 
government  post  is  located,  about  five  hundred  yards  distant,  with  its 
guns  commanding  the  village.  There  are  thirty-two  houses  in  the 
village  and  five  hundred  and  eight  inhabitants.  Of  these  one  hundred 
and  fifty-nine  are  men  and  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  are  women 
and  children.  (See  Appendix  Z.)  Of  the  men  about  one-half  are 
capable  of  bearing  arms,  (as  with  us,)  and  they  have  a  few  old  flint 
lock  muskets,  of  Eussian  make,  as  they  mostly  live  by  trading  with 
the  Indians  of  the  interior.  There  is  one  company  of  United  States 
troops  at  the  post.  (An  engraving  of  post  of  the  Indian  village  at 
Wrangel  is  inserted,  No.  1.) 

LIQUORS  BROUGHT  TO  WRANGEL. 

As  I  have  reported  at  Tongas,  so  it  was  at  Wrangel.  A  quantity 
of  porter  and  light  wines,  ten  barrels  of  ale,  and  five  barrels  of  distilled 
spirits,  (whisky,  brandy,  &c.,)  were  hoisted  up  from  the  hold  of  the 
iNewbern,  marked  for  Leon  Smith,  post  trader  at  Wrangel.  As  I  had 
called  the  attention  of  the  revenue  officers  to  the  violation  of  President 
Johnson's  order  in  landing  the  liquors  at  Tongas,  the  officer  command 
ing  the  post  at  Wrangel  asked  me  my  opinion  of  the  business.  I  called 
his  attention  to  the  wording  of  the  papers  permitting  the  shipment 
of  the  liquors  from  San  Francisco.  It  was  the  same  as  at  Tongas — for 
the  "  use  of  the  officers  at  the  post."  The  captain  read  this,  reflected  a 
moment,  and  then  said  that  he  would  not  permit  it  to  land.  The  beer 
and  porter  was  landed  and  taken  into  Leon  Smith's  store,  and  the 
whisky,  brandy,  rum,  &c.,  was  carried  up  to  Sitka. 

At  Wrangel,  as  at  Tongas,  there  is  no  medical  attendance,  nor  care  or 
supervision  of  any  kind  whatever,  other  than  military,  over  the  Indians. 
It  was  the  same  at  Sitka,  at  Kadiak,  and  indeed  all  through  the  Terri 
tory,  until  I  complained  of  it  to  General  Davis,  when  at  my  request  he 
promptly  and  most  kindly  provided  medical  supervision  at  Sitka  and 
Kadiak. 

Wrangel  Harbor  and  the  Indian  village  are  very  picturesque  and 
interesting  places.  I  made  careful  sketches  of  all  objects  of  import 
ance,  which  I  inclose. 

THE  STYCH1NE  RIVER. 

As  this  river  is  the  most  important  channel  of  trade  with  the  interior 
in  southeastern  Alaska,  I  arranged  with  Mr.  Harry  G.  Williams,  of  Phila 
delphia,  who  contemplated  making  an  ascent  of  it,  to  give  me  an  account 
of  the  river  and  the  condition  of  the  Indians  along  its  banks.  This 
he  has  done,  and  I  take  great  pleasure  in  submitting  it.  (See  Appendix 


REPORT   OF    THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS.      539 

B.)  As  also  a  report  on  the  same  subject  from  Leon  Smith,  post  trader 
at  Wrangel,  and  another  on  the  Sty  chine  tribe  and  village  at  Wrangel, 
by  W.  Wall,  interpreter,  will  be  found,  marked  Appendix  B  2,  B  3. 

SITKA, 

The  present  headquarters  of  the  department,  and  former  residence 
of  the  Bussian  governor.  We  were  most  cordially  welcomed  by  General 
Davis,  and  every  assistance  which  both  himself  and  the  officers  of  the 
department  could  be  given  to  further  the  objects  of  our  visit  was 
extended  toward  us. 

The  liquor  received  from  Wrangel  was  landed  and  placed  in  charge 
of  the  revenue  officers,  and  the  steamer  Lincoln  was  dispatched 
promptly  by  the  collector  of  the  port  for  the  five  barrels  which  had 
been  landed  at  Tongas.  The  promptness  of  sending  for  this  liquor 
was  owing,  in  part,  to  the  suspicion  that  a  large  quantity  of  liquor,  in 
addition  to  the  five  barrels  landed,  had  been  smuggled  ashore  as 
molasses.  This  suspicion  was  unfounded. 

LIQUOR,  AFTER    CONFISCATION,  SOLD    AT    PUBLIC  AUCTION  IN  SITKA. 

A  large  quantity  (nine  hundred  gallons)  of  pure  alcohol,  marked 
"coal  oil,"  and  directed  to  the  care  of  the  post  traders  at  Sitka,  was 
landed  at  Sitka  from  our  steamer,  the  Newbern.  This  fraud  was 
detected  by  Inspector  Andrew  Keed,  and  the  liquor  was  confiscated  by 
Collector  Kapus. 

Liquors  thus  confiscated  are  kept  in  the  storehouse  a  certain  length 
of  time,  advertised,  and  then  sold  at  public  auction  by  the  collector 
of  the  port.  Of  course,  so  long  as  this  practice  prevails  the  law  of  Con 
gress,  as  a  means  for  preventing  the  Indians  from  getting  liquor,  is  a 
farce.  For  it  is  thus  scattered  broadcast  over  the  Territory. 

Medical  Director  Bailey,  in  his  report  (Appendix  E)  before  alluded 
to,  says : "  Whiskey  has  been  sold  in  the  streets  by  government  officers  at 
public  auction,  and  examples  of  drunkenness  are  set  before  them  almost 
daily,  so  that,  in  fact,  the  principal  teaching  they  are  at  present  receiving 
is  that  drunkenness  and  debauchery  are  held  by  us  not  as  criminal  and 
unbecoming  a  Christian  people,  but  as  indications  of  our  advanced  and 
superior  civilization.  These  Indians  are  a  civil  and  well-behaved 
people.  They  do  not  want  bayonets  to  keep  them  in  subjection,  but 
they  do  need  honest,  faithful,  and  Christian  workers  among  them,  who 
will  care  for  them,  teach  and  instruct  them  in  useful  arts,  and  that  they 
are  responsible  beings. 

MEDICAL  ATTENDANCE  FURNISHED  BY  GENERAL  DAVIS. 

Passing  up  the  street  at  Sitka  (there  is  but  one)  I  met  a  crowd  col 
lected  around  an  Indian  girl.  She  was  moaning,  in  great  pain,  and 
lying  uncared  for  on  the  sidewalk.  I  asked  "  why  they  did  not  take 
her  to  the  hospital,"  and  was  informed  that  "  there  was  no  provision 
made  for  Indians  at  the  hospital."  General  Davis  happening  to  pass 
at  that  moment  gave  me  permission,  and,  assisted  by  two  Indians,  I 
carried  her  to  the  United  States  hospital.  She  was  placed  in  a  wretched, 
tumble-down  part  of  the  building,  and  medicine  given  her.  The  next 
day  General  Davis  humanely  issued  an  order  detailing  Doctor  J.  G. 
Tonner  to  act  as  surgeon  in  charge  of  the  Indians  near  the  town. 
On  my  return  from  the  west,  six  weeks  later,  Dr.  Tonner  gave  me  a 


540       REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

copy  of  his  own  excellent  first  report  on  the  sanitary  condition  of  the 
Sitka  tribe  of  Indians,  which  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix  E. 

The  Indian  village  up  to  this  time  had  received  no  sanitary  super 
vision.  Its  proximity  to  the  town  would  seem  to  require  this  for  the 
Indian,  without  considering  the  claims  of  humanity. 

As  the  Indians  supply  the  town  with  most  of  its  provisions,  (see 
report  of  ex-Mayor  Dodge,  Appendix  L,)  the  condition  of  the  place 
where  they  met  the  whites  at  the  gate  of  the  stockade  dividing  the 
two  peoples  attracted  my  attention.  It  was  a  wet,  filthy,  broken  down 
old  shed,  and  as  soon  as  the,  commanding  general's  attention  was 
called  to  it  he  ordered  a  new  and  convenient  market-house  built. 

The  Sitka  Indians,  who  number  about  1,250  souls,  are  admitted  through 
the  gate  of  the  town  at  sunrise  and  move  around  at  pleasure  through 
the  day.  Many  of  them  are  idle  and  waste  their  time  in  gambling  in 
the  recesses  of  the  houses  of  the  whites.  They  paint  their  faces  with 
black  and  red,  looking  hideously. 

EAGERNESS  OF  THE  SITKA  INDIANS  TO  IMPROVE. 

Hearing  a  difference  of  opinion  concerning  the  willingness  of  the 
Indian  to  change  his  habits,  I  called  a  meeting  of  their  chiefs  at  the 
headquarters  of  the  commanding  general  of  the  department  of  Alaska 
on  last  Tuesday.  General  Davis,  Col.  Brady,  Dr.  Bailey,  and  Captain 
Mclntyre,  of  the  army,  and  Madame,  the  widow  of  Michaloff,  late 
chief  of  the  Sitkas,  were  present.  Messrs.  David  Shirpser,  Sukoff, 
and  William  Phillips  acted  as  interpreters.  The  object  of  the  meeting 
was  to  ascertain  if  the  Indians  would  care  to  have  schools  established 
among  them ;  a  sanitary  supervision  exercised  over  their  village,  and  a 
hospital  and  medical  attendance  provided  for  them.  To  all  of  these 
proposals  the  Sitkas  gratefully  assented,  promising  to  use  their  best 
endeavors  to  secure  the  attendance  of  their  children  and  unemployed 
grown  people  at  schools,  and  to  find  help  to  aid  the  sanitary  superin 
tendent  in  his  efforts  to  cleanse  and  improve  their  village.  They  con 
sented  also  to  a  grant  of  land  on  the  hill-top  for  the  erection  of  a  new 
market  for  their  benefit  and  the  people's  convenience,  and  agreed  to 
remove  such  of  their  dead  as  might  be  in  the  way  of  the  new  enter 
prise.  When  the  question  was  asked  if  they  wished  for  a  freer  traffic 
in  whisky  for  their  tribe,  they  said  most  emphatically  that  they  did 
not,  and  gave  that  as  the  cause  of  a  riotous  disturbance  in  their  village 
the  night  before.  The  interview  was  a  most  agreeable  one,  and  "  pot 
latching"  or  entertainment  was  not  resorted  to. 

The  chiefs  reprobated  the  habit  of  some  of  their  umore  ignorant,"  as 
they  called  them,  Indians  painting  their  faces;  and  for  the  habit  of  gam 
bling  and  loafing,  they  gave  the  same  reason  as  that  given  by  the 
Navajoes  in  New  Mexico,  that  the  young  men  wouldnot  obey  the  chiefs, 
and  that  the  chiefs  had  no  power  to  enforce  their  orders.  They  said 
they  would  be  glad  if  our  officers  would  break  up  the  gambling  habits, 
which  Colonel  Brady,  commanding  the  post,  with  his  characteristic 
energy  and  ability,  proceeded  the  next  day  to  do. 

UNPUNISHED  MURDER  OF  A  CHILCAT  INDIAN. 

On  my  way  up  in  the  steamer,  Mr.  Frank  K.  Louthan,  post  trader  at 
Sitka,  told  me  of  the  killing  of  a  Chilcat  Indian,  visiting  Sitka,  by  a 
young  man  named  J.  C.  Parker,  employed  as  clerk  in  his  store.  "  The 
Indian,"  he  said,  "  was  in  company  with  several  others,  standing  leaning 


REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS.      541 

against  a  show  case  in  his  store,  in  March  last.  The  Indian,  in  leaning 
on  the  glass,  either  intentionally  for  the  purpose  of  stealing,  as  Parker 
claims,  or  accidentally,  as  many  assert,  broke  the  glass.  Parker,  who 
it  is  claimed  has  an  old  grudge  against  Indians,  came  toward  the  In 
dian,  who,  becoming  alarmed,  immediately  ran  out  of  the  store  toward 
the  Indian  village.  Parker  stepped  back  into  the  store,  took  a  Henry 
repeating  rifle,  followed  after  the  Indian  and  shot  him,  so  that  he  soon 
died."  On  my  arrival  at  Sitka  I  inquired  of  General  Davis  what  had 
been  done  with  Parker,  as  I  had  been  introduced  to  him  as  United  States 
inspector  of  customs  at  Tongas.  The  general  told  me  that  Parker  had 
been  tried  by  military  court-martial  and  acquitted,  and  frankly  handed 
me  a  copy  of  the  trial.  I  introduce  it  in  the  Appendix  E.  In  looking 
over  the  evidence  of  Mr.  Louthan,  in  that  trial,  it  will  be  seen  that  he 
knew  "  nothing,"  while  in  his  letter  to  me,  in  Appendix  0,  he  distinctly 
states  in  writing,  that  this  young  man  killed  the  Indian. 

As  this  report  was  going  to  press  I  received  a  letter  from  Dr.  J.  G. 
Towner,  at  Sitka,  informing  me  that  this  same  miscreant,  Parker,  had 
shot  another  Indian  in  the  streets  of  Sitka,  in  the  early  part  of  January, 
1870.  It  seems  that  Parker  had  been  relieved  as  revenue  officer  at  Ton 
gas  and  appointed  policeman  at  Sitka,  and  one  morning  early,  seeing 
an  Indian  passing  around  a  corner,  deliberately  took  up  his  gun  and 
shot.  As  in  the  first  instance,  Parker  trumps  up  a  story,  the  Indian 
looked  as  though  he  was  about  to  steal  something. 

This  is  the  legitimate  fruit  of  the  farcical  military  court-martial  re 
ported  in  Appendix  E.  And  it  is  because  there  is,  apparently,  no  cessa 
tion  of  abuses  like  the  above,  that  it  becomes  our  duty  to  state  unre 
servedly  many  disagreeable  facts  which  we  would  otherwise  gladly 
have  omitted. 

KADIAK. 

On  the  18th  of  September  we  left  Sitka  for  Kadiak ;  Generals  Davis, 
Thompkins,  and  Ihrie,  with  Judge  Storer  and  Mr.  Murphy,  editor  of 
Alaska  Times,  and  other  officers  and  gentlemen  as  fellow-passengers. 

We  found  a  center  for  a  large  number  of  Indian  villages.  The  Indians 
come  in  their  skin  canoes,  or  bidarks,  from  all  parts  of  the  island  and  ad 
jacent  coast  to  trade.  For  their  names  and  numbers,  see  Appendix  M. 

There  are  only  three  traders  at  Kadiak,  but  these  supply  the  natives 
with  goods  at  fair  prices.  The  practice  of  the  old  Eussian  fur  company 
was  to  advance  supplies  to  the  Indians,  and  take  their  furs  the  succeed 
ing  season  for  pay.  This  habit  is  still  popular  with  the  natives,  and  in 
the  hands  of  selfish  traders  works  as  injuriously  with  the  Indians  as  with 
every  one.  One  of  the  methods  used  was  for  the  trader  to  purchase 
and  own  all  the  bidarkas  or  skin  canoes,  without  which  the  native  can 
not  catch  the  sea  otter,  or  fish. 

The  residents  at  Kadiak  are  mostly  Creoles,  or  half-breed  Indian  and 
Eussian,  while  in  nearly  all  the  other  villages  in  the  vicinity  they  are 
full-blooded  Aleutes. 

WOOD  ISLAND. 

At  Wood  Island,  about  five  miles  from  the  village  of  Saint  Paul,  or 
Kadiak  proper,  there  is  a  settlement  of  Aleutes,  who  are  employed  by 
the  American-Eussian  Ice  Company  of  California.  As  this  company 
have  extensive  ice  houses  on  the  island,  and  rely  for  nearly  all  their 
heavy  labor  upon  the  Aleutes,  I  was  glad  to  hear  the  superintendent  say 


542        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

that  the  company  intended  to  do  considerable  toward  advancing  the 
natives  here  in  comfort  and  education.  There  is  much  need  of  it. 
Little  or  no  care  is  shown  in  the  laying  out  of  the  village,  construction 
of  the  dwellings,  or  education  of  the  people.  With  the  means  at  the 
command  of  this  company,  the  reputation  of  its  officers  for  liberality, 
and  the  advantage  which  must  return  to  it  in  a  generous  policy  toward 
its  employes,  one  can  readily  believe  that  it  will  soon  effect  the  much 
needed  reforms. 

At  present  the  houses  are  small,  poorly  ventilated,  carelessly  tossed 
together  huts. 

There  is  no  school-teacher,  missionary,  resident  physician,  or  medical 
supervision.  The  only  store  on  the  island  belongs  to  the  ice  company, 
and  the  natives  can  trade  there,  or  row  over  to  Kodiak  for  their  sup 
plies.  The  prices  charged  for  goods  was  about  one-third  more  than  at 
San  Francisco. 

Below  Kadiak  about  a  mile,  we  found  a  settlement  of  Kolosh  Indians, 
from  the  neighborhood  of  Sitka.  They  were  living  in  well- construe  ted 
log  houses,  built  above  the  ground,  with  glass  windows  aud  battened 
doors  and  shutters.  They  said  that  they  were  captured  when  young  in 
the  waters  of  British  Columbia,  sold  into  slavery  by  their  captors,  and 
brought  down  here  by  the  Eussians  to  save  their  lives.  It  is  said  to  be 
the  practice,  occasionally,  for  tribes  to  offer  up  living  sacrifices  on  the 
death  of  their  head  chiefs.  General  Davis  is  said  to  have  saved  the 
life  of  one  young  slave  from  this  fate,  and  the  Russians  appear  to  have 
done  the  same  thing  in  the  case  of  these  Indians. 

As  the  Aleutes  build  their  houses  mostly  under  ground,  these  high 
and  dry,  stout  and  clean  log  houses  of  the  Kolosh  Indians  contrasted 
favorably  for  the  latter.  It  illustrates  what  I  have  elsewhere  stated, 
that  the  Kolosh  Indians,  if  properly  cared  for,  surpass  the  Aleutes. 

The  natives  from  the  neighboring  villages  at  Kadiak  earnestly  im 
plored  me  to  visit  them,  and  I  deeply  regretted  my  inability,  for  want  of 
time,  to  do  so.  They  said  that  they  had  many  sick  and  poor  at  their 
houses,  and  now  that  the  Eussian  government  had  ceased  its  paternal 
care  over  them,  they  had  no  one  to  see  to  their  wants.  This  I  found 
to  be  a  general  source  of  complaint  along  the  coast  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands. 

MONOPOLIES. 

Several  of  the  large  American  trading  firms,  eager  to  obtain  the 
trade  of  these  poor  people,  are  endeavoring,  with  unscrupulous  energy, 
to  assume  control  over  them,  but  as  there  is  no  supervising  power  with 
proper  responsibility  to  whom  they  are  to  account  for  any  abuses,  the 
Aleutes  would  be  wholly  at  their  mercy. 

Messrs.  Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.,  who  bought  whatever  rights  the  old 
Eussian  company  may  have  had  left  when  the  Territory  came  into  our 
possession,  have  assumed  the  largest  amount  of  control  over  the  Aleutes, 
but  at  Kadiak,  Bellskoffsky,  Unalaska,  and  St.  Paul  Island,  where  I 
personally  inspected  the  operations  of  this  firm,  and  at  other  places 
where  I  had  evidence  from  reliable  witnesses,  I  found  no  indications  of 
any  other  relationship  than  that  of  traders  with  the  Indians.  I  would 
not  have  referred  to  them  here  but  that  a  bill  was  passed  through  one 
of  the  houses  of  Congress  last  year,  and  similar  acts  are  now  pending 
there,  which  virtually  place  the  Indians  of  Alaska,  and  reduce  them 
to  a  condition  of  serfdom,  in  the  keeping  of  this  or  another  large  com 
mercial  firm.  For  the  sake  of  humanity,  I  trust  this  will  not  become  a 
law. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       543 

Before  leaving  Kadiak  Island  we  were  destined  once  more  to  see  the 
workings  of  "  pay-day  in  the  army.77  It  was  the  same  here  as  down  in  the 
Cherokee  country,  at  Fort  Wiugate,  and  at  Sitka.  The  day  after  the  men 
were  paid  many  of  them  were  beastly  drunk,  and  while  in  that  condi 
tion  the  natives  had  a  hard  time  of  it.  The  officers  tried  in  vain  to  re 
strain  them.  I  passed  by  one  Creole  cabin  at  Kadiak,  from  the  inte 
rior  of  which  issued  the  shouts  of  the  drunken  soldiers,  while  at  the 
porch  stood  a  little  Indian  girl  the  very  picture  of  despair  and  distress. 

The  day  after  the  paymaster  left,  one  drunken  soldier  stabbed  another 
and  came  near  killing  him.  The  commissioners  will  please  bear  in 
mind  that  these  soldiers  are  the  only  police  or  representatives  of  law 
and  order  there  are  in  the  Territory.  When  they  act  in  this  way  it  is 
easy  to  conceive  in  what  a  condition  the  people  must  be. 

OUKAMACK  ISLAND. 

Ascertaining  from  a  trader  that  there  was  a  small  band  of  Aleutes  on 
Oukamack  Island,  who  were  likely  to  starve  to  death  this  winter  if  some 
one  did  not  visit  them  and  supply  their  necessities,  I  applied  to  Gen 
eral  Davis  for  provisions  to  help  them,  and,  as  usual,  the  general  gen 
erously  responded.  (See  Appendix  Z.) 

Captain  David  Evans,  of  the  United  States  revenue  steamer  Lincoln, 
with  characteristic  kindness,  sailed  nearly  thirty  miles  out  of  his  course 
to  stop  there. 

Oukamack  is  a  large  island  destitute  of  wood,  though  covered  with 
rich  verdure,  and  lies  southwest  of  Kadiak  about  two  hundred  and 
twenty  miles.  It  is  said  to  have  been  a  penal  colony  under  the  Eus- 
sians,  and  is  now  chiefly  famous  for  its  marmot  robes,  which  are  worn 
so  much  by  the  Aleutes. 

The  chief,  a  short,  stout,  intelligent-looking  man,  came  out  to  the  bay 
to  meet  us  in  his  "  bidarka,"  and  seemed  very  anxious  at  our  arrival. 
The  Indians  are  so  entirely  at  the  mercy  of  large  ships'  crews  arriving 
on  their  coast  that  it  is  no  wonder  they  are  solicitous.  On  landing  and 
making  known  our  errand  they  were  overjoyed.  One  venerable  Aleute, 
too  feeble  to  rise,  gently  pulled  my  face  down  to  his,  and  then  touched 
first  one  .cheek  and  then  the  other  to  his,  pointing  upward  and  saying, 
"  Jesus  Christus." 

I  gave  them  a  new  American  flag,  which  they  run  up  on  a  flag-staff 
near  at  hand,  with  cheers.  There  were  over  a  hundred  of  them,  with  a 
native  priest  at  their  head,  who  reads  Eussian.  They  had  plenty  of 
salmon  and  squirrels,  but  nothing  else— not  a  gun,  axe,  or  tool  of  any 
sort,  or  piece  of  twine,  or  any  useful  thing.  They  said  that  the  old 
Eussian  American  Fur  Company,  for  whom  they  formerly  worked,  came 
and  stripped  them  of  everything  when  they  left. 

They  were  intelligent 'and  industrious,  and  if  some  enterprising  and 
just  business  man  were  to  go  there  and  set  up  a  salmon  preserve  or  ice 
house,  (there  are  two  large  lakes  of  clear,  fresh  water,)  he  would 
doubtless  make  money,  and  could  benefit  these  worthy  people. 

From  Oukamack  Island  we  went  to  Bellskoffsky,  passing  Ounyi  and 
the  famous  cod  fisheries  on  our  way.  Some  of  the  officers  of  the 
steamer  said  that  on  their  former  trip,  in  passing  these  fishing  banks, 
last  season,  there  were  over  thirty  vessels  engaged  in  the  business. 

BELLSKOFFSKY. 

At  Bellskoffsky  we  found  the  natives  about  to  build  a  new  church, 
after  a  design  which  they  had  sent  for  from  San  Francisco,  California. 


544       REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

They  were  paying  for  its  erection  themselves,  in  sea-otter  skins,  thirty 
of  which,  worth  twenty-five  dollars  each,  gold,  they  had  already  con 
tributed.  This  shows  their  ability  to  support  themselves  and  bear  tax 
ation.  There  were  two  stores  at  this  place,  Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co., 
and  the  American  Russian  Ice  Co.  The  village  is  badly  located,  on  a 
plateau  close  to  the  sea.  The  anchorage  is  exposed  to  the  high  winds 
from  three-quarters  of  the  compass.  There  is  a  better  harbor,  west  of 
this,  near  at  hand. 

From  thence  we  sailed  to  Unalaska,  where  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
meeting  Mr.  L.  A.  LaGrange,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  the  account  of 
Unalaska.  (See  Appendix  Q.) 

ST.  PAUL'S  ISLAND — THE  LANDING. 

We  arrived  at  the  island  of  St.  Paul,  in  the  Behring  Sea,  on  the  morn 
ing  of  the  8th  of  October,  1869.  A  strong  current  to  the  westward  car 
ried  us  out  of  our  reckoning  over  twenty  miles. 

As  we  dropped  anchor  in  Southwest  Bay,  the  wind  died  away  and 
there  was  a  light  surf  breaking  on  the  beach.  There  is  no  harbor  on 
either  St.  Paul  or  St.  George's  Island,  and  vessels  have  to  wait  upon 
the  course  of  the  winds  to  make  successful  landings.  There  is  good 
anchorage  in  several  bays,  and  so  long  as  the  winds  remain  favorable, 
vessels  can  load  and  discharge  cargo  without  difficulty.  Captains  have 
to  keep  watchful  care,  however,  to  avoid  being  caught  in  unfavorable 
gales. 

Along  the  shore  of  St.  Paul's  Island  the  fur-seals  were  gathered  in 
great  herds,  called  rookeries.  They  were  evidently  excited  at  the 
approach  of  our  steamer,  and  t^eir  bellowing  resembled  the  sheep  and 
cattle  in  the  great  sale  markets  near  our  large  cities.  The  noises  were 
varied.  The  young  pups  at  times  bark  like  a  dog,  though  their  more 
common  cry  resembles  the  bleating  of  a  lamb ;  the  older  ones  bellow  like 
a  cow.  As  their  motion  is  slow  over  the  ground,  and  the  animals  smell 
strong,  they  are  not  unlike  a  herd  of  swirie,  though  much  less  offensive, 
and  incomparably  more  attractive  and  interesting. 

While  the  officers  from  the  island  were  assorting  their  letters  and 
exchanging  congratulations  with  their  friends  on  board  our  steamer,  the 
captain  lowered  a  quarter  boat,  and  arranged  for  the  passage  of  the 
interpreter,  Colonel  Wicker,  and  myself,  to  the  shore.  On  our  way  thither 
the  young  seals  assembled  around  us  in  large  numbers.  They  appeared 
delighted  at  the  presence  of  the  boat,  the  movement  of  the  oars,  and  the 
fluttering  of  our  United  States  revenue  flag,  and  after  looking  at  us 
with  their  dark  hazel  eyes,  large  and  beautiful  as  those  of  the  gazelle, 
raising  their  heads  erect  and  stretching  their  necks  as  far  out  of  the 
water  as  they  could,  they  would  dive  down  onty  to  again  appear  and 
take  another  look.  At  last  they  got  into  regular  order  and  motion  on 
either  side  of  us,  turning  somersaults  like  porpoises,  and,  forming  an 
escort,  accompanied  us  to  the  shore. 

PRIVATE  INTERVIEWS  WITH  THE  ALEUTES. 

Having  provided  myself  with  an  interpreter  in  whose  ability,  honesty, 
and  truthfulness  I  could  rely,  while  the  officers  walked  up  to  headquarters 
on  the  island,  I  went  into  the  cabins  of  the  Aleutes.  As  this  interpreter 
had  previously  resided  on  the  island,  the  Aleutes  warmly  welcomed  us, 
and  were  at  once  very  frank  in  their  communications.  They  said  that 
they  were  doing  about  as  in  years  gone  by ;  that  they  were  now  killing 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       545 

seals  three  times  a  week — on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays ;  that 
they  usually  killed  between  two  and  three  thousand  on  each  of  these 
days,  or  about  eight  thousand  per  week ;  that  there  were  at  the  present 
time  about  sixty  thousand  skins  in  salt  on  the  island;  that  these  skins 
were  stored  in  four  salt-houses  on  four  different  points  on  the  island ; 
that  one  of  these  salt-houses  was  near  at  hand ;  another  a  short  distance 
across  the  village,  on  Southeast  Bay ;  a  third  about  five  miles  to  the 
northwest  of  the  village,  on  Southwest  Bay;  and  the  fourth  fifteen  miles 
to  the  northeast,  on  Northeast  Point.  As  the  revenue  officer  in  charge 
on  the  island,  in  coming  ashore  with  us  in  the  long-boat,  had  said  that 
there  were  only  thirty  thousand  seals  killed  this  season,  and  only  that 
number  of  skins  now  on  the  island,  the  above  statement  of  the  Aleutes, 
doubling  this  amount,  arrested  my  attention. 

The  Aleutes  further  said  that  they  received  forty  cents  per  seal  for 
killing,  skinning,  &c.,  and  that  they  usually  averaged  fifty  skins  per 
day  to  each  man,  though  experts  could  capture  one  hundred  animals ; 
that  they  received  pay  either  in  goods  from  the  store  or  in  cash,  as  they 
chose.  The  killing  commences  some  years  as  early  as  June,  and  con 
tinues  in  a  fragmentary  way  during  July,  and  is  at  its  height  in  August, 
September,  and  October,  during  which  latter  two  months  by  far  the 
larger  number  of  skins  are  taken.  It  will  be  seen  by  the  above  that 
the  season  averages  not  more  than  sixteen  weeks,  and,  at  these  rates,  an 
able-bodied  Aleute  can  support  his  family  comfortably. 

THE  ALEUTES. 

There  are  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  natives  on  St.  Paul's  Island, 
and  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  on  St.  George.  Of  the  two  hundred 
and  fifty  on  St.  Paul,  not  more  than  fifty  are  relied  on  as  active  hunt 
ers.  The  women  assist  liberally,  both  in  carrying  the  skins  to  the  salt- 
houses  and  in  waiting  on  the  men,  carrying  water,  &c.  All  the  Aleutes 
are  nominal  members  of  the  Eusso-Greek  church.  A  few  of  the  more 
intelligent  can  read  and  write,  but  these  are  very  few.  All  of  them 
are  intelligent,  peaceable,  generally  industrious,  and  ambitious  to  im 
prove. 

There  are  about  forty  houses,  or  huts,  built  of  turf  and  grass  on  a  frame 
work  of  timber,  like  the  sketch  opposite.  They  are  about  twenty  feet 
long  by  fifteen  feet  wide,  with  roofs  not  over  seven  feet  high.  They 
resemble  the  huts  our  soldiers  erected  for  winter  quarters  during  the 
war,  and,  like  them,  while  warm  and  comfortable,  are  often  over-crowded, 
and  lack  both  light  and  ventilation.  The  light  is  admitted  through  a 
transparent  skin  or  bladder,  and  the  door- ways  are  usually  so  small  and 
low  that  you  have  to  stoop  to  pass  through  them.  The  furniture  is 
scanty  :  a  few  wooden  chairs  or  stools,  a  broad  bunk  of  boards  raised 
about  a  foot  from  the  ground,  on  which  is  usually  laid  a  mattress  of 
grass  or  straw,  with  a  blanket  or  two  for  sleeping ;  two  or  three  mar 
mot-skin  frocks  from  Oukamok  Island ;  some  Behring  Sea  duck-skin 
shirts;  water-proof  jackets,  made  of  the  intestines  of  the  seal ;  a  harpoon, 
bunch  of  arrows  and  bow  for  sea-otter  hunting;  occasionally  a  flint-lock 
musket,  and  a  copy  of  the  Eusso-Greek  and  Aleutian  Island  dialect  trans 
lation  of  St.  Matthew's  Gospel,  comprehend  the  whole  of  their  posses 
sions. 

The  Aleutes  were  silent  at  first  when  I  inquired  if  they  were  treated 
kindly  by  their  employers,  though  they  frankly  acknowledged  that 
they  were  better  off  than  when  under  the  rule  of  the  Eussian  Fur  Coin- 
35  i  A 


546        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

paiiy,  and  their  houses  were  improved,  but  as  that  was  a  condition  of 
serfdom  it  was  not  saying  much. 

The  price  they  paid  for  goods  and  provisions  was  not  high,  consider 
ing  the  distance  they  were  brought,  it  being  about  one-third  more 
than  at  San  Francisco. 

Several  of  the  children  could  play  skillfully  on  the  accordeon,  and  this 
I  found  to  be  a  favorite  instrument  among  them.  The  women  are  very 
handy  with  the  needle,  some  of  their  embroidery  and  sewing  being  as 
good  as  that  done  by  any. 

MONOPOLIES. 

The  meu  said  there  were  two  sets  of  employers  for  whom  they  worked 
on  the  island,  though  of  late  they  had  put  the  seal  skins  of  both  firms 
in  one  store-house,  and  all  things  appeared  to  be  in  common.  These 
two  firms  obtained  from  Mr.  McCullough,  late  Secretary  of  the  Treas 
ury,  permission  to  place  two  men  on  the  islands,  ostensibly  to  take  care 
of  their  buildings  only.  All  other  persons  or  firms  are  forbidden  to  land, 
the  act  of  Congress  of  last  year  expressly  prohibiting  the  killing  of  any 
fur-seals.  (See  Appendix  X.) 

This  apparent  partiality  in  favor  of  the  two  above-named  firms  pro 
vokes  wide-spread  dissatisfaction  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  probably  ac 
counted  for  a  great  deal  of  the  scandal,  so  general  among  the  people 
out  there,  in  regard  to  the  reported  irregularities  supposed  to  be  prac 
ticed  on  those  islands. 

Having  noted  the  above  statements  of  the  Aleutes,  I  left  them  and 
went  to  call  on  the  officers  and  present  my  letter  of  introduction  from. 
General  Davis  and  authority  from  the  President.  I  met  the  lieutenant, 
the  revenue  officer  in  charge  on  the  island,  in  company  with  Colonel 
Frank  W.  Wicker,  in  the  salt-house.  They  had  just  come  down  from 
headquarters.  Colonel  Wicker  asked  the  lieutenant  how  many  skins 
were  in  that  salt-house.  I  understood  the  lieutenant  to  say,  in  reply,  about 
twenty-eight  thousand.  Colonel  Wicker  then  asked  if  that  was  the 
only  house  in  which  skins  were  stored.  The  lieutenant  replied  that 
there  was  one  other  at  the  other  side  of  the  village,  in  which  there  was 
about  two  thousand  skins.  Colonel  Wicker  then  said,  "And  that  is  all 
there  are  at  present  on  the  island  ?  "  The  lieutenant  answered,  "  Yes.'7 
It  was  then  near  dark  and  we  left  the  store-house,  took  our  yawl  and 
went  on  board  the  steamer. 

The  wide  discrepancy  between  these  two  statements  of  the  lieutenant 
and  the  Aleutian  Islanders  caused  me  to  report  the  same  to  Colonel 
Wicker,  and  that  there  might  be  no  misunderstanding  I  put  them 
in  writing  and  officially  addressed  the  note  to  the  colonel. 

It  had  been  our  intention  to  leave  the  next  morning,  but  these  con 
tradictory  statements  caused  the  colonel  and  Captain  Evans  to  remain 
another  day  and  make  an  examination  of  the  island. 

The  next  morning,  Saturday,  October  .9,  we  landed  through  a  very 
heavy  surf,  and  Colonel  Wicker  commenced  making  his  examinations, 
asking  me  to  assist  in  the  measurements,  the  lieutenant  in  charge  of 
the  revenue  on  the  island  and  Captain  Evans,  of  the  Lincoln,  being 
present.  We  measured  one  pile,  carefully  counted  the  number  of  skins 
in  it,  took  that  as  a  standard,  and  then  measured  carefully  the  other 
piles. 

THREE    SAILORS  DROWNED. 

While  we  were  engaged  in  examining  the  two  houses  near  the 
village,  word  came  that  two  vessels,  a  schooner  and  a  bark,  were  hover- 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.      547 

ing  off  the  island.  This  called  away  Captain  Evans.  Colonel  Wicker 
and  myself  completed  the  measurements.  We  had  hardly  finished  this 
part  of  our  work  before  we  heard  the  cry  that  one  of  our  boats  with  a 
crew  of  five  men  in  it  was  capsized  in  the  surf,  and  we  hurried  down  to 
the  beach  only  to  see  them  struggling  helplessly  in  the  surf  an  eighth 
of  a  mile  away.  Captain  Evans  and  a  crew  of  ten  volunteer  Aleutes 
were  vainly  endeavoring  to  get  near  them  in  the  only  boat  at  hand. 
Above  the  roar  of  the  tumultuous  seas  could  be  heard  the  piteous  cries 
of  the  drowning  men,  and  there  was  no  adequate  means  at  hand  to  save 
them.  The  Aleutes,  after  several  narrow  escapes  from  swamping,  gave 
up  the  effort,  and,  rowing  behind  the  ledge  of  rocks  toward  which,  the 
drowning  men  were  drifting,  leaped  from  their  boat,  and  at  the  risk  of 
their  lives  went  through  the  breakers  and  brought  the  bodies  ashore. 

The  officers  of  the  government  and  the  agents  of  the  traders  on  the 
island  were  unremitting  in  their  efforts  to  save  the  lives  of  the  men, 
but  three  of  them  were  dead,  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  restoring  to 
life  the  two  others. 

THE  FUR-SEALS. 

This  painful  incident  occupied  us  for  several  hours,  and  it  was  afternoon 
before  we  were  able  to  start  across  the  island  to  visit  "  Southwest  Bay 
House,"  five  miles  distant.  Our  party  was  Colonel  Wicker,  Joseph,  the 
interpreter,  an  Aleute  of  the  island  as  guide,  and  myself.  We  walked 
over,  and  found  the  path  led  along  by  the  shore  through  half  a  dozen  large 
seal  rookeries.  From  a  count  and  measurement  we  made  we  must  have 
passed  by  on  this  shore,  five  miles  long,  nearly  a  million  of  seals,  and  yet 
this  is  not  one-half  of  the  space  they  occupy  on  St.  Paul's  Island.  They 
were  of  all  sizes,  from  the  young  pup,  about  as  big  as  a  very  large  cat,  to  the 
old  males,  as  large  as  a  cow.  Their  color  varies  from  a  gray-brown  of  the 
old  ones  to  a  dark- brown  in  the  young  pups.  The  females  seem  shorter 
in  the  neck,  and  had  the  wide  pelvis  common  to  the  sex.  They  meas 
ure,  by  guess,  about  five  feet  in  length.  The  male  seal  is  much  larger, 
measuring  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length,  and  weighing  over  a  thousand 
pounds.  Some  of  these  were  on  guard,  others  were  in  the  water.  I 
saw  nothing  of  that  systematic  herding  of  families  by  the  old  males 
referred  to  by  the  Russian  authorities,  probably  because  it  was  so  late 
in  the  season.  The  bachelors,  as  the  young  males  of  four  or  five  years 
are  called,  were  swimming  along  shore,  and  moving  with  the  crowd  of 
old  and  young  on  the  plateaus  above.  Some  of  them  could  be  seen  for 
half  a  mile  on  the  hill-tops  inland,  three  or  four  hundred  feet  above  the 
sea.  These  plateaus  extend  from  the  base  of  the  hills  to  the  sea,  a  dis 
tance  of  five  hundred  yards.  As  the  islands  are  volcanic,  the  sand  is 
broken  at  intervals  with  black  volcanic  rock  cropping  out.  The  seals 
appear  to  like  these  stones,  and  clambered  over  them  with  great  facility,, 
considering  the  peculiar  formation  of  their  flippers.  The  assertion  .that 
the  fur-seal  eats  but  little  food  from  June  to  September  may  be  true ;; 
certainly  there  was  little  or  no  offensive  excrement  even  in  October,, 
when  I  believe  it  is  acknowledged  that  they  do  get  some  food  from  >the- 
water. 

There  were  myriads  of  young  pups  along  shore  and  in  the  water,  ^nd! 
they  are  most  beautiful  animals.  They  will  nctr  always  run  at  your, 
approach,  though  generally,  if  they  are  between  ypu,#nd  the  water,  they 
will  hurry  off  to  the  water.  We  saw  but  few  sea-lions.  Our  guide  in- 
'  formed  us  that  they  frequented  the  northeast  point  more,  though  there • 
had  not  been  as  many  there  as  usual.  The,  AJ.eut.es  seemed  to  regard. 


548       REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

their  absence  as  an  ill  omen.  It  seems  that  some  years  since  all  the 
seals  left  these  Pribilov  islands  and  went  to  Behringand  Copper  islands, 
on  the  Russian  coast.  As  the  Russians  reserved  these  two  islands  in 
the  sale  of  Alaska,  there  is  some  solicitude  lest  the  seals  should  get 
frightened  away  and  go  there  again.  The  old  sea-lions  are  regarded  as 
the  pioneer  or  picket  guards  of  the  fur-seal,  and  their  absence  is  looked 
upon  with  distrust. 

The  skin  of  the  sea-lion,  as  well  as  the  flesh,  is  highly  prized  •  the 
former  for  covering  bidarkas  or  canoes,  and  the  latter  for  food.  These 
huge  animals  are  usually  killed  with  a  musket  ball. 

The  seal  pup  is  born  usually  in  the  months  of  July  and  early  part  of 
August,  about  a  fortnight  after  the  mothers  have  arrived  on  the  island. 

The  males  arrive  about  the  middle  of  June,  and  the  yearling  pups  fol 
low  their  mothers  the  latter  part  of  July.  The  young  pups  are  said  to 
be  in  no  hurry  to  go  into  the  water,  the  parents  having  to  force  them  in 
at  first,  when  their  elder  brothers,  the  bachelors,  take  charge  of  them 
and  teach  them  to  swim. 

In  killing  the  seal,  the  two  and  three-year  old  male  pups  are  chosen, 
both  for  the  quality  of  their  fur,  lightness  of  the  pelt,  and  to  preserve 
the  supply.  The  hunters  get  between  the  herd  and  the  water,  which  is 
"a  very  easy  thing  to  do,  and  drive  them  a  short  distance  inland  toward 
the  salt-houses,  when  they  select  their  animals,  and  with  a  hard  wooden 
-club  tap  them  a  light  blow  on  the  nose  or  head,  and  so  kill  them.  Care 
has  to  be  taken  in  the  driving  not  to  overheat  the  animals,  so  as  to 
loosen  the  fur  and  ruin  the  skin ;  generally  they  are  allowed  to  rest 
awhile  before  the  killing  commences.  The  guide  explained  to  us  that 
in  the  skinning  all  the  Indians  had  a  common  interest,  each  Aleute  doing 
his  best  and  sharing  the  receipts  ;  the  chief  receiving  an  extra  portion. 

On  our  way  we  passed  a  number  of  the  slaughter  places.  They  were 
much  nearer  "the  rookeries  and  the  shore  than  the  descriptions,  and  the 
much-talked-of  necessary  precautions  against  frightening  the  animal, 
would  lead  you  to  suppose.  In  some  cases  they  were  not  a  hundred 
yards  from  the  rookeries,  and  the  dead  bodies  were  within  easy  reach  of 
the  rambling  bachelor  seals.  Large  quantities  of  meat  were  wasted,  and 
in  many  instances  even  the  fat  was  not  cut  oif.  The  meat  of  the  seal  is 
of  excellent  flavor — I  should  think  quite  equal  to  mutton.  Our  sailors 
eat  it  with  relish,  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  it  could  be  salted,  preserved, 
shipped  in  casks,  and  soon  find  a  market.  As  it  now  lies  rotting  on  the 
fields,  the  smell  is  most  offensive,  and  as  one  of  the  slaughter  pens  is 
immediately  near  the  village,  the  marvel  is  that  it  has  not  bred  a  con 
tagious  disease. 

In  some  places  where  these  seals  have  been  thus  killed,  and  the  car 
casses  allowed  to  rot  for  many  years,  I  should  think  the  soil  would  be 
as  valuable  a  fertilizer  as  guano.  The  great  rank  grass  grows  above 
these  slaughter  places  in  rich  luxuriance.  As  ballast  it  might  pay  to 
transport  to  the  southern  ports. 

We  found  quite  a  large  lot  of  skins  in  this  "  South  west  Bay"  house, 

and  the  guide  assured  us  that  the  building  had  been  full  and  emptied 

-  about  a  month  before,  the  skins  having  been  carried  on  board  a  steamer. 

The  skins  were  packed  in  piles  with  the  fur  turned  inwards,  and  salt 
put  in  between  each  skin.  After  being  allowed  to  remain  awhile,  they 
are  taken  up,  refolded,  and  with  fresh  salt  made  ready  for  shipment. 

A  large  surf  boat,  made  of  the  skins  of  the  sea-lion,  is  used  to  carry 
them  out  to  the  vessels. 

On  our  return  we  passed  by  a  lake  of  beautiful  clear,  cold  water,  from 
which  the  natives  obtain  the  supply  for  their  village — nearly  a  mile 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       549 

distant.  Half  of  this  distance  they  carry  it  in  boats  by  water.  When 
St.  Paul  Island  and  its  immense  source  of  income  is  properly  cared  for 
by  our  government,  an  aqueduct  of  simple  construction  shotild  be  built 
to  convey  this  water  to  the  town. 

Therewas.no  sclied!*  worth  the  name  on  the  island.  The  Russian 
foreman  of  one  of  the  traders  professed  to  call  a  class  *of  five  or  six 
together  at  irregular  hours ;  but  I  found  he  thought  but  little  of  it,  and 
the  natives  regarded  it  of  still  less  value.  They  asked  for  schools  and 
teachers  earnestly. 

The  priest,  who  officiates  in  a  neatly-built  church,  receives  one  hundred 
and  thirty  dollars  per  annum.  He  is  not  in  orders,  and  hardly  ranks  as 
a  deacon  in  the  church.  The  priest  from  Unalaska  occasionally  comes 
up  and  administers  the  sacrament. 

The  chiefs,  of  whom  there  are  two,  get  forty  dollars  a  month  extra  pay, 
and  the  Avorkmen  are  divided  into  three  classes  of  different  degrees  of 
expertness  or  character.  Thieving  and  misdemeanors  other  than  drunk 
enness  are  unknown  among  the  Aleutes. 

On  our  return  we  found  our  guide  greatly  agitated  at  the  prospect  of 
punishment,  which  he  feared  he  would  receive  from  the  United  States 
officials  on  the  island  for  showing  us  the  path  over  to  the  remote  salt- 
house.  We  assured  him  that  his  fears  were  groundless,  but  this  did  not 
quiet  his  anxieties. 

There  were  some  cattle  and  sheep  on  the  island,  and  we  found  good 
grazing;  plenty  of  grass  as  far  as  we  went,  or  could  see.  There  are  no 
trees,  and  the  hills  are  not  generally  steep.  A  few  of  the  highest,  at 
a  distance,  I  should  say  were  not  over  two  thousand  feet  high.  They 
appeared  covered  with  verdure  to  their  tops.  The  cattle  and  sheep  are 
reported  as  doing  well. 

FUTURE  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  FUR-SEAL  FISHERIES. 

The  whole  management  of  these  islands,  and  the  obtaining  from  the 
fur-seal  fisheries  a  handsome  income  by  our  government,  is  a  very  simple 
affair.  One  capable  and  honest  man  with  one  or  two  assistants  on  each 
of  the  two  islands,  and  a  force  of  a  dozen  men  well  armed,  under  fixed 
regulations,  forbidding  the  killing  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou 
sand  seals  annually,  restricting  the  killing  for  the  present  to  the  Aleutes, 
paying  them  a  liberal  compensation,  providing  for  the  sale  of  the  skins 
either  on  the  island,  at  San  Francisco,  or  New  York,  and  exacting  se 
vere  penalties  for  all  violations  of  the  law,  would  regulate  it. 

The  officer  in  charge  should  be  a  first-class  man,  with  a  liberal  salary 
and  under  heavy  bonds,  as  his  life  will  be  an  isolated  one  and  his  temp 
tations  to  dishonesty  great. 

The  proposal  to  lease  the  islands  has  the  objection  that  it  revives 
the  old  fur  company  monopolies,  and  our  people  will  not  be  likely  to 
tolerate  this ;  and  as  it  will  require  the  same  amount  of  governmental 
watchfulness  and  consequent  expense  to  protect  the  lessors  in  their 
rights,  as  it  would  for  the  government  to  manage  the  concern  itself,  it 
would  seem  practical  economy  for  our  government  to  take  charge  of  the 
business.  Last  spring  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  at  San  Francisco 
appointed  a  committee  to  ascertain  the  facts  in  relation  to  the  fur  seal 
fisheries  of  Alaska,  and  report.  This  report  so  plainly  gives  the  view 
which  is  taken  by  a  large  number  of  people  in  California  that  I  inclose 
it.  See  Appendix  U. 

A  letter  from  Adolph  Muller,  on  the  prices  for  furs  ruling  in  San 


550       REPORT   OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

Francisco  last  October,  I  append,  0,  though  other  furriers  assured  me 
that  Mr.  Mailer's  prices  were  altogether  too  low. 

But  to  resume  my  narrative.  On  Sunday,  the  10th,  we  buried  our 
three  sailors,  Eichard  Livingston,  Lewis  Garlipp,  and  John  Beck,  with 
funeral  honors,  on  the  island.  The  last  rites  had  ffttrdly  been  celebrated 
before  three  Aleutes,  of  their  own  accord,  brought  forward  three  tall 
wooden  crosses,  and  placed  one  at  the  head  of  each  of  the  graves. 

That  afternoon  we  held  a  talk  with  the  Aleutes,  in  the  presence  of  the 
officers  of  the  island  and  of  the  steamer,  and  were  confirmed  in  a  con 
clusion  which  we  had  arrived  at  long  since  in  our  intercourse  with  In 
dians,  namely,  that  they  will  not  state  any  of  their  grievances  in  public 
in  presence  of  the  powers  that  are  set  over  them.  In  this  they  re 
semble  most  poor  and  dependent  people. 

In  the  private  interviews  held  with  them  two  days  before,  five  of  the 
Aleutes  complained  that  they  had  been  brought  from  Kadiak  Island  by 
the  agent  of  one  of  the  firms  on  the  island,  for  a  limited  period;  that 
the  contract  had  expired  some  time  since,  but  that  the  firm  had  since 
placed  a  hundred  dollars  each  to  their  credit,  and  now  claimed  to  hold 
them  another  year  against  their  will.  The  lieutenant  commanding 
St.  Paul  and  St.  George  Islands,  having  heard  of  this  statement  through 
Colonel  Wicker,  in  a  letter  to  the  colonel  denied  it,  and  declared  that 
the  Kadiak  natives  had  acquiesced  in  the  arrangement. 

VESSELS  SAILING  FOR  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

One  of  the  men  complained  that  he  had  been  shipped  as  a  sailor  to 
come  to  these  islands,  and  return  home,  but  that  when  he  arrived 
here  the  vessel  sailed  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  he  did  not  wish 
to  go.  This  last  statement  was  not  denied  by  any  one  present.  If 
our  steamer  could  have  stopped  at  Kadiak  on  our  way  home,  I  would 
have  asked  permission  to  take  this  man  home,  and  have  arranged  the 
best  I  could  for  the  others.  As  it  was,  I  could  only  commend  them  to 
the  considerate  care  of  the  United  States  officers  on  the  island. 

This  meeting,  as  well  as  the  burial  service  of  the  sailors,  was  held 
in  the  open  air.  The  sun  was  shining  clearly,  and  the  weather  was  so 
mild  half  of  the  officers  and  men  had  no  overcoats,  and  yet  it  was  the 
10th  of  October,  and  we  were  on  an  island  in  the  Behring  Sea. 

CITIZEN  ALEUTES. 

As  we  were  walking  down  to  the  shore  to  embark,  a  number  of  the 
chiefs  and  head  men  of  the  Aleutes  gathered  around  me,  and  in  private 
asked  me  about  our  form  of  government,  and  whether  it  was  true  "  that 
all  men  were  free  and  equal,"  and  whether  they  would  be  allowed  to 
vote  for  the  President,  or  the  tl  emperor,"  as  they  called  him,  thinking  of 
their  former  Eussian  government.  I  said  yes,  I  hoped  so.  They  shook 
ray  hand  warmly,  and  when  we  left  the  shore  gave  us  three  slow  but 
very  loud  cheers,  which  our  officers  and  men  returned  with  a  will. 

We  then  sailed  for  the  "  Northeast  Point,"  fifteen  miles  away,  to  make 
the  final  examination  of  the  skins  stored  in  that  salt-house.  All  along 
this  eastern  shore,  as  on  the  western,  which  we  had  passed  the  day  be 
fore,  myriads  of  fur-seals  were  congregated,  so  that  we  could  not  but 
conclude  there  was  a  large  million  and  a  half  on  the  island.  The  surf 
ran  high  as  we  landed,  and  the  men,  remembering  their  loss  of  the 
day  before,  shook  their  heads  doubtingly  as  they  dashed  us  through  it. 
We  thought  more  about  the  heavy  taxes  of  the  people,  and  whether 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       551 

the  Aleutes,  or  our  officers  on  the  island,  were  the  more  accurate  in 
counting  seal-skins.  We  carefully  measured  the  piles  of  skins  in  the 
salt-house,  counted  up  the  figures,  and  found  the  Ale tites  were  right- 
There  were  over  sixty  thousand  skins  on  the  island. 

As  if  reluctant  to  leave  the  three  brave  sailors  who  had  sacrificed 
their  lives  to  duty,  our  good  ship  Lincoln  "  missed  stays,"  turned  her 
face  to  the  island,  remained  immovable  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then 
slowly  obeying  her  helm,  steamed  off  toward  our  home  on  the  other 
side  of  the  republic,  six  thousand  miles  away. 

HOMEWARD   BOUND. 

With  all  sails  set  and  under  a  full  head  of  steam,  we  went  booming 
along  on  our  return  trip  to  Unalaska.  The  air  was  chilly,  and  as  we 
approached  the  volcanic  mountains  surrounding  Illalook  Harbor  they 
loomed  up  ghostly  white  in  snow  through  the  thickening  gray  fog  of  the 
gathering  storm.  We  anchored  that  night  in  the  snug  harbor,  and  the 
next  morning  was  as  clear  and  quiet  as  a  May  day  at  home,  not  a  sign 
of  fog  or  cloud  remaining.  Before  midnight,  however,  the  wind  began 
.to  blow  a  gale,  and  by  morning  we  had  dragged  both  anchors  and  were 
stem-up  high  on  a  reef.  We  had  to  lie  there  till  the  turn  of  tide,  and 
it  was  as  much  as  our  propeller  could  do  to  head  the  vessel  off  the  reef 
against  the  gale,  though  the  harbor  is  not  half  a  mile  wide  and  moun 
tains  around  are  two  thousand  feet  high.  The  storm  lasted  thirty-six 
hours,  and  cleared  off  as  suddenly  as  it  arose.  Xo  steamer  should  allow 
its  steam  to  get  down  while  lying  in  that  harbor  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  What  dangers  the  Aleutes  or  the  missionaries  have  to  encounter 
in  such  a  country,  where  all  the  highways  are  on  the  sea,  you  can 
imagine. 

OF  THE  TRIBES  AND   COUNTRY  AROUND  BRISTOL  BAY. 

The  country  was  reported  to  be  like  that  about  Cook's  Inlet,  on  the 
southerly  side  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  an  account  of  which  from  Gen 
eral  George  P.  Ihrie  is  appended.  It  is  said  to  be  a  level  and  extensive 
farming  country,  where  vegetables  in  abundance  and  cattle  and  sheep 
can  be  easily  raised.  The  natives  are  said  to  be  healthy  and  in  as  good 
condition  as  any  on  the  coast.  An  account  of  them  in  general  terms  will 
be  found  in  the  report  of  Frank  Mahoney,  who  has  visited  them,  which 
will  be  found  in  the  appendix. 

COOK'S  INLET   AND   KENAI  PENINSULA. 

For  the  following  brief  sketch  of  this  interesting  portion  I  am  indebted 
to  General  George  P.  Ihrie,  who  went  up  there  from  Kadiak  while  I 
went  westward,  and  who  afterwards  rejoined  us  at  Sitka: 

DEAR  COLTER  :   Inclosed  I  give  you  some  rough  notes  from  iny  private  journal: 

1869 — Tuesday,  September  28. — Commences  pleasant  and  cloudy.  Off  at  daylight  for 
Fort  Kenai,  situated  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Cook's  Inlet,  near  the  mouth  (right  bank)  of 
Kenai  River,  and  distant  about  two  hundred  miles.  Passed  Barren  Islands,  which  are 
most  appropriately  named,  and  had  a  fine  view  of  Point  Douglas,  about  sixty  miles 
to  westward,  covered  with  snow  from  its  apparent  base  to  its  summit,  and  estimated 
to  be  about  seven  thousand  feet  high.  At  6  p.  m.  came  to  anchor  in  English  Bay,  one 
hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Kadiak.  At  the  entrance  is  a  fur  trading-post,  now  con 
ducted  by  Hutchiuson,  Kohl  &  Co. ;  used  to  belong  to  the  Russian  Fur  Company, 
which  sold  the  best  of  the  buildings  to  H.  K.  &  Co.,  and  turned  over  the  poorest  to  the 
United  States ;  and  this  seems  to  have  been  their  rule  throughout  tjtie  Territory. 
Ends  dark  and  rainy. 

Wednesday,  September  29.— Commences  cloudy  and  windy.    Off  at  6  a.  m.,  with  head 


552        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

.vn  ami  wind,  and  came  to  auclior  at  3  p.  m.,  in  Cook's  Inlet,  about  six  miles  from  the 
fort.  The  officers  soon  came  off  to  visit  us,  and  tell  us  we  can  cross  the  bar  at  high 
tide  with  sixteen  feet  of  water.  Saw  two  lofty  volcanoes  to-day,  each  about  twelve 
thousand  feet  high,  and  one  in  active  operation,  emitting  a  cloud  of  dense  black  smoke. 
In  fact,  the  whole  western  coast  of  Cook's  Inlet,  down  through  the  Aleutian  Islands, 
and  across  (but  submerged)  to  Asia, is  nothing  but  a  mass  and  chain  of  volcanic  moun 
tains,  forming  the  connecting  link  between  Asia  and  America.  It  is  the  wildest  and 
most  chaotic  scene  I  ever  witnessed.  The  volcanic  western  coast  of  Mexico  and  South 
America  is  dwarfed  by  Alaska.  And  what  tends  to  heighten  the  awful  grand  view  is 
the  scattering  of  glaciers  in  the  gorges  of  these  volcanoes,  some  of  which  infringe  upon 
the  water's  edge. 

The  eastern  coast  of  the  inlet  is  almost  the  antipodes  of  the  western.  For  Alaska 
it  is  a  strip  or  belt  of  flat  alluvial  laud,  originally  a  sand-spit  and  covered  with  tim 
ber.  About  twenty  miles  eastward,  however,  is  a  chain  of  snow  mountains  from  two 
thousand  to  five  thousand  feet  high.  This  side  of  the  inlet  contains  numerous  ledges 
of  lignite  coal,  with  more  or  less  resin  in  it,  which  generates  too  much  caloric  for 
steamboats  and  railroads.  The  Russian  Fur  Company  attempted  to  develop  these 
veins,  but  found  it  wouldn't  pay.  Some  of  their  shafts  are  still  visible  at  and  near 
English  Bay.  Ends  cloudy,  with  rain. 

Thursday,  September  30. — Commences  cloudy  but  pleasant,  with  stiff  breeze.  Crossed 
bar  about  11  a.  m.,  and  came  to  anchor  in  Kenai  River,  mooring  to  stationary  anchors. 
Find  a  current  of  seven  knots  an  hour  hero  at  the  ebb  and  flood  of  the  tide,  and  sand 
all  around  us ;  pleasantly  located.  Went  ashore  and  found  the  fort  on  a  level  bluff 
about  one  hundred  and  iifty  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  inlet,  and  covered  with  coarse 
grass  and  small  trees.  It  is  the  only  piece  of  arable  land  larger  than  a  garden  I  have 
seen  in  Alaska,  and  grows  the  hardy  esculents,  but  not  in  perfection.  We  were 
shown  salmon  caught  in  Kenai  River,  four  of  which  rilled  a  barrel !  The  meat  is  of  a 
rich  red  color  and  acceptable  flavor.  None  of  the  Alaska  salmon,  however,  can  com 
pare  in  flavor,  according  to  my  palate,  with  the  salmon  of  the  Columbia  River  and  the 
southern  coast  of  Oregon.  Dined  with  the  officers  on  wild  geese  and  ptarmigan,  in 
which  Alaska  abounds,  and  were  shown  the  skin  of  a  monster  brown  bear,  just  killed 
by  the  Kenai  Indians.  Any  quantity  of  black  and  brown  bears  in  the  mountains  to  the 
eastward.  Looking  to  the  west  you  behold  a  perfect  nest  of  sleeping  volcanoes  of  all 
heights  and  sizes,  with  glaciers  of  cerulean  blue  ice  melting  among  them.  Grand 
sight,  this  chaos  !  Americans  can  no  longer  have  a  good  excuse  for  going  to  Europe 
sight-seeing.  A  summer's  trip  to  Alaska,  from  say  1st  of  June  to  1st  of  October,  will 
be  more  interesting  than  a  dozen  trips  to  the  Alps  or  Himalayas. 

The  weather  here  to-day  is  simply  superb,  all  that  heart  could  desire,  and  yet  we  are 
in  the  latitude  of  Cape  Farewell,  the  southernmost  point  of  Greenland  !  It  lasts,  I  am 
informed,  to  the  end  of  October,  when  it  grows  very  cold,  the  mercury  going  down  to 
thirty  or  forty  degrees  below  zero,  and  the  inlet  becomes  full  of  floating  ice. 

Monday,  October  5. — A  continuance  of  the  genuine  October  weather  of  the  Middle 
States,  and  the  road  from  wharf  to  the  post  very  dusty.  Steamer  almost  discharged, 
and  a  certainty  of  getting  off  to-morrow.  On  duty  on  a  board  of  survey,  to  inspect 
some  of  the  buildings  for  which  the  United  States  paid  two  hundred  thousand  gold 
dollars  to  the  Russian  government.  We  were  shown  a  lot  of  very  old  log  hovels,  and 
recommended  they  be  used  for  firewood  if  possible.  The  best  of  the  late  Russian 
buildings  are  claimed  and  occupied  by  Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.  There  has  been 
barefaced  swindling,  sufficient  in  connection  with  the  transfer  of  the  "  buildings  "  to 
make  a  saint  swear.  The  long  and  short  of  the  business  is,  the  agent  of  the  Russian 
Fur  Company  disposed  of  the  best  of  the  warehouses  and  residences  to  H.  K.  &  Co., 
;md  to  private  individuals,  for  "a  mere  song,"  and  then  turned  over  to  the  agent  of  the 
United  States  the  balance,  which,  with  very  few  exceptions,  for  appearance  sake,  are 
lit  for  firewood  only.  Ugh ! 

Visited  the  Indian  village,  about  one  mile  from  the  post,  and  found  them  and  their 
houses  like  all  the  rest  on  the  coast.  These  Indians  are  like  all  the  others  in  Alaska, 
.semi- civilized,  peaceful,  docile,  friendly,  and  anxious  and  willing  to  work.  Justice, 
kind  treatment,  and  prompt  payment  for  services  rendered  will,  in  the  course  of  time, 
change  them  to  law-abiding  and  good  citizens.  They  are  far  superior  in  habits  and 
industry  to  the  crafty,  marauding,  and  wandering  Indians  of  the  plains,  who  scorn  to 
do  anything  but  fight  and  hunt,  leaving  their  squaws  to  do  all  other  kinds  of  work. 

At  midnight  witnessed  the  most  gorgeous  curtain  aurora  borealis  eye  ever  beheld. 
A  rich  green  and  purple  undulating  curtain  seemed  suspended  in  the  sky  as  far  south 
as  twenty  degrees,  and  forming  a  perfect  arc.  At  the  west  £nd  of  the  curtain  were 
two  perpendicular  columns  of  light,  which  rapidly  traversed  the  curtain  from  west  to 
east,  and  vice  versa,  giving  to  view  every  possible  shade  of  the  two  colors,  and  making 
the  rays  fairly  dance  in  and  by  their  own  light.  Such  a  celestial  sight  would  alone 
compensate  one  for  a  trip  from  Europe  to  Alaska. 

Tuesday,  October  6. — Another  lovely  day.  We  bid  adieu  to  Kenai,  which  is  the  most 
desirable  place  to  live  at,  I've  yet  seen  in  Alaska. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       553 
GENERAL    CHARACTER  OF  THE  INDIANS  OF  ALASKA. 

Of  the  general  character  of  the  Indians  of  Alaska  I  have  collected 
evidence  from  many  sources.  It  is  wholly  from  those  who  have  visited 
the  Indians  at  their  homes  in  Alaska,  and  who  speak  from  personal 
observation  and  knowledge.  Coming  from  such  men — from  traders, 
trappers,  merchants,  and  officers  of  the  government — it  will  command 
that  respect  which  its  origin  deserves. 

First  among  these  in  extended  experience  comes  Mr.  Frank  Mahoney, 
who  has  been  among  them  for  the  last  sixteen  years.  Mr.  Mahoney  says 
of  the  natives  of  the  interior,  from  the  Yukon  to  the  Copper  Eiver,  num 
bering  five  thousand  souls :  "They  are  a  peaceable  race,  and  respectful 
to  the  white  man,  looking  upon  him  as  a  superior.  There  is  no  doubt 
but  that  in  time  they  could  be  shaped  into  useful  citizens." 

Of  the  Aleutian  islanders,  numbering  seven  thousand  souls,  he  says : 
"They  are  a  very  quiet  race,  and  nearly  all  Christians,"  (members  of  the 
Eusso-Greek  church.) 

Of  the  Indians  at  Cook's  Inlet  he  says :  "  They  are  a  very  sociable 
race  of  Indians."  They  number  about  eight  hundred,  and  are  called 
Kaneskies. 

East  of  Cook's  Inlet,  down  on  Prince  William's  Sound,  there  are  "  about 
four  hundred  Nuchusks,"  while  those  "on  the  Copper  Eiver  are  called 
Nadnuskys."  These,  together  with  the  Koloshans  of  the  southeastern 
coast,  numbering  eleven  thousand  nine  hundred,  he  considers  warlike. 

For  the  remainder  of  Mr.  Mahoney's  report,  which  is  full  of  interesting 
information,  see  appendix  C,  No.  2. 

Hon.  William  S.  Dodge,  ex-mayor  of  Sitka,  says  of  the  Alaska  Indians, 
as  a  whole,  "  that  they  are  not  at  all  to  be  compared  to  the  Indians  in 
habiting  the  interior  of  our  country,  or  even  to  those  living  011  the  bor- 
bers  of  the  Great  Lakes.  They  are  of  a  very  superior  intelligence,  and 
have  rapidly  acquired  many  of  the  American  ways  of  living  and  cooking. 
Their  houses  are  clustered  into  villages,  very  thoroughly  and  neatly  built, 
and  far  more  substantial  and  pretentious  than  the  log  houses  usually  con 
structed  by  our  hardy  backwoodsmen." 

In  this  description  Mr.  Dodge  includes  the  Stycknies,  Kakes,  Kootze- 
iioos,  and  the  Koloshan  tribes  generally. 

Of  the  Sitkas  Mr.  Dodge  says:  "They  supply  Sitka  with  its  game, 
fish,  and  vegetables,  such  as  potatoes,  turnips,  beets,  and  radishes,  and 
they  are  sharp  traders." 

Mr.  Frank  K.  Louthan,  post  trader  at  Sitka,  says  of  the  Sitkas:  "  They 
are  industrious  and  ingenious,  being  able  to  imitate  admirably  almost 
anything  placed  before  them."  He  tells  of  their  "  chopping  and  deliver 
ing  one  thousand  cords  of  wood  for  the  United  States  quartermaster, 
under  many  disadvantages,  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  it  would  have 
been  done  by  the  same  white  labor,  under  similar  circumstances." 

Mr.  Louthan  further  says :  "  That  our  Indians  are  susceptible  of  a  high 
standard  of  cultivation  I  have  no  doubt."  "  This  can  only  be  done  by 
the  aid  of  industrial  and  educational  schools.  The  missionary  is  work 
ing  to  good  advantage  at  Vancouver  Island  and  at  Fort  Simpson,  in 
whose  schools  can  be  found  men  and  women  of  high  culture  and  refine 
ment,  fit  to  grace  almost  any  position  in  life."  "The  Koloshans,  our 
own  Indians  from  Tongas  to  the  Copper  Eiver,  are  quite  as  intelligent 
and  easy  of  culture,  needing  only  the  same  liberal  system  of  education 
to,  in  a  very  short  time,  utilize  them  for  every  purpose  of  government 
and  usefulness."  (See  full  report  of  F.  K.  Louthan,  Appendix  C.) 


554        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

Of  the  natives  on  the  river  Yukon  Captain  Charles  W.  Baymond  says : 
"  The  Kaviacks  and  Mahlmutes  are  healthy,  vigorous,  fine  looking  men." 
Of  the  coast  Indians  near  the  Auric -Elver  he  says:  "They  are  kind, 
peaceable,  generous,  and  hospitable  without  an  exception ;  their  guest 
can  ask  no  favor  which  they  deem  too  great ;  the  warmest  bed,  the  most 
comfortable  corner  of  the  room,  the  largest  dish,  is  always  for  the 
stranger."  And  then  he  tells  a  beautiful  story  of  their  hospitality  to  his 
party,  for  which  I  refer  you  to  his  interesting  report. 

I  might  multiply  extracts,  but  must  not  lengthen  my  report  too  much, 

OF    THE    INDIAN    LAW    OF    MEMBERS    OF    A    FAMILY    AVENGING    THE 
MURDER   OF   THEIR  RELATIVES. 

Mr.  Frank  K.  Louthan  gives  us  in  his  report  an  instructive  account 
of  the  Indian  method  of  avenging  the  murder  of  their  blood  relations. 
He  says : 

The  failure  to  promptly  pay  for  a  real  or  supposed  injury  is  at  once  the  signal  for 
retaliation.  I  can  but  look  with  great  favor  upon  the  system  on  the  part  of  the  govern 
ment  of  adapting  itself  to  the  one  idea  "immediate  settlement"  with  their  people  for  all 
wrongs  of  magnitude,  (whether  on  the  part  of  the  military  or  the  individual,)  entirely 
upon  estimated  value.  This  is  the  time-honored  custom  of  the  red  man  in  Alaska,  and 
pertains  to  all  alike,  wherever  dispersed  throughout  the  vast  Territory. 

At  present  it  is  more  than  folly  to  attempt  to  induct  him  into  any  other  way  of  look 
ing  at  a  wrong  or  injury.  Authority,  with  definite  instructions  to  our  rules,  whether 
civil  or  military  to  in  this  way  settle  all  disputes,  especially  when  life  has  been  taken 
will  always  keep  him  (the  Indian)  peaceable  and  friendly,  and  in  the  end  save  to  the 
government  many  notable  lives  and  a  large  expenditure  of  treasure. 

I  am  led  to  these  reflections  by  observing  that  in  this  way  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
and  the  old  Russian  American  Fur  Company  have  for  nearly  a  century  lived  in  compara 
tive  security  among  the  Pacific  Coast  Indians,  failing  in  but  five  instances  a  confidence 
betrayed,  property  or  life  endangered.  Again,  my  own  personal  experience  is  a  powerful 
example  of  the  system  of  such  a  course.  Last  New  Year's  eve  a  difficulty  occurred  at 
the  market-house  in  Sitka,  between  a  Chilkaht  chief  and  a  soldier  sentinel,  which  re 
sulted  in  the  imprisonment  in  the  guard-house  of  the  chief,  and  through  some  unaccount 
able  manner  the  death  by  shooting,  in  a  day  or  two  afterwards,  of  three  Indians.  For  full 
account  of  these  early  difficulties  I  refer  you  to  a  report  of  General  J.  C.  Davis,  made 
about  that  time. 

Among  the  Indians  killed  was  one  Chilkaht,  one  Kake,  and  one  Sitka.  The  Kakes 
very  promptly  sought  the  usual  remedy ;  but  failing  to  satisfy  themselves,  adopted 
their  extreme  remedy,  "  an  eye  for  an  eye,  a  tooth  for  a  tooth;"  meeting  two  white  men 
near  their  village,  promptly  dispatched  them,  and  thereby  lost  all  of  their  village, 
burned  by  order  of  the  general  commanding.  Hence  the  so-called  "  Kake  war." 

For  nearly  five  months  no  coast  or  interior  Indians  appeared  among  us,  to  the  great 
detriment  of  trade,  the  Chilkahts  especially  keeping  themselves  aloof  from  us  all  winter. 
Well  knowing  the  chief  and  the  most  of  his  people  I  determined  to  pay  them  a  visit  for  pur 
poses  of  trade,  and  to  restore  friendly  relations.  With  a  small  schooner  I  reached  their 
village  in  May  last,  and  found  them  sullen  and  listless,  and  effected  but  little  in  any 
shape  for  several  days.  At  the  end  of  the  fourth  day  our  little  vessel  was  suddenly 
boarded  by  about  seventy-five  well-armed  men,  bent  on  satisfaction,  either  in  prop 
erty  or  life,  for  the  man  killed  at  Sitka  nearly  five  months  previous.  The  exigencies 
of  my  situation  required  prompt  and  immediate  action. 

Asking  from  our  closed  cabin  an  audience,  and  it  being  granted,  I  stepped  out  among 
them  with  my  interpreter,  an  Indian,  and  whilst  protesting  against  their  wish  that  I 
should  pay  for  what  had  been  done  by  our  military  chief  at  Sitka,  satisfied  them  by 
giving  them  a  letter  to  the  general  commanding,  asking  him  for  the  sake  of  trade  and 
security  to  life  to  pay  for  the  man  killed,  giving  my  promise  to  the  Indians  to  pay  for 
the  dead  man  if  the  general  refused. 

The  general  refused  to  listen  to  the  delegation  waiting  on  him  with  my  letter.  I 
returned  with  my  vessel  again  to  Sitka  and  to  Chilkaht,  when  I  promptly  paid  the  price 
asked,  thirteen  blankets  and  one  coat,  amounting  in  value,  all  told,  to  about  fifty 
dollars  coin.  I  feel  quite  sure  that  in  this  simple  settlement  I  arrested  serious  trouble 
to  myself,  and  probably  to  the  government. 

I  made  afterward  a  similar  settlement  with  the  Chilkahts  in  Sitka  for  one  of  their 
men,  killed  by  a  young  man  in  my  employ.  I  can  safely  say  that,  dealt  with  in  this 
way,  there  need  never  be  any  serious  complication  of  Indian  affairs  in  this  territory. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       555 
THE  SCENERY  OF  ALASKA. 

(The  sketches  referred  to  in  this  article  are  not  engraved.) 

On  the  eastern  coast  the  thickly  wooded  foot-hills  are  covered  to  their 
tops  with  the  Douglas,  Menzies,  and  Mertens  spruce,  trees  varying  from 
100  to  250  feet  in  height,  and  stout  in  proportion;  white  cedar,  sometimes 
150  feet  high ;  large  leaved  maple,  and  others,  while  there  and  to  the 
westward,  on  the  Kenai  Peninsula,  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  the  coasts 
of  Bristol  Bay,  strips  of  low  land  skirt  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and 
on  these  cattle  and  sheep  browse  and  fatten.  It  is  this,  variety  of  lofty 
mountain,  gently  undulating  lowlands,  and  clear,  deep  streams,  lake,  or 
sea,  that  makes  the  scenery  of  Alaska  so  attractive. 

The  sketches  Nos.  13  and  20,  Wrangel  Harbor,  Alaska,  and  No.  14, 
Moonlight  in  Sitka  Harbor,  will  give  you  but  a  poor  idea  of  the  beauty 
of  the  scenery,  yet  you  can  easily  see  what  a  chance  there  is  in  such  a 
country  for  an  active,  enterprising,  intelligent  race  of  people.  The 
Indians  of  Alaska,  considering  their  slight  opportunities,  surpass  all 
others  on  this  continent  except  the  Pueblas  of  New  Mexico,  and  deserve 
our  most  considerate  attention.  Some  idea  of  the  purity  of  the  atmos 
phere  when  the  fogs  clear  away  may  be  formed  by  referring  to  sketch 
No.  15,  view  of  Mount  Fairweather,  taken  at  sea  124  miles  from  its 
base.  Few  places  in  the  world  could  allow  of  objects  being  seen  with 
distinctness  at  such  a  great  distance.  You  will  notice  under  this  sketch 
the  names  of  General  Davis  and  other  officers  of  this  department, 
vouching  for  the  uncommon  phenomenon.  Some  travelers  assure  us 
that  they  have  seen  these  mountains  as  far  as  Ungi,  200  miles. 

No.  18  is  a  sketch  of  a  cascade  near  Tongas,  as  beautiful  a  little  gem 
of  a  waterfall  as  can  be  seen  anywhere. 

LOCATION  OF  INDIAN  VILLAGES. 

Indian  villages  are  generally  located  on  these  low  hills,  at  the  base  of 
high  mountains,  as  seen  in  sketches  16  and  17,  and  their  appearance  is 
picturesque  in  the  extreme.  Being  close  by  the  water,  all  their  jour 
neying  is  done  by  canoes,  in  the  management  as  well  as  the  construc 
tion  of  Avhich  they  are  adepts.  To  see  them  by  the  dozen  plying  with 
skill  their  short,  broad  paddles,  and  sending  their  light  and  graceful- 
looking  bidarkas  so  swiftly  through  the  water,  is  a  sight  to  remember. 

FISHERIES  OF  ALASKA. 

The  Indians  bring  halibut,  codfish,  flounders,  salmon,  clams,  smelt, 
whortleberries,  wild  currants,  venison,  bear  skins,  marten,  mink,  lynx, 
fox,  and  other  skins  for  sale.  At  Sitka  or  Wrangel  they  sell  a  halibut, 
large  size,  for  50  cents,  a  salmon,  25  cents,  or  5  for  $1 ;  deer,  $2 ;  smelts, 
a  peck  for  25  cents,  and  so  on. 

This  country  is  truly  the  fisherman's  paradise,  and  the  Indians  are 
experts  at  the  business.  The  salmon  caught  here  are  so  large  that  five  of 
them  fill  a  barrel,  and  sometimes  only  three  are  sufficient,  and  they  are  so 
plentiful  that  you  can  kick  them  with  your  foot  ashore  at  the  mouth  of 
shallow  mountain  streams,  up  which  they  are  trying  to  swim  to  deposit 
their  eggs.  The  smelt  come  ashore  in  such  quantities  that  you  can  run 
out  on  the  beach,  as  the  surf  recedes,  and  scoop  up  a  bushel  basket  full 
in  ten  minutes.  Our  second  mate  put  down  his  line  from  the  steamer 
at  Kadiak  for  half  an  hour,  and  caught  ten  large  codfish.  At  Ungi, 
on  the  codfish  banks,  near  Chemogan  Islands,  there  are  now  as  many 


556        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

as  thirty  vessels  seen  at  a  time  engaged  in  fishing  for  cod.     (See,  for  re 
port  on  fishing,  by  Carlton  and  others,  Appendix  F.) 

Educate  the  Indians  of  Alaska,  and  they  will  supply  the  United 
States  with  fish  and  furs. 

DEMORALIZING  EFFECT  OF    THE  NEAR  PROXIMITY  OF  SOLDIERS  AND 

INDIANS. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  ill  effects  of  the  near  proximity  of  soldiers  to 
the  Indian  villages,  a-nd  of  the  demoralizing  effects  upon  both.  It  is 
the  same  in  all  Indian  countries.  It  appears  to  be  worse  here  because 
more  needless.  Nowhere  else  that  1  have  visited  is  the  absolute  use- 
lessness  of  soldiers  PO  apparent  as  in  Alaska.  The  only  communication 
being  by  water — there  are  no  roads  by  land — it  follows  that  vessels  suit 
able  for  plying  up  the  inland  seas,  manned  by  a  few  revenue  officers  or 
good,  smart  sailors,  will  do  more  toward  effectually  preventing  lawless 
ness  among  the  Indians,  and  smuggling  or  illicit  trade  with  the  whites 
and  Indians,  than  five  hundred  soldiers  located  at  post.  Nearly  all  the 
United  States  officers  that  I  have  conversed  with  agree  on  the  above, 
and  recommend  a  reduction  in  the  force-  in  this  Territory.  There  are 
five  hundred  here  now,  when  two  hundred  would  be  ample  for  the  whole 
Territory. 

The  soldiers  will  have  whisky,  and  the  Indians  are  equally  fond  of 
it.  The  free  use  of  this  by  both  soldiers  and  Indians,  together  with 
the  other  debaucheries  between  them,  rapidly  demoralizes  both,  though 
the  whites,  having  the  larger  resources,  and  being  better  cared  for  by 
the  government  in  houses,  clothing,  and  food,  endure  it  the  longest. 

Wondering  how  it  was  that  so  much  liquor  found  its  way  into  the 
department,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  the  collector  of  the  port  of  Sitka, 
as  well  as  to  the  captain  of  the  revenue  cutter  Eeliance,  inquiring  what 
was  the  cause.  The  letter  with  the  two  replies  I  inclose,  marked  in 
order,  Appendix  Gr.  You  will  notice  that  both  of  these  officers  recom 
mended  the  use  of  small  steam  revenue  cutters  to  ply  up  the  bays  and 
inlets  of  the  coast.  Neither  ask  for  more  troops. 

How  much  such  vessels  are  needed,  and  how  grossly  the  law  of  Con 
gress  against  the  introduction  of  liquors  into  this  Territory  is  violated, 
may  be  seen  by  the  communications  from  Captain  Henriques,  relating 
to  liquor  landed  from  schooner  General  Harney,  marked  D,  and  the 
letter  from  Carl  Osche,  relating  to  the  doings  of  the  ship  Cesarowitz, 
marked  D. 

I  sincerely  trust  that  when  our  commission  meets  it  will  recommend 
the  sending  of  two  small  revenue  steam  tugs,  of  the  kind  spoken  of  by 
Captain  Selden  and  Collector  Kapus,  to  this  Territory,  and  also  recom 
mend  that  the  law  of  Congress  prohibiting  the  introduction  of  liquor 
into  the  Territory  be  made  more  stringent  or  be  more  strictly  enforced, 
and  the  introduction  of  liquor  be  as  completely  suppressed  in  Alaska  as 
it  finally  was  in  the  Indian  Territory.  (See  present  law,  Appendix  H.) 

INTERVIEWS  WITH    CHIEFS. 

Thinking  it  well  to  show  the  chiefs  such  respect  as  might  be  in  my 
power,  I  invited  the  chief  of  the  Tongas  and  his  wife  on  board  the  New- 
bern,  and  having  taken  him  through  the  vessel,  showing  him  the 
machinery,  &c.,  I  invited  the  couple  to  dine  with  me.  They  were  evi 
dently  much  pleased.  I  did  the  same  at  Wrangel  and  Sitka  with  the 
two  principal  chiefs  of  the  tribes,  with  this  difference,  that  on  these  occa- 


REPOKT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 


557 


sions  the  captain  and  ladies  invited  us  to  join  them  at  the  regular  table, 
instead  of  having  a  separate  table  provided  for  us  as  in  the  first  in 
stance.  The  chiefs  ate  with  their  forks  j  when  it  came  to  the  pud 
ding  they  used  their  spoons,  and  on  having  the  almonds  and  raisins 
placed  before  them  they  used  their  fingers,  the  same  as  those  around 
them.  In  all  they  behaved  with  perfect  propriety,  and  the  most  fas 
tidious  could  see  nothing  in  their  demeanor  to  find  fault  with.  I  men 
tion  these  trifles  to  show  their  wish  and  ability  to  imitate  white  men. 

I  was  much  pleased  when  I  visited  the  headquarters  of  Major  General 
Davis,  at  Sitka,  to  see  the  large  reception  hall  in  the  old  Kussian  gov 
ernor's  house,  where  the  chief  officers  of  the  Bussian  government  re 
ceived  and  entertained  the  Indian  chiefs  on  their  occasional  and  annual 
visits  to  them. 

RETURN  TO  SITKA. 

At  Sitka  we  again  met  the  United  States  steamer  Newborn,  and  re 
turned  with  her  to  San  Francisco. 

ABUSE  OF  INDIANS  AT  WRANGEL. 

On  iny  return,  trip  while  stopping  at  Wrangel,  October  29,  Leon 
Smith,  assisted  by  two  half  drunken  discharged  soldiers,  assaulted  an 
Indian  who  was  passing  in  front  of  his  store.  Mr.  Smith  said  that  he 
was  under  the  impression  (mistaken,  as  he  afterward  admitted)  that 
the  Indian  had  struck  his  little  boy,  and  he  only  shook  the  Indian. 
The  drunken  soldiers  standing  by  then,  of  their  own  accord,  (unsolicited, 
Mr.  Smith  says,  by  him,)  seized  the  Indian,  brutally  beat  him,  and 
stamped  upon  him.  I  had  been  taking  a  census  of  the  village  that 
afternoon,  and  hearing  the  shouts  of  the  party,  met  the  Iridian  with 
his  face  badly  cut  and  bleeding  coming  toward  his  home.  I  immedi 
ately  went  to  the  post  and  suggested  to  the  commandant  that  he  should 
have  the  drunken  soldiers  arrested  and  retained  for  trial.  He  sent  a 
lieutenant,  with  two  or  three  men,  "to  quell  the  disturbance,"  the 
Indians  meanwhile  having  become  excited,  and  to  "  use  his  own  discre 
tion  about  arresting  the  men."  Lieutenant returned  soon  after 

without  the  drunken  soldiers,  and  gave  as  his  reason  that  "  the  Indian 
struck  Mr.  Smith's  boy,"  which,  as  I  have  said,  was  disproven. 

The  drunken  men  belonged  to  a  party  of  over  one  hundred  dis 
charged  soldiers  who  had  come  down  on  our  steamer  from  Sitka,  and 
were  on  their  way  to  San  Francisco.  Some  of  them  had  been  drummed 
out  of  the  service  for  robbing  the  Greek  church  at  Sitka,  and  for  other 
crimes.  I  had  informed  the  commandant  of  their  character  the  morning 
after  our  vessel  arrived,  and  suggested  to  him  the  propriety  of  prevent 
ing  any  of  them  from  landing  and  going  to  the  Indian  village.  He 
replied  that  he  had  no  authority  to  prevent  any  one  from  landing.  I 
was  surprised  at  this,  as  I  supposed  Alaska  was  an  Indian  territory, 
and  that  the  military  had  supreme  control. 

The  day  after  the  assault  upon  the  Indian,  the  commandant  came  on 
board  the  Newbern  and  asked  very  kindly  my  opinion  about  t^e  pro 
priety  of  attempting  to  arrest  the  two  drunken  soldiers,  but  as  there 
were  over  one  hundred  soldiers  on  board,  and  the  affair  had  occurred  at 
near  twilight,  so  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  recognize  the  men,  the 
impracticability  of  doing  this  at  that  late  hour  was  apparent. 

The  news  of  the  bombardment  of  this  post  by  the  commandant  reached 
us  as  we  close  report.  (See  Appendix  Z,  No.  1.) 


558        EEPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 
DANGERS  OF  NAVIGATION  IN  ALASKA  WATERS. 

"You  ought  to  see  Duncan's  mission  before  you  leave  the  Pacific 
coast,"  said  many  people  to  me  on  the  journey.  It  is  at  Metlacatlah, 
twelve  or  fifteen  miles  above  Fort  Simpson,  near  the  British  bound 
ary  line,  with  Alaska.  "It  is  really  astonishing  what  he  has  done  for 
the  Indians  in  a  short  time,"  said  they.  He  has  a  large  school  for  boys 
and  girls:  a  chapel  for  religious  meetings 5  a  market-house  for  the  neigh 
boring  tribes  to  trade  in;  a  prison  for  malefactors;  a  police  made  up  of 
Indians  only,  £c.,  &c.  "  Oh,  you  must  see  it,"  said  they.  "  Well,  Cap 
tain,"  said  I  to  Captain  Freeman,  the  obliging  commander  of  the  United 
States  steamer  Newbern,  "I  suppose  it  would  not  be  possible  for  you  to 
stop  there  on  your  way  down  the  coast."  "No,  sir!"  said  he,  with  empha 
sis.  I  had  tried  to  get  a  canoe  while  at  Tongas  to  row  across  Nast  Bay, 
but  we  had  not  time  going  up,  so  I  thought  I  should  have  to  let  it  go. 

As  we  were  leaving  Wrangel  Harbor  coming  home,  the  wind  increased 
to  a  gale,  and  we  had  promise  of  what  sailors  call  a  "  dirty  night."  We 
turned  into  our  berths  with  seritms  misgivings  of  danger.  The  straits  in 
which  we  were  tossing  were  narrow,  the  vessel  high  out  of  the  water 
from  lack  of  cargo,  and  the  night  pitch  dark.  We  soon  forgot  it  all, 
however,  in  sleep  ;  when  suddenly  we  were  awakened  by  the  ship  com 
ing  to  a  full  stop,  a  tremendous  crash  against  a  rock,  which  nearly 
threw  us  out  of  our  berths.  A  brief  prayer,  a  quiet  putting  away  in 
dressing  of  all  gold,  watches,  and  other  heavy  things  that  might 
encumber  us  in  the  water,  and  we  went  on  deck.  The  storm  was  raging 
wildly — the  rain  and  sleet  swept  horizontally  past  us ;  the  roar  of  the 
breakers  could  be  heard  all  about  us,  but  we  could  see  nothing.  We 
had  two  hundred  souls  aboard,  and  not  enough  small  boats  to  carry  fifty, 
nor  would  they  have  been  of  much  use  if  we  had  more.  The  pilot  said 
the  water  was  coining  in  the  ship  rapidly,  but  that  so  far  the  pumps 
were  keeping  pace  with  it.  So  we  went  down  below,  out  of  the  way  of 
the  faithful  officers  and  men  who  managed  the  ship.  The  storm  lasted 
two  days,  and  then  the  captain  said  he  would  have  to  beach  the  vessel 
at  Fort  Simpson,  and  while  she  was  being  repaired,  I  would  have  time  to 
visit  Mr.  Duncan's  Indian  mission  at  Metlacatlah. 

MR.  DUNCAN'S  MISSION  AT  METLACATLAH. 

Through  the  kind  aid  of  Mr.  Cunningham,  the  head  man  of  the  Hud 
son's  Bay  Company  at  Fort  Simpson,  a  large  canoe  and  a  crew  of  picked 
young  men  were  secured  -to  take  me  fifteen  miles  up  the  coast  to  the 
mission.  The  morning  we  started  was  rainy  and  the  sea  rough,  but  the 
men  managed  the  canoe  so  skillfully  that  we  shipped  but  little  water. 
The  sun  soon  came  out  clear,  and  though  we  had  a  few  heavy  flurries  of 
hail  and  the  wind  was  right  in  our  teeth,  we  had  one  of  the  most  enjoy 
able  excursions  oi:  my  life. 

We  arrived  at  the  mission  at  three  o'clock,  having  started  at  eight. 
Mr.  Duncan  was  away  on  a  visit  to  another  mission  which  he  looks 
after  up  in  Nast  Bay.  We  landed  at  a  well-constructed  stone  wharf, 
built  for  canoes,  and  passing  up  this  about  one  hundred  feet  ascended  a 
flight  of  steps  and  entered  the  market-house. 

This  market-house  is  a  neat,  well-built  house,  of  about  forty  by  eighty 
feet,  dry,  clean,  and  comfortable.  A  number  of  Indians  were  in  it,  sitting 
beside  their  heaps  of  ulican  boxes,  piles  of  bear  and  deer  skins,  fish, 
&c.,  ancl  seemed  as  contented,  cheerful,  and  enterprising  as  many  white 
people  I  have  seen  in  like  places.  Ascending  from,  the  market  place  a 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       559 

flight  of  about  twenty  steps,  which  are  lengthened  out  on  either  side 
along  a  terrace  two  hundred  feet,  you  come  to  the  plateau  on  which  the 
mission  village,  is  located. 

The  two  streets  on  which  the  houses  are  built  form  two  sides  of  a 
triangle,  at  the  apex  of  which  the  church,  mission-house,  trading  store, 
market  and  "  lock-up"  are  erected. 

The  church  is  octagon  in  form,  and  looks  like  a  locomotive  depot. 
There  was  a  pebble  floor,  and  benches,  with  room  to  accommodate  five 
hundred  people  ;  small  windows  around  the  sides  and  light  above,  but 
no  stove  or  other  provision  for  heating  that  I  could  see. 

The  store  was  well  furnished  with  substantial  articles  of  daily  neces 
sity,  and  at  fair  prices.  Up  stairs  there  was  a  good  stock  of  marten, 
mink,  fox,  bear,  and  beaver  skins,  which  Mr.  Duncan  had  received  in 
exchange  for  the  goods.  The  missionary's  own  residence  is  simple  and 
commodious. 

But  the  chief  interest  is  in  the  construction  and  condition  of  the  dwell 
ings  of  the  Indians.  In  these  Mr.  Duncan  has  shown  much  practical 
good  sense.  Taking  the  common  form  of  habitation  peculiar  to  all  the 
Koloshan  tribes  along  this  coast,  he  has  improved  upon  it  by  introduc 
ing  chimneys,  windows,  and  doors  of  commodious  size,  and  floors  ele 
vated  above  the  ground.  For  furniture  he  has  introduced  chairs,  tables, 
bedsteads,  looking  glasses,  pictures,  and  window  curtains.  In  front  he 
has  fenced  off  neat  court-yards,  and  introduced  the  cultivation  of 
flowers,  while  in  the  rear  of  their  dwellings  are  vegetable  gardens.  Al 
together  the  village  presents  many  instructive  and  encouraging  features. 

Mr.  Duncan  is  invested  with  the  powers  of  a  civil  magistrate  under 
the  colonial  laws  of  Great  Britain,  and  is  thus  enabled  to  settle  disputes, 
and  nip  all  petty  misdemeanors  in  the  bud.  He  has  organized  a  police 
of  Indians  and  they  are  said  to  be  well  disciplined  and  effective.  There 
is  a  small  "lock-up"  or  caboose  built  of  logs  in  a  picturesque  form,  in 
which  the  disorderly  are  temporarily  confined. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  Mr.  Duncan  is  thus  invested  with  the  powers  of 
an  Indian  agent,  teacher,  missionary,  trader,  and  justice  of  the  peace, 
and  as  he  is  considered  an  honest  man,  and  his  books  of  record  are  open 
to  inspection,  among  a  primitive  people  as  Indians  are,  he  can  be  a  most 
efficient  officer. 

OTHER    INDIAN  MISSIONS  IN  BRITISH   COLUMBIA. 

At  Nanirno  there  is  another  most  successful  Indian  mission,  under  the 
care  of  Kev.  Mr.  White,  for  the  Wesleyan  Methodists  of  Canada. 

This  mission  has  a  day  school  and  chapel,  and  whenever  a  family  have 
shown  an  encouraging  desire  for  better  quarters  than  their  Indian  huts 
afford,  the  society  build  cottages  for  them,  and  to  avoid  pauperizing 
them,  take  a  small  annual  payment  until  they  can  gradually  be  released 
from  the  obligation.  In  some  cases  they  present  the  cottage  to  the  In 
dians  outright  for  services  performed;  in  others,  they  furnish  them  with 
the  timber  and  nails  at  reduced  prices.  There  are  now  some  eight  or 
nine  neat  cottages  built  near  the  chapel,  and  about  fifty  or  sixty  children 
and  young  people  attend  school  and  the  church  meetings.  Several  na 
tive  teachers  are  employed,  and  in  a  short  time  many  more  will  be  suffi 
ciently  educated  to  assist. 

The  only  evening  I  had  at  Nanimo  during  the  brief  stay  of  our 
steamer  to  coal,  was  very  rainy,  yet  at  the  ringing  of  the  chapel  bell  over 
forty  of  the  scholars  attended,  and  sang  and  recited  with  most  credit 
able  ability.  The  contrast  of  their  advanced  condition — neatly  dressed, 


560        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN  AFFAIRS. 

educated,  and  companionable — with  that  of  the  native  Indians  in  their 
primitive  condition,  of  half  nakedness,  black,  painted  faces,  and  squalor, 
was  encouraging.  These  opposite  conditions  are  in  close  proximity,  the 
mission  being  established  in  the  heart  of  the  village. 

Captain  Freeman  speaks  of  an  island  not  laid  down  in  the  United 
States  charts.     (See  Appendix  S.) 


To  give  you  an  idea  of  the  climate  of  Alaska,  I  inclose  you  a  copy  of 
a  meteorological  register,  given  by  Dr.  Tonner,  of  the  Indian  Hospital 
at  Sitka.  (See  Appendix  I.)  By  that  record  you  will  see  that  there 
were  but  seven  days  of  snow  in  1868,  while  there  were  one  hundred  days 
fair,  one  hundred  days  rainy,  and  the  remainder  cloudy.  The  thermo 
meter  at  no  time  was  lower  than  eleven  degrees  above  zero  in  winter, 
nor  higher  than  seventy-one,  Fahrenheit,  in  summer.  (Appendix  B,  3.) 

You  will  perceive  that  the  thermometer  varies  much  less  than  writh 
us,  and  that,  though  there  is  much  rainy  weather  there,  there  are  also 
many  clear  days.  And  Sitka,  where  this  record  was  kept,  is  the  most 
subject  to  rains  of  any  place  in  the  Territory. 

NAMES  OF  TRIBES  AND  THEIR  NUMBERS. 

Major  General  Halleck's  nomenclature  I  have  already  given.  His 
estimate  I  believe  to  be  the  nearest  correct  of  any.  In  all  cases  where 
I  counted  them  the  number  exceeded  the  published  estimates. 

I  did  not  find,  however,  that  marked  difference  between  the  Kolo- 
shians,  Aleutes,  and  Kenais,  as  to  the  "  one  being  peaceable,  the  others 
wild,  warlike,  &c.,w  which  the  general  speaks  of.  The  Aleutes,  like 
our  Cherokees,  were  fortunate  in  having  faithful  Christian  men  to  work 
for  their  christianization  and  civilization.  The  Koloshians  as  yet  have 
not  been  so  favored ;  but  of  the  two  my  observations  lead  me  to  conclude 
that  the  Koloshians  are  the  more  capable. 

To  sum  up  my  opinion  about  the  natives  of  Alaska,  I  do  not  hesitate 
to  say  that  if  three-quarters  of  them,  were  landed  in  New  York  as  coining 
from  Europe,  they  would  be  selected  as  among  the  most  intelligent  of 
the  many  worthy  emigrants  who  daily  arrive  at  that  port.  In  two  years 
they  would  be  admitted  to  citizenship,  and  in  ten  years  some  of  their 
children,  under  the  civilizing  influence  of  our  eastern  public  schools, 
would  be  found  members  of  Congress. 

RECOMMENDATIONS. 

In  conclusion,  I  would  recommend  that,  in  all  our  dealings  with  the 
Indians,  we  shall  "do  unto  them  as  we  would  them  to  do  unto  us;7' 
and  as  the  glorious  fifteenth  amendment  is  now  virtually  secured  we 
should  prepare  the  Indians  to  receive  its  beneficent  protection. 

Securing  to  them,  beyond  the  possibility  of  failure,  (other  than  the  fail 
ure  of  our  government,)  all  their  rights,  tribal  and  individual,  to  lands  or 
moneys  due  them,  wo  should  secure  agents  and  teachers  to  guide  them, 
and  provide  schools,  mechanical  tools,  agricultural  implements,  &c., 
everywhere. 

The  wild  tribes  should  not  only  be  placed  upon  reservation,  but 
amply  provided  for  and  protected  when  there. 

Either  the  civil  law  of  the  United  States  should  be  extended  over  all 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS..     561 

the  Indians,  or  a  code  of  laws  at  once  adopted  denning  crime  and  pro 
viding  a  judiciary  and  a  police  force  to  execute  it. 

Magisterial  power  should  be  given  to  the  agents  on  reservations,  and 
he  should  have  control  of  the  trading  posts  and  be  held  responsible  for 
the  business  on  his  reservation.  The  pay  of  these  agents  should  be  in 
creased  from  the  present  fifteen  hundred  dollars  to  two  thousand  dollars 
per  annum .  The  present  pay  is  not  sufficient  to  secure  such  a  class  of  men 
as  we  ought  to  have  over  the  Indian  reservations.  *As  a  rule,  they 
should  be  married  men.  With  the  employes  of  the  agency,  also,  pref 
erence  should  be  given  to  married  men. 

We  should  endeavor  to  teach  the  children  the  English  language, 
rather  than  to  develop  a  taste  for  their  native  dialect. 

Wherever  a  good  agent  has  been  removed  under  the  recent  general 
changes  I  think  he  should  be  restored ;  as,  for  example,  Eev.  Mr.  Wil 
bur,  of  the  Yakhama  reservations.  There  are  too  few  such  men  for  us 
to  be  able  to  lose  their  services. 

IN  ALASKA   TERRITORY. 

The  fur-seal  fisheries  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George  Island  are  the  key 
to  control  all  the  resources  of  northern  and  western  Alaska  and  the 
forty  thousand  Indians  thereon.  Whichever  party — the  government  or 
the  monopolists — get  control  of  those  fisheries,  with  their  assured  income 
of  half  a  million  of  dollars  yearly,  and  the  commercial  power  which  accom 
panies  it,  will  be  virtually  masters  of  both  the  trade  and  the  Indians 
for  the  next  ten  or  twenty  years.  No  such  monopoly  would  stand,  how 
ever,  that  length  of  time  in  this  country;  the  profound  feeling  against 
it  which  exists  on  the  Pacific  slope,  where  it  is  best  understood,  would 
sweep  it,  and  the  political  party  that  allowed  it,  out  of  power  in  half 
that  time.  But  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  Congress  will  not  be  betrayed  into 
introducing  any  such  system  of  virtual  serfdom  over  so  large  a  portion 
of  these  wards  of  our  government. 

One  general  superintendent  at  department  headquarters,  and  four 
local  agents,  one  at  each  of  the  points  of  Tongas,  Sitka,  Kenai,  Una- 
laska,  and  on  the  Youkon  Eiver,  should  be  appointed,  and  an  appropria 
tion  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  be  made  for  schools,  medical  at 
tendance,  and  general  industrial  development  of  the  natives.  The 
Russo-Greek  church  should  be  protected,  and  its  teachers  encouraged. 

As  all  the  traveling  is  done  by  water,  the  superintendent  and  agents 
should  be  allowed  free  passage  on  all  government  vessels  in  Alaska 
waters,  wherever  their  duty  requires  it. 

In  my  journey  of  over  ten  months7  duration  and  twenty  thousand 
thousand  miles  of  travel,  through  the  least  frequented  Territories  and 
among  the  Indian  tribes  reported  to  be  the  most  warlike,  I  have  been 
uniformly  treated  with  the  utmost  kindness  by  these  neglected,  misun 
derstood,  and  greatly  abused  people. 
Faithfully,  yours, 

YINCENT  COLYEE, 
United  States  Special  Indian  Commissioner. . 

Hon.  FELIX  E.  BRUNOT, 

Chairman  Board  of  Indian  Commissioners. 

36  I  A 


562        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

APPENDIX  A. 
[From,  Major  General  Halleck's  report  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  1869.] 

NAMES   OF   TRIBES  AND   THEIR  NUMBERS. 

Indian  population. — Most  writers  make  four  general  divisions  of  the  natives  of  Alaska : 
1st,  the  Koloshians ;  2d,  the  Kenaians ;  3d,  the  Aleutes,  4th,  the  Esquimaux.  These 
are  again  subdivided  into  numerous  tribes  and  families,  which  have  been  named  some 
times  from  their  places  of  residence  or  resort  and  sometimes  from  other  circumstances 
orlncidents. 

1.  The  Koloshians. — This  name  is  given  by  the  Russians  to  all  the  natives  who  in 
habit  the  islands  and  coast  from  the  latitude  54°  40'  to  the  mouth  of  the  Atua  or  Cop 
per  River.  The  Indians  of  the  northern  islands  and  northern  coast  of  British  Colum 
bia  belong  to  the  same  stock,  and  their  entire  population  was  estimated  by  the  early 
explorers  at  25,000.  The  Koloshians  in  Alaska,  at  the  present  time,  have  been  subdi 
vided  and  classed  as  follows : 

The  Hydas,  who  inhabit  the  southern  part  of  Alexandria  or  Prince  of  Wales  Archi 
pelago.  They  have  usually  been  hostile  to  the  whites,  and  a  few  years  ago  captured  a 
trading  vessel  and  murdered  the  crew.  They  number  about  600!  These  Indians  are 
also  called  Kaiganies  and  Kliavakans ;  the  former  being  near  Kaigan  Harbor,  and  the 
latter  near  the  Gulf  of  Kliavakan. 

In  the  same  archipelago  are  the  Hennegas,  who  live  near  Cape  Pole,  and  the  Chat- 
sinas,  who  occupy  the  northern  portion  of  the  principal  island.  They  are  said  to  be 
peaceful,  and  to  number  about  500  each,  in  all  about  1,000. 

The  Tongas,  who  live  on  Tongas  Island  and  on  the  north  side  of  Portland  Channel. 
A  branch  of  this  tribe,  called  the  Foxes,  now  under  a  separate  chief,  live  near  Cape 
Fox.  The  two  branches  together  number  about  500. 

The  Stikeens,  who  live  on  the  Stackine  River  and  the  islands  near  its  mouth.  Al 
though  represented,  as  at  the  present  time,  peaceable,  a  few  years  ago  they  captured  a 
trading  vessel  and  murdered  the  crew.  They  number  about  1,000. 

The  Kakus,  or  Kakes,  who  live  on  Kuprinoff  Island,  having  their  principal  settle 
ment  near  the  northwestern  side.  These  Indians  have  long  been  hostile  to  the  whites, 
making  distant  warlike  incursions  in  their  canoes.  They  have  several  times  visited 
Puget  Sound,  and,  in  1857,  murdered  the  collector  of  customs  at  Port  Townsend.  They 
number  altogether  about  1,200. 

The  Kous,  who  have  several  villages  on  the  bays  and  inlets  of  Kou  Island,  between 
Cape  Division  and  Prince  Frederick's  Sound.  They  are  represented  as  generally  un 
friendly  to  our  people.  They  are  dangerous  only  to  small  unarmed  trades.  They  num 
ber,  in  all,  about  800. 

The  Koutznous  or  Koushnous,  who  live  near  Kootznere  Head,  at  the  mouth  of  Hood's 
Bay,  Admiralty  Island.  They  number  about  800. 

The  Awks,  who  live  along  Douglas's  Channel  and  near  the  mouth  of  Tako  River. 
They  have  a  bad  reputation,  and  number  about  800. 

The  Sundowns  and  Takos,  who  live  on  the  mainland  from  Port  Houghton  to  the 
Tako  River.  They  number  about  500. 

The  Chilcates  or  Chilkahts,  living  on  Lynn  Channel  and  the  Chilkaht  River.  They 
are  warlike,  and  have  heretofore  been  hostile  to  all  whites,  but  at  present  manifest  a 
disposition  to  be  friendly.  They  muster  about  2,000. 

The  Hoodsua-hoos,  who  live  near  the  head  of  Chatham  Straits.  There  are  also 
.small  settlements  of  them  near  Port  Frederick,  and  at  some  other  points.  They  num 
ber  about  1,000. 

The  Hunnas  or  Hooneaks,  who  are  scattered  along  the  mainland  from  Lynn  Canal  to 
Cape  Spencer.  Their  number  is  about  1,000. 

The  Sitkas,  or  Indians  on  Baronoff  Island,  who  were  at  first  opposed  to  the  change 
of  flags,  but  have  since  become  friendly.  These  are  estimated  by  General  Davis  at 
about  1,200. 

If  we  add  to  these  the  scattering  families  and  tribes  on  the  islands  not  above  enu 
merated,  and  the  Hyacks,  who  live  south  of  Copper  River,  we  shall  have  from  12,000 
to  15,000  as  the  whole  number  of  Koloshians  in  the  Territory. 

2.  2he  Kenaians. — This  name,  derived  from  the  peninsula  of  Kenai,  which  lies  be 
tween  Cook's  Inlet  and  Prince  William's  Sound,  has  been  applied  to  all  the  Indians 
who  occupy  the  country  north  of  Copper  River  and  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  ex 
cept  the  Aleutes  and  Esquimaux.  The  employe's  of  the  telegraph  company  repre 
sent  them  as  peaceful  and  well  disposed.  They,  however,  are  ready  to  avenge  any  af 
front  or  wrong.  I  have  not  sufficient  data  to  give  the  names,  locations,  or  numbers  of 
the  several  tribes  of  these  people.  Their  whole  number  is  usually  estimated  at  25,000. 

3.  The  Aleutes. — This  term  more  properly  belongs  to  the  natives  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  but  it  has  been  applied  also  to  those  of  the  Schoumagin  and  Kadiak  groups, 
and  to  the  southern  Esquimaux,  whom  they  greatly  resemble.  They  are  generally 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       563 

kind  and  well  disposed,  and  not  entirely  wanting  in  industry.  By  the  introduction  of 
schools  and  churches  among  these  people  the  Russians  have  done  much  toward  reduc 
ing  them  to  a  state  of  civilization.  As  might  he  expected  from  the  indefinite  charac 
ter  of  the  lines  separating  them  from  the  Esquimaux,  the  estimates  of  their  numbers 
are  conflicting,  varying  from  4,000  to  10,000.  Probably  the  lowest  numher  Avould  com 
prise  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  proper,  while  if  we  include  the  other 
groups  and  the  peninsula  of  Alaska,  and  the  country  bordering  on  Bristol  Bay,  the 
whole  number  may  reach  as  high  as  10,000. 

4.  Tlie  Esquimaux. — These  people,  who  constitute  the  remainder  of  the  population 
of  Alaska,  inhabit  the  coasts  of  Behring's  Sea  and  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  the  inte 
rior  country  north,  and  including  the  northern  branches  of  Youkon  River.  The  Keua- 
ians  are  said  to  hold  the  country  along  the  more  southerly  branches  of  that  river.  The 
character  of  the  Alaskian  Esquimaux  does  not  essentially  differ  from  that  of  the  same 
race  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  They  are  low  in  the  scale  of  humanity,  and  number 
about  20,000.  These  estimates  make  the  entire  Indian  population  of  Alaska  about 
60,000. 


Report  of  Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel  Robert  N.  Scott,  United  States  Army. 

INDIANS  LIVING  ON  AND  NEAR  THE   BOUNDARY  BETWEEN  BRITISH   COLUMBIA   AND  THE 
RUSSIAN-AMERICAN  TERRITORY  RECENTLY  CEDED  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Chimpsa'ms. — Living  on  Chimpsain  Peninsula.  Their  principal  village  is  at  Fort 
Simpson,  where  a  Hudson  Bay  post  (the  largest  on  the  coast)  has  been  located  for  some 
30  years.  There  are  about  900  Indians  at  this  point,  living  in  large,  strongly-built 
lodges  ;  about  600  of  this  tribe  are  at  Metlakahtla,  a  missionary  and  trading  village 
about  15  miles  to  the  southward  of  Fort  Simpson,  on  Chatham  Sound.  Fort  Simpson  is 
a  large  stockade  fort,  armed  with  eight  four-pounder  iron  guns,  but  there  are  now  but 
three  or  four  whites  at  that  station. 

Naas  River  Indians. — Naas  River  empties  into  Portland  Channel  at  about  55°  north 
latitude,  and  about  30  miles  to  the  northward  and  eastward  of  Fort  Simpson. 

Mr.  Cunningham  (the  Naas  &River  trader  for  Hudson's  Bay  Company)  was  at  Fort 
Simpson  while  I  was  there,  and  kindly  furnished  such  information  as  I  possess  in 
reference  to  tribes  on  that  and  Skeena  River.  He  estimates  the  total  number  of  Naas 
Indians  at  2,000. 

The  Kakes,  Foxes,  Hydahs,  Tongas,  and  Stikeens  trade  on  the  Naas  for  Oulicoon  oil 
and  other  articles.  The  Naas  Indians  go  into  Portland  Channel  near  its  head  to  catch 
salmon,  which  are  said  to  be  very  abundant. 

There  is  a  tribe  of  about  200  souls  now  living  on  a  westerly  branch  of  the  Naas  near 
Stikeen  River;  they  are  called  "Lackweips,"  and  formerly  lived  on  Portland  Channel ; 
they  moved  away  in  consequence  of  an  unsuccessful  war  with  the  Naas,  and  now  trade 
exclusively  with  the  Stikeens.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  is  making  strong  efforts 
to  reconcile  this  feud,  in  order  to  recover  their  trade.* 

Skeena  River  Indians.— Skeena  River  empties  into  Port  Essington,  about  35  miles  below 
Portland  Channel;  its  source  is  not  far  from  the  head- waters  of  the  Naas.  The  total 
number  of  Indians  on  the  river  and  its  tributaries  is  reliably  estimated  at  2,400, 
namely : 

Kitsalas 400 

Kitswingahs 300 

Kitsiguchs ". '.'."." ".'.'.'.' '.\  300 

Kitspayuchs 400 

Hagulgets .  500 

Kitsagas ."."."."."."." ." ." ." ."  '. '.  * ."  500 

Kitswinscolds 400 

The  last  named  tribe  lives  between  the  Naas  and  the  Skeena.  They  are  represented 
as  a  very  superior  race,  industrious,  sober,  cleanly,  and  peaceable. 

Kitatels. — Living  on  the  islands  inOgden's  Channel,  about  60  miles  below  Fort  Simp 
son.  They  number  about  300  persons,  and  are  not  considered  very  trustworthy. 
These  people  trade  at  Metlakahtla. 

Hydalis.—This  name  is  given  to  the  Indians  on  the  northern  shores  of  Queen  Charlotte's 
Islands  and  to  all  of  our  Indians  on  Prince  of  Wales  Islands,  except  the  Hermegas 
and  Chatsinahs. 

The  British  Indians  living  along  the  shore  from  Virago  Sound  to  North  Point  and 
Cape  Knox  number  300.  Those  at  Masset's  Harbor  are  also  estimated  at  300. 

The  American  Hydahs  are  called  Ky-ganuies  or  Kliavakans.     They  number  about 

*I  embrace  iinder  this  heading  all  Indians  who  are  within  easy  access  to  Portland  Channel,  coming  there 
to  trade,  &c.,  or  within  an  area  of  60  miles  north  and  south  of  that  inlet. 


564       REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

600  souls,  and  are  scattered  along  the  shore  from  Cordova  to  Tonvel's  Bay.  Quite  a 
number  of  the  men  from  these  tribes  are  employed  about  Victoria  and  in  the  saw-mills 
on  Puget  Sound.  A  few  years  ago  some  British  Hydahs  captured  the  schooner  Blue 
Wing  off  Seattle,  Washington  Territory,  and  murdered  all  the  crew  and  passengers- 
some  five  or  six  persons. 

Tongas. — Not  many  years  ago  this  was  a  warlike  and  numerous  tribe,  and  now  num 
bers  not  more  than  200  souls.  They  hunt,  fish,  and  trade  among  the  islands  and  on  the 
northern  shores  of  Portland  Channel.  Their  principal  village  is  on  Tongas  Island,  to 
which  reference  is  made  elsewhere. 

There  is  no  Indian  bureau,  with  attendent  complications. 

There  is  no  pretended  recognition  of  the  Indian's  "  title"  in  fee  simple  to  the  lands 
over  which  he  roams  for  fish  or  game.  Intoxicating  liquors  were  not  introduced  among 
these  people  so  long  as  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  possessed  the  monopoly  of  trade. 

Prompt  punishment  follows  the  perpetration  of  crime,  and  from  time  to  time  the 
presence  of  a  gunboat  serves  to  remind  the  savages  along  the  coast  of  the  power  of 
their  masters.  Not  more  than  two  years  ago  the  Fort  Rupert  Indians  were  severely 
punished  for  refusing  to  deliver  certain  criminals  demanded  by  the  civil  magistrate. 
Their  village  was  bombarded  and  completely  destroyed  by  her  Britannic  Majesty's  gun 
boat  Clio. 

As  the  result  of  such  a  policy  we  find  trading  posts,  well  stocked  with  everything 
tempting  to  savage  cupidity,  safely  conducted  by  one  or  two  whites  among  distant  and 
powerful  tribes.  There  is  not  a  regular  soldier  in  all  British  Columbia,  (excepting 
marines  on  shipboard  and  at  Esquimault,)  and  yet  white  men  travel  through  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  province  in  almost  absolute  security.  Yet  the  total  number 
of  Indians  in  the  colony  is  estimated  at  40,000,  and  there  are  not  more  than  8,000 
whites. 

Dr.  Tolmie  informed  me  that  Captain  Howard,  of  our  revenue  service,  had  stated  in 
•Victoria  that  no  one  would  be  allowed  to  sell  arms  or  ammunition  to  the  Indians  in  our 
Territory.  This  policy,  provided  it  could  be  carried  out,  would  simply  deprive  these 
people  of  the  means  of  gaining  a  livelihood. 

They  must  have  guns,  not  only  to  get  food,  but  to  secure  the  furs,»skins,  &c.,  of  the 
northwest  trade.  But  these  Indians  will  get  arms  and  ammunition.  If  our  own  traders 
are  prohibited  from  furnishing  them,  they  can  and  will  get  them  from  British  Columbia, 
and  in  this  event  they  would  naturally  look  upon  the  British  as  their  best  friends.  The 
consequences  of  such  a  state  of  feeling,  as  affecting  our  trade  and  intercourse  with 
them,  may  readily  be  imagined.  Inasmuch  as  most  of  our  trading  intercourse  .with 
Alaska  will  be  by  small  vessels  running  through  what  is  called  the  "  inside  passage" 
along  the  coast  of  British  Columbia,  I  deemed  it  advisable  to  collect  such  information 
as  could  be  obtained  in  reference  to  Indians  living  011  and  near  that  route. 

For  convenient  reference  I  submit  herewith  a  copy  of  the  letter  of  instructions 
received  from  Major  General  Halleck.     (Inclosure  A.) 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ROBERT  N.  SCOTT, 
Brevet  Lieut.  Colonel  and  A.  D.  C. 

Brevet  Major  General  JAMES  B.  FRY, 

Adjutant  General  Military  District  of  the  Pacific. 


APPENDIX  B. 

Report  from  Harry  G.  Williams. 

THE   STACHINE   INDIANS. 

FORT  WRANGLE,  ALASKA  TERRITORY,  October  30, 1869. 

DEAR  SIR  :  Immediately  after  leaving  you  on  board  the  steamer  Newbern,  I  was 
Bnugly  stored  away  as  a  guest  of  the  post  surgeon,  in  his  quarters.  H.  M.  Kirke,  acting 
assistant  surgeon  United  States  Army,  gave  me  a  very  interesting  account  of  the  nature, 
customs,  means  of  livelihood,  occupation,  and  also  of  the  diseases  and  manner  of  their 
treatment  among  the  Stachine  Indians. 

Of  their  nature  he  says,  they  are  very  docile  and  friendly,  ingenious,  and  labor 
well  and  faithfully,  but  by  being  brought  into  contact  with  unprincipled  white  men, 
are  soon  found  to  adopt  and  imitate  their  manners  and  ways. 

In  their  customs  they  still  maintain  the  most  of  those  originally  observed  by  their 
nation.  However,  many  of  them  take  great  pride  in  imitating  civilized  ways  of  dress, 
which  in  their  opinion  renders  them  equally  as  good  as  a  white  man.  Their  means  of 
livelihood  is  chiefly  by  salmon  fishing,  which  they  catch  in  immense  numbers  and  pre 
pare  for  winter  use  by  drying  and  smoking,  after  which  they  are  stored  away  care- 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OP    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       565 

fully.  Many  of  them  use  flour,  but  prefer  hard  bread  and  crackers  when  they  are  able 
to  obtain  them.  They  are  very  fond  of  coffee,  sugar,  and  molasses,  and  like  all  other 
Indians  easily  become  fond  of  ardent  spirits,  to  obtain  which  they  will  sometimes  sac 
rifice  nearly  everything  in  their  possession.  In  this  manner  they  are  imposed  upon  by 
those  who  know  110  principle  or  law,  who  have  been  known  to  sell  them  essence  of 
peppermint,  Stoughton's  bitters,  and  absinthe,  charging  them  four  dollars  a  bottle, 
(holding  one  pint.)  Absinthe  is  a  compound  which,  if  used  as  a  constant  beverage, 
soon  unseats  the  mind,  produces  insanity,  and  sometimes  death.  Dr.  Kirke  tells  me 
that  he  can  find  none  among  them  who  are  entirely  free  from  the  indications  of  some 
form  of  disease.  A  large  number  of  them  are  more  or  less  inoculated  with  the  different 
forms  of  venereal  diseases,  which,  had  they  proper  protection,  could  be  avoided.  But  I 
regret  to  say  that  men  cannot  be  blamed  for  following  examples  set  by  their  superiors, 
the  consequence  of  which  is,  the  Indian  women  become  mere  concubines,  at  the  will  of 
those  whose  duty  it  is  to  try  and  elevate  and  not  degrade  them.  These  women  are 
never  known  to  seek  any  such  degrading  intercourse,  but  permit  it  merely  for  the  pecu 
niary  gain  it  affords  them.  Justice,  honor,  and  manhood  point  the  finger  of  scorn,  and 
cry  shame  to  such.  Men  with  virtuous,  noble  wives  and  children,  even  to  stoop  to 
such  acts !  Thank  a  kind  heavenly  Master,  there  will  be  a  time  when  such  men  can  be 
seen  in  their  true  character,  and  be  made  to  feel  the  power  of  an  avenging  hand.  I  am' 
fully  convinced  that  by  kind  and  careful  teaching,  this  great  evil  could  be  remedied 
and  the  Indian  race  again  restored  to  its  former  virtue  and  honor,  and  gradually  be 
come  an  intelligent,  industrious,  and  educated  people. 

THE   STACHINE   RIVER. 

After  remaining  at  Wrangel  one  week  I  procured  an  Indian  guide,  purchased  a  canoe 
and  sufficient  provisions  to  last  three  months,  and  Monday  at  half  past  one  p.  m.,  Sep 
tember  13,  started  on  a  tour  of  inspection  up  the  Stachine  River,  the  mouth  of  which 
is  about  ten  miles  north  from  Wrangel  Island.  We  reached  main  land  about  four 
p.  m.,  and  after  luncheon  again  resumed  our  journey,  overtaking  a  number  of  Indians 
during  the  afternoon. 

These  Indians  were  from  Wrangel,  and  on  their  way  to  the  interior,  where  they  go 
every  fall  to  trade  for  the  furs  of  more  distant  tribes.  A  systematic  form  of  exchange 
is  carried  on  from  one  tribe  to  another  until  it  reaches  the  Coast  tribes,  thus  bringing 
many  valuable  furs  many  hundred  miles  from  the  interior  of  a  vast  and  unexplored 
country. 

As  we  advanced,  day  after  day  the  general  appearance  of  the  country  gradually  as 
sumes  a  better  appearance.  The  scenery  along  the  river  is  far  beyond  my  power  of 
description.  Immense  mountains,  whose  snow-crowned  heads  pierce  the  dome  of  heaven 
in  solemn  and  majestic  grandeur,  rise  in  every  direction. 

COAL,   IRON,   AND   COPPER. 

In  many  places  on  these  mountains  could  be  seen  huge  masses  of  coal,  looking  as  though 
a  little  push  would  set  them  tumbling  down  its  side.  Iron  and  copper  abound  in  many 
places,  and  gold  can  be  found  in  every  direction,  very  thinly  scattered.  As  yet  no  dis 
coveries  have  been  made  that  would  warrant  a  speedy  acquirement  of  wealth  by  mining, 
but  the  indications  are  very  good  that  at  no  distant  day  very  rich  mines  will  be  found. 
A  strong  party  of  prospectors  left  Victoria  in  May  last,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the 
entire  interior  westward,  and  are  daily  expected  to  make  their  appearance  somewhere 
along  the  coast.  Many  are  ready  and  waiting  to  embrace  any  new  discoveries  they  may 
have  made  in  their  long  journey.  As  we  advanced  to  the  interior  we  found  a  greater 
change  in  the  condition  of  the  Indians.  They  being  removed  from  the  coast,  had  no  idea 
of  wrong  or  evil  actions.  They  are  far  more  honest  than  the  same  number  of  white  men 
would  be  under  the  same  circumstances.  You  can  form  an  idea  of  this  from  the  fol 
lowing,  which  I  learned  from  an  eye-witness :  In  1862  a  large  immigration  of  miners  to 
this  coast  was  caused  by  the  discoveries  of  gold  about  two  hundred  miles  up  the  Stikine 
River,  at  a  bar  named  after  the  discoverer,  (Mr.  Chockett,  nicknamed  Buck,)  hence 
the  name  "Buck's  Bar,"  which  was  worked  but  one  or  two  years,  (owing  to  the  diffi 
culty  of  getting  provisions,)  and  then,  nearly  all  of  them  returning,  many  left  their 
entire  kits  of  tools  and  working  utensils  and'goods  of  every  variety  ;  some  hung  them 
up  on  trees,  others  stowed  them  away  in  caves  and  niches  in  the  rocks  and  abandoned 
them.  The  Indians  are  continually  passing  them,  and  have  been  known  to  replace 
them  when  their  fastenings  would  give  way  and  let  them  fall  to  the  ground,  thereby 
showing  not  even  the  existence  of  a  wrong  thought  in  the  minds  of  these  red  men. 
The  only  thing  they  have  ever  been  known  to  appropriate  was  a  few  potatoes  and 
about  five  pounds  of  flour  belonging  to  one  of  tjie  miners  there,  and  this  they  were  almost 
forced  to  take  from  inability  to  procure  sufficient  food  to  sustain  life.  This  in 
stance  can  be  multiplied  by  many  more  of  the  same  nature  were  it  necessary.  Fifty 
miles  up  the  river  is  an  abandoned  house,  once  used  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
for  trading  with  the  Indians. 


566       EEPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN  AFFAIRS. 

THE  GLACIER  OF  THE  STYCHINE. 

Opposite  this  place  is  an  immense  glacier,  about  four  miles  long  and  an  unknown 
width,  extending  westward  between  two  large  mountains,  until  it  is  no  longer  discernible. 
It  varies  in  depth  from  one  to  five  or  six  hundred  feet,  commencing  near  the  water  and 
extending  along  its  course.  The  top  is  furrowed  and  cut  by  the  rain  into  every  variety 
of  shape,  only  needing  a  small  addition  to  form  correct  images  of  houses,  towers,  giants, 
caverns,  and  many  other  forms.  Viewed  from  the  east  side  of  the  river,  when  the  sun 
is  shining  full  upon  it,  it  presents  a  most  beautiful  appearance,  its  innumerable  points 
glistening  like  burnished  silver,  and  its  caverns  becoming  more  dark  by  comparison. 
Toward  sunset  the  effect  of  the  day's  sun  causes  it  to  crack,  which  makes  a  deep  rumbling 
noise  that  can  be  heard  for  ten  or  fifteen  and  sometimes  twenty  miles.  Immediately 
opposite  its  center,  across  the  river,  is  a  boiling  spring,  bubbling  up  in  eight  or  ten 
places,  whose  water  is  so  hot  that  it  will  crisp  a  person's  boots  in  a  very  short  time,  as 
many  incautious  persons  can  testify.  It  seems  as  if  nature  must  have  been  on  a  frolic 
during  her  stay  here,  and  becoming  chilled  from  the  glacier,  came  across  the  river  and 
found  this  warm  stream  in  which  to  sport. 

Along  the  river  are  four  other  smaller  glaciers,  but,  compared  with  this  one,  they  be 
come  mere  snow-balls.  Seventy-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  located  the 
trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  charge  of  their  agent,  Mr.  Chockett, 
known  throughout  the  country  as  "  Buck ; "  he  is  esteemed  very  highly  by  the  Indians, 
from  the  fact  that  his  dealings  have  been  uniform,  and  his  promises  always  faithfully 
redeemed,  thus  gaining  a  firm  place  in  their  estimation.  At  the  time  of  my  visit  he 
showed  me  over  eight  hundred  marten,  one  thousand  beaver,  and  a  large  number  of 
many  other  kind  of  furs  ;  this  being  about  the  middle  of  the  trading  season  with  him. 
He  has  been  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  from  there  up  the  river  into  the  inte 
rior  prospecting  for  gold.  Sixty  miles  from  there  you  reach  an  immense  canon,  ninety 
miles  long,  extending  through  the  Coast  or  Chigmet  mountains.  The  current  in  this 
place  runs  so  rapidly  that  you  can  form  no  idea  of  its  speed.  It  reminds  you  of  a  huge 
gun,  as  you  see  fragments  of  trees  and  logs  fly  along  in  its  angry  foaming  waters.  In 
some  places  the  rocky  sides  gradually  incline  inward,  until  at  a  distance  of  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  above  the  water  they  come  so  close  that  a  good  jump  will  take  you  across 
the  yawning  chasm  below.  In  the  spring,  when  the  ice  breaks  up  in  the  river,  the 
water  rises  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  in  this  canon,  and  you  may  imagine  its  appearance 
then. 

After  crossing  the  mountains,  you  reach  a  beautiful  prairie,  well  watered  and  plenty 
of  fine  timber.  Here  are  found  deer,  bear,  antelope,  mountain  sheep,  beaver,  and  nearly 
every  variety  of  game,  excepting  the  buffalo.  The  gold  continues  about  the  same,  and 
is  found  to  a  small  extent  in  river  bars.  No  quartz  existing  precludes  the  idea  of  any 
large  deposits  in  this  vicinity. 

The  change  in  the  climate  is  more  striking  than  that  of  the  country.  It  is  clear, 
bright,  and  invigorating,  with  but  very  little  rain.  The  atmosphere  is  so  pure  that  you 
can  see  much  further  and  more  distinctly  than  in  any  other  climate.  The  nights  are 
almost  as  bright  as  the  day ;  so  bright  that  you  can  easily  read  coarse  print.  The  In 
dians  in  this  vicinity  have  almost  an  Eden  to  live  in — game  and  fish  in  endless  num 
ber  seem  to  be  only  waiting  their  will.  These  tribes  make  annual  journeys  overland 
southward,  and  meet  those  coming  from  the  coast,  thus  finding  a  ready  market  for  their 
furs,  for  which  they  obtain  ammunition,  guns,  axes,  buttons,  cloth,  and  tobacco  ;  also 
many  other  small  notions.  But  very  little  liquor  ever  reaches  them,  and  thus  they  es 
cape  the  great  source  of  degradation  and  corruption  which  soon  sweeps  away  nations, 
power,  and  happiness.  I  do  not  wish  my  readers  to  think  that  I  am  a  rigid  temperance 
man,  for  I  am  not.  I  regard  liquor  the  same  as  any  other  article  of  drink  or  food ;  that 
is,  if  it  is  properly  used,  it  will  not  injure  any  one  ;  but  abused,  it  becomes  a  scourge 
and  lashes  hardest  those  who  embrace  it  most,  degrading  them  even  below  the  brute 
creation.  Its  effect  on  the  Indian  is  much  different  and  more  dangerous  than  on  the 
white  man.  When  an  Indian  becomes  intoxicated,  he  becomes  wild,  reckless,  and 
cruel,  not  even  hesitating  to  kill  any  one  who  may  meet  his  displeasure.  They 
will  continue  drinking  as  long  as  they  can  procure  liquor,  thus  showing  how  rapid 
would  be  their  course  toward  a  fearful  end. 

At  the  time  of  my  leaving  Philadelphia,  my  opinion  was  like  the  masses  who  had 
never  seen  or  inspected  the  Indian  in  his  own  native  power  and  country ;  i.  e.  "  that  he 
was  incapable  of  ever  being  civilized  or  becoming  of  any  importance  whatever."  Since 
my  journey  and  inspection  of  the  different  tribes  whom  I  met,  and  observing  the  change 
produced  in  them  by  association  alone,  every  item  of  doubt  regarding  it  is  turned  to  a 
certainty,  that  they  can,  under  honest,  faithful  instruction,  be  advanced  far  beyond  our 
imagination. 

After  running  up  the  Stikiue,  I  then  entered  one  of  its  tributaries,  about  one  hun 
dred  and  fifty  miles  up,  called  the  Clear  Water  River.  It  was  named  by  a  party  of 
miners,  from  the  fact  of  its  water  being  much  more  clear  than  the  Stikine.  The  Clear 
Water  runs  southeast.  It  is  a  very  rapid  stream  indeed,  and  in  many  places  very  shal- 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN  AFFAIRS.       567 

low.  It  can  be  navigated  with  difficulty  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in  canoes,  where 
rapids  occur  so  frequently  that  no  one  cares  to  risk  life  and  property  Ly  braving  them. 
Hero  the  climate  is  very  fine  and  healthy,  inhabited  by  the  "  Stick  "  or  Tree  Indians. 
These  Indians  partake  of  the  same  descriptions  and  traits  as  those  along  the  Stikine. 
We  left  our  canoe  moored  in  a  small  side  stream  in  full  view  of  a  trail  in  constant 
use  bv  this  tribe,  and  during  a  week  which  I  spent  in  traveling  from  there  in  every 
direction,  '  '  "*  -----  ,-  ---  T^- *i ^~  -4 


canoe  „  v  _ 

pass  it,  but  no.  indication  of  their  approaching.  I  prospected  in  many  places  for  gold, 
and  found  but  very  little  difference  between  the  deposits  here  and  elsewhere,  with  one 
exception.  About  ten  miles  from  camp,  and  five  miles  up  a  large  creek  (coming  in  from 
the  northeast)  called  Boulder  Creek,  deriving  its  name  from  the  amount  of  large  bould 
ers  found  along  its  course,  is  a  fall  of  about  five  or  six  feet,  at  the  foot  of  which  are 
some  small  deposits  of  coarse  gold  buried  among  huge  boulders  of  many  tons'  weight. 
It  is  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to  warrant  an  investment  in  mining  tools,  &c.,  neces 
sary  to  overcome  these  obstacles  and  remunerate  any  one  for  time  and  trouble. 

Becoming  fully  convinced  that  there  was  nothing  in  this  section  sufficient  to  recom 
pense  me  for  the  sacrifice  of  home  and  its  surroundings,  I  determined  on  returning  to 
them  as  soon  as  possible.  Accordingly,  October  21,  all  things  being  in  readiness,  at 
day-break  I  bid  farewell  to  our  old  camp  and  its  pleasant  surroundings,  headed  the 
canoe  down  stream,  and  began  a  journey  of  nearly  five  thousand  miles  homeward  bound. 
In  the  first  day's  travel  we  run  about  eighty  miles,  encountering  many  dangerous 
places,  but  coming  through  them  all  safely.  Many  times,  in  spite  of  our  united  efforts,  the 
current  would  sweep  us  against  its  rocky  boundary,  and  almost  smash  our  canoe.  Again 
in  trying  to  avoid  huge  trees  (left  in  the  river  at  high  water)  we  would  be  forced  to  head 
our  boat  directly  for  them,  and  with  a  silent  prayer  wait  the  result.  The  canoe  being 
gradually  rounded  from  its  bottom  up  to  a  long  sharp  bow,  and  driven  ten  or  twelve 
miles  an  hour  by  the  strong  current,  would  strike  the  tree  and  seem  to  leap  out  of  the 
water  over  it,  as  if  it  was  running  from  some  fearful  danger. 

The  next  day's  run  we  reached  the  Great  Glacier,  and  camped  in  the  old  house,  re 
maining  there  one  day  to  overhaul  our  goods  and  feast  our  eyes  on  the  beaiitiful 
scenery.  After  tramping  over  a  large  mountain  and  shooting  some  grouse  and  squirrels 
I  returned  to  camp,  and  next  morning  determined  to  reach  Wraugel  again.  It  was  a 
long  and  hard  pull  of  sixty  miles,  the  river  having  become  much  wider  and  the  current 
ran  from  four  to  six  miles  an  hour.  We  reached  there  about  9  p.  m.  tired  and  hungry, 
and  were  welcomed  back  and  well  entertained.  Our  friends  were  about  sending  a  canoe 
up  after  us,  fearing  that  we  would  not  survive  the  dangers  of  the  return  trip.  We  were 
disappointed  at  not  finding  any  letters  from  home  there  for  us.  Thursday  night  we 
were  awakened  by  the  signal  gun  of  the  Newbern,  and  our  hearts  gave  a  great  bound 
of  joy  at  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  return  to  the  dear  ones  far  away.  If  in  this  simple, 
unpretending  letter  you  find  anything  instructive  or  interesting  I  shall  be  amply  re 
paid  for  this  attempt  at  a  description  which,  in  good  hands,  would  fill  a  large  volume, 
every  item  being  of  interest.  As  it  is  I  must  endeavor  to  double  the  "  one  talent " 
given,  that  it  may  be  well  with  me.  For  the  kind  Christian  advice  given  me  by  you  on 
our  way  up  from  San  Francisco  I  thank  you  most  earnestly,  for  through  it  I  have  been 
greatly  benefited.  Although  I  may  never  repay  you,  your  reward  awaits  you  in 
heaven.  May  God's  blessing  ever  rest  on  you  and  your  efforts  is  the  wish  of 
Your  devoted  friend, 

HARRY  G.  WILLIAMS, 

Philadelphia,  Pa. 

VINCENT  COLYER, 

Special  United  States  Indian  Commissioner. 


APPENDIX  B  3. 
Letter  from  Leon  Smith. 

WRANGEL  ISLAND,  A.  T.,  October  30,  1869. 

DEAR  SIR  :  In  answer  to  your  questions  of  yesterday,  permit  me  to  say  the  number  of 
Indians  at  this  point  is  estimated  to  be  about  500. 

Since  my  arrival  here,  the  1st  of  March,  1869,  I  have  found  them  to  be  quiet,  and 
seem  well  disposed  toward  the  whites. 

They  live  on  fish  (smoked  salmon)  and  game,  and  they  provide  themselves  with 
clothing  from  the  furs  they  gather,  either  by  trade  or  trapping. 

Twice  a  year  most  of  the  Indians  make  a  trip  up  the  Stikine  River  to  Talyan,  at 
which  place  the  Stick  tribe  reside,  and  trade  with  them  for  interior  marten,  mink, 
beaver,  bear,  wolverine,  lynx,  laud  otter,  and  some  other  skins.  They  take  up  salmon, 


568        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

fish-oil,  blankets,  domestics,  red  cloth,  beads,  molasses,  flour,  and  ill  fact  every  other 
article  suitable  for  Indian  trade.  They  give  about  ten  yards  of  print  for  one  prime 
marten ;  three  and  a  half  pounds  of  salmon,  three  gallons  of  molasses,  for  the  same,  and 
for  other  skins  in  proportion. 

The  Stick  tribe  are  a  very  honest  tribe,  and  partial  to  the  whites.  I  Avill  now  start 
from  this  point  and  go  with  you  to  Talyan,  on  the  North  Fork.  We  leave  here  and  go 
about  seven  miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  Stikiiie  with,  say,  five  Indians  in  my  canoe. 
The  current  is  rapid  at  all  seasons.  We  reach  the  glacier,  thirty-five  miles  from  the 
mouth,  in  two  days  ;  from  there  we  proceed  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post,  two 
miles  above  the  boundary  line  between  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  Alaska,  a  distance 
of  thirty  miles,  in  two  days — four  days  from  the  mouth.  From  here  We  find  the  cur 
rent  very  rapid,  and  we  tow  our  canoe  along  the  two  banks ;  we  send  three  of  our  men 
on  shore  to  tow,  and  keep  one  in  the  bow  and  stern.  We  tug  along  about  ten  miles  a 
day  until  we  reach  Shakesville,  named  after  the  chief  of  the  Stikine  tribe,  with 
whom  you  are  acquainted.  We  reach  Shakesville  in  about  five  days,  about  fifty  miles 
from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  being  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  the 
mouth.  From  here  we  tug  along  twelve  miles  to  Buck's  Bar,  at  which  point,  or  in  its 
vicinity,  some  eleven  miners  are  at  work  on  surface  digging.  They  average  about  three 
dollars  a  day,  and  generally  come  to  the  mouth  to  winter.  The  men  do  some  trading  in 
furs.  They  here  find  silver,  copper,  coal,  and  iron,  but,  with  the  exception  of  coal,  not  in 
large  quantities.  The  coal  near  the  North  Fork  is  of  good  qaiality,  the  vein  being- 
some  thirty  feet.  We  noAV  leave  Buck's  Bar,  bound  to  Talyan,  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles.  We  work  hard  for  three  days,  and  at  last  make  fast  to  the  banks  at  Talyau. 
We  are  received  kindly  by  the  chief,  Nornuck,  and  by  all  the  tribe.  The  tribe  remain 
away  from  home,  and  at  their  hunting  grounds,  about  six  months  out  of  the  year. 
They  do  their  trading  with  the  Stikines  ;  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  sends  goods  up, 
and*  in  fact  do  most  all  the  trading.  ******** 

I  spoke  to  you  of  Mr.  Charles  Brown's  farm  and  waterfall.  He  tells  me  that  he  has 
raised  about  fifteen  tons  of  potatoes,  two  tons  of  cabbage,  four  tons  of  turnips,  and  a 
large  quantity  of  beets,  lettuce,  peas,  carrots,  &c.  He  has  a  turnip  weighing  six 
pounds.  Potatoes  average  well ;  some  came  aboard  yesterday. 

The  lake  is  about  one  mile  wide,  and  two  and  one-half  long  ;  the  fall  is  about  forty 
feet,  with  water  enough  to  run  forty  saw-mills.  Mr.  Brown  has  been  living  at  that 
point  about  two  years ;  it  is  about  ten  miles  from  here. 

Out  of  six  pounds  of  seed  Mr.  Brown  tells  me  he  raised  four  hundred  and  fifteen 
pounds  of  potatoes. 

Mr.  Hoglan,  a  miner  at  Buck's  Bar  for  two  years,  tells  me  that  the  altitude  of  the 
country  will  not  permit  them  to  raise  vegetables ;  the  country  is  broken,  mountainous, 
and  swampy. 

Of  the  other  tribes  of  the  Territory  I  know  nothing. 

Hoping  you  will  excuse  this  hurriedly  penned  memorandum,  I  am,  sir,  very  re 
spectfully  your  obedient  servant, 

LE.ON  SMITH. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

Special  Indian  Commissioner. 


APPENDIX  B  3. 
Letter  from  W.  Wall. 

FORT  WRANGEL,  A.  T.,  November  8,  1869, 

DEAR  SIR  :  The  Stikine  Indians  live  at  present  on  a  small  bay,  near  the  northern 
extremity  of  Wrangel  Island,  and  within  about  seven  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Stikine.  They  number  altogether  about  three  hundred,  and  are  divided  into  nine 
tribes,  each  tribe  having  a  chief,  and  all  subject  to  one  chief. 

The  present  chief  is  Shakes ;  he  does  not  possess  by  any  means  the  authority  and 
influence  which  his  predecessor  did  ;  the  principal  reason  is  he  is  very  poor,  and  an 
other  is  he  reports  to  the  commanding  officer  all  the  misdeeds  of  the  village.  He  is 
well  disposed,  and  his  only  fault  is  his  fondness  for  whisky,  which  is  the  cause  of  his 
poverty. 

The  majority  of  these  Indians  are  very  industrious,  and  are  always  anxious  to  get 
employment,  but,  like  all  the  Indians  on  the  coast,  are  passionately  fond  of  whisky. 
Such  is  their  desire  for  it  that  they  will  dispose  of  their  most  valuable  furs  at  a  most 
extraordinary  sacrifice  to  obtain  it.  However,  since  the  country  came  into  the  posses 
sion  of  the  United  States  they  have  not  as  many  opportunities  as  formerly  of  gratifying 
their  passion. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact,  that  the  sale  of  whisky  to  Indians  on  this  coast,  (and  to  the 
interior  Indians  through  these  on  the  coast,)  has  reduced  their  numbers,  caused  petty 


REPORT    OF   THE   COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       569 

feuds,  idleness,  theft,  and  predisposes  them  to  disease  and  mortality,  reducing  them  to 
the  level  of  the  lowest  brute.  They  are  artful  and  cunning,  and  to  gain  a  point  will 
tell  lies  in  a  most  bare-faced  manner ;  at  the  same  time  they  look  upon  a  respectable 
white  man  as  incapable  of  telling  an  untruth ;  and  if  a  white  man  once  deceives  them 
by  telling  an  untruth,  or  otherwise,  they  look  upon  him  as  below  caste,  and  will  avoid 
as  much  as  possible  all  future  dealings  with  him. 

It  is  also  a  well  known  fact  that  immorality  among  the  Indian  tribes  is  not  so  gen 
eral  as  when  they  associate  with  the  white  population.  Both  male  and  female  seem  to 
suffer  alike  by  the  association,  and  the  natural  consequence  is  quite  evident — disease 
and  a  remarkable  decrease  in  population. 

The  principal  sustenance  of  these  Indians  is  fish,  berries,  fish  oil,  seal  oil,  venison 
and  mountain  sheep.  Potatoes  and  turnips  they  are  very  fond  of,  and  buy  them  in 
considerable  quantities  from  the  Hydahs,  who  live  further  up,  and  seem  to  understand 
their  cultivation. 

The  soil  and  climate  here  are  well  suited  for  the  growth  of  potatoes,  turnips,  cab 
bage,  carrots,  parsnips,  beets,  &c.;  but  both  from  the  want  of  knowledge  and  of  imple 
ments,  the  Indians  never  make  an  earnest  attempt ;  they  simply  cultivate  a  few  pota 
toes  in  a  most  indifferent  manner. 

The  fur-bearing  animals  on  the  coast  are  numerous,  and  good  of  their  kind,  viz., 
bears,  mink,  and  hair  seal ;  and  it  is  strange  how  these  Indians  neglect,  in  a  great 
measure,  this  very  important  source  of  wealth.  I  can  account  for  it  in  this  way  :  their 
appliances  for  procuring  the  means  of  subsistence  are  so  indifferent,  and  their  total 
neglect  of  raising  any  vegetables  leaves  them  in  that  condition  that  they  really  have 
neither  the  time  or  the  independence  to  go  out  for  a  two  or  three  months'  trapping 
expedition.  However,  there  are  some  exceptions  which  go  to  prove  the  statement 
which  I  make.  I  know  one  Indian  who  last  winter  killed  twelve  large  and  eight  small 
bears,  about  thirty  minks,  and  a  number  of  hair  seals ;  he  had  besides  a  small  patch  of 
potatoes ;  this  Indian  had  only  his  wife  to  assist  him.  In  conclusion,  I  have  no  hesi 
tation  in  stating,  (after  nearly  three  years'  experience  in  their  means  and  ways,)  that 
these  Indians,  if  properly  instructed,  and  advantage  taken  of  the  resources  of  the 
country,  they  might  not  only  become  comfortable,  but  by  the  sale  of  furs  and  their 
other  produce  become  comparatively  wealthy. 

I  have  much  pleasure  in  offering  you  these  hurried  remarks,  hoping  you  might  find 
them  useful  in  assisting  you  in  the  good  work  you  have  undertaken. 
I  am,  sir.  yours,  most  respectfully, 

W.  WALL. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

United  States  Special  Indian  Commissioner. 


APPENDIX  B  4. 

Mr.  William  H.  Dalla's  general  description  of  Southeastern  Alaska  is  so  full  of  valu 
able  information  that  I  append  it  to  Mr.  William  H.  Smith's  and  Mr.  Wall's  account  of 
this  district : 

*  THE   6lTKAN  DISTRICT. 

"This  district  extends  from  the  southern  boundary  to  the  peninsula  of  Alaska,  in 
cluding  the  island  of  Kadiak. 

"The  surface  of  this  portion  of  the  Territory  is  rugged  and  mountainous  in  the  ex 
treme,  the  northern  part  only  affording  any  appreciable  amount  of  level  and  arable 
lauds  suitable  for  cultivation.  Small  patches  occur  here  and  there  where  small  farms 
might  be  located,  but,  as  a  rule,  the  mountains  descend  precipitously  into  the  sea,  with 
their  flanks  covered  with  dense  and  almost  impenetrable  forests.  These  rise  to  the 
level  of  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Here  and  there  a  bare  streak  shows 
where  an  avalanche  has  cut  its  way  from  the  mountain  top  to  the  waterside ;  and  oc 
casionally  the  shining  front  of  a  glacier  occupies  some  deep  ravine,  contrasting  curiously 
with  the  dense  foliage  on  either  side. 

"The  canals  and  channels  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago  form  the  highways  of  the 
country,  and  so  intricate  and  tortuous  are  they,  that  they  afford  access  to  almost  every 
part  of  it  without  setting  foot  on  shore. 

"  Soil.— The  soil  is  principally  decayed  vegetable  mold,  with  substrata  of  gravel  or 
dark-colored  clay. 

"The  soil  of  Kadiak  and  Cook's  Inlet  is  of  a  similar  character,  but  from  an  admixture 
of  volcanic  sand  thrown  up  by  the  waves,  and  abundant  sandstone  strata,  it  is  lighter, 
drier,  and  better  adapted  for  cultivation. 

"  Climate. — The  climate  of  the  southern  portion  of  this  district  is  intolerably  rainy. 
The  annual  rain-fall  at  Sitka  varies  from  sixty  to  ninety-five  inches,  and  the  annual 


570        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 


number  of  more  or  less  rainy  days  varies  from  one  hundred  and  ninety  to  two  hundred 
and  eighty-five.  In  Unalaska  the  annual  number  of  rainy  days  is  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty,  and  the  annual  fall  of  rain  (and  melted  snow)  is  about  forty-four  inches. 
This  last  estimate  is  probably  not  too  low  for  the  island  of  Kadiak  and  the  eastern  part 
of  Cook's  Inlet.  The  annual  means  of  the  temperature  about  Sitka  are  by  no  means 
low,  in  spite  of  the  rainy  summers.  The  following  table  will  indicate  the  means  for  the 
severe  seasons  during  the  year  ending  October  31,  1868,  from  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey  observations : 

"SITKA  METEOROLOGICAL  ABSTRACT. 


Season. 

Mean 
Temp. 

Rain 
fall. 

Fair 
days. 

Cloudy 
days. 

Rainy 
days. 

Snowy 
days.' 

Sprin  f 

Fahr. 
42.6 

Inches. 
14.64 

22 

70 

33 

15 

Summer   

55.7 

10.14 

21 

71 

36 

0 

45.9 

28.70 

19 

72 

44 

5 

Winter 

31  9 

14  50 

44 

47 

21 

6 

Year             

44.07 

68.07 

106 

260 

134 

26 

Minimum  temperature  11°,  maximum  temperature  71°,  for  the  year. 

"It  will  be  noted  that  the  average  temperature  of  the  winter  is  hardly  below  the 
freezing  point,  the  greatest  degree  of  cold  being  eleven  above  zero.  The  average  of 
many  years  observation  places  the  mean  winter  temperature  about  +33°  Fahr.,  which 
is  about  that  of  Manheim,  on  the  Rhine,  and  warmer  than  Munich,  Vienna,  or  Berlin ; 
and  about  the  same  as  that  of  Washington,  (one  thousand  and  ninety-five  miles  further 
south,)  and  warmer  than  New  York,  Philadelphia,  or  Baltimore.  The  cloudiness  and 
rain  of  the  summer  season,  however,  prevents  it  from  being  nearly  as  warm  as  at  any 
of  the  places  above  mentioned.  Very  little  ice  is  made  at  Sitka;  the  harbor  is  always 
open,  and  the  island  is  noted  for  the  abundance  of  a  small  species  of  humming  bird. 

"Inhabitants. — These  are  principally  Indians  in  the  Alexander  Archipelago.  Treated 
with  firmness  and  decision  they  are  harmless ;  but  if  vacillation  or  weakness  mark  the 
dealings  of  Americans,  as  they  did  the  policy  of  the  Russian  American  Company,  mas 
sacres  and  other  exhibitions  of  Indian  virtue  and  courage  will  be  the  inevitable  result. 
North  of  the  archipelago  on  the  shores  of  Prince  William  Sound,  and  the  north  shore  of 
Cook's  Inlet,  and  on  the  whole  of  Alaska  Peninsula  and  the  islands  south  of  it,  the  in 
habitants  are  of  the  Esquimaux  stock,  intelligent,  ingenious  and  docile. 

"Natural  productions. — In  the  southern  part  of  this  district,  from  an  agricultural  point 
of  view,  there  is  little  beside  the  timber.  Near  Fort  Simpson,  Dr.  Kellogg  describes 
timothy,  white  clover,  and  inedick,  or  burr  clover,  as  flourishing  with  great  luxuriance. 
Dr.  Rothrock  says  the  same  of  the  native  grasses  in  the  interior.  But  south  of  Prince 
William  Sound  there  is  so  little  low  land,  or  prairie,  that  there  is  no  good  opportunity  for 
raising  fodder,  and  the  climate  would  render  its  preservation  extremely  precarious.  The 
character  of  the  country  is  so  rugged  that  it  would  .hardly  be  advisable  to  keep  many 
cattle;  and  grain-raising,  on  account  of  the  moisture,  is  not  to  be  thought  of.  At  Sitka 
some  vegetables  do  very  well.  Turnips,  beans,  peas,  carrots,  beets,  lettuce,  and  rad 
ishes  succeed  well.  Potatoes  are  small  and  watery  from  want  of  sun  and  excess  of  mois 
ture.  Cabbages  are  luxuriant,  but  will  not  head.  Cereals  fail.  The  milk  and  cream 
from  a  few  cows  are  very  good.  Pork  has  a  disagreeable  flavor  from  being  fed  on  fish 
entrails,  &c. 

"  To  the  northern  portion  of  this  district  the  above  remarks  do  not  apply.  Kadiak 
and  Cook's  Inlet,  northeast  of  Fort  Alexander,  have  comparatively  colder  winters  and 
drier  and  warmer  summers  than  the  islands  and  coast  to  the  west  or  south  of  them. 
Haying  can  be  successfully  carried  on,  the  native  grasses  being  valuable  for  fodder, 
green  or  dry,  while  the  cultivated  grasses  succeed  very  well.  Barley  and  oats  have 
been  successfully  raised  near  the  settlement  of  St.  Nicholas,  on  Cook's  Inlet.  There  is 
no  want  of  wood ;  while  it  does  not  encroach  on  the  lowland,  which  is  clear  of  trees 
and  underbrush.  Dr.  Kellogg  says  of  Kadiak,  '  Various  herbs  and  grasses  clothe  the 
mountains  to  their  summits.  The  summer  climate  here,  unlike  Sitka,  is  sufficiently 
fair  for  haying.  We  saw  many  mown  valleys  from  which  a  good  supply  of  hay  from 
the  native  grasses  had  been  secured.  The  cattle  were  fat,  the  milk  abundant.  The 
butter  was  yellow  and  appeared  remarkably  rich,  though  of  a  disagreeable  flavor, 
which  might  be  owing  to  the  manner  of  making.'  The  potatoes  are  better  than  at 
Sitka,  but  do  not  attain  a  very  large  size.  It  has  been  mentioned  that  the  cattle  dis 
tributed  to  the  natives  by  the  Russian  American  Company  did  very  well  in  Cook's 
Inlet. 

"  Timber. — The  agricultural  staple  of  the  southern  Sitkan  district  is  timber.    I  name 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       571 

the  forest  trees  iu  the  order  of  their  value.  The  yellow  cedar  (C.  Nuikcensis,  Spach.)  is 
the  most  valuable  wood  on  the  Pacific  coast.  It  combines  a  fine,  close  texture  with 
considerable  hardness,  extreme  durability,  and  pleasant  fragrance.  For  boat-building 
it  is  unsurpassed,  in  addition  to  its  lightness,  toughness,  ease  of  workmanship  and 
great  durability. 

"  After  ascending  some  distance  the  mountain  sides  of  the  island  of  Sitka,  the  wood, 
which  appears  in  increased  denseness  before  us,  consists  particularly  of  a  noble  Thuja, 
(T.  excelm,  C.  NutJccensis.)  This  is  the  timber  most  valued  here.  It  occurs  frequently 
further  down,  but  the  more  predominant  spruce  trees  conceal  it  from  view  ;  but  here  it 
constitutes  almost  the  entire  timber.  From  its  agreeable  perfume,  it  is  known  to  the 
Russians  as  chishnik,  or  scented  wood.  This  is  the  wood  formerly  exported  to  China, 
and  returned  to  us  as  "camphor  wood,"  &c.,  famous  for  excluding  moths.  In  repairing 
old  Fort  Simpson,  a  stick  of  this  wood,  among  the  pine  timbers  used  for  underpinning, 
was  found  to  be  the  only  sound  log  after  twenty-one  years'  trial.  A  wreck  on  the 
beach  at  Sitka,  originally  constructed  of  this  timber,  was  found  thirty-two  years  after 
as  sound  as  the  day  it  was  built ;  even  the  iron  bolts  were  not  corroded. 

"Sitka  spruce,  or  white  pine,  (Abies  Sitkensis.)  This  tree,  well  known  in  the  lumber 
trade  of  the  coast,  attains  a  large  size,  and  is  noteworthy  from  its  invariably  straight 
and  slowly  tapering  trunk.  The  wood  is  not  so  durable  as  the  last  species,  but  is 


pine."  It  is  much  larger  in  its  growth  than  the  next  species, 
sider  it  a  variety  of  the  balsam.  Balsam  fir,  (Abies  Canadensis,  Mich.)  The  wood  of 
this  species  is  almost  valueless,  but  the  bark,  as  well  as  the  bark  of  the  last  named,  is 
used  in  tanning.  Scrub  pine,  (Pinus  contorta,  Dougl.)  This  species  seldom  grows  more 
than  forty  feet  clear  trunk  and  eighteen  inches  in  diameter.  It  passes  as  far  north  as 
the  junction  of  the  Lewis  and  the  Pelly  rivers  in  the  interior,  but  no  further. 

"  Other  trees,  such  as  the  little  juniper,  wild  pear,  and  the  like,  may  be  of  some  use, 
but  from  their  small  size  or  scarcity  are  of  little  economical  value. 

"In  Kacliak  Dr.  Kellogg  found  the  growth  of  timber  (Abies  fiitkensis)  confined  to  the 
eastern  valleys  and  slopes  of  the  island.  The  largest  seen  were  three  feet  in  diameter, 
and  ninety  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  In  the  governor's  yard  were  masts  and  spars 
over  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  scarcely  tapering  two  inches  in  thirty  or  forty  feet. 
These  were  from  Kadiak ;  but  many  are  brought  in  rafts  from  Spruce  Island,  ten  or 
fifteen  miles  off. 

"  The  wooded  district  comprises  the  whole  Alexander  Archipelago,  and  the  mainland 
north  to  Lituya  Bay ;  from  this  point  to  Prince  William  Sound  little  is  known  of  the 
character  of  the  timber ;  but  in  the  latter  locality  fine  timber  abounds,  and  also  in  the 
interior. 

"  GENERAL  SUMMARY. 

"While  in  the  Youkon  territory  we  cannot  look  for  self-supporting  agricultural 
districts,  nor  reasonably  expect  any  one  to  obtain  a  sustenance  by  farming  alone ;  still 
the  settler  called  there  to  develop  the  resources  of  the  country,  be  they  lumber,  fish  or 
furs,  may  have  milk  in  his  tea,  and  many  vegetables  on  his  table,  if  he  possess  the 
energy  and  knowledge  to  make  the  most  of  his  opportunities.  It  will  not  be  necessary 
for  him  to  rely  011  the  products  of  the  chase  alone,  if  he  will  but  take  the  necessary 
care  to  provide  shelter  for  his  cattle,  and  to  cut  the  perennial  grasses  which  cover  the 
prairies  and  lowlands  for  their  fodder  during  the  winter. 

"  In  the  Aleutian  district  is  situated  the  larger  proportion  of  arable  lands,  and  in 
this  and  the  northern  part  of  the  Sitkan  district  the  climatic  conditions  are  the  most 
favorable  in  the  Territory.  Their  resemblance  to  the  conditions  which  prevail  in  North 
western  Scotland  and  its  islands  has  been  already  demonstrated  at  length ;  and  the 
capability  of  this  district  for  agriculture  may  therefore  be  reasonably  inferred.  Oats 
and  barley,  possibly  wheat  and  rye,  may  succeed  on  these  islands.  Their  abundant 
capacity  for  producing  root  crops  of  good  quality,  except  possibly  potatoes,  may  be 
considered  as  settled.  That  cattle  will  do  well  there  is  no  doubt ;  and  the  Pacific  coast 
may  yet  derive  its  best  butter  and  cheese  from  the  Aleutian  and  Northern  Sitkan  dis 
trict.  Sheep,  goats,  and  swine  have  not  been  thoroughly  tried  as  yet,  but  the  infer 
ence  is  that  they  also  would  succeed. 

"  Most  of  the  berries  found  in  the  Youkon  territory  are  common  to  the  Aleutian 
district,  and  the  climate,  except  from  its  moisture,  presents  no  obstacles  to  the  success 
of  some  kinds  of  fruit  trees.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  some  one  will  try  the  experiment. 
These  islands,  with  the  country  around  Cook's  Inlet,  are  unquestionably  the  best  agri 
cultural  region  in  our  new  possessions. 

"  The  resources  of  the  southern  Sitkan  district  lie  apparently  entirely  in  its  timber. 
This  is  unquestionably  needed  on  the  Pacific  slope,  and  is  a  most  valuable  acquisition. 
No  better  lumbering  district  could  be  imagined  with  water  transportation  everywhere, 
and  mountain  sides  so  steep  that  a  slide,  easily  made  of  comparatively  worthless 
timber,  will  conduct  the  more  valuable  logs  directly  to  the  water-side. 


572        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

"  Some  vegetables  will  be  raised  in  the  future  as  in  the  past,  and  some  stock  will  be 
kept  in  this  part  of  Alaska,  but  expectations  should  be  moderate.  To  the  northern 
part  of  this  district  the  remarks  on  the  Aleutian  district  will  apply. 

"  Many  reports  may  be  found  in  circulation,  even  in  official  documents,  in  regard  to 
Alaska,  which  have  very  little  foundation.  It  is  believed  that  in  this  report  nothing 
is  asserted  which  is  not  susceptible  of  easy  proof.  It  may  be  said  that  Massachusetts 
has  never  exported  any  native  productions  except  granite  and  ice.  Alaska,  on  the 
contrary,  if  we  dismiss  the  fabulous  stories  of  fossil  ivory,  and  gold  and  silver,  may  be 
able  in  course  of  time  to  give  not  only  ice,  marble,  coal,  and  ship  timber,  but  butter 
and  cheese,  mutton  and  beef.  Perhaps  more  palatable  fruit  may  take  the  place  of  the 
cranberries  which  have  already  found  their  way  to  San  Francisco  markets. 


APPENDIX  C. 
Report  from  F.  K.  Louthan  on  the  Indian  tribes  of  Alaska. 

ALASKA,  October  28,  1869. 

DEAR  Sm  :  A  residence  of  nearly  two  years  at  Sitka,  intimately  associated  with  the 
trade  of  the  country,  and  in  daily  communication  with  the  Indians,  has  afforded  me 
some  advantages  for  observing  the  habits  and  wants,  manners  and  customs,  of  these 
people. 

I  need  only  refer  you  to  the  Sitkas,  whose  history  and  character  afford  an  example 
that  pertains,  in  a  peculiar  degree,  to  all  of  the  tribes  on  our  coast,  from  Fort  Tongas, 
near  our  southern  boundary  line,  to  Copper  River,  away  to  the  northward  .and  west 
ward,  about  six  hundred  miles. 

The  village  of  the  Sitkas  consists  of  fifty-six  houses,  well  built  and  comfortable,  ad 
joining  the  town  of  Sitka,  or  "  New  Archangel,"  being  separated  only  by  the  palisade,  a 
rude  defensive  line  of  upright  logs,  placed  by  the  old  Russian  American  Company. 
The  village  contains  a  population  of  about  twelve  hundred  souls  all  told.  They  have 
been,  and  are  now,  governed  by  one  great  chief,  aided  by  sub-chiefs,  all  of  whom  are 
elected  by  the  tribe.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  give  the  number  of  the  latter,  their 
position  being  neither  arbitrary  nor  perpetual,  as  is  that  of  the  great  chief  or  u  tye." 
They  live  by  fishing  and  hunting,  each  in  their  proper  season,  the  men  devoting  a 
large  portion  of  their  time  trading  with  the  interior  Indians  for  furs,  giving  in  ex 
change  their  dried  salmon  and  halibut,  cotton  goods,  printed  and  plain,  blankets,  guns, 
powder,  balls,  &c. 

They  are  industrious  and  ingenious,  being  able  to  imitate  admirably  almost  anything 
placed  before  them.  Of  their  industry,  I  need  only  to  refer  to  the  fact  that  for  the  quar 
termaster  and  myself,  in  a  few  days'  notice,  they  supplied,  under  great  disadvantages, 
both  of  weather  and  means,  one  thousand  cords  of  wood,  Russian  measure,  of  216  cubic 
feet  each.  This  large  amount  of  wood  was  cut  from  one  to  four  miles  away  from  our 
town,  and  delivered  and  corded  by  them  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  would  have  been 
done  by  the  same  white  labor  under  similar  disadvantages. 

Our  Indians  are  shrewd  traders,  readily  understanding  prices  and  values,  easily  un 
derstanding  both  our  coins  of  different  denominations,  and  our  "  greenbacks."  They 
are  tractable  and  kind  when  kindly  treated,  but  vindictive  and  exacting  full  compen 
sation  for  wrongs  inflicted, -come  from  what  quarter  they  may.  All  difficulties,  even 
that  of  killing  one  of  their  number,  is  measured  by  an  estimated  value,  "  so  many 
blankets,"  or  the  equivalent  in  money,  or  what  they  may  elect.  The  failure  to 
promptly  pay  for  a  real  or  supposed  injury  is  at  once  the  signal  for  retaliation.  I  can 
but  look  with  great  favor  upon  the  system  on  the  part  of  the  government,  of  adapting 
itself  to  the  one  idea,  immediate  settlement  with  their  people  for  all  wrongs  of  magni 
tude,  (whether  on  the  part  of  the  military  or  the  individual,)  entirely  upon  estimated 
value.  This  is  the  time-honored  custom  of  the  red  man  in  Alaska,  and  pertains  to  all 
alike,  wherever  dispersed  throughout  the  vast  Territory. 

At  present  it  is  more  than  folly  to  attempt  to  induct  him  into  any  other  way  of 
looking  at  a  wrong  or  injury.  Authority,  with  definite  instructions  to  our  rulers, 
whether  civil  or  military,  to  in  this  way  settle  all  disputes,  especially  when  life  has 
been  taken,  will  always  keep  him  (the  Indian)  peaceable  and  friendly,  and  in  the  end 
save  to  the  government  many  notable  lives  and  a  large  expenditure  of  treasure. 

I  am  led  to  these  reflections  by  observing  that  in  this  way  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
and  the  Russian  American  Fur  Company  have,  for  nearly 'a  century,  lived  in  compara 
tive  security  among  the  Pacific  coast  Indians,  failing  in  but  few  instances,  a  confidence 
betrayed,  property  taken,  or  life  endangered. 

Again,  my  own  personal  experience  is  a  powerful  example  of  the  system  of  such  a 
course.  Last  New  Year's  eve  a  difficulty  occurred  at  the  market-house  in  Sitka, 
between  a  Chilkaht  chief  and  a  soldier,  a  sentinel,  which  resulted  in  the  imprisonment 


EEPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       573 

in  the  guard-house  of  the  chief,  and  through  some  unaccountable  manner  the  death 
by  shooting,  in  a  day  or  two  afterwards,  of  three  Indians.  Fora  full  account  of  these 
early  difficulties  I  refer  you  to  a  report  of  General  J.  C.  Davis,  made  about  that  time. 

Among  the  Indians  killed  was  one  Chilkaht,  one  Kate,  and  one  Sitka.  The  Kates  very 
promptly  sought  the  usual  remedy,  but,  failing  to  satisfy  -themselves,  adopted  their 
extreme  remedy,  "  an  eye  for  an  eye,  a  tooth  for  a  tooth ;"  meeting  two  white  men 
near  their  village,  promptly  dispatched  them,  thereby  lost  all  of  their  village^burned 
by  order  of  the  general  commanding  ;  hence  the  so-called  "  Ka1&  war." 

"For  nearly  five  months  no  coast  or  interior  Indians  appeared  among  us,  to  the  great 
detriment  of  trade,  the  Chilkahts  especially  keeping  themselves  aloof  from  us  all  winter. 
Well  knowing  the  chief  and  most  of  his  people,  I  determined  to  pay  them  a«yisit  for 
purpose  of  trade  and  to  restore  friendly  relations.  *^*»^a  small  schoonerreached 
their  village  in  May  last,  aid  found  them  sullen  and  listless,  and  effected  but  little  in 
any  shape  for  several  days.  At  the  end  of  the  fourth  day  our  little  vessel  was  suddenly 
boarded  by  about  seventy-five  well-armed  men,  bent  on  satisfaction  either  in 
property  or  life,  for  the  man  killed  at  Sitka  nearly  five  mouths  previous.  The  exi 
gencies  of  my  situation  required  prompt  and  immediate  action.  Asking,  from  our 
closed  cabin,  an  audience,  it  being  granted,  I  stepped  out  among  them  with  my  inter 
preter,  an  Indian,  and  whilst  protesting  against  their  wish  that  I  should  pay  for  what 
had  been  done  by  our  military  chief  at  Sitka,  satisfied  them  by  giving  them  a  letter  to 
the  general  commanding,  asking  him,  for  the  sake  of  trade  and  security  to  life,  to  pay 
for  the  man  killed,  giving  my  promise  to  the  Indians  to  pay  for  the  dead  man  if  the 
general  refused. 

The  general  refused  to  listen  to  the  delegation  waiting  on  him  with  my  letter.  I  re 
turned  with  my  vessel  again  to  Sitka  and  to  Chilkaht,  when  I  promptly  paid  the 
price  asked — thirteen  blankets  and  one  coat,  amounting  in  value,  all  told,  to  about 
fifty  dollars,  coin.  I  feel  quite  sure  that  in  this  simple  settlement  I  arrested  serious 
trouble  to  myself  and  probably  to  the  government. 

I  made  afterward  a  similar  settlement  with  the  Chilkahts  in  Sitka,  for  one  of  their 
men  killed  by  a  young  man  in  my  employ.  I  can  safely  say  that  dealt  with  in  this 
•way,  there  need  never  be  any  serious  complication  of  Indian  affairs  in  this  Territory. 
Many  irregularities  and  immoralities  exist  among  our  Coast  Indians.  Like  their 
brothers  of  the  plains,  they  are  great  lovers  of  whisky,  and  will  barter  their  all  to 
get  it.  They  should  be  prohibited  its  use,  but  how  to  effect  this  is  a  problem  I  am 
unable  to  solve,  unless  the  importation  is  entirely  prohibited.  That  our  Indians  are 
susceptible  of  a  high  standard  of  cultivation  there  can  be  no  possible  doubt.  This  can 
only  t>e  done  by  the  aid  of  industrial  and  educational  schools.  The  missionary  is 
working  to  good  advantage  at  Vancouver  among  the  Hydahs,  and  at  Fort  Simpson 
among  the  Chemseans.  In  these  two  tribes  can  be  found  men  and  women  of  high 
culture  and  refinement,  fit  to  "  grace  almost  any  position  in  life." 

The  Kajojshen,  our  own  Indians  from  Tongas  to  the  Copper  River,  are  quite  as  intelli 
gent  and  easy  of  culture,  needing  only  the  same  liberal  system  of  education  to,  in  a 
very  short  time,  fully  utilize  them  for  every  purpose  of  government  and  usefulness. 

The  inhospitality  of  the  country,  differing  as  it  does  so  widely  from  the  usual  fields 
of  civilized  men,  must  for  a  long  time  make  the  Indians  the  nucleus  of  population  of 
Alaska ;  and  if  so,  how  very  essential  that  he  be  at  once  advanced  through  education 
and  example  to  his  high  destiny. 

While  the  manners  and  customs  are  the  same  of  the  whole  Koloshen  race,  there  is 
a  marked  difference  in  the  wealth  and  condition rof  those  tribes  living  on  the  mainland 
coast  over  that  of  the  islander.  Position,  custom,  and  numbers  have  given  to  the  former 
the  entire  control  of  the  valuable  trade  with  the  interior,  in  .pome  five  of  the  great 
mainland  tribes,  each  warlike  and  powerful,  and  equally  jealous  of  any  encroach 
ments  on  their  peculiar  privileges.  djP 

Beginning  north  we  have  the  Copper  River  Indians,  variously  estimated  from  three 
to  four  thousand  strong  j  but  little  is  known  of  this  people.  They  are,  however,  known 
to  be  very  rich  in  furs. 

The  early  Russians  told  fabulous  stories  of  the  existence  of  both  gold  and  copper  on 
this  river,  which  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  the  Indians  are  at  times  seen  to  use  these 
metals  in  their  ornaments. 

Next  in  order,  south,  are  the  Klahinks,  about  one  thousand  strong.  They  live  in  the 
great  basin  or  park  known  as  Behring  Bay,  between  Mount  St.  Elias  and  Mount  Fair- 
weather,  and  have  a  splendid  communication  with  the  interior  by  means  of  two  long, 
fine  rivers  emptying  into  the  bay.  These  Indians  are  gentle,  hospitable  and  kind,  but 
are  poor,  having  been  neglected  by  the  traders  for  the  last  three  years.  They  are  in 
quick  communication  with  a  splendid  fur-bearing  country,  and  only  require  a  market 
to  develop  splendid  resources. 

Next  in  order  are  the  Hoonid,  or  Gross  Sound  Indians,  two  thousand  strong.  They 
live  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  sound  for  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  and  are  the  oil  mer 
chants  of  the  coast,  taking  enormously  large  quantities  of  seal,  dog-fish,  and  ulican 


574       REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

oil,  •which  they  barter  to  their  brethren  along  the  coast.    These  oils  are  used  largely  by 
our  Indians  as  an  article  of  food ;  it  is  used  by  them  as  we  use  butter. 

At  the  head  of  the  Chatham  Straits,  almost  due  north  from  Sitka  two  hundred  and 
twenty  miles,  are  the  Chilkahts,  at  least  ten  thousand  strong.  They  are  a  brave  and  war 
like  people,  "  more  sinned  against  than  sinning."  I  have  had  much  to  do  with  them,  and 
ever  found  them  honest,  faithful  and  kind.  Their  villages  extend  from  the  mouth  to  a 
distance  of  seventy-five  miles  up  the  Chilkaht  River.  Coal  and  iron  abound  in  inex- 


the  mountain  passes  of 
every  hand  can  be  seen  quartz  cropping  boldly  out  from  a  width  of  from  one  to  twenty 
feet.  Nothing  is  known  of  its  character  or  value.  These  Indians  are  among  the  richest, 
if  not  the  wealthiest,  of  our  Coast  Indians.  Large  quantities  of  the  most  valuable  furs 

annually  gathered  and  sold  by  them.  They  are  in  every  way  independent. 
,  _  wenty  miles  north  of  Sitka,  and  east  of  Admiralty  Island  seventy-five  miles,  are  the 
Takoos,  living  at  the  head  of  Takoo  Inlet,  on  the  Takoo  River.  These  Indians  claim  to 
be  richer  in  furs  than  any  of  the  tribes  around  them.  About  the  same  quantity  can  be 
got  here  as  on  the  Chilkaht.  Some  idea  may  be  gathered  of  the  large  trade  at  one 
time  done  with  them  when  I  state  but  a  short  time  ago  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
made  their  trade  lease  from  the  Russian-American  Company's  furs  taken  in  a  single  trip 
of  their  steamer  over  five  thousand  marten  skins,  and  other  valuable  skins  in  proportion. 

The  Takoos  number  about  the  same  as  the  Chilkahts,  and  are  a  proud  and  haughty 
race.  Gold  is  well  known  to  exist  anywhere  along  this  river,  but  the  Indians  have 
steadily  refused  to  permit  any  development.  Coal  is  also  found  here  in  large  quanti 
ties  ;  indeed  it  is  found  throughout  the  coast  and  islands  of  our  inland  waters.  Of 
salmon  it  would  be  invidious  to  particularize  ;  they  are  found  in  endless  numbers  any 
where  in  our  fresh-water  streams.  The  largest  and  best  are  found  in  the  Takoo,  Chil 
kaht,  Behring's  Bay  and  Copper  Rivqr,  reaching  an  enormous  size,  many  of  them  weigh 
ing  seventy  pounds. 

Give  Alaska  a  market  and  she  will  soon  develop  a  second  New  England. 

The  conformation  of  our  mountain  ranges  are  not  unlike  those  of  Washington,  Ore 
gon,  and  California.  They  form  our  coast  and  are  iron-clad — a  greater  portion  of  them 
iron.  A  distance  of  twenty  or  thirty  miles  will  pass  one  through  this  range,  where  is 
found  an  almost  level  plateau  well  covered  with  timber.  This  plateau  extends  inland 
for  a  distance  of  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  when  another  chain 
of  mountains  is  reached,  answering  to  what  is  known  as  the  Cascade  Range  in  Oregon, 
or  the  Blue  Range  in  California. 

There  can  be  no  doubt,  from  what  the  Indians  tell  us,  in  this  plateau,  between  the 
two  ranges,  the  prospects  will  at  no  distant  day  develop  a  field  as  rich  in  the  precious 
minerals  as  any  found  in  the  southward. 
Very  respectfully, 

F.  K.  LOUTHAN. 

Hon.  VINCENT  vCoLYER, 

Fort  Wrangle,  A.  T. 


' 
APPENDIX  C  2. 

Letter  from  Frank  Mahoney  on  the  Indians  and  their  trade  in  Eastern  Alaska, 

SITKA,  A.  T. 

DEAR  SIR  :  In  compliance  with  your  request  I  give  you  my  views  in  relation  to  the 
various  Indian  tribes  of  this  Territory  as  far  as  my  observation  goes.  In  regard  to  the 
population  and  number  of  some  of  the  tribes  I  have  no  data  ;  of  others  I  can  speak 
from  observation ;  that  is  to  say,  from  Cook's  Inlet  to  the  southern  boundary. 

From  what  I  can  learn  of  the  extreme  northwest,  in  the  Behring  Sea  to  the  Straits, 
the  Indians  lead  a  wandering  life,  and  are  variously  designated  as  the  "  Kochuiisky," 
"  Onossky,"  "  Cagatsky,"  and  "  Colching."  These  tribes  are  estimated  from  four  thou 
sand  to  five  thousand.  During  the  winter  months,  say  from  October  to  April,  they  will 
wander  over  immense  tracts  of  country  in  bands  of  from  fifty  to  one  hundred,  sometimes 
undergoing  great  privation ;  and  it  has'been  said  that  they  will  sometimes  sacrifice  one  of 
their  number  to  save  the  rest  from  starvation.  Their  occupation  is  trapping  and  hunt 
ing  the  reindeer.  They  will  travel  during  this  season  of  the  year  from  the  valley  of 
Youkon  to  Copper  River,  stopping  for  short  periods  where  game  and  furs  are  plenty. 
They  will  sometimes  touch  the  shores  of  Prince  William's  Sound,  Cook's  Inlet,  and  also 
the  western  shore,  in  Behring  Sea.  The  skins  they  collect  are  fine  marten,  mink,  silver 
and  black  fox.  The  few  natives  the  writer  has  seen,  shows  them  to  be  a  peaceable 
race  and  respectful  to  the  white  man,  looking  upon  him  as  a  superior ;  there  is  no 
doubt  but  they  could  be  shaped  into  useful  citizens  in  time. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       575 


To  the  south,  on  the  Aleutian  chain  of  islands  and  on  the  peninsula  of  Unalaska,  are 
the  Aleutes,  a  very  quiet  race,  and  nearly  all  Christians.  Their  number  is  said  to  be 
about  seven  thousand.  Those  living  on  the  islands  are  engaged  in  fur-sealing,  sea  - 
otter  hutting,  and  trapping  the  fox,  of  which  there  are  the  silver,  cross,  and  red.  They 
are  found  employed  at  the  different  trading  posts  in  the  Territory. 

The  Indians  of  Cook's  Inlet  and  adjacent  waters  are  called  "  Kanisky."  They  are 
settled  along  the  shore  of  the  inlet  and  on  the  east  shore  of  the  peninsula.  A  very  so 
ciable  race  of  Indians,  their  number  is  from  five  hundred  to  eight  hundred.  During 
the  winter  months  they  leave  the  shores  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  and  trapping, 
when  in  the  spring  they  return  to  their  summer  homes,  dispose  of  their  winter  pro 
ducts  to  traders  for  tea,  sugar,  tobacco,  sheeting,  prints,  clothing,  flour,  hardware,  such 
as  knives,  axes,  hatchets,  &c.  The  spring  and  summer,  till  the  latter  part  of  June,  is 
passed  in  idleness,  when  the  salmon  season  commences,  and  lasts  until  August,  when 
they  dry  large  quantities  of  salmon,  weighing  from  forty  to  one  hundred  pounds  each. 

East  of  Cook's  Inlet,  in  Prince  William's  Sound,  there  are  but  few  Indians ;  they 
are  called  "  Nuchusk."  There  may  be  about  four  hundred  in  all,  with  some  few  Aleutes. 

Hutchinson,  Kohlo  &  Co.  have  a  post  on  the  south  end  of  Heuenbrooke  Island,  which 
is  the  depot  for  the  furs  that  come  down  the  Copper  River,  although  they  collect  many 
sea-otter,  for  which  the  shore  about  the  mouth  of  Copper  River  and  around  Middleton 
Island  is  famous. 

Every  year,  the  middle  of  June,  three  or  four  large  skin-canoes,  capable  of  carrying 
five  tons  each,  are  sent  up  Copper  River,  loaded  with  trading  goods,  done  up  in  one- 
huiidred-pound  packages,  covered  with  water-tight  skins,  so  that  should  accident  hap 
pen,  which  not  unfrequently  occurs,  the  goods  are  portable  to  handle.  It  takes  about 
eighty  days  to  make  the  trip ;  the  canoes  are  hauled  most  of  the  way  on  the  ice,  on 
their  ascent  of  the  river.  On  the  return,  the  winter  collection  of  furs  are  brought 
down,  the  river  then  being  clear  of  ice.  The  magazine  is  about  eighty  miles  up  the  river. 
The  Indians  about  Copper  River  are  called  "  Madnussky,"  or  Copper  Indians,  and  may 
be  classed  with  the  wandering  tribes.  To  the  east,  along  the  coast,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Copper  River,  we  come  to  Behring  Bay.  The  most 
northern  of  the  Kolosh  Indians,  of  which  there  are  numerous  tribes,  extending  to  Port 
land  Canal,  all  speak  the  same  language  with  a  little  difference  in  dialect.  They 
are  a  savage  and  piratical  race,  and  as  a  general  thing  are  not  to  be  trusted.  Fear  of 
punishment  for  outrages  keeps  them  in  order. 

I  herewith  add  a  list  of  the  tribes  from  Behring  Bay  to  the  southern  boundary  : 


•                          Residence. 

Name  of  trihe. 

Number. 

Behrin"1  Bay  

Yucatat 

300 

Behring  Bay  

Stikine 

1  200 

Behrin"1  Bay         .  .              ... 

600 

Cross  Sound  

Whmega 

500 

Cross  Sound 

Whinegi  (Interior) 

800 

Chilkaht  Inlet  

Chilkaht  ' 

2  500 

Chilkaht  Inlet 

300 

Stephen  Passage        

Takon 

2  000 

Stephen  Passage  

Sitka 

1  000 

Admiralty  Island 

1  000 

Admiralty  Island  

Kake 

750 

Admiralty  Island  

Auk 

750 

Of  the  Yucatat  tribe,  they  have  but  few  furs  in  the  winter ;  they  do  nothing  in  spring. 
They  trade  and  trap  with  some  Indians  to  the  south  of  them,  who  live  on  some  small 
streams  that  empty  into  the  ocean.  I  could  get  no  information  from  them  respecting  their 
neighbors,  respecting  their  numbers  and  language.  All  they  said  was,  that  they  were 
more  numerous  than  themselves,  and  they  made  good  trade  with  them  for  marten,  mink, 
fox,  bear,  wolverine,  and  lynx,  for  which  they  gave  them  tobacco,  brown  sheeting, 
needles,  thread,  knives,  buttons,  beads,  &c. 

The  Yucatats  have  been  in  the  habit  of  trading  with  the  Sitkas  and  Chilkahts,  who 
in  the  summer  season  pay  them  visits,  taking  from  Sitka  such  articles  as  dry  goods, 
powder,  shot,  knives,  and  trinkets,  bringing  back  furs. 

The  Whinegas  have  but  few  furs ;  they  are  chiefly  employed  in  hair-seal  fishing,  of 
which  they  get  abundance ;  they  get  in  trade  about  eight  cents  apiece  for  them.  They 
also  get  some  marten,  mink,  fox,  and  bear  from  Cross  Sound. 

We  go  north  to  Chilkaht,  at  the  head  of  the  inlet  so  named,  where  there  is  a  river  on 
which  there  are  three  villages ;  each  village  is  presided  over  by  a  chief. 

The  Chilkahts  are  the  most  numerous  of  all  the  Kolosh  tribes.  They  catch  some  furs 
about  their  own  grounds,  but  the  greater  portion  comes  from  the  interior,  or  where 
they  go  to  trade  twice  a  year,  spring  and  fall.  There  is  no  doubt  but  they  make  a  big 
profit  on  the  skins  they  bring  down. 


576        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

Nothing  is  known  of  these  interior  Indians,  only  what  the  Coast  Indians  say,  that 
they  are  called  "  Si-him-e-na,  or  Stick  Indians."  They  will  allow  no  whites  to  pass  up 
the  rivers.  The  trade  which  the  Coast  Indians  take  into  the  interior  consists  of  dry 
goods,  blankets,  tobacco,  powder,  shot,  and  light  flint-lock  muskets,  if  they  can  get  them. 
Although  the  ammunition  and  muskets  are  a  prohibited  trade  in  this  Territory,  still 
the  Indians  get  them  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Fort  Simpson.  Steel  traps, 
knives,  hatchets,  needles  and  thread,  and  little  cheap  jewelry,  form  their  principal 
trade,  for  which  they  get  in  exchange,  marten,  mink,  silver,  cross,  and  red  fox,  black, 
brown,  and  grizzly  bear^  lynx,  wolverine,  ermine,  beaver,  land  otter,  and  some  inferior 
skins.  The  price  they  give  may  be  represented  thus :  Marten,  50  cents ;  mink,  25  cents  ; 
lynx,  20  cents ;  silver  fox,  $1  25 ;  cross  and  red  fox,  from  25  cents  to  50  cents  ;  wolver 
ine,  37-J-  cents ;  bear,  black,  50  cents  to  $1  50 ;  bear,  grizzly,  50  cents  to  $1  50 ;  bear, 
brown,  50  cents ;  beaver,  20  cents  to  40  cents  ;  land  otter,  50  cents. 

These  they  exchange  Avith  the  trader  at  an  advance  of  from  two  hundred  to  four  hun 
dred  per  cent,  for  such  articles  as  they  require.  The  traders'  tariff  may  be  quoted :  For 
prints  and  sheeting,  25  cents  per  yard ;  tobacco,  $1  50  per  pound ;  molasses,  $1  per  gal 
lon;  powder,  $1  50  per  pound;  shot,  50  cents  per  pound ;  blankets,  (assorted,)  $3  to  $6. 
Steel  traps,  knives,  vermilion,  flour,  hard  bread,  beans,  rice,  and  some  few  articles  in 
the  way  of  clothing,  pants,  shirts,  (cotton  and  woollen,)  blue  cloth  caps  with  glazed 
covers,  shoes,  and  some  minor  articles. 

The  trading  prices  for  skins  are :  Marten,  $2  to  $3 ;  mink,  25  cents  to  $1  50 ;  bear, 
black,  $1  50  to  $3  50  ;  bear,  grizzly,  $1  to  $3  10  ;  bear,  brown,  50  cents  to  $2  50  ;  fox, 
silver,  $4;  fox,  cross,  $1  50  to  $2;  fox,  red,  75  cents  to  $1 ;  beaver,  80  cents  to  $1  per 
pound ;  land  otter,  $1  50  to  $2 ;  hair  seal,  8  cents  to  10  cents  ;  deer  skins,  15  cents  to  20 
cents. 

The  above  may  answer  for  the  Indians  from  Chilkaht  to  Portland  Inlet.  Of  the  Ta- 
koos,  the  same  may  be  said  as  of  the  Chilkahts  and  tribes  above  Stephen's  Passage. 

On  the  east  of  Admiralty  Island  are  the  Koot-se-noos.  They  have  but  few  furs,  but 
collect  considerable  hair  seal  and  deer  skins.  They  also  raise  quantities  of  potatoes  of 
good  quality  and  fair  size. 

Coming  east  through  Pearl  Straits  to  Sitka  are  the  tribe  of  that  name.  They  are 
employed  in  trading  with  the  other  tribes,  hunting,  and  fishing,  and  are  employed  as 
porters  and  laborers  about  the  town  of  Sitka.  They  also  cut  nearly  all  the  cord  wood 
that  is  used  by  the  citizens.  They  may  be  considered  very  useful  adjuncts  of  the  town 
citizens,  as  they  are  the  chief  purveyors,  supplying  them  with  all  kinds  of  fish  and 
game,  such  as  ducks,  geese,  venison,  grouse,  &c. 

Going  south  around  Baranof  Island,  and  up  through  a  portion  of  Chath.am  Straits, 
we  come  to  the  Rat  tribe  on  Kyro  and  Kespriano  Islands.  They  catch  some  furs,  such 
as  lynx,  bear,  and  hair  seal,  besides  trading  with  some  of  theirneighbors.  Their  trade 
has  fallen  off  considerably  since  the  occupation  of  the  Territory  by  the  Americans. 
They  formerly  were  in  the  habit  of  getting  their  trading  goods  from  small  crafts  from 
Victoria,  but  at  present  the  Indians  north,  south,  east,  for  two  hundred  miles,  either 
come  to  Sitka  or  get  their  wants  supplied  from  small  crafts  that  load  or  are  owned  by 
Sitka  merchants. 

Passing  east  and  south  through  Frederick's  Sound,  we  come  to  Wrangle  Island  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Stikine  River,  where  are  the  villages  of  the  Stikine  tribe.  They 
were  some  years  ago  a  numerous  tribe,  but  liquor  and  its  concomitant  vices  materially 
lessened  their  numbers.  They  collect  considerable  marten,  mink,  bear,  and  lynx. 
They  have  formerly  carried  on  considerable  trade  with  the  interior  tribes,  but  since  the 
discovery  of  gold  in  1862,  the  competition  of  the  whites  has  lessened  their  trade. 

The  furs  that  are  collected  in  this  section  are  principally  disposed  of  at  Fort  Wrangle. 

To  the  west  and  south  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island  is  an  off-shoot  of  the  Hydah  or 
Queen  Charlotte  Island  Indians.  They  number  some  three  hundred  and  are  called 
An-e-ga.  They,  it  may  be  said,  are  the  onlylndians  from  Behring  Bay  to  Portland 
Inlet  that  speak  a  different  language  from  the  rest.  They  raise  considerable  quantities 
of  potatoes,  trap  mink,  bear,  and  beaver.  They  also  go  up  the  Naas  River  in  March 
for  the  collection  of  the  hoolicon  or  candle-fish  oil,  which,  when  pressed,  is  as  well 
flavored  as  leaf  lard. 

In  Clarence  Straits  and  adjacent  islands  they  are  the  connecting  link  between  the 
Kolosh  race  and  Simpsians  on  the  British  side.  They  speak  the  Kolosh,  Simpsian,  and 
Hydah  tongue.  They  catch  considerable  mink,  bear,  beaver,  wolverine,  and  some  sea 
otter.  The  Ari-e-gas  collect  large  quantities  of  candle-fish  oil  or  grease.  It  is  put  up 
in  tight  cedar  boxes,  from  fifty  to  eighty  pounds,  and  taken  north  as  far  as  Chilkaht,  and 
brings  good  prices  in  furs. 

The  Indians  from  Puget  Sound  to  the  northwest  catch  and  dry  large  quantities  of 
salmon ;  the  further  north  the  better  the  salmon. 

In  Cook's  Inlet  the  salmon  commence  running  in  June  and  deteriorate  in  quality  as 
they  go  south.  July  and  August  are  the  months  about  the  latitude  of  Sitka,  and  grad 
ually  later  as  they  go  south,  so  that  at  Puget  Sound  in  September  and  October  they 
are  the  most  plentiful,  and  not  as  good  flavor. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       577 

Take  the  Indians  of  the  coast  of  the  Territory  they  are  as  well  supplied  with  the 
necessaries  of  life  as  the  aborigines  of  any  country  in  the  world.  The  forests  are  filled 
with  game,  the  waters  with  fish,  and  the  heach  and  rocks  with  clams  and  muscles. 
They  are  a  healthy  and  vigorous  race ;  both  men  and  women  can  back  very  heavy  loads. 
The  men  and  women  are  more  on  an  equality  than  the  Indians  of  Puget  Sound  and 
east  of  the  Cascade  range.  They  are  steady  and  good  workers  for  a  short  time — say 
one  month — when  they  like  to  knock  oif  for  about  the  same  time.  The  writer  thinks 
that  it  would  be  an  impossibility  to  turn  the  Indian  from  his  vagabond  life.  ,  The  change 
to  order,  with  laws  and  schools,  might  last  for  a  short  time,  but  the  novelty  would  wear 
oif,  and  they  would  fall  back  into  their  old  ways.  They  soon  pick  up  the  vices  with 
none  of  the  virtues  of  the  whites.  It  is  the  opinion  of  the  writer  that  it  would  take  a 
generation  to  shape  them  into  useful  citizens,  although  a  partial  success  has  been  ob 
tained  by  Mr.  Duncan  a  short  distance  below  Fort  Simpson  with  the  Chimpsians,  and 
still  they  fall  off. 

The  writer  is  not  at  all  prejudiced  against  the  Indians.    Wherever  he  has  come  in 
contact  with  them,  which  has  been  much  in  the  last  sixteen  years,  he  has  endeavored 
to  show  them  the  bad  policy  of  their  predatory  ways  ;  show  them  advantages  which 
can  accrue  by  industry,  that  this  may  act  as  a  stimulant. 
Respectfully  yours, 

FRANK  MAHONY. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

Special  United  States  Indian  Commissioner. 


APPENDIX  D. 

Inquiry  as  to  causes  of  violation  of  liquor  laic. 

SITKA,  ALASKA,  September  14,  1869. 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  find  that  a  large  quantity  of  whisky  gets  into  the  hands  of  the  Indians 
in  Alaska.  In  a  conference  with  several  of  the  chiefs  this  morning  I  learn  that  this 
was  the  cause  of  a  riotous  disturbance  in  their  village  at  this  place  last  evening,  and 
these  chiefs  earnestly  requested  that  its  introduction  might  be  stopped.  Of  course  you 
are  aware  that  the  traffic  in  this  article  is  interdicted  by  special  act  of  Congress.  Will 
you  inform  me  what  in  your  opinion  is  the  reason  that  so  much  of  this  pernicious  poison 
escapes  the  vigilance  of  the  revenue  officers  and  finds  its  way  into  the  Territory  ? 
Very  respectfully  yours, 

VINCENT  COLYER, 
Special  United  States  Indian  Commissioner. 
WILLIAM  KAPUS,  Esq., 

Collector  of  Customs,  District  of  Alaska. 


Eeplij  of  Collector  Kapus. 

CUSTOM-HOUSE,  SITKA,  ALASKA,  September  14,  1869. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  to-day,  requesting 
me  to  inform  you  what,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  reason  that  so  much  spirituous  liquors  seem 
to  escape  the  vigilance  of  the  revenue  officers  and  finds  its  way  into  this  Territory. 

In  answer,  I  would  state  that  great  inducements  are  offered  to  unprincipled  men  for 
bringing  liquor  into  this  country,  as  they  can  purchase  from  the  Indians  for  one  bottle 
of  whisky  more  furs  than  five  times  the  value  of  the  whisky  in  money  would  procure. 
The  Indian's  fondness  of  intoxicating  liquor  is  well  known,  and  white  men,  actuated 
by  the  desire  of  making  all  the  money  they  can,  and  not  caring  about  the  means  by 
•which  they  reach  this  end,  take  advantage  of  this  unfortunate  taste,  visit  their  villages 
and  fisheries  and  deal  out  to  them  the  poison,  which  has  almost  in  every  instance  been 
at  the  bottom  of  our  Indian  difficulties. 

The  question  arises,  how  is  this  liquor  brought  into  this  Territory  without  the  knowl 
edge  of  the  revenue  officers?  On  your  trip  to  this  port  you  will  have  noticed  the  pecu 
liar  formation  of  the  coast — all  the  way  from  Puget  Sound  it  is  one  continued  archipel 
ago,  the  island  being  separated  by  narrow  but  mostly  deep  channels ;  small  vessels 
can  run  through  these  channels  and  into  the  numerous  bays  making  into  the  coast,  and 
land  their  cargoes  without  running  hardly  any  risk  of  being  caught  by  the  revenue 
officers.  These  small  vessels,  schooners,  and  sloops  go  to  Fort  Simpson,  Queen  Char- 
lott's  Island,  and  other  English  trading  posts,  and  smuggle  liquor  across  our  line.  The 
cutter  Lincoln  is  now  in  pursuit  of  a  man  by  the  name  of  Charles  Stevens,  who  has 

37  I  A 


578       REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN  AFFAIRS. 

been  reported  to  me  as  being  in  our  waters  with  a  full  cargo  of  liquor  on  board  of  bis 
vessel  But  tbis  traffic  is  not  confined  to  wbite  men ;  Indians,  too,  visit,  in  tbeir  canoes, 
our  Englisb  neigbbors ;  they  will  travel  hundreds  of  miles  to  procure  a  supply  of  this 
liquid  fire.  Another  mode  of  introducing  it  into  this  district  is  to  smuggle  it  into  this 
port,  and  from  thence  ship  it  to  the  different  points  where  it  is  wanted  for  purposes  of 
trade  with  the  Indians.  Only  day  before  yesterday  I  discovered  such  an  attempt,  and 
seized  ninety-two  cans  of  alcohol,  of  five  gallons  each,  which  had  been  packed  in  coal- 
oil  boxes,  and  was  sought  to  be  landed  as  coal  oil. 

What  is  wanted  in  this  district  is  a  small  steam  cutter  of  say  from  twenty-five  to 
fifty  tons  burden,  of  light  draught,  but  great  speed ;  a  vessel  that  would  be  able  to  run 
through  all  the  channels  and  into  all  the  bays ;  with  such  a  vessel  I  could  intercept  all 
the  crafts  engaged  in  smuggling  liquor,  and  follow  and  arrest  all  traders  violating  any 
of  the  laws  pertaining  to,  and  intended  to  prevent,  this  traffic.  With  the  means  now  at 
my  command  I  am  almost  entirely  helpless.  The  cutter  Reliance,  being  a  sailing  ves 
sel,  is  unable  to  make  her  way  through  the  islands  with  any  degree  of  speed  or  safety, 
and  the  steam  cutter  Lincoln  is  prevented  by  her  size  and  draught  of  water  from  being- 
effective  in  this  service. 

Since  I  entered  upon  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  my  office,  July  1  last,  I  have  made 
numerous  seizures  of  liquors  brought  into  the  Territory  in  violation  of  law ;  but  I  am 
satisfied,  had  I  had  a  vessel  of  the  above  description  under  my  control,  my  success 
would  have  been  greater. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

WILLIAM  KAPUS,  Collector. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

Special  U.  S.  Indian  Commissioner,  Sitka,  Alaska. 


APPENDIX  G. 
Letter  from  Captain  Selden  on  evasions  of  liquor  law. 

UNITED  STATES  REVENUE  CUTTER  RELIANCE, 

Sitka,  Alaska,  September  14,  1869. 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  this  date, 
requesting  me  to  inform  you  what,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  reason  that  so  much  spirituous 
liquor  gets  into  the  hands  of  the  Indians  in  Alaska,  and  escapes  the  vigilance  of  the 
revenue  officers. 

In  answer  I  must  confess  that  large  quantities  are  brought  into  the  Territory  and 
peddled  to  the  Indians  along  the  whole  extent  of  water-line  of  this  Territory,  and  I 
feel  assured  it  will  continue  so  until  we  are  furnished  with  small  steam-vessels  for  the 
inland  channels.  I  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  most  of  this  liquor  is  brought 
to  the  Territory  by  small  vessels,  trading  all  the  way  from  Victoria,  Vancouver  Island, 
to  some  point  near  this  port.  What  we  want  to  break  up  this  traffic  is  two  steam-tugs 
or  launches  of  light  draught  of  water,  so  arranged  that  they  can  burn  either  coal  or  wood. 
They  would  not  require  a  large  force  to  man  them,  and  they  would  be  found  very 
effective  in  protecting  the  revenue. 

At  the  present  time  we  have  two  cutters  in  this  district :  the  Lincoln,  a  steam-ves 
sel  of  four  hundred  tons,  kept  cruising  through  the  season  in  Behring's  Sea,  and  to  the 
westward;  the  Reliance,  a  sailing-vessel,  which  cannot  cruise  inland,  owing  to  the 
strong  tides  and  intricate  channels  ;  and  in  fact  a  sailing-vessel  is  of  no  earthly  use  in 
these  waters.  With  such  force  as  we  have  at  our  command  it  is  unreasonable  to  ex 
pect  us  to  prevent  illicit  traffic. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  M.  SELDEN, 

Captain  United  States  Revenue  Marine. 
Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

Special  United  States  Indian  Commissioner. 


Letter  from  Collector  Kapus  on  the  sale  of  liquors  ly  auction,  at  Sitka,  in  Alaska. 

CUSTOMS  DISTRICT  OF  ALASKA,  COLLECTOR'S  OFFICE, 

Port  of  Sitka,  October  25,  1869. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the  18th  of  Sep- 
eniber,  1869,  making  certain  inquiries  concerning  the  recent  illegal  importation  of  spir- 
tuous  liquors  into  this  Territory,  and  in  reply,  that  the  alcohol  referred  to  in  my  letter 
of  the  14th  of  September  last  was  brought  here  in  the  United  States  steamer  Newbern. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       579 

As  the  value  of  this  liquor  exceeded  $400  I  seized  the  entire  invoice  of  the  shippers 
Messrs.  Kirikead  &  Louthan,  amounting,  according  to  the  appraiser's  report,  to  $6,664  50> 
and  have  reported  the  case  to  the  honorable  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  for  his  orders. 

Messrs.  Kinkead  &  Louthan  have  offered,  in  addition  to  the  forfeiture  of  their  goods, 
to  pay  to  the  government  the  sum  of, $500  as  a  fine,  in  full  discharge  of  all  liabilities  they 
may  have  incurred  in  the  premises.  I  have  recommended  that  this  offer  be  accepted, 
as  it  is  the  full  penalty  of  the  law,  and  I  ani  satisfied  that  nothing  would  be  gained  by 
throwing  the  case  into  court. 

Colonel  Frank  N.  Wicker,  the  special  agent  of  the  Treasury  Department  for  this  dis 
trict,  has  joined  me  in  this  recommendation.  I  did  not  seize  the  ship,  because  she  was 
a  United  States  transport,  and  it  would  have  been  a  mere  farce  for  the  government  to 
have  confiscated  its  own  property ;  but  I  did  arrest  the  captain,  W.  Freeman,  jr.,  and 
placed  him  under  $10,000  bond  to  appear  before,  and  deliver  himself  up  to,  any  court  of 
the  United  States  that  may  be  designated  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

In  regard  to  the  probable  disposal  of  this  liquor  I  will  quote  from  my  report  to  the 
department  of  September  18,  1869  :  "  I  would  also  ask,  in  case  the  course  above  recom 
mended  be  adopted,  that  I  be  authorized  to  send  the  alcohol  and  spirituous  liquors  to 
San  Francisco  and  have  them  sold  at  public  auction.  To  sell  and  deliver  this  class  of 
goods  here  would  virtually  be  an  evasion  of  the  law ;  and  if  they  are  sold  on  condi 
tion  that  they  be  shipped  out  of  the  Territory,  they  would  not  bring  near  their  true 
value." 

The  liquors  that  were  seized  by  me  in  the  month  of  August  from  on  board  the  steam 
ship  Active  were  sold  at  this  port  on  the  14th  instant,  but  were  delivered  to  the  pur 
chasers  only  in  limited  quantities  for  the  use  of  the  white  inhabitants,  and,  as  the  law 
requires,  upon  the  written  permits  of  the  general  commanding  the  department. 

Wishing  you  safe  journey  to  your  home  in  the  eastern  States,  and  earnestly  request 
ing  that  you  will  use  the  influence  of  your  position  to  bring  the  many  disadvantages 
under  which  we  are  laboring  in  this  remote  corner  of  the  Union  to  the  attention  of  the 
proper  authorities, 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

WILLIAM  KAPUS, 

Collector. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYETI, 

Special  United  States  Indian  Commissioner,  SitJca,  A.  T. 


VIOLATION  OF  LIQUOR  LAW. 

UNITED  STATES  REVENUE  STEAMER  LINCOLN, 

SitJca,  August  30,  1869. 

•  SIR:  Upon  leaving  the  vessel  on  the  17th  of  July,  1869,  in  Bristol  Bay,  accompanied 
by  Dr.  Mclntyre,  special  agent,  I  proceeded  to  the' settlement  on  the  Neuchegac  River. 
We  boarded  and  examined  on  the  way  up  the  schooner  General  Harney,  M.  Levi,  mas 
ter.  -Captain  Levi  was  then  at  the  settlement.  We  landed  at  the  village  about  5  p.  in., 
and  found  three  persons  grossly  intoxicated;  two  Russians  (traders)  and  native, 
(acting  priest.)  >We  accused  Captain  Levi  of  having  sold  liquor  to  the  natives;  he 
said  that  he  had  sold  nothing  more  than  nine  (9)  bottles  of  ale,  at  the  same  time  he 
had  a  bottle  of  whisky  in  his  possession,  which  he  said  was  for  his  own  use. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

M.  A.  HEALY, 

Second  Lieutenant,  United  States  Revenue  Marine. 
Captain  JOHN  H.  MENRIGUES. 

Official : 

SAMUEL  B.  McINTYRE, 

First  Lieutenant  Second  Artillery  and  Bvt.  Capt.  U.  S.  A., 

Acting  Assistant  Adjutant  General. 


VIOLATION  OF  LIQUOR  LAW  BY  COAST  TRADERS. 

UNITED  STATES  REVENUE  CUTTER  LINCOLN, 

SitJca,  Alaska  Territory,  August  30,  1869. 

SIR  :  This  steamer  in  cruising  during  the  present  summer  visited  Neuchegack  River, 
Bristol  Bay,  arriving  at  that  place  July  17. 
It  became  a  necessity  to  obtain  a  pilot  for  the  navigation  of  Bristol  Bay  and  Neuch- 


580       EEPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

gack  River,  and  a  boat  was  accordingly  dispatched  under  an  officer  to  obtain  one — the 
vessel  being  at  anchor  in  bay,  and  not  arriving  at  anchorage  in  Neuehgack  River  until 
morning.  Second  Lieutenant  M.  A.  Healy  was  the  officer  in  charge  of  boat,  Special 
Agent  Dr.  H.  H.  Mclntyre  accompanying  him.  They  went  up  to  trading  post,  and 
remained  until  arrival  of  steamer,  coming  on  board  the  following  day.  I  am  informed 
by  these  parties  that  three  persons  were  found  drunk  on  shore,  two  being  Russians, 
the  third  a  native,  (officiating  priest.)  This  liquor  I  am  satisfied  was  furnished  by  the 
schooner  General  Harney,  Marquis  Levi,  master,  lying  at  anchorage  iu  the  river.  I 
have  every  reason  to  think  Captain  Levi  traded  with  these  people  while  in  this  condi 
tion.  It  is  quite  certain  that  no  liquor  was  in  the  place  until  the  arrival  of  the  General 
Harney,  and  Captain  Levi  has  admitted  that  the  persons  named  did  get  drunk  on  his 
vessel,  saying,  however,  it  was  by  accident,  he  inviting  them  on  board  as  guests,  and 
they  getting  drunk  at  his  table. 

I  respectfully  submit  the  above  for  your  consideration  and  action. 
I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  yours, 

JOHN  A.  HENRIQUES, 
Captain  United  States  Revenue  Marine. 
Major  General  J.  C.  DAVIS, 

Commanding  Department  of  Alaska. 

Official : 

SAMUEL  B.  McINTYRE, 

First  Lieutenant  Second  Artillery  and  Bvt.  Capt.  U.  8.  A., 

Acting  Assistant  Adjutant  General. 


VIOLATION  OF  THE  LIQUOK  LAW  BY  THE  AMERICAN-RUSSIAN  ICE  COMPANY'S  SHIPS. 

UNALASKA,  August  19,  1869. 

In  the  month  of  May  the  ship  Casarowhitz  landed  at  Bilkofsky,  in  Alaska  Territory. 
The  day  after  its  arrival  there  were  brought  ashore  two  small  kegs  of  five  gallons 
whisky ;  the  inhabitants  were  assembled  and  were  made  drunk.  Then  Captain  Sand 
man  snowed  them  a  paper  with  a  large  seal  affixed,  and  told  the  natives  that  it  was  a 
permit  from  General  Davis  to  land  the  whisky,  and  furthermore  told  them  that  they 
were  not  to  trade  with  any  company  but  his.  A  day  or  two  after  that  about  forty 
gallons  of  whisky  and  eight  casks  of  California  brand  were  landed  from  the  same  ship 
Casarowhitz ;  during  the  night-time  there  was  a  ball  and  the  natives  again  had  a  drunk. 
The  day  before  its  departure  the  ship  landed  about  forty  gallons  more  of  whisky.  I 
am  certain  that  he  told  those  Aleutes  that  for  each  sea  otter  brought  to  the  store  of  that 
company  a  bottle  of  brandy  would  be  given.  He  bought  for  a  bottle  of  brandy  a 
small  sea  otter  from  a  certain  Kandrat  of  Kazutin.  Every  feast  day  he  gives  the 
Taye  (chief)  a  bottle  of  brandy,  as  also  to  others,  and  one  may  see  any  day  drunken 
Aleutes  about  the  store. 

In  May,  1868,  the  brig  Olga  came  to  Bilkofsky,  and  got  the  Aleutes  drunk.  The 
Taye  was  told  that  the  Russian  company  would  punish  him  if  he  traded  with  any 
other  concern,  (than  his,)  and  the  natives  believe  that  they  will  be  punished. 

CARL  OSCHE. 

True  translation  of  original : 

S.  C.  KELLOGG, 
Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel   U.  S.  A.,  Aide-de-Camp. 

HEADQUARTERS  DEPARTMENT  OF  ALASKA, 

SitJca,  Alaska,  September  17,  1869. 

A  true  copy : 

SAMUEL  B.  McINTIRE, 
First  Lieutenant  Second  Artillery  and  Brevet  Captain  U.  S.  A.,  A.  A.  A.  G. 


APPENDIX  E. 
Medical  Director  Bailey  on  intemperance  and  debauchery. 

SITKA,  ALASKA  TERRITORY,  October  25,  1869. 

MY  DEAR  SIR  :  I  inclose  for  your  information  the  report  of  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon 
John  A.  Tonner,  United  States  Army,  in  medical  charge  of  the  Indians  iu  this  vicinity, 
in  conformity  to  instructions  given  him  by  me.  A  copy  of  the  same  is  inclosed. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       581 

This  report  is  instructive  and  contains  important  suggestions  which,  if  carried  out, 
would  go  far  towards  improving  their  condition. 

I  am  satisfied  that  little  or  nothing  can  be  done  until  they  are  placed  under  better 
and  more  favorable  influences.  A  greater  mistake  could  not  have  been  committed  than 
stationing  troops  in  their  midst.  They  mutually  debauch  each  other,  and  sink  into  that 
degree  of  degradation  in  which  it  is  impossible  to  reach  each  other  through  moral  or 
religious  influences. 

Whisky  has  been  sold  in  the  streets  by  government  officials  at  public  auctions,  and 
examples  of  drunkenness  are  set  before  them  almost  daily,  so  that  in  fact  the  principal 
teaching  they  at  present  are  receiving  is  that  drunkenness  and  debauchery  are  held  by 
us,  not  as  criminal  and  unbecoming  a  Christian  people,  but  as  indications  of  our 
advanced  and  superior  civilization. 

These  Indians  $re  a  civil  and  well-behaved  people ;  they  do  not  want  bayonets  to 
keep  them  in  subjection,  but  they  do  want  honest,  faithful,  and  Christian  workers 
among  them  ;  those  that  will  care  for  them,  teach  and  instruct  them  in  useful  arts,  and 
that  they  are  responsible  beings.  I  look  upon  the  different  military  posts  in  this 
department  as  disastrous  and  destructive  to  their  well-being ;  they  are  not,  and  can 
never  be,  of  the  least  possible  use;  they  are  only  so  many  whisky  fonts  from  whence  it- 
is  spread  over  the  country.  If  we  ever  have  trouble  with  them  and  become  involved 
in  war,  it  will  be  found  to  arise  from  these  causes.  From  the  nature  and  character  of 
the  country,  posts  never  can  render  the  least  influence — afford  protection  against  contra 
band  trade  ;  this  can  only  be  done  by  armed  vessels,  in  command  of  choice  men.  To 
go  into  detail  on  all  points  would  require  pages ;  you  have  seen  enough  to  satisfy  your 
self;  and  in  giving  you  the  inclosed  report  I  only  want  to  add  my  testimony  against 
what  I  conceive  to  be  a  most  grievous  error  in  the  management  of  the  Indian  affairs 
in  this  Territory. 

When  you  go  home  send  us  honest,  faithful,  Christian  workers;  not  place-seekers,  but 
those  who  want  to  do  good  work  for  Christ's  sake  and  kingdom.  Send  men  and  women, 
for  both  are  wanted. 

When  you  can  do  away  with  the  evils  spoken  of,  and  which  are  so  evident,  and 
adopt  this  latter  course,  then  there  will  be  hope,  and  not  until  then. 
Sincerely  your  friend. 

E.  J.  BAILEY, 
Surgeon  U.  S.  A.,  Medical  Director  Department  of  Alaska. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER. 


ORDERS  ESTABLISHING  HOSPITAL  AND  MEDICAL  ATTENDANCE. 

HEADQUARTERS  DEPARTMENT  OF  ALASKA, 

MEDICAL  DIRECTOR  's  OFFICE, 
SitJca,  Alaska  Territory,  September  15,  1869. 

DOCTOR  :  In  taking  medical  charge  of  the  Indians,  in  accordance  with  the  instructions 
given  you,  you  will  ascertain  as  near  as  possible  and  report  to  this  office  the  number 
of  males,  females,  and  children ;  their  present  sanitary  condition ;  whether  any  efforts 
have  been  made  or  are  being  made  to  improve  it ;  what  has  been  the  nature  of  the 
medical  assistance  they  have  received  heretofore ;  nature  and  character  of  disease 
among  them,  in  tabular  statements,  giving  percentage,  character  of  their  clothing 
and  food,  their  means  of  procuring  it,  to  what  extent  liquor  has  been  and  still  is  being 
introduced  among  them ;  kind  and  condition  of  the  houses  they  occupy.  You  will 
report  what  provisions  and  arrangements  you  have  made  to  carry  out  your  instructions. 
On  every  Tuesday  you  will  forward  to  this  office  a  report  of  the  previous  week, 
giving  the  number  treated,  (males,  females  and  children,)  with  disease,  and  where  treated. 
You  will  also  report  upon  all  points  of  interest  touching  their  condition,  with  such  sug 
gestions  as  you  may  think  proper  and  practicable  that  will  advance  their  improve 
ment. 

As  you  have  been  chosen  for  this  duty  it  is  hoped  you  will  appreciate  its  importance, 
and  enter  upon  it  with  your  usual  energy,  and  in  a  true  Christian  spirit. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

E.  J.  BAILEY, 
Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel  and  Surgeon  U.  S.  A., 

Medical  Director  Department  of  Alaska. 


Dr.  Tonneijs  report  on  sanitary  condition  of  the  Sitka  Indians  and  their  village. 

SITKA,  ALASKA  TERRITORY,  October  20, 1869. 

SIR  :  In  compliance  with  your  instructions  of  September  15,  I  have  the  honor  to 
make  the  following  report : 
After  waiting  until  now  the  return  of  the  Indians  engaged  in  fishing  I  have  taken 


582        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

the  number  of  those  now  here,  and  find  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  men,  two  hundred 
and  ninety-six  women,  and  two  hundred  and  sixty  children,  making  a  total  of  nine 
hundred  and  twenty-one  now  in  village,  while  they  state  there  are  three  hundred  and 
thirty  still  absent  fishing.  These  all  live  in  forty-four  houses,  built  of  plank  set  upright 
and  roofed  with  bark.  The  floors  are  planked,  except  a  bare  place  in  the  center  where 
the  fire  is  built,  the  smoke  passing  through  an  opening  in  the  roof.  The  buildings 
average  forty  feet  in  width  and  sixty  in  depth  and  twenty  in  height  to 'the  ridge. 
Small  sleeping  apartments  line  the  sides,  and  measure  generally,  six  by  eight  feet. 
Some  have  bedsteads  and  feather  beds ;  a  blanket  serves  the  majority.  Cleanliness  and 
neatness  is  generally  wanting  in  their  abodes,  although  there  are  a  few  who  in  both 
respects  are  excellent  models  for  the  rest,  and  also  the  majority  of  the  Russians  now 
here,  who  live  much  worse  than  these  Indians.  The  latter  claim  as  an  excuse  for  their 
want  of  cleanliness,  the  worse  condition  of  the  Russians  and  the  want  of  interest  shown 
in  them  previous  to  our  arrival  and  possession  of  the  couutry.  The  chief  has  displayed 
a  very  commendable  spirit  in  improvement  of  his  own  house  and  person,  and  urging 
uponliis  tribe  to  do  likewise  ;  but  more  he  was  unable  to  do,  as  his  authority  is  merely 
flomiual.  A  very  filthy  practice  prevails  among  them  of  blacking  their  faces  simply  to 
conceal  other  traces  and  protect  from  the  effects  of  the  sun.  I  have  been  able  to  lessen 
the  practice  by  requiring  clean  faces  on  all  those  prescribed  for. 

Medical  attendance  has  been  furnished  them  by  the  post  surgeon  ever  since  the  arrival 
of  our  troops  here,  but  without  compensation,  while  the  labor  at  times  was  greater 
than  that  required  by  the  troops,  and  at  all  times  more  trying.  The  diseases  most 
common  among  them  are  syphilis,  rheumatism,  and  conjunctivitis.  The  first  is  much 
aggravated  and  diffused  by  unrestrained  intercourse  with  the  troops,  and  affects  both 
sexes  equally.  Its  constitutional  form  is  more  rare  than  among  the  troops,  partially 
owing  to  the  implicit  obedience  to  instructions  given  them  for  cure. 

Rheumatism  is  confined  to  those  past  middle  age,  who,  too  old  for  active  exercise, 
suffer  from  the  natural  effects  of  this  climate  upon  those  so  situated. 

Conjunctivitis  and  corneitis  are  very  common,  owing  to  the  constant  atmosphere 
of  smoke  in  their  houses.  Those  able  to  come  are  prescribed  for  daily  at  nine  a.  m. 
at  the  post  hospital  dispensary  ;  those  unable,  at  their  houses.  For  the  latter  a  hospital 
is  necessary  in  order  to  treat  them  properly ;  but  there  being  no  provision  for  feeding 
or  nursing'such,  I  am  unable  to  take  them  in.  There  are  two  rooms  at  the  post  hos 
pital  which  by  a  little  labor  could  be  soon  arranged  comfortably  for  them  ;  then  the 
authority  to  issue  a  ration  to  each  patient,  and  provisions  made  for  the  payment  of  a 
nurse,  their  needs  in  that  direction  \vould  be  supplied. 

A  blanket  supplies  the  unchanging  article  of  dress,  although  the  females  now  gene 
rally  wear  calico,  and  the  men  drawers  and  shirts,  besides  others  in  our  dress  when 
procurable.  Most  of  them  have  money  from  the  sale  of  wood  and  basket  work,  besides 
supplying  the  market  with  venison,  fish,  and  berries,  for  which  they  obtain  twice  as 
much  as  when  the  Russians  held  the  country.  Their  food  consists  chiefly  of  smoked 
venison,  salmon,  with  candle  fish  oil,  and  salmon  berries ;  they  are  now  acquiring  a 
ta^te  for  rice,  beans,  and  biscuit  and  molasses. 

It  is  impossible  to  prevent  their  obtaining  liquor ;  although  its  sale  to  them  is  prohib 
ited  here,  still  the  low  Russians  obtain  it  without  hindrance,  and  retail  to  them  by  the 
drink ;  yet  I  have  seen  very  little  drinking  among  them,  and  no  disturbance  caused 
by  it. 

Their  moral  condition  is  low,  and  rendered  worse  by  the  proximity  of  the  whites,  as 
evidenced  by  the  superiority  of  the  tribes  in  other  parts  of  the  Territory  whose  rela 
tions  have  been  less  intimate  with  us.  This  is  at  the  lowest  ebb  here,  being  near  the 
largest  town.  Some  efforts  were  made  by  the  Russians  for  their  improvement,  by 
building  a  church  and  school-house.  They  have  services  in  the  former  monthly,  but 
the  latter  is  closed  since  our  occupancy,  as  no  provision  or  teacher  was  furnished  for 
its  maintenance.  It  is  a  good  building,  and  only  wanting  a  competent  soul-loving 
teacher  to  fill  it  at  once  with  as  bright,  apt  children  as  can  be  found  anywhere.  At 
least  one  hundred  and  fifty  are  of  the  proper  age,  and  with  these  only  can  we  hope  to 
improve  their  condition ;  those  who  have  attained  maturity  being  too  fixed  in  their 
habits  and  vices  to  make  much  impression,  (or  improvement,)  while  the  other  material 
is  plastic,  and  being  very  imitative  are  adopting  our  evil  courses,  without  a  knowledge 
of  our  good  ones.  An  eminent,  devoted  chaplain  or  missionary  at  this  place,  who  will 
take  an  interest  in  these  beings  as  immortal  souls,  with  one  or  two  equally  devoted 
teachers,  are  needed ;  the  latter  for  these  neglected  ones,  the  former  for  all  of  us. 

Trusting  that  God  will  bless  your  efforts  for  good  in  this  community,  I  remain,  very 
respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  A.  TONNE R, 
Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  United  States  Army,  Post  Surgecm. 

Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel  E.  J.  BAILEY,  U.  S.  A., 

Medical  Director  Department  of  Alaska. 


EEPOET    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.      583 

APPENDIX  F. 
Letter  from  O.B.  Carlton. 
FISHERIES  OF  SOUTHEASTERN  ALASKA. 

UNITED  STATES  QUARTERMASTERS'  STEAMER  NEWBERN, 

November  15,  1869. 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  will  reply  to  your  inquiries  concerning  the  fisheries  of  Alaska  Territory 
in  the  order  in  which  you  presented  them. 

KINDS  OF  FISH. 

The  most  of  my  experience  in  the  fisheries  of  Alaska  have  been  in  the  vicinity  of 
Sitka,  and  as  far  as  this  enables  me  to  judge,  and  from  what  I  hear,  salmon  are  the 
most  numerous.  Halibut  are  common  here,  large  nutnbers  are  taken  by  the  Indians 
with  their  rude  apparatus.  With  more  improved  implements  the  halibut  could  be 
taken  in  sufficient  quantities  to  make  the  pickling  of  the  napes  and  fins  very  profitable. 
Herring  of  the  choicest  quality  are  found  throughout  the  Territory  ;  in  the  month  of 
April  can  be  caught  by  the  hundreds  of  barrels  with  the  usual  herring  nets.  I  also 
think  mackerel  will  be  caught  in  these  waters  by  following  the  same  course  pursued 
on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

I,  with  others,  in  1857  proceeded  to  Cape  St.  Lucas,  Lower  California,  where,  from 
a  passing  school,  we  caught  some  ten  barrels ;  thence  to  South  Barbara  shores,  where 
we  caught  five  hundred  barrels ;  thence  to  St.  Craps  Island,  two  hundred  barrels,  and 
from  thence  north  to  Point  Reys,  fifty  barrels,  when,  from  a  combination  of  circum 
stances,  the  enterprise  was  abandoned.  I  have  not  resumed  it  since,  being  otherwise 
employed. 

But  from  the  fact  that  they  are  found  in  the  south,  as  also  the  case  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  I  have  seen  in  Alaska  waters  such  other  fish  as  usually  school  with  them,  I 
am  confident  they  may  be  found  here. 

BY  WHOM  TAKEN. 

Last  season  I  employed  American  labor,  but  found  it  to  be  expensive  both  in  trans 
portation  and  wages  to  make  it  pay.  This  year  I  employed  Russians  mostly,  and  find 
the  expense  about  one-half  of  last  season,  but  find  them  too  indolent  to  employ  to  ad 
vantage.  Next  season  I  shall  employ  Indians  altogether,  except  coopering,  and  I  have 
no  doubt  but  they  can  also  be  taught  that  trade.  I  found  them  willing  and  industrious, 
and  kind  when  properly  treated.  They  will  work  for  less  pay  than  Americans  or 
Russians. 

ARTICLES  REQUIRED. 

The  usual  outfit,  such  as  barrels,  salt,  nets,  and  cans  for  curing  them  fresh ;  these 
have  been  taken  from  San  Francisco,  but  the  barrels  may  be  made  on  the  fishing-ground, 
as  there  is  plenty  of  lumber  for  that  purpose. 

THE   BEST  MARKETS 

Are  San  Francisco,  Sandwich  Islands,  and  New  York.  The  price  of  salmon  (with 
cod,  halibut,  and  mackerel  have  had  nothing  to  do  of  late)  ranges  from  five  dollars  to 
ten  dollars  a  barrel,  owing  to  quality  and  quantity  in  market  at  time  of  sale.  I  have 
had  nothing  to  do  with  canning,  but  salmon  preserved  in  this  way  are  a  great  delicacy 
and  an  important  article  of  commerce.  Salmon  are  taken  near  Sitka  in  June,  July, 
and  August,  and  some  few  in  September. 
Very  respectfully, 

O.  B.  CARLTON, 

Superintendent  of Company's  Fisheries, 

VINCENT  COLYER,  Esq., 

Special  United  States  Indian  Commissioner. 


THE  FISHERIES  OF  ALASKA. 
[From  the  Sitka  Times.] 

Among  the  many  industries  natural  to  the  coast  of  Alaska  none  is  more  prolific  of 
wealth  to  the  enterprising  merchant  of  the  Pacific  or  eastern  slope  than  the  fisheries — 
the  cod,  halibut,  salmon,  and  herring,  which  abound  in  immense  quantities  from  Ton 
gas  in  the  south,  to  Behring  Strait  in  the  west.  It  was  one  of  the  strong  reasons  set 


584       REPORT   OF   THE   COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN  AFFAIRS. 

forth  for  the  purchase  by  Mr.  Sunmer  in  his  magnificent  speech  "on  the  cession  of 
Alaska."  Notwithstanding  the  fabulous  statements  made  by  him  in  relation  to  the 
fisheries,  statements  which  many  affected  at  least  to  disbelieve,  the  truth  of  all  has 
been  proven,  and  testimony  is  ample,  derived  since  the  transfer,  and  by  our  own  peo 
ple  traders,  who  have  engaged  in  the  fur  seal  and  other  fur  interests. 

We  who  live  at  Sitka,  and  thence  down  by  way  of  the  Stikine,  Cassan,  and  Tongas, 
know  the  prolificness  of  the  salmon  fisheries,  and  its  ultimate  importance  and  value. 

The  American-Russian  Commercial  Company,  one  of  the  few  associations  of  men 
who  have  shown  enterprise,  have  an  extensive  establishment,  Ozersky  employing  some 
twenty  men  in  constant  service  from  March  to  October.  Last  season,  owing  to  bad 
nets  and  nets  unsuitable  for  the  catch,  they  only  put  up  eight  hundred  barrels  of 
salmon.  This  year,  although  the  season  is  not  ended,  they  have  put  up  and  prepared 
for  the  Atlantic  market  about  one  thousand  barrels  of  salmon.  Baronovitch,  at  Cassan, 
last  year,  with  the  aid  of  only  four  men,  put  up,  in  splendid  order,  seven  hundred  bar 
rels  of  salmon,  and  had  to  cease  the  catch  ere  the  season  was  half  over,  he  having  no 
more  barrels  to  fill.  On  the  7th  of  August,  last  year,  the  Saginaw,  Captain  Mitchell, 
called  at  this  place.  Baronovitch  had  ceased  work  some  three  weeks  before,  but  at 
Mitchell's  request  he  took  his  two  boats  and  seines  to  catch  a  supply  for  the  ship,  and 
in  fifteen  minutes  returned  with  them  loaded  to  the  guards  with  beautiful  salmon. 

He  felt  confident  that  had  his  barrels  not  failed  he  could  have  packed  seven  hundred 
more. 

A  new  method  of  putting  up  salmon  has  recently  been  experimented  on  by  the  Co 
lumbia  River  fishermen,  and  this  year  we  understand  they  are  putting  up  great  quan 
tities  of  them  in  cans,  the  same  as  oysters,  lobsters,  &c. 

This  course  might  be  pursued  here  with  great  advantage,  and  the  facilities  for  its 
successful  prosecution  are  abundant.  We  hope  some  of  our  citizens  will  engage  in  ife 
another  season.  Fish  are  plenty,  labor  is  abundant  and  cheap,  transportation  below  is 
low,  and  the  price  of  fish  remunerative.  It  will  help  the  prosperity  of  the  town,  give 
work  to  our  needy  Russian  population,  and  will  give  still  more  character  to  the  worth 
of  the  Territory. 

There  are  besides  a  hundred  other  fisheries  of  salmon,  where,  added  to  splendid  loca 
tions  for  buildings,  are  good  anchorages  for  vessels.  Hundreds  of  fresh-water  rivers 
come  leaping  down  the  mountains  into  the  sea,  and  into  these  in  the  summer  the  salmon 
run,  and  so  thickly,  that  often  they  blacken  the  water.  Let  us  make  known  these  facts 
to  the  world,  for  once  known  and  believed,  capital  will  surely  seek  an  investment  and 
acquire  in  this  honest  pursuit  the  reward  it  merits. 

Again,  the  halibut  fishing  is  immense.  Westward  from  Sitka  to  Kadiak,  Kenai,  and 
even  to  the  Peninsula  of  Alaska,  these  fish  abound,  and  they  are  immense.  Every  per 
son  who  comes  down  from  the  coast  speaks  of  this  fishing.  As  yet  there  are  none  that 
we  know  of  engaged  in  this  pursuit,  but  if  there  be  a  way  of  preserving  these  fish  for 
the  San  Francisco  market,  an  enterprise  of  that  kind  must  prove  a  success.  The  ex 
perience  of  our  own  people  prove  that,  with  ordinary  precaution,  all  work  of  drying  or 
pickling  can  be  done  as  well  on  the  adjacent  islands  as  further  below. 

But  the  cod  fisheries  of  Alaska  are  of  the  most  moment  and  importance  to  us  as  a  peo 
ple  and  a  nation. 

It  is  a  fact  well  known  that  for  years  the  cod  fisheries  of  the  Atlantic  coast  have 
been  failing,  until  now  that  branch  of  industry  is  merely  nominal.  More  than  one- 
half  of  the  great  fleet  of  vessels  formerly  engaged  in  it  are  now  lying  idle  in  the  harbors 
of  Boston,  Salem,  Lynn,  Newburyport,  and  Marblehead,  or  they  have  gone  into  the  busi 
ness  of  carriers.  There  is  to-day  a  hardy  population  of  fishermen  who  are  cast  adrift 
upon  the  world,  earning  a  livelihood  in  ways  illy  suited  to  them,  and  all  because 
Othello's  occupation  is  gone.  The  vessels  have  proved,  and  are  proving,  a  ruinous  in 
vestment  to  their  owners,  not  earning  enough  to  pay  a  reasonable  interest  on  their 
cost.  Again,  this  industry  has  been  invaluable  to  Massachusetts.  It  was  one  of  her 
great  sources  of  wealth,  and  it  built  up  nearly  all  her  seaport  towns.  Lately  the 
question  of  procuring  some  treaty  stipulations  with  Great  Britain  has  been  urgently 
pressed  by  those  immediately  interested  whereby  the  United  States  can  have  the  right 
of  fishing  for  cod  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  it  is  confidently  expected  by  many  that 
this  right  will  be  soon  secured. 

But  why  obligate  ourselves  to  a  foreign  nation  to  secure  that  which  we  already  have 
at  home  ?  As  fine  cod  fishing  banks  as  exist  in  the  known  world  lie  all  along  the  coast 
of  Alaska,  from  the  Peninsula  of  Unalaska  through  Norton's  and  Kotzebue's  sounds 
into  Behring  Strait.  One  great  difficulty  which  always  existed  on  the  Newfound 
land  banks  is  the  great  depth  of  water,  which  ranges  from  seventy  to  ninety  fathoms. 
The  banks  along  our  coast  only  average  from  thirty  to  fifty  fathoms.  The  fish,  too,  are 
of  equally  as  fine  a  quality,  and  of  good  size. 

There  are,  we  believe,  this  season  some  or  twelve  vessels,  formerly  Cape  Ann  fisher 
men,  which  have  been  brought  around  the  Horn,  engaged  in  the  cod  fisheries  along 
the  coast  of  Alaska.  We  know  they  will  do  well.  Recently  one  little  vessel  has  ar 
rived  at  Port  Townsend  from  the  East.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  idle  fleets  on  the 


EEPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       585 

eastern  coast  cannot  be  profitably  employed  on  this  coast.  They  are  generally  calcu 
lated  for  a  freight  capacity  of  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  tons,  and  can  easily  load 
with  freight  at  Boston  or  New  York  for  San  Francisco,  and  thus  earn  enough  to  pay 
running  expenses  ;  starting  in  the  summer  or  early  autumn  they  can  reach  San  Fran 
cisco'  iri  season  to  procure  an  outfit,  and  proceed  on  their  cruise  by  March  or  April.  It 
is  only  changing  the  base  of  operation.  Instead  of  the  East  supplying  the  West,  it 
will  be  vice  versa.  The  price  of  fish  shipped  by  steamers  will  be  but  nominally  increased, 
while  we  shall,  as  a  people,  have  the  satisfaction  of  being  independent  of  all  foreign 
powers  for  a  supply  of  one  of  the  great  staples  of  food. 

We  trust  that  the  eastern  fishermen  will  make  up  to  the  importance  of  the  industry 
and  exhibit  that  energy  which  has  always  characterized  New  England,  by  sending  out 
to  Alaska  a  fleet  of  vessels  to  engage  in  this  certainly  lucrative  business.  The  market 
is  the  world.  We  are  on  the  highway  of  the  Eastern  and  Western  hemispheres.  Not 
only  is  the  United  States  to  be  supplied,  but  China  and  Japan,  with  their  millions  of 
people,  stand  ready  to  buy. 

All  hail,  then,  to  the  speedy  inception  of  this  enterprise.  Then  will  not  only  Alaska 
prosper,  and  the  country  in  general  be  benefited,  but  we  shall  feel  proud  that  we  are 
so  opulent  in  our  own  resources  of  strength,  and  have  oil  the  Pacific  coast,  as  well  as 
on  the  Atlantic,  a  brave  set  of  inen  ready  to  man  our  naval  fleets  in  case  hereafter 
there  be  another  insurrection  or  a  foreign  war. 


APPENDIX  H. 

ACT  OF   CONGRESS  REGULATING  THE   INTRODUCTION  OF  LIQUOR,   FIRE-ARMS,   &€.,  INTO 

ALASKA. 

The  law  governing  the  sale  of  spirituous  liquors  is  as  follows : 

"  SEC.  4.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  the  President  shall  have  power  to  restrict  and 
regulate  or  to  prohibit  the  importation  and  use  of  fire-arms,  ammunition,  and  distilled 
spirits  into  and  within  the  said  Territory.  And  the  exportation  of  the  same  from  any 
other  port  or  place  in  the  United  States  when  destined  to  any  port  or  place  in  said 
Territory,  and  all  such  arms,  ammunition,  and  distilled  spirits  exported,  or  attempted 
to  be  exported,  from  any  port  or  place  in  the  United  States  and  destined  for  such  Ter 
ritory,  in  violation  of  any  regulations  that  may  be  prescribed  under  this  section ;  and 
all  such  arms,  ammunition,  and  distilled  spirits  landed  or  attempted  to  be  landed  or 
used  at  any  port  or  place  in  said  Territory,  in  violation  of  said  regulation,  shall  be  for 
feited  ;  and  if  the  value  of  the  same  shall  exceed  four  hundred  dollars  the  vessel  upon 
which  the  same  shall  be  found,  or  from  which  they  shall  have  been  landed,  together 
with  her  tackle,  apparel,  and  furniture,  and  cargo,  shall  be  forfeited;  and  any  such 
person  willfully  violating  such  regulation  shall,  on  conviction,  be  fined  in  any  sum  not 
exceeding  five  hundred  dollars,  or  imprisoned  not  more  than  six  months.  And  bonds 
may  be  required  for  a  faithful  observance  of  such  regulations  from  the  master  or  own 
ers  of  any  vessel  departing  from  any  port  in  the  United  States  having  on  board  fire 
arms,  ammunition,  or  distilled  spirits,  when  such  vessel  is  destined  to  any  place  in 
said  Territory,  or  if  not  so  destined,  when  there  shall  be  reasonable  ground  of  suspicion 
that  such  articles  are  intended  to  be  landed  herein  in  violation  of  law ;  and  similar 
bonds  may  be  required  on  the  landing  of  any  such  articles  in  the  said  Territory  from 
the  person  to  whom  the  same  may  be  consigned." 


APPENDIX  HI. 

* 

LIQUOR  AT   GOVERNMENT  POSTS. 

A  writer  in  the  Washington  Morning  Chronicle,  of  February  6,  says  : 
"Fifteen  miles  from  Simpson  is  the  federal  Fort  Tongas,  situated  on  Portland  Inlet, 
the  dividing  water  between  British  America  and  our  own  Territory,  the  latter  consti 
tuting  the  most  southern  portion  of  Alaska.  At  Tongas  are  stationed  a  company  of 
troops,  who  have  already  had  several  quarrels  with  the  Indians.  The  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  have  never  had  a  soldier  at  one  of  their  posts,  and  up  to  a  very  late  date 
have  had  no  trouble  with  the  Indians.  Mr.  Cunningham  says  he  has  had  considerable 
difficulty  with  some  of  the  Indians  since  the  erection  of  Fort  Tongas,  on  account  of  their 
procuring  liquor  from  the  United  States  troops.  From  Fort  Tongas  to  Fort  Wrangel 
it  is  seventy  miles.  Wrangel  is  also  garrisoned  by  a  company  of  troops,  who  have  had 
serious  difficulties  with  the  Indians  upon  several  occasions.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Stikine  River." 


586        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

APPENDIX  I. 

Summary  of  winds  and  iveather  from  January  1,  1868,  to  August  31,  1869,  at  Sitka,  Alaska 

Territory. 


Months. 

"Warmest  days. 

Coldest  days. 

Amount  of 
rain. 

Number  days 
cloudy. 

Number  days 
fair.  ' 

Number  days 
rain. 

Number  days 
snow. 

1868. 
January  

36 
50 
45 
51 

58 
60 
62 
58 
57 
58 
52 
48 

47 
43 
48 
48 
58 
56 
57 
56 

46 
51 
53 
60 
64 
71 
68 
61 
60 
59 
52 
53 

41 

47 
53 
56 
70 
69 
69 
68 

39 
45 
49 
44 

48 
59 
57 
61 
60 
59 
48 
47 

51 

59 
45 
51 
54 
55 
61 
57 

14 

11 
32 
32 
35 
50 
52 
52 
38 
38 
25 
20 

29 
24 
29 
39 
41 
47 
48 
52 

30 
28 
35 
49 
41 
54 
54 
51 
57 
42 
31 
34 

32 
40 
37 
38 
49 
50 
53 
57 

17 
12 

32 
36 
36 
49 
50 
52 
46 
36 
26 
22 

37 

25 
41 
36 
40 
45 
49 
50 

7.00 
4.35 
5.72 
1.37 
7.55 
1.93 
4.20 
4.01 
6.81 
7.27 
9.38 
6.69 

10.14 
14.  80 
6.30 
8.99 
6.87 
4.99 
3.20 
3.84 

12.33 
20.00 
26.  33 
21.33 
22.  00 
18.33 
28.00 
24.33 
20.00 
27.66 
25.00 
20.00 

18.66 
9.00 
4.66 
8.66 
9.00 
11.  66 
3.00 
6.66 
10.00 
3.33 
5.00 
11.00 

3 

12 
5 
3 
12 
4 
10 
9 
11 
14 
16 
10 

3 

0 
4 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

February 

March  

April 

May.. 

June 

July      

September    

October  

November 

December  

\ 
1869. 
January 

275.  31 

100.  63 

109 

7 

28.66 
24.33 
21.66 
24.33 
25.66 
24.33 
24.66 
22.33 

2.33 
3.66 
9.33 
5.66 
5.33 
5.66 
6.  33 
8.66 

10 
13 
6 

8 
6 
7 
5 
6 

1 
3 
0 
1 
0 
0 
0 
0 

[February  

March 

April  .  . 

May  .  .  . 

June 

July  

Au  "list 

APPENDIX  L. 
General  Davis*  s  account  of  tlie  Kalce  war. 

The  following  is  General  Davis's  account  of  the  same  affair.  He  says  in  his  report 
of  the  5th  of  January  last : 

"  The  Indians  within  the  last  few  days  have  exhibited  some  signs  of  growing  trou 
ble,  but  I  think  I  have  succeeded  in  checkmating  them  in  their  designs,  at  least  for 
the  present.  The  principal  chief  of  the  Chilkahts  has  been  here  for  some  weeks  with  a 
party  on  a  trading  visit.  He  is  a  very  haughty  and  imperious  man,  and  has  been  ac 
customed  to  having  things  his  own  way  heretofore,  wherever  he  went,  both  among 
the  whites  and  Indians.  This  is  his  second  visit  here,  during  both  of  which  he  has 
been  treated  with  kindness  and  consideration ;  but  this  kind  of  treatment  he  seems  to 
have  evidently  misconstrued  into  fear  or  timidity  on  our  part,  and  became  more  imper 
tinent  from  day;  to  day,  until  New  Year's  day,  when  he  and  a  minor  chief  undertook  to 
disarm  the  sentinel  at  the  main  entrance  into  the  Indian  village.  I  ordered  the  guard, 
under  an  officer,  to  follow  him  into  the  village  and  arrest  him  and  his  party.  He  re 
sisted  by  opening  a  fire  upon  the  guard.  The  guard  returned  it,  but  finding  the  In 
dians  too  strong  for  them  retreated  back  into  the  garrison.  As  the  chief  himself  was 
reported  probably  killed  in  the  melee,  and  the  whole  tribe  of  Sitkas,  among  whom  he 
was  staying,  was  thrown  |into  a  great  state  of  excitement,  I  thought  it  prudent  to 
order  a  strong  guard  out  for  the  night,' and  to  take  no,  further  action  until  morning,  as 
the  night  was  very  dark,  thus  giving  them  time  to  reflect. 

"  I  called  the  principal  Sitka  chiefs  together  and  they  disclaimed  any  participation 
in  the  affair,  and  said  they  did  not  desire  to  fight  either  the  troops  or  tlie'Chilkahts,  and 
that  they  had  already  hoisted  white  flags  over  their  cabins.  I  then  demanded  the  sur 
render  of  the  Chilkaht  chief,  who,  after  considerable  delay  and  some  show  of  fight  on 
the  part  of  about  fifty  of  his  warriors,  came  in  and  gave  himself  up.  A  few  minutes' 
talk  with  him  sufficed  to  convince  me  that  he  was  bent  on  war,  and  I  would  have  had 
to  fight  but  for  the  Sitka's  refusing  tojoin  in  his  design.  I  confined  him  and  his  princi 
pal  confederates  in  the  guard-house,  where  he  still  remains.  Cholckeka  is  known  as 
the  most  powerful  and  vindictive  chief  on  this  coast.  Knowing  his  history  and  power, 
I  have  watched  and  treated  him  accordingly.  No  one  tribe  of  the  Indians  in  Alaska 
can  endanger  the  safety  of  the  troops  or  the  citizens  here ;  united,  of  course  it  would  be 
different,  but  we  must  look  out  and  prevent,  if  possible,  such  a  union  of  tribes.  There 


REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       587 

were  two  Indians  killed  in  this  affair ;  one  soldier  was  very  severely  wounded,  but  will 
recover.  The  steamer  Saginaw  arrived  in  due  time  here  and  rendered  all  the  assistance 
which  I  desired.  The  revenue  cutter  Reliance  (which  is  commanded  by  Captain  Heu- 
riques)  was  lying  out  in  the  harbor  at  the  time ;  he  and  his  officers  were  very  prompt 
and  efficient  in  giving  assistance. 

"Thinking  the  general  commanding  would  like  to  learn  all  the  particulars  of  this 
our  first  .difficulty  with  the  Indians  in  this  department,  I  have  gone  more  into  details 
than  would  otherwise  seem  necessary. 

"JEFF.  C.  DAVIS,  Commander." 


APPENDIX  M. 
Letter  from  William  S.  Dodge,  ex-mayor  of  Sitka,  on  affairs  in  Alaska  generally. 

ON  BOAKD  UNITED  STATES  STEAMER  NEWBERN, 

November  10,  1869. 

SIR:  Your  communication  of  the  1st  ultimo,  making  certain  inquiries  of  me,  was  duly 
received,  and  I  will  now  answer  them  in  detail,  so  far  as  I  am  able,  either  from  per 
sonal  knowledge  or  from  information  deemed  by  me  reliable,  received  from  others. 

1.  "  What  is  the  number  of  Indians  in  Alaska,  as  far  I  know  ?" 

Personally,  I  know  nothing  as  to  number  with  certainty.  Prince  D.  Metrooskoff  in 
formed  me,  when  I  first  came  to  Alaska,  that  their  records,  compiled  from  time  to  time, 
place  the  Indian  population  proper  at  about  fifteen  thousand,  covering  the  territory 
from  Portland  Canal  on  the  south  to  Mt.  St.  Elias  on  the  north,  and  embracing  all  the 
Indians  on  the  islands  and  the  coast  of  the  main  land,  as  well  as  the  upper  tribes  of  the 
Stachines,  Chilkaht,  and  Tarken  within  the  borders  of  Alaska.  From  Mt.  St.  Elias  west 
ward  along  the  coast  to  Kollzertra  and  Norton  Sound,  and  thence  up  to  the  Polar  Ocean. 
The  Russian  American  Company  consider  the  people  as  Esquimaux,  with,  of  course, 
various  tribal  differences.  These  people  are  considered  very  numerous,  being  estimated, 
upon  statistics  gathered  as  a  basis,  at  from  fifty  to  sixty  thousand. 

The  islanders  are  considered  as  a  distinct  race  of  people,  purely  Mongolian  in  origin, 
and  are  denominated  Aleutians.  These  people,  including  the  Creole  element,  have  been 
determined  by  actual  census  to  be  between  seven  and  eight  thousand.  All  these  people 
were  considered  by  the  Russian  government  as  civilized,  they  being  for  the  greater  part 
members  of  the  Greek  church,  living  like  civilized  people,  and  all,  or  nearly  all,  being 
able  to  read  and  write  the  Russian  language. 

Of  this  latter  statement  I  have  the  truth,  personally  having  seen  more  than  two 
hundred  of  them  in  my  official  capacity  write,  and  with  a  remarkable  degree  of  nicety 
in  penmanship.  These  distinctions  are  not  recognized  by  the  military  authorities  in 
the  department  of  Alaska  without  distinction.  I  do  not  coincide  with  this  opinion,  and 
deem  it  unjust  as  well  as  unsound. 

As  to  the  "  tribal  names,"  your  second  inquiry,  I  know  very  few,  and  will  not  trouble 
you  with  a  repetition  of  names  which  I  know  you  now  possess. 

3.  Their  general  character  ? 

I  can  speak  generally  from  actual  observation ;  and,  in  brief,  none  of  the  tribes  in 
that  section  of  the  country,  which  I  consider  Indian,  are  at  all  to  be  compared  with 
any  of  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  interior  of  our  country,  or  even  with  those  bordering 
the  great  lakes.  One  peculiar  characteristic  of  the  Alaska  tribes,  such  as  the  Hydahs, 
Stikines,  Sticks,  Kakes,  Kootznov,  and  Sitkas,  is  their  individual  intelligent  inde 
pendence.  It  is  true  they  live  to  a  great  extent  on  fish  and  game,  but  these  are  to  their 
taste,  the  crops  of  grain  and  corn,  &c.,  to  the  former.  For  half  a  century  educated  into 
traders  by  the  Russian  American  and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies,  as  well  as  by  small 
traders,  who  trade  contraband,  they  have  become  keen,  sharp-witted,  and  drive  as  hard 
and  close  a  bargain  as  their  white  brothers,  and  since  the  federal  occupation  of  the 
country  this  feet  is  more  apparent. 

They  are  of  a  very  superior  intelligence,  and  have  rapidly  acquired  many  of  the 
American  ways  of  living  and  working.  Their  houses  are  universally  clustered  into 
villages  very  thoroughly  and  neatly  built,  and  far  more  substantial  and  pretentious 
than  the  log-houses  usually  constructed  by  our  manly  backwoodsmen.  The  Coast 
Indians  do  not  themselves,  and  out  of  their  own  local  resources,  furnish  much  commer 
cially.  The  Sitkas  supply  Sitka  with  its  game,  beets,  and  radishes.  They,  as  well  as 
the  other  coast  tribes,  kill  a  goodly  number  of  the  hair-seal,  selling  to  the  white  traders 
the  peltries  and  the  oil  which  they  extract  from  them.  But  as  a  rule  they  stand  as  the 
immediate  agents  between  the  white  traders  and  the  interior  Indians,  and  in  this 
exhibit  a  jealousy  worthy  the  Jews.  Many  purchase  from  the  whites  hard  bread,  rice, 
shoes,  blankets,  &c.,  and  take  these  together  with  salmon,  which  they  cure  themselves, 
up  the  various  rivers  to  the  interior  tribes,  with  whom  they  in  turn  trade  for  mink, 


588       REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

martin,  lynx,  fox,  bear,  and  other  skins.  Returning  to  the  whites,  these  Indians  again 
exchange  for  articles  of  traffic. 

They  never  allow  the  upper  country  Indians  to  come  to  the  white  settlements  to  trade 
with  the  Chilkahts  and  Tarkens;  death  would  follow  the  attempt.  Hence  is  evinced  a 
monopoly  powerful  and  extensive  in  character.  Nor  will  the  Coast  Indians  permit  any 
white  man  to  pass  to  the  upper  country  to  trade  the  penalty  they  threaten  is  the  same. 
All  trade  must  be  made  with  and  through  them. 

As  to  the  next  inquiry,  "What  means  have  been  undertaken,  if  any,  by  the  military 
or  other  United  States  authority  for  their  improvement  ?"  I  need  say  but  little.  No  sys 
tem  has  as  yet  been  adopted  by  any  of  the  United  States  authorities  tending  to  the 
improvement  of  the  Indian  tribes. 

General  J.  C.  Davis  has  frequently,  in  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  explained  to  the 
chiefs  the  American  ideas  of  justice  and  right,  and  how  practically  they  are  carried 
out,  calling  their  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  good  would  be  protected,  and  the  wrong 
doer  punished,  exemplifying  the  teaching  by  illustrating  it  in  this  way  :  When  a  soldier 
does  wrong  they  would  know  it,  as  he  was  worked  on  the  roads  and  guarded  by  another 
soldier  with  a  bayonet  on  his  gun.  If  a  Russian  did  wrong  they  would  see  he  was  put 
in  prison.  If  an  Indian  did  wrong  he  would  be  punished  the  same. 

The  Indians  for  a  time  observed  this,  and  often  said  the  "  Boston  man"  was  just,  for 
everybody  fared  alike. 

One  day  a  soldier,  Russian,  and  Indian,  all  in  prison  together ;  no  favor  shown ; 
white  man  treated  same  as  Indian.  This  teaching,  faithfully  carried  out,  could  not 
but  have  had  a  beneficial  effect,  and  for  a  time  it  did.  But,  unfortunately,  an  event 
occurred  on  last  New  Year's  day  which  somewhat  shook  their  faith.  The  military  au 
thorities,  following  in  the  footsteps  of  the  Russian  American  Company,  have  from  time 
to  time  continued  to  instill  into  their  minds  a  love  for  labor  and  general  usefulness, 
and  have  encouraged  them  in  it  by  giving  them  contracts  for  wood,  &c. 

General  Davis  did  much  at  one  time  to  induce  the  Sitkas  to  abandon  their  custom 
of  killing  a  slave  to  supply  the  wants  of  a  departed  chief,  an  occasion  of  that  kind 
having  arisen.  I  believe  his  influence  was  sufficient  to  save  the  victim,  although  it 
was  done  by  freeing  the  condemned  slave  and  bringing  him  into  the  town.  We  have 
always  understood  that  no  other  was  killed  in  his  stead. 

Beyond  this,  and  a  few  other  similar  examples  and  counsels,  nothing  has  been  done 
to  ameliorate  or  better  their  condition  up  to  the  present  time.  The  example  set  by 
the  navy  has  never  been  favorable,  but  generally  unfavorable  ;  especially  during  the 
cruise  of  the  Sagiuaw,  under  a  commander  now  dead,  positively  demoralizing. 

The  custom  authorities  never  exercised  any  influence,  either  for  good  or  bad. 

To  your  last  and  most  important  question :  "  What  causes  are  operating  at  the  pres 
ent  time,  or  may  have  been  used  in  the  past,  to  demoralize  them  I"  much  may  be  said. 

As  a  citizen  of  Alaska,  I  feel  a  delicacy  in  writing  upon  this  subject,  inasmuch  as  it 
compels  me  to  tread  upon  unwelcome  ground,  and  may  be  characterized  as  the  prompt 
ings  of  hatred,  jealousy,  and  strife.  However,  as  in  this  question  lies  the  weal  or  woe, 
not  only  of  the  Indian,  but  the  white  race  within  this  Territory,  I  shall  express  clearly, 
impartially,  and  frankly  my  views  of  the  whole  subject  in  all  its  bearings  as  they  have 
been  presented  to  me  by  observation  and  reflection.  And  here  I  am  compelled  to  say 
that  the  conduct  of  certain  military  and  naval  officers  and  soldiers  has  been  bad  and 
demoralizing  in  the  extreme ;  not  only  contaminating  the  Indians,  but  in  fact  demor 
alizing  and  making  the  inhabitants  of  Sitka  what  Dante  characterized  Italy:  "A 
grand  house  of  ill-fame."  I  speak  only  of  things  as  seen  and  felt  at  Sitka. 

First.  The  demoralizing  influence  originated  in  the  fact  that  the  garrison  was  loca 
ted  in  the  heart  of  the  town. 

Secondly.  The  great  mass  of  the  soldiers  were  either  desperate  or  very  immoral  men. 

Thirdly!  Some  of  the  officers  did  not  carry  out  military  discipline  in  that  just  way 
which  the  regulations  contemplate.  They  gave  too  great  license  to  bad  men  ;  and  the 
deepest  evil  to  all,  and  out  of  which  other  great  evils  resulted,  was  an  indiscriminate 
pass  system  at  night.  Many  has  been  the  night  when  soldiers  have  taken  possession 
of  a  Russian  house,  and  frightened  and  browbeaten  the  women  into  compliance  with 
their  lustful  passions. 

Many  is  the  night  I  have  been  called  upon  after  midnight,  by  men  and  women,  Rus 
sian  and  Aleutian,  in  their  night-clothes,  to  protect  them  against  the  malice  of  the 
soldiers.  In  instances  where  the  guilty  party  could  be  recognized  they  have  been 
punished ;  but  generally  they  are  not  recognized,  and  therefore  escape  punishment. 

Fourthly.  The  conduct  of  some  of  the  officers  has  been  so  demoralizing  that  it  was 
next  to  impossible  to  keep  discipline  among  the  soldiers.  Within  six  months  after 
the  arrival  of  the  troops  at  Sitka,  the  medical  director  informed  me  that  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  Sitka  tribe,  some  twelve  hundred  in  number,  were  suffering  from  vcne- 
rial  diseases.  Many  have  died. 

This  has  engendered  a  very  deep  feeling  among  the  Indians  here,  but  the  extent  of 
it  is  only  known  to  those  traders  with  whom  they  can  converse.  Officers  have  carried 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       589 

on  with  the  same  high  hand  among  the  Russian  people,  and  were  the  testimony  of  citi 
zens  to  be  taken,  many  instances  of  real  infamy  and  wrongs  would  come  to  light. 

For  a  long  time  some  of  the  officers  drank  immoderately  of  liquor,  and  it  is  telling 
the  simple  truth  when  I  say  that  one  or  two  of  them  have  been  drunk  for  a  week  at  a 
time.  The  soldiers  saw  this,  the  Indians  saw  it ;  and  as  "  Ayas  Tyhus"  or  "  big  chiefs/' 
as  they  called  the  officers,  drank,  they  thought  that  they  too  must  get  intoxicated. 
Then  came  the  distrust  of  American  j  ustice  when  they  found  themselves  in  the  guard 
house,  but  never  saw  the  officers  in  when  in  a  like  condition. 

ORIGIN  OP  THE   KAKE  WAR. 

The  Kake  war  arose  out  of  a  pure  case  of  drunkenness.    A  soldier  was  on  guard ;  the 

chief  passed  out;  the  soldier  kicked  him  as  he  passed  out.    That  soldier's  name  is ;.-. 

A  little  Russian  girl  told  me  she  saw  the  soldier  kick  the  Indian.  He  was  a  Chilkaht 
chief,  and  it  being  New  Year's  day,  he  had  been  to  General  Davis's  house  and  "potlatched" 
(treated)  to  a  bottle  of  whiskey.  He  naturally  felt  insulted  at  a  kick,  and  resented  it  by 
seizing  the  soldier's  gun.  Trouble  ensued.  Orders  were  given  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  all  Indians  from  the  village,  and  a  demand  was  made  for  the  surrender  of  the  chief. 

They  declared  for  war,  but  the  general  did  not  wish  this,  and  used  commendable 
moderation.  During  the  next  day  after,  a  parley ;  the  chief,  together  with  an  In 
dian  named  Sitka  Jack,  surrendered.  General  Davis  then  issued  an  order  counter 
manding  the  previous  one  of  ne  exeat.  The  post  commandant,  who  was  drunk,  either 
did  not  promulgate  the  order  or  afterward  reissued  the  first  order  on  his  own  respon 
sibility,  I  know  not  which.  Lieutenant  C.  P.  Eagen,  of  the  Ninth  Infantry,  was  that 
day  officer  of  the  guard,  and  can  tell  exactly  which  occurred.  I  think  the  latter  is  the 
truth.  At  all  events,  the  next  morning,  a  canoe  with  some  Indians  started  to  leave 
the  village  to  go  wood-chopping,  and  the  sentry  on  the  wharf  killed  two  of  them. 

They  had  not  been  informed  that  they  could  not  leave  the  village.  The  order  re 
voking  the  ne  exeat  had  been  communicated  by  General  Davis  to  Captain  Mead,  of 
the  United  States  naval  steamer  Saginaw,  and  Captain  Henrique,  of  the  United  States 
revenue  cutter  Reliance  ;  so  they  paid  no  attention  to  the  Indians  until  they  saw  the 
firing  by  the  sentry.  Thinking  the  same  new  trouble  had  arisen,  they  made  chase  for 
the  canoe.  Afterward  the  (Kakes)  Indians  killed  two  white  men  in  retaliation  for 
the  murder  of  the  two  ;  hence  the  war  with  them. 

I  do  not  know  if  the  military  reports  of  General  Davis  detailed  these  facts  as  I  have 
stated  them,  but  I  do  know  that  the  officer  through  whose  culpable  action  two  white 
men  met  their  death  was  never  punished.  He  boasts  u  that  there  is  not  power  enough 
to  dismiss  him  from  the  army,  let  him  do  as  he  likes."  This  is  all  wrong,  and  such 
conduct  is  not  calculated  to  ennoble  any  one,  whether  white  or  Indian. 

It  is  but  justice  to  say,  however,  for  the  last  four  months,  to  my  knowledge,  the  con 
duct  of  officers  has  greatly  improved  in  this  respect.  New  officers  have,  to  a  great  ex 
tent,  supplied  the  places  of  the  old,  and  others,  stinging  under  the  smarting  sensation 
caused  by  articles  which  have  appeared  in  print,  have  reformed,  at  least  outwardly. 

It  is  clearly  of  my  opinion  that  troops  in  Alaska  are  to  a  great  extent  needless.  At 
Sitka  they  should  be  stationed  at  Japanica  Island,  away  from  the  town  and  the  Indian 
villages.  At  Kadiak  and  Kenai  there  is  no  earthly  use  for  them.  At  Tongas  and 
Wrangle  the  causes  of  evil  are  at  work. 

It  seems  to  me  if  troops  are  needed  anywhere  they  should  be  near  Sitka,  and  per 
haps  near  Chilkaht  or  Youkon  ;  but  with  two  good  efficient  gunboats  carrying  out  the 
policy  of  British  Columbia,  punishing  summarily  and  justly  any  outrage  committed 
by  the  Indians,  the  Territory  would  be  far  better  off,  and  the  country,  as  a  whole, 
advanced  in  prosperity.  These  vessels,  too,  could  serve  a  double  purpose  as  well,  sur 
veying  our  island  channels,  bays,  and  harbors ;  thus  would  be  accomplished  a  two-fold 
object,  the  preserving  of  peace  and  promotion  of  science. 

So  far  as  I  know  the  Indians  have  a  keen  sense  of  justice,  and  they  approve  all  their 
actions  by  the  rude  code  which  exists  among  them.    Let  the  policy  of  the  government 
be  such  as  to  insure  this,  and  trouble  will  be  seldom  indeed. 
Very  respectfully, 

WILLIAM  S.  DODGE, 

Late  Mayor  of  Sitka. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER. 

APPENDIX  N. 
Letter  from  Thomas  Murphy  on  citizenship  for  the  Indians, 

KADIAK,  ALASKA  TERRITORY, 

September  27,  1869. 

MY  DEAR  SIR  :  On  last  Thursday  I  made  nine  citizens  in  this  town  of  men  who 
are  known  as  half-breeds,  or,  as  we  call  them,  "  Creoles,"  and  immediately  the  news 


590       KEPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

spread  all  over  the  town,  and  it  was  not  long  before  a  large  number  came  after  me  to 
make  American  citizens  of  them  also,  and  among  the  number  of  applicants  was  an  In 
dian  chief  who  lives  about  one  and  one-half  miles  below  this  place.  He  told  me 
he  had  got  some  considerable  property  well  improved;  and  he  also  told  me  he  wanted 
to  be  made  a  citizen,  because  he  said  he  was  afraid  that  if  he  was  not  a  citizen,  other 
parties  would  come  and  jump  his  ground.  I  iufomed  him  that  as  the  law  was  now  he  could 
not  become  a  citizen,  and  tried  to  convince  him  that  there  would  be  no  danger  of  any 
one  interfering  with  his  property.  This  he  seemed  to  be  very  doubtful  about. 

I  am  told  by  those  who  know  this  chief  in  question,  that  he  is  quite  intelligent,  is  a 
Christian,  as  is  the  case  with  all  Indians  up  as  far  as  Atou  Island,  which  is  the  most 
western  island  in  Alaska.  This  Indian  keeps  his  house  as  clean  as  any  poor  man's 
house  you  can  find  even  in  your  own  State.  True,  their  stock  of  furniture  is  but  limited ; 
still  it  suits  their  immediate  wants,  arid  if  he  were  to  be  made  an  American,  he 
would  be  the  proudest  man  in  the  country.  I  was  sorry  I  could  not  gratify  the  poor 
man;  but  if  I  had  my  say  on  the  subject,  I  would  make  him  a  citizen  by  all  means,  for 
I  am  satisfied  he  would  be  no  disgrace  to  any  American. 

This  is  only  one  case  out  of  thousands  we  have  got  here  in  Alaska,  and  no  doubt 
you  will  bear  me  out  in  what  I  state,  as  it  is  the  truth. 
I  have  the  honor  to  remain,  yours,  respectfully, 

THOS.  G.  MURPHY, 

Editor  of  the  Alaska  Times. 

Mr.  VINCENT  COLYER. 


APPENDIX  O. 
Hon.  William  S.  Dodge  on  citizenship.  . 

Of  the  Aleutian  islanders  and  their  prospective  rights  under  our  government,  Mr. 
Dodge  says :  There  are,  as  statistics  from  the  Russian  records  fully  show,  seven  thousand 
Aleutian  and  three  thousand  creole  population.  But,  say  our  enemies^  "the  Aleutians 
are  Indians,  and  not  entitled  to  citizenship."  Let  us  see : 

The  treaty  of  cession  between  Russia  and  the  United  States  guarantees,  in  article 
third,  that  "  The  inhabitants  of  the  ceded  territory,  according  to  their  choice,  reserving 
their  natural  allegiance,  may  return  to  Russia  within  three  years;  but  if  they  should 
prefer  to  remain  in  the  ceded  territory,  they,  with  the  exception  of  uncivilized  native 
tribes,  shall  be  admitted  to  the  enjoyment  of  all  the  rights,  advantages,  and  immunities 
of  citizens  of  the  United  States,  and  shall  be  maintained  and  protected  in  the  free  enjoy 
ment  of  their  liberty,  property,  and  religion." 

Then  again,  in  the  same  article,  it  says :  "  The  uncivilized  tribes  will  be  subject  to 
such  laws  and  regulations  as  the  United  States  may,  from  time  to  time,  adopt  in  regard 
to  aboriginal  tribes  of  that  country." 

Thus,  in  the  treaty,  it  is  clearly  manifested  that  a  distinction  in  government  was  to 
be  made,  and  it  shows  that  the  Russian  government  observed  jealous  care  in  securing 
to  all  but  the  savages  the  rights -of  American  citizenship. 

And  the  distinction  between  the  civilized  and  uncivilized  is  most  positively  indicated 
in  the  "Russian  memorandum  marked  A,  A,"  draughted  by  Mr.  Seward  at  his  request  of 
August  6,  1867,  by  the  Russian  minister  of  foreign  affairs  at  St.  Petersburg,  August  31, 
1867. 

The  Aleutian  population,  who  are  mostly  inhabitants  of  the  islands  of  Alaska,  are  of 
Asiatic  origin.  The  Asiatic  race  is  always  classed  among  the  civilized  nations.  These 
people  reside  in  towns,  and  live  principally  from  the  products  of  the  fur-seal,  sea-otter, 
and  fox.  They  have  a  language  of  their  own,  but  from  long  association  with  the  em 
ploy  e"s  of  the  Russian-American  Company,  they  nearly  all  talk  the  Russian  tongue. 
They  have  schools  and  churches  of  their  own.  Nearly  all  of  them  read  and  write. 
Around  their  homes,  in  their  churches  and  schools,  are  seen  many,  if  not  all,  the  con 
comitants  of  ordinary  American  homes.  Many  among  them  are  highly  educated,  even 
in  the  classics.  The  administrator  of  the  fur  company  often  reposed  great  confidence 
in  them.  One  of  their  best  physicians  was  an  Aleutian ;  one  of  their  best  navigators 
was  an  Aleutian ;  their  best  traders  and  accountants  were  Aleutians.  Will  it  be  said 
that  such  a  people  are  to  be  deprived  of  the  rights  of  American  citizenship  ?  The  Rev. 
Bishop  of  the  Greco-Russian  church  has  kindly  furnished  me  with  the  information  that 
there  were  in  Alaska,  up  to  January  1,  1869,  12,140  Christians.  During  the  years  of 
1867-'68,  there  were  confirmed  in  the  rites  of  the  church  2,384  men  and  2,191  women, 
making  a  total  of  4,575.  There  were  also  professors  of  the  Greek  faith,  but  not  then 
confirmed  82  men  and  23  women.  The  number  of  professing  children  is  quite  large, 
773  boys  and  716  girls. 


REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS.      591 

APPENDIX  P. 
Letter  from  Captain  C.  W.  Raymond,  U.  S.  A.,  on  the  YouJcon  River  and  tribes. 

BRIG  COMMODORE, 
Unalaska  Harbor,  October  6,  1869. 

DEAR  Sm  :  I  Lave  just  received  yonr  letter  of  this  date,  asking  information  concern 
ing  such  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  Alaska  as  have  fallen  under  my  observation. 

I  arn  compelled  to  write  wholly  from  memory,  as  my  notes  are  inaccessible,  and  I  feel 
that,  under  the  circumstances,  any  information  which  I  may  be  able  to  give  you  will  be 
very  meager  and  imperfect ;  nevertheless,  I  will  attempt  to  answer  your  inquiries. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Kalkurh  Indians  of  Sitka,  and  the  Aleutes  of  Unalaska 
and  the  Seal  Islands,  (tribes  with  whose  customs,  manners,  and  condition  you  are  un 
doubtedly  much  more  conversant  than  myself,)  the  Indians  of  Alaska  who  have  fallen 
under  my  observation  may  be  divided  into  two  classes — the  Indians  of  the  coast  and 
the  Indians  of  the  interior. 

INDIANS   OF  THE   COAST. 

Of  the  first  of  these  classes,  those  concerning  whom  I  can  speak  from  personal  knowl 
edge,  are  all  situated  between  Behring  Straits  and  the  Upper  Aphron,  mouth  of  the 
Kvichpak,  or  Youkou  River. 

The  general  name  of  Malernute  seems  to  be  applied  to  all  the  Indians  on  this  por 
tion  of  the  coast,  but  more  correctly  there  are  several  large  tribes  of  which  the  Male- 
mute  is  one. 

The  principal  tribes  seem  to  be  the  Kaviacks,  the  Malemutes,  the  Unalachlutes,  and 
the  Magamutes. 

The  Kaviacks  inhabit  that  portion  of  the  coast  which  is  situated  between  Behring 
Straits  and  Sound  Galovniu ;  the  Malemutes  are  situated  between  this  sound  and  the 
Unalachlute  River ;  the  Uualachlutes  at  the  mouth  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river  of 
that  name,  and  the  Magamutes  are  found  from  the  Unalachlute  River  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Kvichpak.  These  Indians  are  often  called  after  the  names  of  the  villages  which 
they  inhabit,  but  this  nomenclature  seems  to  be  merely  accidental,  and  has  no  connec 
tion  with  their  condition,  character,  or  habits. 

They  intermingle  with  each  other  to  a  great  extent,  having  been  brought  together,  dur 
ing  many  years,  by  their  trading  interests  at  St.  Michael's,  and  consequently  there  is  a 
great  similarity  in  their  language,  customs,  character,  and  appearance. 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  form  an  estimate  of  the  number  of  their  people,  as  they 
continually  travel  up  and  down  the  coast  and  are  rarely  met  with  in  large  parties. 
A  Russian  trader  of  long  experience  informs  me  that,  in  his  opinion,  they  number  about 
five  thousand.  During  the  winter  these  tribes  live  in  their  villages,  trapping  for  skins 
in  the  vicinity,  and  making  occasional  visits  to  St.  Michael's  for  trading  purposes.  In 
the  summer  they  are  more  scattered,  collecting  stores  of  food  for  winter  use. 

The  Kaviacks  and  Malemutes,  in  their  skin  canoes,  hunt  the  walrus  and  the  hair-seal, 
and  making  then  into  the  villages  between  the  low  Coast  range,  they  kill  the  reindeer 
in  great  numbers. 

The  Unalachluts  during  the  summer  are  engaged  in  fishing  for  the  salmon,  and  the 
Magamutes  seek  the  lower  waters  of  the  Kvichpak  for  the  same  purpose.  This  fish  is 
found  in  these  rivers  in  enormous  quantities. 

Most  of  these  Indians  seem  to  be  vigorous  and  healthy,  and  among  them  are  many  very 
fine  looking  men.  In  these  respects,  the  Kaviacks  and  Malemutes  are  far  superior  to 
the  others,  as  might  be  expected  from  their  more  active  and  hazardous  pursuits.  Never 
theless,  I  found  among  them  many  of  the  diseases  incident  to  reckless  exposure.  Con 
sumption,  colds,  asthma,  and  croup,  were  by  no  means  uncommon  ;  of  the  last  named 
disease  great  numbers  of  their  children  die  yearly. 

The  food  of  these  Indians  consists  of  fish,* fresh  and  dried,  reindeer  meat,  walrus,  and 
seal  meat  and  oil.  In  the  summer  they  trade  in  their  bark  and  skin  canoes,  but  in  the 
winter  their  only  means  of  transportation  is  by  their  dogs  and  sleds.  These  dogs  they 
possess  in  great  numbers,  and  the  necessity  of  providing  dried  fish  for  dog  food  forms 
no  small  addition  to  their  summer  labor. 

Their  villages  contain  from  two  or  three  to  a  dozen  families,  and  consist  of  rude,  low 
houses  built  of  logs  and  slabs,  and  covered  with  earth.  The  door  is  simply  a  small 
round  hole,  placed  near  the  ground,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  enter  except  on  the  hands 
and  knees.  The  fire  is  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  building,  and  the  smoke  makes  way 
through  a  hole  in  the  roof.  Rude  as  these  houses  are,  they  are  nevertheless  tight  and 
warm,  and  on  more  than  one  occasion,  while  making  my  way  through  this  country,  I 
have  been  glad  enough  to  obtain  their  shelter.  Their  winter  houses  are  completely 
under  ground. 

These  Indians  are  very  unclean  in  their  habits,  but  they  are,  nevertheless,  much  supe- 


592        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

rior  in  this  respect  to  the  Kvichpak  Indians,  of  whom  I  shall  speak  hereafter.  Many 
of  their  habits  are  too  disgusting  even  to  mention.  They  have  no  idea  of  comfort,  few 
artificial  wants,  and  consequently  little  industry. 

Such  a  thing  as  virtue  is  unknown  among  their  women.  They  are  all  more  or  less 
acquainted  with  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors,  and  the  northern  tribes  obtain  quan 
tities  of  spirits  from  the  whalers,  and  trade  with  them  along  the  coast ;  but,  as  in  all 
my  experience  I  did  not  observe  a  single  case  of  intoxication,  I  do  not  believe  them 
to  be  intemperate.  Indeed  I  am  often  told  that  they  resold  spirits  to  the  Russians, 
among  whom  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors  was  carried  to  a  great  extent. 

HOSPITALITY. 

Finally,  these  people  are  kind,  peaceable,  generous,  and  hospitable  without  an  excep 
tion.  Their  guests  can  ask  no  favor  which  they  deem  too  great.  The  warmest  bed, 
the  most  comfortable  corner  by  the  fire,  the  largest  dishs  are  always  for  the  stranger,  be 
he  white  man  or  red.  One  day,  while  my  little  party  was  making  a  portage  from  the 
Auvic  River  to  the  coast,  we  came  upon  a  hut  of  a  Malemute  Indian  hunter,  who  had 
made  his  camp  in  one  of  the  numerous  villages.  He  was  very  sick  with  the  inflama- 
tory  rheumatism,  and,  with  his  wife,  was  awaiting  the  coming  of  some  of  his  own  peo 
ple  to  remove  him  to  his  own  village.  We  were  wet,  cold,  tired,  and  entirely  out  of 
provisions,  and  had  eaten  nothing  for  a  day.  He  gave  us  all  we  desired  from  his 
stock  of  reindeer  meat,  and  would  have  crawled  from  his  bed  in  order  to  provide  us 
with  skins  to  sleep  upon,  had  we  permitted  it.  When  we  departed  we  offered  to  pay 
him  for  his  meat,  for  we  had  taken  by  far  the  greatest  portion  of  his  store  ;  but  he 
replied  :  u  No  ;  this  is  a  present.  To-day  you  are  my  guest,  some  other  time  we  will 
buy  and  sell." 

Other  and  equally  beautiful  instances  of  the  untaught  courtesy  of  these  people  I 
would  willingly  enumerate,  if  time  permitted.  The  Indians  all  wear  skin  clothing  both 
in  summer  and"  winter.  The  paxa  is  a  sort  of  long  shirt  of  reindeer  skin,  the  hair  being 
worn  outward  in  dry  weather  and  inward  in  wet.  It  has  a  hood  attached  which  forms 
a  covering  for  the  head,  and  which  is  usually  trimmed  with  the  cacayon  or  wolverine 
skin.  In  the  summer  they  wear  leggins  and  boots  of  reindeer  skin,  with  "  moclock,"  and 
are  made  with  so  much  skill  that  they  are  completely  water-tight. 

The  under  lip  is  usually  perforated  under  the  corners  of  the  mouth,  and  through  these 
holes  pieces  of  bone,  or  bits  of  round  stone,  or  metal  are  inserted.  The  women  tattoo 
their  chins  in  vertical  parallel  lines.  These  and  the  wolverine  trimmings  are  the  only 
attempts  at  ornaments  I  noticed  among  these  people.  The  dress  of  the  women  so  much 
resemble  that  of  the  men  that  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  distinguish  them  from 
each  other,  were  it  not  for  the  tattooing  before  mentioned. 

TRADE. 

Very  little  fish  is  sold  by  these  Indians  ;  their  trade  with  the  whites  consists  almost 
exclusively  of  furs.  The  valuable  skins  that  are  found  in  this  portion  of  Alaska  are, 
as  is  well  known,  those  of  the  marten  or  American  sable,  the  mink,  and  the  beaver.  In 
the  interior  the  black  and  silver  gray  fox  must  be  added  to  this  list. 

I  am  unable  to  state  the  amount  of  trade  with  the  coast  Indians,  but  it  is  small  com 
pared  with  the  trade  in  the  interior.  The  Indians  in  these  parts  of  Alaska  have  no 
idea  of  a  currency.  For  all  skins  they  take  goods  in  exchange.  The  price  depends  upon 
the  quality  of  the  skins,  and  is  very  valuable ;  the  goods  which  are  in  the  most  demand 
among  them  are  useful  articles,  such  as  needles,  buttons,  knives,  kettles,  axes,  guns, 
lead,  powder,  caps,  blankets,  &c. ;  tobacco  and  tea  they  have  learned  from  the  Russians, 
are  also  much  sought  for. 

Concerning  the  influence  of  the  Russians  and  their  church  upon  these  people,  I  shall 
speak  hereafter.  The  tribes  which  I  have  classed  generally  as  Indians  of  the  interior 
are  all  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Kvichpak  or  Youkon  River  and  its  tributaries.  It 
has  been  my  fortune  to  travel  for  a  distance  of  about  fourteen  hundred  miles  upon  the 
waters  of  this  grand  and  magnificent  stream.  The  Indian  tribes  are  so  numerous  and 
varied  in  habits  and  character,  that  I  am  at  a  loss  to  do  the  subject  any  sort  of  justice 
in  this  brief  article. 

INDIANS   OF  THE  LOWER  KVICHPAK. 

The  Indians  inhabiting  that  portion  of  the  river  and  those  tributaries  which  are 
situated  between  Nulato  and  the  mouth  may,  perhaps,  for  a  general  description,  be 
classified  with  sufficient  accuracy  under  the  head  of  the  Indians  of  the  Lower  Kvichpak. 
Nulato  is  a  small  trading  post,  situated  about  six  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Beyond  this  point  the  Russian  influence  and  trade  extends  but  little. 

The  principal  tributaries  which  empty  into  this  part  of  the  river  are  the  Auvic, 
whose  mouth  is  about  two  hundred  miles  below  Nulato,  the  Shagelook,  which  empties 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       593 

into  a  large  slough  of  the  same  name,  about  thirty  miles  above  Auyic  and  Sakaitski, 
which  enters  the  main  river  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  above  the  Auvic. 

The  Indians  of  this  part  of  the  river  rn/iy  be  subdivided  into  two  great  tribes,  the 
Magamutes  or  Prinoski  people,  who  extend  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  within 
about  fifty  miles  of  the  Auvic,  and  the  Ingeletes,  who  inhabit  the  remaining  part  and 
the  tributaries;  All  these  people  much  resemble  the  Magamutes  of  the  coast  in  appear 
ance,  manners,  dress,  and  mode  of  life.  Drawing  their  entire  subsistence,  however, 
with  little  labor  from  the  waters  of  the  great  river,  they  are  much  less  active  and 
energetic  than  the  Coast  Indians.  They  are  cowardly  and  degraded  to  the  lowest 
extent,  and  live  in  constant  dread  of  the  highland  Indians,  who  inhabit  the  higher 
portions  of  the  river.  They  are  filthy  in  the  extreme.  Their  persons  and  houses  reek 
with  grease,  and  swarm  with  vermin.  Nevertheless,  they  are  extremely  honest,  kind, 
good  natured,  hospitable,  and  generous. 

To  the  above  remark  I  must  except  the  Indians  of  the  Shagalook  River.  These 
Indians  I  had  no  opportunity  to  observe  personally,  but  I  am  informed  that  they  are 
a  very  much  superior  race  ;  that  they  are  warlike,  enterprising,  and  intelligent,  and 
that  hunting  is  their  chief  means  of  livelihood.  My  remarks  with  reference  to  trade 
with  the  Coast  Indians  apply  as  well  to  all  these  people. 

The  language  spoken  by  the  Ingeletes  is  totally  different  from  that  of  the  Coast 
Indians,  Prinoski  and  Magamutes,  and  closely  resembles  that  of  the  Kuyakunski,  whom 
I  next  notice.  From  Nulato  to  the  mouth  of  the  Tunana  River,  a  distance  of  about 
three  hundred  miles,  the  Indians  have  been  by  the  Russians  called  by  the  general 
name  of  the  Kuyakinchi.  This  name,  however,  properly  belongs  to  the  tribe  which 
inhabit  the  banks  of  the  Kuyaknk  River,  a  large  tributary,  which  enters  the  Kvichpak 
about  twenty-five  miles  above  Nulato.  These  people  are  more  warlike,  more  treacher 
ous,  in  brief,' more  like  the  traditional  red  man  than  the  Indians  which  I  have  pre 
viously  described.  No  trouble  has  been  experienced  from  them  during  late  years, 
but  in  the  year  1850  they  made  a  descent  upon  the  Russian  trading  post  at  Nulato, 
killed  nearly  all  the  garrison,  and  completely  exterminated  an  inoffensive  tribe  of 
Ingelets,  whose  village  was  near  the  forts.  Among  those  who  lost  their  lives  in  this 
massacre  was  Lieutenant  Barnard,  an  officer  of  the  English  navy,  who  was  engaged  in 
the  search  for  Sir  John  Franklin. 

In  their  habits,  appearance,  and  trade,  these  people  mu6h  resemble  the  Ingeletes. 
They  are,  however,  great  hunters.  At  the  mouth  of  the  great  Tanana  River,  on  -the 
left 'bank  of  the  Youkon,  is  a  large  level  plain,  called  Nuducayette.  This  is  the  trading 
ground  of  the  Tauana  Indians.  The  Tanana  deserve  more  than  a  passing  notice.  It  is 
by  far  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Youkon.  No  white  man,  I  think,  has  yet  ascended 
it,  but  it  is  believed  that,  making  a  large  bend  to  the  eastward,  its  head  waters  lie 
near  those  of  the  great  river ;  at  its  entrance  into  the  Yukon  it  is  at  least  half  a  mile 
wide,  and  its  current  is  tremendous.  The  tribes  on  this  river  must  be  very  numerous ; 
they  assemble  at  Nuducayette  every  spring,  when  they  meet  the  white  traders.  I  esti 
mate  the  entire  yield  of  furs  of  the  Youkon  and  its  tributaries  to  be  about  twenty  thou 
sand  skins  yearly,  and  more  than  a  third  of  these,  I  believe,  come  from  the  banks  of  the 
Tanana. 

Of  these  people  I  know  little.  They  are  a  fine  looking  race,  and  are  said  to  be  active, 
intelligent,  and  enterprising ;  they  are  much  addicted  to  the  use  of  ornaments,  such  as 
beads  and  feathers,  and  their  clothing  consists  almost  entirely  of  tanned  moose  skins. 
These  Indians,  and  the  Indians  of  Fort  Youkon,  are  occasionally  met  with  between  the 
Tanana  and  the  Rumparts,  a  point  where  the  banks  of  the  river  rise  into  mountains, 
and  the  current  becomes  extremely  rapid.  Beyond  this  point  there  are  no  Indians 
until  we  arrive  at  Fort  Youkon. 

TRIBES  AROUND  FORT  YOUKON. 

Fort  Youkon  has  been,  up  to  this  time,  the  most  western  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com 
pany.  The  principal  tribes  which  have  been  accustomed  to  trade  at  this  post  are  the 
Kotch  a  Kotchins,  (or  lowlanders,)  who  live  between  the  Porcupine  and  Youkon  Rivers, 
near  their  junction;  the  Au  Kotchins,  or  Gens-de-fine,  and  the  Tatanchaks,  or  Gens-de- 
wiz,  who  inhabit  the  Upper  Youkon  and  the  Porcupine,  or  Gens-de-ralt,  who  live  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Porcupine,  or  Rat  River.  These  tribes  are  composed  of  the  finest 
Indians  I  have  ever  met.  The  women  are  virtuous,  the  men  are  brave,  intelligent,  and 
enterprising. 

Their  clothing  is  of  moose  skin,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  articles  which  they 
obtain  by  trade.  They  fish  little,  and  are  almost  exclusively  engaged  in  hunting  the 
moose,  which  abound  in  these  parts,  and  in  trapping  for  skins.  In  trading,  they  de 
mand  useful  articles ;  but  beads,  bright-colored  scarfs,  and  other  articles  of  ornament 
are  much  sought.  All  the  dealings  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  with  the  nations  seem 
to  have  been  fair  and  equitable.  The  Indians  are  much  attached  to  this  company,  and 
do  not  look  with  favor  upon  their  departure. 

38  I  A 


594       REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

MORAL  AND  MISSIONARY  EFFORTS. 

Although  well  aware  that  they  were  violating  a  treaty,  the  agents  of  this  company 
have  been  for  a  number  of  years  accustomed  to  trade  as  far  down  the  river  as  Nuclu- 
cayette,  and  have  thus  drawn  great  quantities  of  valuable  skins  from  the  Russian  ter 
ritory.  The  Russian  trade  on  the  lower  part  of  the  river  must  have  been  large  ;  but  it 
was  never  prosecuted  with  that  energy  and  vigor  which  distinguish  the  great  English 
company.  Neither  company  gave  or  sold  ardent  spirits  to  the  Indians.  Toward  Chris 
tianizing  and  civilizing  the  nations  of  northern  Alaska  little  has  been  done.  On  the 
coast,  and  at  different  points  on  the  lower  Kvichpak,  the  Greco-Russian  church  has 
had  for  years  its  establishment  and  its  priests,  but  I  could  see  no  traces  of  a  good  in 
fluence,  beyond  a  few  Indians  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  Russian  company. 

But  if  this  church  has  done  little  toward  Christianizing  this  people,  it  must,  never 
theless,  be  confessed  that  there  is  among  them  a  most  remarkable  absence  of  super 
stition.  They  seem  to  me  to  present  the  astonishing  appearance'  of  a  people  totally 
without  a  worship  and  without  a  God. 

The  Indians  situated  between  the  Nudota  and  the  Ramparts  have  never  been 
brought  under  missionary  influence.  Their  superstitions  are  endless.  Every  tribe  has 
its  "medicine  man,"  but  I  have  never  been  able  to  obtain  any  correct  idea  of  their  be 
liefs  or  worship. 

At  Fort  Youkon  the  case  is  far  different.  Here,  for  some  years  past,  there  has  been 
a  missionary  of  the  Church  of  England.  I  cannot  say  that  much  has  been  accom 
plished  toward  educating  the  natives,  but  to  me  the  effect  of  Gospel  teaching  was 
very  striking.  By  tradition  these  people  seem  to  have  been  a  warlike  and  quarrelsome 
race,  but  of  late  years  they  have  lived  at  peace  with  the  whites  and  among  them 
selves.  The  missionary  preaches  to  them,  and  they  worship  in  the  native  tongue. 
Of  course,  much  of  superstition  mingles  with  their  religion ;  but  the  influence  of  the 
Gospel,  as  far  as  it  has  been  extended,  has  been  for  their  great  good. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  has  ever  pursued  an  enlightened  policy  with  regard  to 
the  encouragement  of  missions  among  the  Indians  with  whom  they  trade.  Now  that 
fhey  are  about  to  withdraw  from  our  Territory,  the  English  mission  will  doubtless  be 
broken  up.  I  cannot  refrain  from  expressing  the  hope  that,  while  American  enterprise 
is  so  rapidly  developing  this  new  country,  American  religion  will  not  permit  its  people 
to  relapse  into  their  original  darkness,  and  allow  a  great  work,  so  well  begun,  to 
cease. 

TRADERS. 

There  are  but  two  companies  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade  to  any  extent  in  northern 
Alaska.  Hutchison,  Kohle  &  Co.,  a  large  firm  of  San  Francisco,  have  a  number  of 
posts  at  various  points  of  the  river,  and  another  large  company,  which  has  no  name, 
but  is  backed  by  one  of  the  wealthiest  capitalists  of  San  Francisco,  is  established 
along  the  river  and  on  the  coast.  This  latter  company  have  already  placed  a  small 
steamboat  on  the  Youkon,  the  first  that  has  ever  traveled  in  these  waters. 

I  regret  that  my  limited  time  compels  me  to  bring  this  letter  to  a  close.     The  subject 
opens  up  as  I  write,  and  I  would  gladly  continue.     But  although  this  outline  sketch  is 
eo  brief  and  imperfect,  I  hope  that  it  may  be  of  some  slight  service  to  the  commission. 
Very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

CHARLES  WALKER  RAYMOND, 

Captain  of  Engineers. 
Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

United  States  Special  Indian  Commissioner. 

Mr.  William  H.  Dall,  in  his  interesting  report  to  the  Commissioner  of  Agriculture, 
1869,  says  of  the  Youkon  territory : 

SURFACE. 

The  character  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Youkon  River  varies  from 
rolling  and  somewhat  rocky  hills,  generally  low,  that  is,  from  five  hundred  to  fif 
teen  hundred  feet,  and  easy  of  ascent,  to  broad  and  marshy  plains,  extending  for 
miles  on  either  side  of  the  river  near  the  mouth.  There  are,  of  course,  no  roads  ex 
cept  an  occasional  trail,  hardly  noticeable  except  to  a  voyageur.  The  Youkon  and  its 
tributaries  form  the  great  highway  of  the  country.  This  stream—the  Missouri,  as  the 
Mackenzie  is  the  Mississippi,  of  the  north«west — is  navigable  in  our  territory  through 
out  for  vessels  drawing  not  over  four  feet  of  water,  and  for  many  hundred  miles  for 
boats  needing  much  more  than  that.  The  smaller  rivers  are  not  so  deep,  but  many  of 
them  may  be  navigable  for  considerable  distances.  There  are  no  high  mountains, 
properly  so  called. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       595 

SOIL. 

The  underlying  rocks  in  great  part  are  azoic,  being  conglomerate,  syenite,  and 
quartzite.  The  south  shore  of  Norton  Sound,  and  portions  of  the  Kaviak  Penin 
sula,  are  basalt  and  lava.  Trachytic  rocks  are  found  at  several  points  on  the  Youkon. 
There  are,  on  the  northeast  shores  of  Norton  Sound,  abundance  of  sandstones',  and 
clay  beds  containing  lignite.  Sandstone  is  abundant  also  on  the  Youkon,  alternating 
with  azoic  rocks.  The  superincumbent  soil  differs  in  different  places.  In  some  locali 
ties  it  is  clayey,  and  in  such  situations  quite  frequently  covered  with  sphagnum, 
which  always  impoverishes  the  soil  immediately  below  it.  In  others  it  is  light  and 
sandy,  and  over  a  large  extent  of  country  it  is  the  richest  alluvial,  composed  of  very 
tine  sand,  mud,  and  vegetable  matter,  brought  down  by  the  river,  and  forming  deposits 
of  indefinite  depth. 

u  In  some  localities  fresh-water  marl  is  found  in  abundance,  and  is  used  for  mortar 
or  plaster,  to  whiten  the  walls  of  log-houses. 

"  The  soil  is  usually  frozen  at  a  depth  of  three  or  four  feet  in  ordinary  situations. 
In  colder  ones  it  remains  icy  to  within  eighteen  inches  of  the  surface.  This  layer  of 
frozen  soil  is  six  or  eight  feet  thick ;  below  that  depth  the  soil  is  destitute  of  ice,  ex 
cept  in  very  unusual  situations. 

"  This  singular  phenomenon  appears  to  be  directly  traceable  to  want  of  drainage, 
combined  with  a  non-conducting  covering  of  moss,  which  prevents  the  soil  from  being 
wanned  by  the  scorching  sun  of  a  boreal  midsummer.  In  places  where  the  soil  is  well 
drained,  and  is  not  covered  with  moss,  as  in  the  large  alluvial  deposits  near  the  Youkon 
mouth,  I  have  noticed  that  the  frozen  layer  is  much  further  below  the  surface,  and  in 
many  places  appeared  to  be  absent.  I  have  no  doubt  that  in  favorable  situations,  by 
draining  and  deep  plowing,  the  ice  could,  in  the  course  of  time,  be  wholly  removed 
from  the  soil. 

"A  singular  phenomenon  on  the  shores  of  Kotzebue  Sound  was  first  observed  by 
Kotzebue  and  Chamisso,  and  is  described  in  the  narrative  of  the  voyage  of  the  Rurik, 
and  afterward  by  Buckland  in  the  appendix  to  the  voyage  of  the  Herald.  This  con 
sisted  of  bluffs  or  high  banks,  (thirty  to  sixty  feet,)  apparently  of  solid  ice,  covered  with 
a  few  feet  of  vegetable  matter  and  earth,  in  which  a  luxuriant  vegetation  was  flour 
ishing. 

"  Kotzebue's  description  of  this  singular  formation  is  highly  colored ;  but  the  main 
facts  were  confirmed  by  Dr.  Buckland  and  his  companions,  who  made  a  careful  exam 
ination  of  the  locality,  "although  Captain  Beechy  had  previously  reported  that  Kotze 
bue  had  been  deceived  by  snow  drifted  against  the  face  of  the  banks  and  remaining, 
while  in  other  localities  it  had  melted  away. 

"  It  is  reported  by  Buckland  and  later  observers  that  the  formation  is  rapidly  disap 
pearing,  and  the  water  in  the  sound  is  becoming  shoaler  every  day,  from  the  fall  of  the 
debris  which  covers  the  ice. 

"  No  explanation  having  been  offered  of  this  singular  phenomenon,  I  venture  to  sug 
gest  that  it  may  be  due  to  essentially  the  same  causes  as  the  subterranean  ice  layer, 
found  over  a  great  part  of  the  Youkon  Territory. 

"  It  is  quite  possible  to  conceive  of  a  locality  depressed,  and  so  deprived  of  drainage, 
that  the  annual  moisture  derived  from  the  rain-fall  and  melting  snow  would  collect 
between  the  impervious  clayey  soil  and  its  sphagnous  covering ;  congeal  during  the 
winter,  and  be  prevented  from  melting  during  the  ensuing  summer  by  that  mossy  cov 
ering,  which  would  thus  be  gradually  raised ;  the  process  annually  repeated  for  an 
indefinite  period  would  form  an  ice  layer  which  might  well  deserve  the  appellation  of 
an  '  ice  cliff/  when  the  encroachments  of  the  sea  should  have  worn  away  its  barriers, 
and  laid  it  open  to  the  action  of  the  elements. 

"  The  lesson  that  the  agriculturalist  may  learn  from  this  curious  formation  is,  that 
a  healthy  and  luxuriant  vegetation  may  exist  in  immediate  vicinity  of  permanent  ice, 
bearing  its  blossoms  and  maturing  its  seed  as  readily  as  in  apparently  more  favored 
situations ;  and  hence  that  a  large  extent  of  northern  territory  long  considered  valueless 
may  yet  furnish  to  the  settler,  trader,  or  fisherman,  if  not  an  abundant  harvest,  at  least 
a  very  acceptable  and  not  inconsiderable  addition  to  his  annual  stock  of  food,  besides 
fish,  venison,  and  game. 

CLIMATE. 

"The  climate  of  the  Youkon  territory  in  the  interior  differs  from  that  of  the 
sea-coast,  even  in  localities  comparatively  adjacent.  That  of  the  coast  is  tempered 
by  the  influence  of  the  vast  body  of  water  contained  in  Behring  Sea,  and  many  south 
ern  currents  bringing  warmer  water  from  the  Pacific,  making  the  winter  climate  ' 
of  the  coast  much  milder  than  that  of  the  country,  even  thirty  miles  into  the  interior. 
The  summers,  on  the  other  hand,  are  colder  than  further  inland,  and  the  quantity  of 
vain  is  greater.  The  following  table  shows  the  annual  temperature  at  St.  Michael's 
Redoubt,  on  the  coast  of  Norton  Sound,  in  latitude  63°  28'  north;  at  the  mission  of  the 


596 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 


Russo-Greek  church,  on  the  Youkou  River,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  its  mouth 
in  latitude  60°  47'  north  ;  at  Nulato,  about  six  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  in  latitude  64°  40'  north,  or  thereabouts ;  and  at  Fort  Youkon,  twelve  hundred 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  about  latitude  67°  10'  north  : 


!  St.  Michael's. 

Mission. 

Nulato.          F't  Youkou. 

Mean  for  spring      

o 
+29  3 

o 
+19.  62 

0                                               0 

_i_29  3                   +14  22 

+53  o 

+  59  32 

+60  0"  '              +59  67 

Mean  for  autumn 

+26  3 

-i  36  05 

+36  0?                +17  3V 

Mean  for  winter  

:         -f  8.  6 

+  0.95 

—  14  0                      23  80 

Mean  for  year 

_j  29  3 

-f26  48 

+27  8     !              +16  92 

"The  mean  temperature  at  Uiialaklik,  on  the  east  shore  of  Norton  Sound,  for  the 
winter  of  1866-'67  was  0.33° ;  but  for  that  of  1667-'68  it  was  only  about  +9°.  The  mean 
annual  temperature  of  the  Youkon  territory  as  a  whole  may  be  roughly  estimated  as 
about  -f-25°.  The  greatest  degree  of  cold  ever  known  in  the  territory  was  seventy  de 
grees  below  zero,  but  such  cold  as  this  is  very  rare,  and  has  little  effect  on  the  vege 
tation  covered  with  eight  or  ten  feet  of  snow.  Running  water  may  be  found  open  on 
all  the  rivers,  and  in  many  springs  throughout  the  year. 

"  The  real  opportunity  for  agriculture  in  a  cold  country  cannot  be  deduced  from  an 
nual  mean  temperatures  alone,  but  is  dependent  on  the  heat  of  the  summer  months 
and  the  duration  of  the  summer. 

"  At  Fort  Youkon  I  have  seen  the  thermometer  at  noon,  not  in  the  direct  rays  of  the 
sun,  standing  at  112°  ;  and  I  was  informed  by  the  commander  of  the  post  that  several 
spirit  thermometers,  graduated  up  to  120°,  had  burst  under  the  scorching  sun  of  the 
arctic  midsummer,  which  can  only  be  thoroughly  appreciated  by  one  who  has  endured 
it.  In  midsummer,  on  the  Upper  Youkon,  the  only  relief  from  the  intense  heat,  under 
which  the  vegetation  attains  an  almost  tropical  luxuriance,  is  the  two  or  three  hours 
while  the  sun  hovers  near  the  northern  horizon,  aiid  the  weary  voyager  in  his  canoe 
blesses  the  transient  coolness  of  the  midnight  air. 

"The  amount  of  rain-fall  cannot  be  correctly  estimated,  from  want  of  data.  At 
Nulato  the  fall  of  snow  from  November  to  April  will  average  eight  feet,  but  often 
reaches  twelve.  It  is  much  less  on  the  seaboard.  Partly  on  this  account,  and  also 
because  it  is  driven  seaward  by  the  winds,  there  is  usually,  even  in  spring,  very  little 
snow  on  the  coasts  near  Norton  Sound. 

"  In  the  interior  there  is  less  wind,  and  the  snow  lies  as  it  falls  among  the  trees. 
Toward  spring  the  small  ravines,  gulleys,  and  bushes  are  wrell  filled  or  covered  up,  and 
transportation  is  easy  and  pleasant  with  a  good  sled  and  team  of  dogs.  The  warm  sun 
at  noon  melts  the  snow  a  little,  forming  a  hard  crust.  Over  this  the  dog-sleds  can  go 
anywhere,  making  from  thirty  to  fifty  miles  a  day,  carrying  full  one  hundred  pounds  to 
a  dog,  and  requiring  for  each  dog  only  one  dry  fish  per  diem,  which  weighs  about  a 
pound  and  a  half,  and  which  you  can  buy  for  two  leaves  of  tobacco.  Seven  dogs  are 
the  usual  number  for  one  team. 

"The  rain-fall,  as  has  previously  been  remarked,  is  much  greater  on  the  coast  than 
in  the  interior.  Four  days  in  a  week  will  be  rainy  in  summer  at  St.  Michael's,  although 
the  months  of  May,  June,  and  part  of  July  ab.ound  in  sunny  weather.  The  last  part 
of  July,  August,  and  most  of  September  are  very  rainy.  October  brings  a  change ;  the 
winds,  usually  from  the  southwest  from  July  to  the  latter  part  of  September,  now  are 
mostly  from  the  north,  and  though  cold,  bring  fine  weather. 

"  The  valley  of  the  Lower  Youkon  is  foggy  in  the  latter  part  of  the  summer,  but  as 
we  go  up  the  river  the  climate  improves,  and  the  short  summer  at  Fort  Youkon  is  dry, 
hot,  and  pleasant,  only  varied  by  an  occasional  shower.  The  great  pests  in  the  spring, 
all  along  the  river,  are  the  mosquitoes,  the  numbers  of  which  are  beyond  belief ;  but 
they  retire  about  the  middle  of  July.  On  the  coast  they  are  not  so  numerous,  but  lin 
ger  until  the  fall. 

INHABITANTS. 

"The  native  inhabitants,  curiously  enough,  are  divided  by  the  same  invisible 
boundary  that  marks  the  vegetation.  All  along  the  treeless  coast  we  find  the  Es 
quimaux  tribes;  passing  a  few  miles  inland  we  come  to  trees  and  Indian  lodges. 
This  holds  good  all  over  the  Youkon  territory.  The  Esquimaux  extend  all  along  the 
coast  and  up  the  principal  rivers  as  far  as  there  are  no  trees.  The  Indians  populate  tho 
interior,  but  seldom  pass  the  boundary  of  the  woods.  In  regard  to  habits,  neither  per 
form,  any  agricultural  labor  whatever,  and  the  only  vegetables,  besides  berries,  used 
for  food,  are  the  roots  of  Hedysarum  Mackenzii,  Polygonum  viviparum,  and  a  species  of 
Archangelica,  and  the  leafstalks  of  a  species  of  Rheum  or  wild  rhubarb. 

"A  great  delicacy  among  the  Esquimaux  is  the  stomach  of  the  reindeer,  distended 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.       597 

with  willow  sprigs,  well  masticated,  and  in  a  half-digested  state.  This  '  gruesome 
mass'  is  dried  for  winter  use ;  when  it  is  mixed  with  melted  suet,  oil,  and  snow,  and 
regarded  by  the  consumers  much  as  we  regard  caviar,  or  any  other  peculiar  dainty.  It 
is,  no  doubt,  a  powerful  antiscorbutic.  The  Russian  settlements  in  the  Youkon  terri 
tory  were  few  in  number.  There  were  four  on  the  Youkon,  one  on  the  Kuskoquim 
River,  two  on  Norton  Sound,  and  one  on  Bristol  Bay.  All  of  these  were  formerly 
provided  with  gardens.  The  number  of  Russians  in  the  territory  at  no  time  exceeded 
forty,  with  double  the  number  of  half-breeds,  assistants,  or  workmen.  They  were  all 
in  the  employ  of  the  Russian- American  Company.  Many  of  them  left  the  country  after 
the  purchase,  but  the  greater  number  remain  in  the  employ  of  different  American  trad 
ing  companies.  The  Russian-born  inhabitants  were  a  very  degraded  class,  almost 
without  exception  convicts  from  Siberia  or  elsewhere.  The  Creoles  or  half-breeds  are 
a  more  intelligent  and  docile  race,  but  lazy,  and  given  to  intoxication  whenever  stim 
ulants  are  within  their  reach. 

"  Natural  productions. — The  first  need  of  traveler,  hunter,  or  settler,  in  any  country, 
is  timber.  With  this  almost  all  parts  of  the  Youkon  territory  are  well  supplied. 
Even  the  treeless  coasts  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  an  exception,  as 
they  are  bountifully  supplied  with  driftwood,  brought  down  by  the  Youkon,  Kusko 
quim,  and  other  rivers,  and  distributed  by  the  waves  and  ocean  currents. 

"The  largest  and  most  valuable  tree  found  in  this  territory  is  the  white  spruce, 
(Abies  alba.)  This  beautiful  conifer  is  found  over  the  whole  country,  but  it  is  largest 
and  most  vigorous  in  the  vicinity  of  running  water.  It  attains  not  unfrequently 
the  height  of  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet,  with  a  diameter  of  over  three  feet  near 
the  butt ;  but  the  more  common  size  is  about  thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  and  about 
eighteen  inches  at  the  butt.  The  wood  of  this  tree  is  straight-grained,  easily  cut, 
white  and  compact,  and  while  very  light,  it  is  also  very  tough,  much  more  so  than 
the  wood  of  the  Oregon  pine,  (Abies  Douglasii.)  For  spars  it  has  no  superior,  but  it  is 
rather  too  slender  for  large  masts.  The  bark  is  used  for  roofing  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  at  Fort  Youkon,  and  the  roots,  properly  prepared,  for 'sewing  their  birch 
canoes  and  dishes,  by  the  Indians.  I  have  seen  log-houses  twenty  years  old,  in  which 
many  of  the  logs  were  quite  sound.  The  unsound  logs  were  said  to  be  those  which  had 
been  used  without  being  seasoned.  These  trees  decrease  in  size  and  grow  more  spar 
ingly  toward  Fort  Youkon,  but  are  still  large  enough  for  most  purposes.  The  unex 
plored  waters  of  the  Tananah  River  bring  down  the  largest  logs  in  the  spring  fresh 
ets.  The  number  which  are  annually  discharged  from  the  mouth  of  the  Youkon  is 
truly  incalculable.  It  supplies  the  shores  of  Behring  Sea,  the  islands,  and  the  Arctic 
coasts ;  logs  of  all  sizes  lie  in  winrows,  where  they  are  thrown  upon  the  shore  by  the 
October  southwesters. 

"  The  wood  is  put  to  manifold  uses  :  houses,  Indian  lodges,  &c.,  are  all  constructed 
of  spruce.  Soft,  fine-grained,  and  easily  cut,  the  Indians  of  the  Lower  Youkon  spend 
their  leisure,  during  the  short  winter  days,  in  carving  dishes,  bowls,  and  other  utensils 
and  ornamenting  them  with  red  oxide  of  iron,  in  patterns,  some  of  which,  though  far 
from  classical,  are  very  neat. 

"  Sleds,  frames  for  skin  boats,  fishing  rods,  &c.,  are  made  by  the  Esquimaux  from 
spruce,  and  all  their  houses  and  casinos,  or  dance-houses,  are  built  of  it.  One  of  these, 
en  Norton  Sound,  about  thirty  by  forty  feet  square,  had  on  each  side  shelves  or  seats 
formed  of  one  plank,  four  inches  thick  and  thirty-eight  inches  wide  at  the  smaller  end. 
These  enormous  planks  took  six  years  to  make,  and  were  cut  out  of  single  logs  with 
small  stone  adzes. 

"  The  next  most  important  tree  is  the  birch,  (Betula  glandulosa.")  This  tree  rarely 
grows  over  eighteen  inches  in  diameter  and  forty  feet  high  ;  on  one  occasion,  however, 
I  saw  a  water-worn  log  about  fifteen  feet  long,  quite  decorticated,  lying  on  the  river 
bank  near  Nuklukahyet,  on  the  Upper  Youkon,  which  was  twenty-four  inches  in  diam 
eter  at  one  end  and  twenty-eight  at  the  other.  This  is  the  only  hardwood  tree  in  the 
Youkon  Territory,  and  is  put  to  a  multiplicity  of  uses.  Everything  needing  a  hard  and 
tough  wood  is  constructed  of  birch.  Sleds,  snow-shoes,  standards  for  the  fish  traps, 
and  frames  of  canoes,  which  are  afterwards  covered  with  its  bark,  sewed  with  spruce 
or  tamarack  (Larix)  roots,  and  the  seams  calked  with  spruce  gum.  The  black  birch  is 
also  found  there,  but  does  not  grow  so  large.  The  soft  new  wood  of  the  birch,  as  well 
as  of  the  poplar,  is  cut  very  fine  and  mingled  with  his  tobacco  by  the  economical  Indian. 
The  squaws  at  certain  periods  wear  birchen  hoops  around  their  necks ;  and  neck-rings 
and  wristlets  of  the  same  wood,  with  fantastic  devices  scratched  upon  them,  are  worn 
as  a  token  of  mourning  for  dead  friends  by  the  Tananah  Indians. 

"  Several  species  of  poplar  (Popnlus  balsamifera  and  Populus  tremnloidcs)  abound,  the 
former  along  the  water-side,  and  the  latter  on  drier  uplands.  The  first-mentioned  species 
grows  to  a  very  large  size.  The  trees  are  frequently  two  or  three  feet  in  diameter  and 
iroin  forty  to  sixty  feet  high.  The  timber  is  of  little  value,  but  the  Indians  make  small 
boards,  for  different  purposes,  out  of  the  soft  wood,  and  use  the  feathery  down  from  the 
catkins  for  making  tinder,  by  rubbing  it  tip  with  powdered  charcoal. 

"  Willows  are  the  inovst  abundant  of  trees.    They  are  of  all  sizes,  from  the  slender 


598        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

variety  on  the  Lower  Youkon,  which  grows  seventy  or  eighty  feet  high  while  only  six 
inches  in  diameter  at  the  butt,  and  with  a  mere  wisp  of  straggling  branches  at  the 
extreme  tip,  to  the  dwarf  willow,  crawling  under  the  moss,  with  a  stem  no  bigger  than 
a  lead  pencil,  and  throwing  up  shoots  a  few  inches  high.  Willows  are  almost  inva 
riably  rotten  at  the  heart,  and  are  only  good  for  fuel.  The  Kutchin  Indians  make  bows 
of  the  wood  to  shoot  ducks  with ;  as  its  elasticity  is  not  injured  by  being  wet.  The 
inner  bark  is  used  for  making  twine  for  nets  and  seines  by  the  Indian  women,  and  the 
Esquimaux  of  Behring  Straits  use  willow  bark  to  color  and  tan  their  dressed  deer 
skins.  It  produces  a  beautiful  red-brown,  somewhat  like  Russian  leather.  The  inner 
bark  or  cambium  of  the  alder  (Alnus  rubra)  is  used  for  the  same  purpose. 

"  The  other  species  rising  to  the  rank  of  trees  in  this  district  are  the  larch,  (Larix 
dahurica  ?),  which  is4found  on  rolling  prairies,  of  small  size  ;  a  small  birch,  (Betula  nana,) 
and  several  alders,  (Alnus  viridis  and  incana,)  a  species  of  Juniper,  (Juniperus,)  and 
numberless  willows,  (Salicce.)  A  species  of  june  (Pinus  cenibra)  has  been  reported  from 
Kotzebue  Sound,  I  cannot  but  think  erroneously,  as  I  saw  no  true  pines  in  the  Territory 
during  a  two  years'  exploration.  The  most  northern  point  touched  by  the  Pinus  con- 
torta,  at  the  junction  of  the  Lewis  and  the  Pelly  Rivers,  at  Fort  Selkirk,  in  latitude 
63°  north,  longitude  137°  west  (approximate.)  The  Hudson's  Bay  men  at  Fort  Youkon 
call  the  white  spruce  "  pine." 

FODDER. 

"  The  treeless  coasts  of  the  Youkon  territory  are  covered,  as  well  as  the  low-lands 
of  the  Youkon,  with  a  most  luxuriant  growth  of  grass  and  flowers.  Among  the 
more  valuable  of  these  grasses  (of  which  some  thirty  species  are  known  to  exist  in 
the  Youkon  territory)  is  the  well  known  Kentucky  bine-grass  (Poa  pratensis,)  which 
grows  luxuriantly  as  far  north  as  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  perhaps  to  Point  Barrow. 

"  The  wood  meadow-grass  (Poa  nemoralis)  is  also  abundant,  and  furnishes  to  cattle 
an  agreeable  and  luxuriant  pasturage. 

"The  blue-joint  grass  ( Calamagrostis  Canadensis)  also  reaches  the  latitude  of  Kotzebue 
Sound,  and  grows  on  the  coast  of  Norton  Sound  with  a  truly  surprising  luxuriance, 
reaching  in  very  favorable  localities  four  or  even  five  feet  in  height,  and  averaging  at 
least  three.  Many  other  grasses  enumerated  in  the  list  of  useful  plants  grow  abun 
dantly,  and  contribute  largely  to  the  whole  amount  of  herbage.  Two  species  of  Elymus 
almost  deceive  the  traveler  with  the  aspect  of  grain  fields,  maturing  a  perceptible  ker 
nel,  which  the  field  mice  lay  up  in  store. 

"The  grasses  are  woven  into  mats,  dishes,  articles  of  clothing  for  summer  use,  such  as 
socks,  mittens,  and  a  sort  of  hats,  by  all  the  Indians,  and  more  especially  by  the  Esqui 
maux. 

"  In  winter  the  dry  grasses,  collected  in  summer  for  the  purpose,  and  neatly  tied  in 
bunches,  are  shaped  to  correspond  with  the  foot,  and  placed  between  the  foot  and  the 
seal-skin  sole  of  the  winter  boots  worn  in  that  country.  There  they  serve  as  a  non 
conductor,  keeping  the  foot  dry  and  warm,  and  protecting  it  from  contusion  to  an  ex 
tent  which  the  much-lauded  moccasins  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  men  never  do.  In  fact,  I 
believe  the  latter  to  be,  without  exception,  the  worst,  most  uncomfortable,  and  least 
durable  covering  for  the  foot  worn  by  mortal  man. 

"  Grain  has  never  been  sown  on  a  large  scale  in  the  Youkon  territory.  Barley,  I  was 
informed,  had  once  or  twice  been  tried  at  Fort  Youkon,  in  small  patches,  and  the  grain 
had  matured,  though  the  straw  was  very  short.  The  experiments  were  never  carried 
any  further,  however,  the  traders  being  obliged  to  devote  all  their  energies  to  the  col 
lection  of  furs.  No  grain  had  ever  been  sown  by  the  Russians  at  any  of  the  posts.  In 
the  fall  of  1867  I  shook  out  an  old  bag,  purchased  from  the  Russians,  which  contained 
a  handful  of  mouse-eaten  grain,  probably  wheat :  the  succeeding  spring,  on  examining 
the  locality,  quite  a  number  of  blades  appeared,  and  when  I  left  Nulato,  June  2d,  they 
were  two  or  three  inches  high,  growing  rapidly.  As  I  did  not  return  I  cannot  say 
what  the  result  was.  Turnips  and  radishes  always  flourished  extremely  well  at  St. 
Michael's,  and  the  same  is  said  of  Nulato  and  Fort  Youkon. 

"  Potatoes  succeeded  at  the  latter  place,  though  the  tubers  were  small.  They  were 
regularly  planted  for  several  years,  until  the  seed  was  lost  by  freezing  during  the  win 
ter.  At  St.  Michael's  they  did  not  do  well.  Salad  was  successful ;  but  cabbages  would 
not  head. 

"  The  white  round  turnips  grown  at  St.  Michael's  were  the  best  I  ever  saw  anywhere, 
and  very  large,  many  of  them  weighing  five  or  six  pounds.  They  were  crisp  and 
sweet,  though  occasionally  a  very  large  one  would  be  hollow-hearted.  The  Russians 
preserved  the  tops  also  in  vinegar  for  winter  use. 

CATTLE. 

"  I  see  no  reason  why  cattle  with  proper  winter  protection  might  not  be  success 
fully  kept  in  most  parts  of  the  Youkon  territory.  Fodder,  as  previously  shown,  is 
abundant.  The  wild  sheep,  moose,  and  reindeer  abound,  and  find  no  want  of  food. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       599 

"  A  bull  and  cow  were  once  sent  to  Fort  Youkon  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
They  did  well  for  some  time,  but  one  day,  while  the  cow  was  grazing  on  the  river 
bank,  the  soil  gave  way,  and  she  was  thrown  down  and  killed.  Due  notice  was  given 
of  the  fact,  but  for  a  year  or  two  the  small  annual  supply  of  butter  in  the  provisions 
for  Fort  Youkon  was  withheld  on  the  ground  of  there  being  "l  cattle"  (to  wit,  the  bull) 
at  that  post.  Finally  the  commander  killed  the  animal,  determined  that  if  he  could 
not  have  butter,  he  would  at  least  have  beef. .  It  will  be  remembered  that  this  point  is 
north  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  and  the  most  northern  point  in  Alaska  inhabited  by  white 
men. 

FRUITS. 

"  There  are,  as  might  be  supposed,  no  tree  fruits  in  the  Youken  territory  suitable 
for  food.  Small  fruits  are  there  in  the  greatest  profusion.  Among  them  may  be 
noted  red  and  black  currants,  gooseberries,  cranberries,  raspberries,  thimbleberries, 
salinonberries,  blueberries,  killikinik  berries,  bearberries,  dewberries,  twinberries,  ser 
vice  or  heathberries,  mossberries,  and  roseberries ;  the  latter,  the  fruit  of  the  Rosa 
tinnamomea,  when  touched  by  the  frost,  form  a  pleasant  addition  to  the  table,  not  be 
ing  dry  and  woolly,  as  in  our  climate,  but  sweet  and  juicy. 

"All  these  berries,  but  especially  the  salmonberry  or  " morosky"  of  the  Russians 
(Rubus  chamaemorus,)  are  excellent  anti-scorbutics.  They  are  preserved  by  the  Esqui 
maux  in  large  wooden  dishes  or  vessels  holding  five  gallons  or  more ;  covered  with 
large  leaves,  they  undergo  a  slight  fermentation,  and  freeze  solid  when  cold  weather 
comes.  In  this  state  they  may  be  kept  indefinitely ;  and  a  more  delicious  dish  than  a 
plateful  of  these  berries,  not  so  thoroughly  melted  as  to  lose  their  coolness,  and 
sprinkled  with  a  little  white  sugar,  it  would 'be  impossible  to  conceive. 

"  The  Russians  also  prepare  a  very  luscious  conserve  from  these  and  other  berries, 
relieving  the  sameness  of  a  diet  of  fish,  bread,  and  tea,  with  the  native  productions  of 
the  country." 


APPENDIX  Q. 
Report  of  L.  A.  Lagrange,  on   Unalaska. 

SIR  :  In  reply  to  your  inquiries  concerning  the  Aleutes  of  Unalaska  and  their  sur 
roundings,  I  will  answer  in  the  order  you  have  presented  them. 

UNALASKA, 

the  most  important  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  is  in  about  latitude  166°  and  longitude  54°. 
Like  the  rest  of  this  group  it  is  of  volcanic  origin.  Its  surface,  devoid  of  trees,  is 
mountainous,  interspersed  with  valleys,  which  I  think,  with  proper  culture,  would 
yield  good  crops  of  roots  and  some  of  the  cereals.  There  are  many  small  lakes  and 
streams  of  sweet  water  in  the  island,  most  of  them  inhabited  by  trout,  and  frequented 
by  wild  fowl ;  and  the  priest  of  the  Russian-Greek  church  told  me  of  a  lake  over  the 
mountains,  about  two  days' journey  from  Iliouliouk,  around  which  the  Aleutes  used  to  find 
amber,  but  he  said  no  one  "had  visited  it  lately,  and  that  the  Russians  collected  and 
sent  away  all  that  had  ever  been  found.  I  have  been  told  that  in  one  arm  of  the  bay 
is  a  bed  of  copper,  but  have  never  been  able  to  locate  it.  This  may  some  day  be  traced 
to  the  shore  and  worked  to  advantage. 

ILALUK, 

the  chief  settlement,  is  situated  on  a  narrow  level  spot  of  land,  which  is  formed  by 
the  bay  or  one  side  and  a  considerable  stream  of  water  on  the  other,  which  empties 
into  the  bay  a  short  distance  below  the  village.  Back  of  the  river  the  hills  rise 
abruptly.  The  village,  mostly  of  sod  houses,  contains  about  three  hundred  native  in 
habitants,  three  stores  or  trading  posts,  and  a  handsome  Greek  church.  The  place  has 
been  visited  several  times  by  earthquakes,  and  one,  a  number  of  years  ago,  destroyed 
a  greater  part  of  the  village,  which  has  been  rebuilt  further  up  the  spit.  The  same 
convulsion  deepened,  or  rather  formed  the  inner  harbor,  which  prior  to  that  time  ex 
isted  only  as  a  shoal,  but  is  now  an  excellent  anchorage  for  vessels  of  every  class. 

STORES, 

three  in  number,  all  find  something  to  do.  Two  of  them,  belonging  respectively  to 
Messrs.  Maylor  and  Bendel,  and  Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.,  have  established  branches  in 
other  settlements  at  different  points  of  the  island.  The  third^  with  a  small  stock  of 
goods,  was  opened  by  the  schooner  General  Harney  in  August  last.  That  of  Taylor 
and  Bendel  was  opened  May,  and  Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.  have  had  a  post  there  since 
1867->68. 


600       REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS. 

AGRICULTURE, 

as  practiced  by  the  Aleutes,  without  any  beasts  of  burden,  is  in  a  small  way  quite  suc 
cessful.  Small  potatoes  are  grown  without  any  care  whatever  except  planting  and 
gathering  them.  The  dirt  is  thrown  up  in  ridges  or  beds  with  shovels,  holes  made 
with  sticks,  potatoes  dropped  in  singly  and  covered  up,  then  left  undisturbed  by  hoe 
or  spade  until  harvest  time.  The  planting  is  done  during  the  latter  part  of  May  and 
the  first  of  June,  and  the  digging  in  September  and  October.  With  a  little  more  care 
turnips  of  a  superior  quality  are  grown.  The  priest  told  me  that  the  former  bishop 
brought  rye  and  barley  to  maturity  near  the  village,  but  that  wheat  would  not  thrive. 
In  the  rich  valleys  before  mentioned  many  grasses  grow  with  a  wild  luxuriance  and  de 
velop  fully,  but,  owing  to  the  mists  which  prevail,  it  would  be  difficult  to  cure  large 
quantities  of  hay  before  the  grasses  were  too  old  and  strong  for  a  prime  article. 

This  difficulty  could  be  easily  overcome,  however,  as  there  is  a  way  of  curing  hay 
with  salt  known  to  farmers. 

The  priest  has  two  cows  and  a  bullock,  and  the  agent  of  Messrs.  Hutchinsou,  Kohl 
&  Co.  a  number  of  sheep  and  swine;  these  animals,  all  in  fine  condition,  provide  fer 
themselves  in  summer,  and  receive  but  little  care  in  winter. 

INDUSTRY   OF  NATIVES. 

The  Aleutes  are  frequently  employed  as  sailors,  and  are  of  great  service  to  vessels 
loading  or  discharging  cargo.  They  work  faithfully  and  intelligently  for  a  moderate 
compensation,  the  current  wages  being  a  dollar  a  day  in  coin. 

The  men  perform  the  outdoor  labor,  leaving  the  women  to  look  after  the  house  and 
children.  The  traders  employ  them  to  prepare  their  furs  for  market.  They  are  uni 
formly  kind,  friendly,  and  honest.  Locks  and  keys,  when  sold  among  them,  are  more 
for  ornament  than  security. 

INTEMPERANCE. 

Like  most  other  Indians,  most  of  them  have  an  appetite  for  ardent  spirits,  and  be 
fore  our  government  prohibited  the  importation  of  liquor  into  the  Territory  great  bar 
gains  in  furs  were  made  with  them  for  all  manner  of  oil  compounds  by  those  who  boast 
of  this  now.  I  do  not  think  they  obtained  any  liquors  from  traders  during  my  resi 
dence  in  Unalaska ;  but  each  "  prasnik  "  or  holiday  many  men  and  women  were  drunk 
from  the  effects  of  quass.  This  quass  is  a  fermented  liquor  made  by  themselves  from 
flour,  sugar,  and  a  kind  of  whortleberry  which  grows  on  every  hillside.  In  winter 
dried  apples  and  raisins  are  used  in  place  of  the  berries.  This  has  a  sour  and,  to  me,  nau 
seating  taste.  Those  who  use  it  drink  it  by  the  quart  and  get  very  drunk,  but  I  am  glad 
to  say  this  intemperance  is  by  no  means  universal,  there  being  many  sober,  steady  men 
among  them.  Having  already  mentioned  prasniks  I  will  here  say  a  word  concerning 
their 

RELIGION. 

All  the  Aleutes,  as  far  as  I  have  seen,  are  devoted  members  of  the  Greek  church. 
Many  of  them  come  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in  their  bidarkas,  or  skin  canoes,  (the  uni 
versal  means  of  transportation,)  to  attend  church  service  on  certain  holidays.  The 
priest  at  Iliouliouk,  an  educated  Aleute,  pays  an  annual  visit  to  all  the  islands  of  the  group, 
and  also  to  those  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George.  In  former  times  these  voyages  were  per 
formed  in  bidarkas,  five  or  six  of  which,  lashed  together  like  a  raft  and  propelled  by 
oar  and  sail,  he  informs  me  made  a  safe  but  not  always  convenient  means  of  convey 
ance.  During  the  remainder  of  the  year  resident  or  "second"  priests  on  the  various 
islands  attend  to  the  pastoral  duties".  Latterly  he  has  paid  his  annual  visits  in  the 
vessels  of  the  Russian- American  Fur  Company,  and  still  later,  in  those  belonging  to 
Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co. 

EDUCATION. 

I  am  not  aware  of  any  effort  being  made  in  Unalaska  in  this  direction  at  present, 
except  in  individual  cases.  The  Russians  had  an  established  system  for  the  education 
of  the  Aleutes,  but  it  has  fallen  into  disuse.  Most  of  them  read  and  write,  (Russian,) 
and  many  are  good  arithmeticians. 

The  Aleutes  generally  learn  very  readily.  One  that  I  employed  as  house  servant  soon 
acquired  enough  English  to  act  as  interpreter  on  many  occasions.  He  also  displayed 
great  skill  in  teaching  me  the  rudiments  of  the  Russian  language.  Give  them  to  un 
derstand  American  institutions,  and  they  are  better  fitted  to  exercise  all  the  rights  of 
American  citizens  than  many  who  are  admitted  daily  to  citizenship. 


REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       601 

FURS. 

The  only  articles  of  commerce  at  present  obtained  in  and  exported  from  Unalaska 
are  the  skins  of  the  sea-otter,  fur-seal,  and  fox.  Foxes,  however,  are  not  very  plenti 
ful,  and  are,  I  believe,  of  the  uniform  races.  They  are  captured  in  winter.  But  few  of 
the  fur-seal  are  taken,  either.  Some  of  them  come  into  the  bay  every  year  during  the 
months  of  October  and  November  and  are  captured.  They  have  no  "rookeries"  or 
landing  places  on  this  island,  and  when  in  the  bay  seem  to  have  lost  their  reckoning 
while  on  their  way  from  St.  Paul  or  St.  George  to  no  one  knows  where.  The  well- 
known  imperial  fur  of  Russia,rthe  sea-otter,  is  the  chief  export  of  Unalaska,  and,  in  fact, 
of  all  the  Aleutian  isiands.  These  animals  are  captured  during  the  summer  and  autumn. 
Hunting  parties  of  from  ten  to  forty  men  go  out  in  bidarkas  and  are  gone  from  three 
to  eight  wrecks.  When  a  party  comes  up  with  an  otter,  if  he  is  not  asleep,  (when  he 
is  killed  at  once,)  they  dispose  of  their  forces  in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  him  under 
water  as  much  as  possible.  This  is  effected  by  throwing  darts  (or  spears)  at  him  every 
time  he  appears  on  the  surface.  These  darts  are  so  arranged  that  the  point  readily 
loosens  from  the  staff,  but  is  still  fast  to  it  by  a  long  strong  cord.  By  this  arrange 
ment  when  the  animal  is  struck  the  staff  acts  as  a  buoy  when  he  dives  and  much  em 
barrasses  his  movements];  when  at  last  he  is  so  worried  as  to  lie  passively  on  the  sur 
face  he  is  dispatched  by  a  stroke  on  the  head  with  a  club.  I  know  of  one  man  of  a 
party  of  twenty  who  returned  from  a  three  weeks'  excursion  with  fifteen  skins,  for 
which  he  received  from  fifteen  to  fifty  dollars  coin  each.  He  was  one  of  their  most 
skillful  hunters,  and  owing  to  the  opposition  in  trade  in  Iliouliouk  his  twenty-one  days' 
work  paid  extremely  well. 

FISHERIES. 

Fish  of  many  kinds  are  abundant,  the  most  important  of  which  are  the  cod  and  sal 
mon,  but  they  have  not  yet  become  an  article  of  commerce. 

The  Aleutes  have  only  been  accustomed  to  labor  under  the  direction  of  white  men, 
and  so  far  the  whites  have  found  the  fur  trade  more  profitable  than  the  fisheries  ;  but 
when  the  fur  trade  begins  to  be  overdone,  and  the  Aleutes  Americanized,  the  fisheries 
are  bound  to  be  developed,  and  to  rival,  if  not  surpass,  those  of  the  Atlantic  coast. 

"  Salmon  are  the  commonest  of  common  food"  with  the  Aleutes.  At  one  draught  of 
the  United  States  revenue  cutter  Lincoln's  seine,  while  she  lay  in  the  harbor  last  June, 
two  thousand  five  hundred  salmon  and  herrings  were  taken.  The  herrings  of  this  place 
are  pronounced  by  judges  to  be  of  a  superior  quality,  but  I  am  told  the  salmon  are 
inferior  to  those  found  in  many  parts  of  the  Territory.  A  party  of  Americans  attempted 
the  cod  fishing  last  summer,  but  owing  to  a  lack  of  proper  appliances,  and  the  great 
distance  of  the/'  banks  "  from  Iliouliouk,  they  abandoned  the  undertaking  when  they 
had  caught  about  two  tons.  The  fish  were  excellent. 

During  the  months  of  June,  July  and  August  whales  of  the  variety  known  as  the 
humpback  come  into  the  harbor  in  great  numbers.  Nine  were  killed  last  summer  by 
the  natives,  in  their  frail  bidarkas,  with  glass  pointed  lances.  These  points  are 
chipped  from  broken  bottles,  and  the  lance  is  made  after  the  manner  of  the  otter  spear, 
though  somewhat  heavier  and  minus  the  cord.  They  pull  close  to  the  whale  and  throw 
the  lance  into  him  with  great  force,  near  his  vitals  ;  the  point  quits  the  staff  as  soon 
as  it  strikes,  and  they  trust  to  the  action  of  the  whale's  muscles  to  drive  it  home. 
One  that  has  been  well  struck  will  (to  use  a  whaleman's  expression)  turn  flukes  in  two 
or  three  days.  Besides  those  killed  by  the  natives  five  more  were  taken  by  a  part  of 
the  crew  of  the  barque  Monticello,  as  she  lay  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  without  a  prac 
tical  whaler  among  them.  Understand  that  certain  parties  in  San  Francisco  intend 
to  put  up  try-works  near  Iliouliouk,  next  summer,  and  make  a  business  of  whale  fishing 
in  the  harbor.  The  enterprise  will  be  a  paying  one. 

HARBOR  COMMERCE. 

Iliouliouk,  with  the  best  harbor  in  Alaska  Territory,  and  its  not  severe  ciimate,  lying 
in  the  direct  route  from  San  Francisco  to  all  the  important  islands,  bays,  and  rivers  of 
the  north,  is  the  true  commercial  centre  of  the  Territory.  The  commodious  harbor, 
sheltered  on  all  sides  by  lofty  mountains,  affords  a  secure  anchorage  to  all  kinds  of 
shipping.  At  one  time  last  summer  eight  vessels  lay  at  anchor,  and  there  was  still 
room  for  twice  as  many  more.  More  custom  house  business  was  done  there  last  sum 
mer  than  all  the  rest  of  the  ports  of  the  Territory  together.  Every  sea  captain  whom 
I  met  there  wondered  that  Sitka,  which  is  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  out  of  the  line  of 
trade,  and  has  no  harbor  at  all,  should  be  preferred  before  Iliouliouk  as  the  port  of 
entry  for  the  new  collection  district. 

With  many  good  wishes  for  the  future  prosperity  of  Iliouliouk  and  its  inhabitants, 
I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully, 

L.   A.  LAGRANGE. 

Hon.  VINCENT  COLYER, 

United  States  Special  Indian  Commissioner. 


602        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS 


THE   ALEUTIAN  ISLANDS. 

Mr.  William  H.  Dall,  in  his  account  of  these  Aleutian  Islands,  says  : 
"  These  islands  are  merely  the  prolongation  of  the  Alaskan  range  of  mountains. 
Many  of  them  contain  volcanic  peaks,  some  still  in  a  state  of  moderate  activity.  Slight 
shocks  of  earthquake  are  common,  but  many  years  ha\>e  elapsed  since  any  material 
damage  was  done  to  life  or  property  by  volcanic  action.  Most  of  the  islands  have  har 
bors,  many  of  them  safe  and  commodious.  The  soil  is  much  of  it  rich,  consisting  of 
vegetable  mold  and  dark-colored  clays,  with  here  and  there  light  calcareous  loam, 
formed  by  the  decomposition  of  tertiary  strata  rich  in  fossils.  In  many  places  the 
growth  of  sphagnum,  indicating  want  of  drainage,  x>revails  over  the  perennial  grasses 
natural  to  the  soil,  but  the  remedy  is  self-evident. 

"  On  some  places  the  soil  is  formed  of  decomposed  volcanic  products,  such  as  ash  and 
pumice.  Much  of  this  is  rich  and  productive. 

"  CLIMATE. 

"  The  climate  of  the  islands  is  moist  and  warm.  The  greatest  cold  recorded  in  five  years 
by  Father  Veniaminof  in  Unalaska  was  zero  of  Fahrenheit.  This  occurred  only  once. 
The  greatest  height  of  the  mercury  was  seventy-seven  degrees  of  Fahrenheit.  The 
following  table  will  show  the  range  of  the  thermometer  and  the  relative  frequence 
of  good  and  bad  weather : 

"  Thermometer. 


Year. 

7  a.  m. 

Ip.  m. 

9  p.  m. 

Extreme 
heat. 

Extreme 
cold. 

Range. 

1830 

35° 

38° 

34° 

77° 

o 

77 

1831  

38 

40 

34 

64 

7 

57 

1832 

39 

42 

38 

77 

7 

70 

1833 

38 

41 

36 

76 

5 

71 

Average  five  years  

37 

40.5 

36 

77 

0 

77 

11  Weather,  average  of  seven  years. 


Jan. 

Feb. 

Mar. 

3 
112 

102 

Apr. 

4 
104 

102 

May 

2 
105 

104 

June 

July 

Aug. 

Sept. 

2 
107 

101 

Oct. 

2 
115 

100 

Xov. 

3 

88 

119 

Dec. 

6 
116 

95 

Total. 

53 

1263 

1235 

Days  all  clear  

11 
111 

95 

9 

86 

103 

6 
95 

102 

0 
118 

99 

5 
106 

106 

Days  half  clear,  half  cloudy  
Days  all  cloundy  or  foggy,  with 
or  without  enow,  rain,  or  hail. 

"  These  observations  were  taken  in  Iliouliouk  by  Rev.  Father  Innocentius  Veniaminof, 
now  or  lately  bishop  of  Kamschatka.  He  notices  that,  from  October  to  April,  the  pre 
valent  winds  are  north  and  west ;  and  from  April  to  October,  south  and  west.  The 
thermometer  is  lowest  in  January  and  March,  the  highest  in  July  and  August.  At  this 
point  it  may  not  be  superfluous  to  insert,  as  a  means  of  comparison,  a  few  statistics  in 
regard  to  a  very  similar  country,  which  has,  however,  been  under  cultivation  for  cen 
turies.  It  will  serve  to  show  what  human  industry  and  careful  application  of  experi 
ence  may  do  with  a  country  colder  and  more  barren  and  nearly  as  rainy  as  the  Aleutian 
and  northern  Sitkan  districts  of  Alaska.  I  refer  to  the  highlands  of  Scotland,  and  the 
Hebrides,  whose  '  Scotch  mists '  have  become  proverbial. 

"Aiton*  has  ascribed  the  more  rainy  and  cold  climate  of  Scotland  to  the  accumula 
tions  of  sphagnum :  '  Thirty-two  and  a  half  ounces  of  dry  moss  soil  will  retain  without 
fluidity  eighteen  ounces  of  water ;  while  thirty-nine  ounces  of  the  richest  garden 
mold  will  only  retain  eighteen  and  a  half  ounces.  Moss  is  also  more  retentive  of  cold 
than  any  other  soil.  Frost  is  often  found  to  continue  in  deep  mosses  (in  Scotland) 
until  after  the  middle  of  summer.  Hence  the  effect  of  mossy  accumulations  in  ren 
dering  the  climate  colder.' 

"  Dr.  Graham,  of  Aberfoyle,  referring  to  the  western  district  of  Scotland,  says  that 
Ayrshire  is  very  moist  and' damp,  with  a  mild  and  temperate  climate. 

"  Renfrewshire  is  visited  with  frequent  and  heavy  rains.  Dumbartonshire  has  the 
same  character.  Argyleshire  is  considered  the  most  rainy  county  of  Scotland. 

" '  The  vapors  of  the  ocean  are  attracted  by  its  lofty  mountains,  and  the  clouds  dis 
charge  themselves  in  torrents  on  the  valleys.'  t  '  The  winters  are  for  the  most  part 
mild  and  temperate,  but  the  summers  are  frequently  rainy  and  cold.  The  climate  of 
the  Zetland  Isles  resembles  in  most  respects  that  of  the  Orkneys.  Though  the  sky  is 
inclement  and  the  air  moist,  it  is  far  from  unhealthy.  The  rain  continues  not  only  for 

*  Treatise  on  Peat-moss,  &c.     See  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  p.  738,  vol.  xvi. 


REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       603 


hours  but  for  days ;  nay,  eveu  for  weeks  if  the  wind  blow  from  the  west,'  &c.     Substi 
tute  Alaska  for  Scotland,  and  the  description  would  be  equally  accurate. 

"  Mean  temperature  of  Inverness* 


Year. 

Winter. 

Spring. 

Summer. 

Fall. 

1821  

47.83 

39.59 

44.93 

55.34 

49.90 

1822 

48.  02 

39.44 

47.22 

57.79 

47  59 

"At  Drymen,  in  Stirlingshire,  the  average  for  fourteen  years  was  two  hundred  and 
five  days,  more  or  less  rainy,  per  annum ;  the  average  on  the  island  of  Unalaska  was 
one  hundred  and  fifty  for  seven  years,  according  to  Veniainiuof.  The  average  rain-fall 
in  Stirlingshire  was  about  forty-three  inches;  in  Unalaska,  was  forty-lour  inches,  (ap 
proximate.) 

"  Let  us  now  examine  the  productions  of  this  country,  so  nearly  agreeing  in  temper 
ature  and  rain-fall  with  what  we  know  of  the  Aleutian  district.  It  may  reasonably 
prove  an  approximate  index  to  what  time  may  bring  to  pass  in  our  new  Territory.! 

"  Agricultural  statistics  of  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  and  islands,  in  1854  and  1866. 


Occupants. 

Bushels  of  wheat. 

Bushels  of  barley. 

Bushels  of  oats. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

Argyle  
Arran 

1,620 
152 
504 
740 
262? 
39  j 
873 
141 

7,315 
4,373 
4,644 

47,  573 

180, 

220,  179 
10,  183 

13,  394 

4,688 
5,607 
37,  814 

393 

233,  018 

8,885 

56,  795 
1,974 
9,549 
93,  100 

5,727 

264,  112 
51,  936 

46,  819 
619 
7,609 
64,  957 

2,  746 

204,  417 
35,  759 

806,  395 
49,  139 

748,  215 
437,  584 

238,  728 

620,  035 
93,  637 

705,  375 
42,  154 
613,  799 
363,  176 

258,  789 

493,  042 
80,136 

Caithness 

Inverness  

Orkney 

Zetland  

Boss  and  Cromarty 

Sutherland  

Total 

4,340 

294,  447 

303,  799 

483,  193 

362,  726 

2,  993,  733 

2,  557,  871 

! 

Bushels  of  rye. 

Bush,  of  beans 
and  peas. 

Cwt.  of  turnips. 

Cwt.  of  potatoes. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

Argyle  

65,144 

7,086 
98,  924 
23,  068 

(  108,  168 

4,604 
1,065 

59,  093 

4,655 
56,  292 
22,  206 

105,  525 

6,167 

2,693 

15,  147 
4,403* 

"2,"  572" 
342 

8,273 

21,  641 
3,525 

"5,"  227" 

84,  907 
6,497 
143,  416 

84,  984 

39,  230 

160,  145 
32,  052 

103,  444 
4,344 
120,  787 
73,  948 

42,  536 

163,  834 

29,  767 

10,  504 
671 
8,310 
6,519 

6,532 

17,  281 
1,540 

26,  412 
1,493 
5,  931 
12,  176 

6,  261 

20,  876 
1,633 

Arran 

Caithness  

__ 

Inverness 

Orkney  

I 

Zetland  

Uoss  and  Cromarty 

21,  834 
114 

52,  339 

Sutherland  

Total  

308,  059 

256,  631 

30,  737 

551,  231 

528,  600 

51,  357 

74,  782 

Acres  of  Swedish 
turnips. 

Acres  of  carrots. 

Acres  of  cabbage. 

Acres  of  flax. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

1854. 

1855. 

Argyle  

2ft 
22 
28 
10 

33 
10 

24 

1 

4 
1 
4 

17 
4 

"a 

4 
1 
1 
4 

23 
7 
10 
35 
30 
6 
9 
3 

28 
5 
9 
26 
35 
7 
5 
2 

26 

9 

2 
1 

15 

15 
3 
1 

^Arran 

Caithness  

Inverness 

17 

2 

Orkney  

Zetland                                i 

Ross  and  Cromarty  
Sutherland  

23 

15 

3 

1 
1 

Total  

111 

77 

433 

33 

123 

117 

49J 

36 

*  Lat.  57°  30'— Kadiak  is  precisely  the  same. 
t  These  statistics  are  official,  from  tha  Transactions  of  the  Highland  and  Agricultural  Society  of 
Scotland,  vol.  xv,  1856. 


604       REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 


Acres  of  grass  and  hay. 

Horses. 

Cows  and 
oxen. 

Sheep. 

. 
Swine. 

1854. 

1855. 

1855. 

1855. 

1855. 

1855. 

Argyle  .  .  . 

36,  151 
3,002 
19,  043 
15,  313 
4.  954 
232 
19,641 
3,936 

40,  303 

2,588 
18,  076 
14,  226 
8,297 
535 
20,  491 
4,446 

8,512 
2,367 
801 
3,485 

}       2,437{ 
4,414 
914 

60,  378 
3,010 
14,  659 
24,  061 
8,128 
1,  250 
16,190 
3,  642 

814,  029 
25,  630 
60,  447 
567,  694 
10,  815 
5,845 
288,  015 
200,  553 

3.458 
360 
1,149 
1,667 
1,337 
50 
4,557 
550 

Arran 

Caithness 

Inverness  .... 

Orkney  .  . 

Zetland 

Ross  and  Cromarty  

Sutherland  
Total  . 

102,  272 

108,  962 

22,  930 

131,  318 

1,  973,  028 

13,128 

"  It  will  be  noted  from  these  statistics  that  the  quantity  of  potatoes  and  also  the 
quantity  of  wheat  is  small,  when  compared  with  the  other  root  crops  or  cereals. 

"The  small  Highland  cattle  are  well  known,  and,  like  the  small  Siberian  stock, 
admirably  suited  to  such  a  climate  and  country.  They  produce  tender,  well-flavored 
beef,  and  extremely  rich  cream  and  butter. 

•"  The  climate  of  Scotland  furnishes  a  very  complete  parallel  with  that  of  the  Aleu 
tian  district  of  Alaska.  The  eastern  coast,  defended  from  the  vapors  of  the  Atlantic 
currents  by  its  sheltering  mountains,  is  much  drier,  and  the  extremes  of  temperature 
are  greater  than  on  the  western  coast  and  the  islands,  resembling  the  eastern  part  of 
Cook's  Inlet  in  this  respect,  and  the  interior  of  Alaska  generally. 

"Veniaminof  states  that  in  Unalaskathe  greatest  number  of  perfectly  clear  days  are 
in  January,  February,  and  June,  and  usually  follow  a  northerly  wind.  The  barometer 
ranges  from  27.415  inches  to  29.437  inches,  and,  oh  the  average,  is  highest  in  December 
and  lowest  in  July ;  rising  with  a  north  and  falling  with  a  south  wind. 

INHABITANTS. 

"  The  inhabitants  of  these  islands  are  the  Aleutes ;  true  Esquimaux  by  descent  but 
altered  by  an  insular  life,  isolated  from  other  tribes,  and  changed  by  long  contact  with 
the  Russians.  They  all  nominally  belong  to  the  Greek  Catholic  faith,  and  practice 
the  rites  of  that  religion.  Many  can  read  and  write  the  ecclesiastical  or  old  Slavonic 
characters,  which  they  have  been  taught  by  the  priests. 

"  They  are  faithful,  docile,  enduring,  hardy,  but  lazy,  phlegmatic,  and  great  drunk 
ards.  They  make  good  sailors  but  poor  farmers,  and  chiefly  occupy  themselves  in  hunt 
ing  and  fishing.  There  are,  perhaps,  in  all,  fifteen  hundred  of  them,  male  and  female  ; 
and  it  can  be  said,  to  their  credit,  that  for  honesty  they  far  surpass  the  majority  of 
civilized  communities. 

VEGETATION. 

"  There  is  no  timber  of  any  kind  larger  than  a  shrub  on  these  islands,  but  there 
does  not  appear  to  be  any  good  reason  why  trees,  if  properly  planted  and  drained, 
should  not  flourish.  A  few  spruces  were,  in  1805,  transplanted  from  Sitka,  or  Kadiak, 
to  Unalaska.  They  lived,  but  were  not  cared  for,  or  the  situation  was  unfavorable, 
as  they  have  increased  very  little  in  size  since  that  time,  according  to  Chamisso. 
The  grasses  in  this  climate,  warmer  than  that  of  the  Youkon  territory  and  drier  than 
the  Sitkan  district,  attain  an  unwonted  luxuriance.  For  example,  Unalaska,*  in  the 
vicinity  of  Captains'  Harbor,  abounds  in  grasses,  with  a  climate  better  adapted  for 
haying  than  that  of  the  coast  of  Oregon.  The  cattle  were  remarkably  fat,  and  the 
beef  very  tender  and  delicate ;  rarely  surpassed  by  any  well-fed  stock.  Milk  was 
abundant.  The  good  and  available  arable  land  lies  chiefly  near  the  coast,  formed  by 
the  meeting  and  mingling  of  the  detritus  from  mountain  and  valley  with  the  sea  sand, 
which  formed  a  remarkably  rich  and  genial  soil,  well  suited  for  g'arden  and  root  crop 
culture.  It  occurs  to  us  that  many  choice  sunny  hillsides  here  would  produce  good 
crops  under  the  thrifty  hand  of  enterprise.  They  are  already  cleared  for  the  plow. 
Where  grainlike  grasses  grow  and  mature  well,  it  seems  fair  to  infer  that  oats  and 
barley  would  thrive,  provided  they  were  fall-sown,  like  the  native  grasses.  This  is 
abundantly  verified  by  reference  to  the  collections.  Several  of  these  grasses  had 
already  (September)  matured  and  cast  their  seed  before  we  arrived,  showing  sufficient 
length  of  season.  Indeed  no  grain  will  yield  more  than  half  a  crop  of  poor  quality, 
(on  the  Pacific  slope,)  when  spring-sown,  whether  north  or  south. 

*  See  report  of  Dr.  A.  Kellogg  on  the  Botany  of  Alaska,  H.  Ex.  Doc.  177,  40th  Congress,  second  ses 
sion,  page  218. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       605 

"  Tlie  Russians  affirm,  with,  confirmation  by  later  visitors,  that  potatoes  are  culti 
vated  in  almost  every  Aleutian  village ;  and  Veniaminof  states  that  at  the  village  in 
Isanotsky  Strait,  they  have  raised  them  and  preserved  the  seed  for  planting,  since  the 
beginning  of  this  century ;  the  inhabitants  of  this  village  by  so  doing  having  escaped 
the  effects  of  several  severe  famines,  which  visited  their  less  provident  and  industrious 
neighbors. 

"Wild  peas  grow  in  great  luxuriance  near  Unalaska  Bay,  and,  according  to  Mr. 
Davidson,  might  be  advantageously  cultivated.  This  species,  the  Lathyrus  maritimus  of 
botanists,  grows  and  flourishes  as  far  north  as  latitude  64°.  The  productions  of  all  the 
islands  to  the  westward  resemble  those  of  Unalaska. 

"  In  September,  says  Dr.  Kellogg,  the  turnips  here  were  large  and  of  excellent  quality ; 
carrots,  parsnips,  and  cabbages  lacked  careful  attention,  but  were  good.  Wild  parsnips 
are  abundant  and  edible  through  all  these  islands. 

"  From  the  reports  of  Dr.  Kellogg  and  others  there  appears  to  be  no  doubt  that  cattle 
can  be  advantageously  kept  in  the  Aleutian  district,  providing  competent  farmers  will 
take  the  matter  in  hand.  Hogs  were  placed  on  one  of  the  islands  near  Chamobour 
Reef  in  1825,  and  fattened  on  the  wild  parsnips  and  other  native  plants,  multiplying 
rapidly.  They  were  afterwards  destroyed." 


APPENDIX  R. 

Report  of  a  board  of  officers  held  at  Sitka,  Alaska,  ~by  virtue  of  the.  following  order,  viz : 

COURT-MARTIAL  TRIAL  OF   JAMES   C.  PARKER   FOR  THE  MURDER  OF  A  CHILKAHT  INDIAN. 

"  Special  Order  No.  22. 

"  HEADQUARTERS  DEPARTMENT  OF  ALASKA, 

"  Sitka,  Alaska  Territory,  April  1,  1869. 

"  A  board  of  officers,  to  consist  of,  first,  Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel  G.  H.  Weeks,  cap 
tain  and  assistant  quartermaster  United  States  Army ;  second,  Brevet  Major  W.  H. 
Bell,  captain  and  commissary  of  subsistence  United  States  Army ;  third,  Captain  G. 
H.  A.  Dimpfel,  storekeeper  United  States  Army,  will  assemble  at  the  post  of  Sitka  at 
11  o'clock  a.  m.  to-morrow,  the  2d  instant,  or  as  soon  thereafter  as  practicable,  for  the 
purpose  of  investigating  the  circumstances  attending  the  shooting  of  a  Chilkaht  Indian 
at  that  post  on  or  about  the  17th  day  of  March  last. 

"  The  board  will  determine,  if  possible,  the  parties  doing  the  shooting,  all  the  cir 
cumstances  which  led  to  the  same,  and  whether  or  not  the  act  was  justifiable. 

"  The  board  will  examine  all  the  witnesses  under  oath,  and  make  a  full  report  in  wri 
ting  to  these  headquarters. 

"  By  command  of  Brevet  Major  General  Davis : 

-    '  "SAMUEL  B.  McINTIRE, 

"  l8t  Limt.  Second  Artillery  and  Brevet  Captain  U.S.  A.,  A.  A.  A.  G." 

SITKA,  ALASKA  TERRITORY, 

April  2,  1869. 

The  board  met  pursuant  to  the  above  order.  Present :  first,  Brevet  Lieutenant  Col 
onel  G.  H.  Weeks,  captain  and  assistant  quartermaster  United  States  Army  ;  second, 
Brevet  Major  W.  H.  Bell,  captain  and  commissary  of  subsistance  United  States  Army  ; 
third,  Captain  G.  H.  A.  Dimpfel,  military  storekeeper  United  States  Army. 

Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel  W.  H.  DENNISON,  commanding  post,  called,  who  having 
heard  the  order  convening  the  board  read,  was  duly  sworn. 

By  the  board : 

Question.  State  your  name,  rank,  and  station. — Answer.  William  H.  Dennison,  brevet 
lieutenant  colonel  United  States  Army,  commanding  post  of  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  Please  state  whether  you  know  anything  of  the  circumstances  connected  with 
the  shooting-  Of  a  Chilkaht  Indian  at  the  post  of  Sitka  on  or  about  the  17th  day  of  March, 
1369.-A.  I  do. 

Q.  Please  state  all  the  circumstances  of  the  case  so  far  as  you  know. — A.  Between 
two  and  three  weeks  ago,  in  the  day,  an  Indian  was  shot  at  this  post.  I  was  in  the 
sutler's  store  at  about  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Mr.  Parker,  who  is  employed  in 
the  store,  came  in  very  much  excited,  and  asked  Mr.  Southan  where  his  rifle  was.  Mr. 
Southan  asked  Mr.  Parker  to  the  purport  as  to  whether  he  had  seen  the  Indian.  Mr. 
Parker  replied  that  he  had.  While  Mr.  Parker  was  looking  around  for  the  rifle  and 
changing  his  shoes,  Mr.  Southan  told  him  two  or  three  times  not  to  take  the  rifle. 


606        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

Some  one  else  sitting  by  the  stove  told  Mr.  Parker  to  take  the  pistol  instead  of  the  rifle. 
Mr.  Parker  said  the  pistol  was  not  sure  enough ;  "Iain  going  to  take  the  rifle  to  bring 
the  Indian  back."  He  took  the  Henry  rifle,  went  out  of  the  front  door,  and  walked  up 
toward  the  Indian  market-house,  and  came  back  in  about  ten  minutes.  Mr.  Southan 
askedhim  if  he  had  gotten  the  Indian.  Mr.  Parker  replied  that  "that  was  a  very  hard 
question  to  ask  a  man."  Sitka  Jack  told  me  during  that  afternoon  that  it  was  a  Chil- 
kaht  that  was  shot. 

Q.  Did  you  hear  the  report  of  the  rifle  ? — A.  I  did  not  hear  the  report  of  the  rifle 
during  the  time  of  Mr.  Parker's  departure  from  the  sutler's  store. 

Q,  Did  you  understand,  from  the  tenor  of  Mr.  Parker's  remarks  and  his  manner  in 
the  store,  that  he  intended  killing  the  Indian,  or  that  he  merely  wished  to  use  the 
Henry  rifle  to  intimidate  the  Indian  with,  so  as  to  cause  him  to  come  back  with  him  ? — 
A.  From  Mr.  Parker's  actions  and  language  I  was  under  the  impression  that  he  would 
shoot  the  Indian  if  he  got  an  opportunity. 

Q.  Do  you  know  what  was  the  original  cause  of  Mr.  Parker's  excitement  and  appa 
rent  animosity  against  the  Indian,  which  it  has  been  said  he  was  after  with  the  Henry 
rifle  ? — A.  The  cause,  as  I  understood  it  at  the  time,  was  the  fact  that  the  Indian  hav 
ing  broken  a  glass  in  the  showcase  at  the  sutler's  store. 

Q.  Did  you  leave  the  store  between  the  time  Mr.  Parker  left  the  store  with  the  Henry 
rifle  and  the  time  he  came  back  and  made  the  reply  to  Mr.  Southan's  question  as  to 
whether  he  (Mr.  Parker)  had  got  the  Indian  or  not  ? — A.  I  did  not. 

Q.  Were  you  in  the  store  when  the  glass  was  broken  in  the  showcase  ? — A.  I  was 
not. 

Q.  Do  you  know  whether  any  one  but  Mr.  Parker  was  after  the  Indian  who  has  been 
reported  to  have  been  shot  ? — A.  None  to  my  knowledge. 

Q.  Did  you  as  commanding  officer  take  action  in  this  case  j  if  any,  what  ? — A.  I  took 
none  more  than  to  investigate  and  satisfy  myself  that  no  soldier  of  my  command  was 
engaged  in  the  shooting. 

Q.  Was  the  case  ever  reported  officially  to  you  ;  if  so,  at  what  time  ? — A.  The  case 
was  never  reported  to  me  officially. 

Mr.  SOUTHAN  was  called,  who  having  heard  the  order  convening  the  court  read,  was 
duly  sworn. 

Question.  State  your  name,  occupation,  and  residence. — Answer.  T.  K.  Southan,  mer 
chant,  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  Please  state  whether  you  know  anything  of  the  circumstances  connected  with 
the  shooting  of  a  Chilkaht  Indian  at  the  post  of  Sitka  on  or  about  the  17th  of  March, 
1869. — A.  I  do  not ;  I  know  nothing  whatever  about  it. 

Q.  Please  state  if  any  damage  was  done  at  your  store,  on  or  about  March  17,  by  an 
Indian  or  Indians ;  what  such  damage  was,  if  any,  and  the  amount  of  the  same. — A. 
About  that  time  I  was  absent  from  the  store,  and  on  coming  in  was  told  that  an  Indian 
in  attempting  to  steal  had  broken  a  showcase ;  the  actual  damage  to  the  showcase 
was  trifling. 

Q.  Was  any  action  taken  by  you  or  any  of  your  employe's  with  a  view  to  punishment 
of  the  Indian  who  did  this  damage? — A.  None  by  myself/ nor  none  by  my  employes, 
with  a  view  to  punishment,  that  I  am  aware  of. 

Q.  Is  there  a  man  in  your  employ  by  the  name  of  Parker  ? — A.  There  is. 

Q.  Did  Mr.  Parker  ask  you  for  your  Henry  rifle  at  any  time  during  the  day  on  the 
17th  of  March  last,  for  the  purpose  of  going  after  an  Indian  with  it  ? — A.  He  did. 

Q.  What  Indian  did  he  say  this  was  ? — A.  He  said  he  was  in  pursuit  of  the  Indian 
who  had  broken  the  showcase. 

Q.  Did  he,  as  you  understood  it,  take  the  rifle  with  him  for  the  purpose  of  punishing 
the  Indian  when  he  found  him,  or  in  order  to  force  him  by  intimidation  to  come  back 
with  him  ? — A.  I  understood  him  to  take  the  rifle  for  self-protection  in  making  the 
arrest,  as  he  would  probably  be  compelled  to  go  to  the  village  to  make  the  arrest. 

Q.  Did  Mr.  Parker  take  the  responsibility  of  making  the  arrest  himself,  or  had  he 
instructions  to  do  so. — A.  He  took  the  responsibility  himself. 

Q.  Do  you  know  that  Mr.  Parker  shot  the  Indian  referred  to? — A.  I  do  not. 

Q.  Were  you  out  of  the  store  from  the  time  you  say  you  came  in  and  were  told 
about  the  showcase,  until  Mr.  Parker  came  back  to  the  store  after  going  away  with 
the  Henry  rifle  ? — A.  I  was  not. 

Q.  Did  Mr.  Parker  tell  you  after  he  came  back,  that  he  had  shot  the  Indian  that  he 
was  after  ? — A.  He  did  not. 

Q.  If  it  was  deemed  proper  to  arrest  this  Indian,  why  was  not  the  military  authority 
called  upon  to  make  the  arrest  ? — A.  I  cannot  answer  the  question.  I  do  not  know. 

Q.  Do  you  recollect  who  were  in  the  store  at  the  time  Mr.  Parker  came  after  the 
rifle  ? — A.  Colonel  Deunison,  and,  I  think,  Charles  Kinkead. 

The  board  adjourned  at  quarter  past  twelve  o'clock  p.  m.,  to  meet  again  at  eleven 
o'clock  a.  m.  to-morrow,  the  3d  instant. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.        607 

SITKA,  ALASKA  TERRITORY, 

April  3,  1869— 11  o'clock  a.  m. 

The  board  met  pursuant  to  adjournment.  Present :  First,  Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel 
G.  H.  Weeks;  captain  and  assistant  quartermaster  United  States  Army;  second,  Brevet 
Major  W.  H.  Bell,  captain  and  commissary  subsistence  United  States  Army;  third, 
Captain  G.  H.  A.  Dimpfel,  military  storekeeper  United  States  Army. 

The  proceedings  of  yesterday  having  been  read,  Private  JOHN  McKENZiE,  Company 
F,  Ninth  Infantry,  called,  and  having  heard  the  order  convening  the  board  read,  was 
duly  sworn. 

Question.  State  your  name,  residence,  and  occupation. — Answer.  John  McKenzie, 
Company  F,  Ninth  United  States  Infantry,  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  Do  you  know  anything  of  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  shooting  of  a 
Chilkaht  Indian  on  or  about  the  17th  of  March,  1869  ? — A.  I  don't  know  anything  more 
than  I  saw  a  man  chasing  an  Indian  with  a  gun. 

Q.  State  all  the  circumstances  of  the  case  so  far  as  you  know. — A.  I  saw  a  man  about 
half  a  month  ago,  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon — James  C.  Parker.  I  saw  him 
chase  the  Indian,  and  heard  him  singing  out  to  the  sentinel  to  stop  him,  and  saw  him 
come  back  and  go  up  stairs,  take  his  rifle  and  go  out ;  where  to  I  don't  know. 

Q.  Which  direction  did  Mr.  Parker  take  when  you  saw  him  go  away  with  his  rifle  ? — 
A.  Back  towards  the  garden. 

Q.  Was  any  one  with  Parker  at  this  time  ? — A.  No,  sir. 

Q.  Where  did  you  next  see  Parker,  and  what  were  you  about  in  the  mean  time  ? — A. 
I  saw  him  about  twenty  minutes  afterward  laying  the  foundation  of  a  kitchen  at  the 
time, 

Q.  Did  you  hear  any  shot  fired  after  you  saw  Mr.  Parker  go  out  with  his  rifle ;  and  if 
so,  in  what  direction  ? — A.  I  heard  a  shot  fired ;  I  thought  it  was  outside  the  stockade 
here. 

Q.  After  hearing  the  shot,  did  you  see  Mr.  Parker  returning  to  the  store,  and  did  you 
hear  him  make  any  remarks  ? — A.  I  saw  him  return  to  the  store ;  I  heard  him  make  no 
remarks. 

Q.  Did  Mr.  Parker  return  to  the  store  from  the  direction  from  which  the  rifle  was 
fired,  and  from  what  yon  could  judge  of  the  distance  from  you  to  where  the  rifle  was 
fired,  did  sufficient  time  elapse  for  Mr.  Parker  to  come  from  there  to  the  store  ? — A. 
Yes,  I  should  judge  so. 

Q.  Did  you  hear  any  expression  of  opinion  from  any  one  as  to  who  shot  the  Indian ; 
and  if  so,  state  who  told  you  of  it  ? — A.  I  first  heard  that  a  soldier,  and  then  heard  that 
J.  C.  Parker  shot  the  Indian,  but  can't  tell  who. 

Q.  Have  your  heard  of  any  one  who  saw  the  shot  fired  that  killed  the  Indian? — A.  I 
have  not. 

Private  JOHN  FERRITER,  Battery  H,  Second  Artillery,  called,  who  having  heard  the 
order  convening  the  board  read,  was  duly  sworn. 

Question.  State  your  name,  rank,  and  station. — Answer.  John  Ferriter,  Battery  H, 
Second  United  States  Artillery,  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  State  whether  you  know  anything  of  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  shoot 
ing  of  a  Chilkaht  Indian  at  the  post  of  Sitka  on  or  about  the  17th  of  March,  1869 ;  and  if 
so,  what  are  they  ? — A.  I  was  sentinel  on  post  over  the  magazine  at  about  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  17th  of  March  last.  While  I  was  walking  my  post  an  Indian 
ran  past  me  toward  the  stockade,  and  Mr.  Parker,  an  employe"  of  the  post  trader  of  the 
post  of  Sitka,  who  was  running  after  the  Indian,  called  to  me  to  stop  the  Indian.  I  called 
to  the  Indian  to  stop,  but  he  ran  on,  when  Mr.  Parker  said  let  him  go.  He  then  went  back 
toward  the  store.  Shortly  after  I  heard  two  shots  fired,  apparently  from  the  opposite 
of  the  stockade,  and  in  a  few  moments  saw  Mr.  Parker  coming  from  that  direction.  I 
asked  him  if  he  had  shot  the  Indian.  He  said,  "  O  no,  that  would  not  do."  I  did  not 
see  Mr.  Parker  go  out  with  the  rifle,  but  saw  him  come  back ;  neither  did  I  hear  any 
one  call  out  after  the  shots.  I  could  not  see  from  my  post  to  where  the  shots  appeared 
to  be  fired. 

ABEL  G.  TRIPP  called,  who  having  heard  the  order  convening  the  board  read,  was 
duly  sworn. 

Question.  State  your  name,  occupation,  and  residence. — Answer.  Abel  G.  Tripp,  car 
penter,  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  State  whether  you  know  anything  of  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  shoot 
ing  of  a  Chilkaht  Indian  at  the  post  of  Sitka  on  or  about  the  17th  of  March,  1869 ;  and  if 
so,  what  are  they  ?— A.  On  or  about  the  17th  of  March  I  was  in  the  sutler's  store ;  was 
shown  the  showcase,  and  was  told  an  Indian  had  just  broken  it  and  run  out.  I  went 
ont,  and  on  returning  toward  the  store,  a  few  minutes  after,  I  saw  Mr.  Parker  going  off 
toward  the  Indian  market  at  a  quick  gait  with  a  gun  on  his  shoulder.  Circumstances 


608        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

led  me  to  think  that  he  was  after  the  Indian.  I  was  anxious  to  see  what  the  result 
would  be,  and  went  into  the  store  to  learn,  about  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  afterward.  I 
asked  him,  "  Jim.  did  you  find  him  ?"  He  said  "  yes."  Said  I,  "  Why  didn't  you  bring  him 
in?"  He  replied  "  he  never  did  bring  one  in."  I  asked  him,  "  What  did  you  do  ?"  He 
said,  "  I  gave  him  a  damned  good  kicking."  That  is  all  I  know  about  the  matter. 

AChilkaht  Indian,  KATWOUSEEK,  the  brother  of  the  Indian  killed  on  or  about  the  17th 
of  March,  1869,  being  called  made  the  following  statement : 

I  heard  shots  fired  and  went  into  the  sutler's  store  to  find  my  brother,  who  I  sup 
posed  might  be  there,  as  I  wanted  to  purchase  something ;  not  finding  him  there,  I 
went  to  the  Indian  village,  where  I  found  my  brother  lying  in  one  of  the  Indian 
houses,  shot.  He  asked  whether  I  had  met  a  man  with  a  red  beard,  and  carrying  a 
rifle  ?  I  said  I  had.  I  met  him  near  the  store  coming  in  with  a  rifle  on  his  shoulder, 
sweating  very  much  and  blowing  as  if  he  had  been  running  or  had  been  exerting  himself 
very  much.  He  said,  that  is  the  man  who  shot  me.  This  man  I  recognized  to  be  the  man 
who  is  in  the  sutler's  store,  Mr.  Parker.  I  never  went  to  the  place  where  my  brother 
was  shot,  as  there  is  a  soldier  on  guard  within  plain  sight,  who  I  was  afraid  might 
shoot  me.  My  brother  said  that  the  shots  were  fired  at  him  in  rear  of  the  Greek  church 
on  the  hill  near  the  stockade,  and  that  he  had  come  there  after  having  been  pursued 
by  Mr.  Parker,  before  he  had  any  gun,  to  rest,  and  as  he  was  sitting  on  some  boards 
resting,  Mr.  Parker  came  around  the  end  of  the  church ;  that  he  started  to  run  and  was 
shot  while  again  attempting  to  escape,  and  was  struck  at  the  first  fire,  the  two  other 
shots  missing.  No  Indians  know  more  than  this,  but  all  of  the  Indians  in  the  village 
know  as  much ;  as  my  brother  told  them  all  about  it  after  he  was  shot.  I  did  not  see 
the  shot  fired  nor  do  I  know  of  any  one  who  did. 

KATEESATIN,  another  Indian,  corroborated  the  statement  of  Katwouseek. 

Dr.  A.  H.  HOFF,  United  States  Army,  called,  who  having  heard  the  order  convening 
the  board  read,  was  duly  sworn. 

Question.  State  your  name,  rank,  and  station. — Answer.  Alexander  H.  Hoff,  captain 
and  assistant  surgeon  United  States  Army,  Sitka,  Alaska  Territory. 

Q.  Was  there  a  Chilkaht  Indian  brought  to  your  hospital  (hospital  of  the  post  of  Sitka) 
wounded  by  gunshot  some  time  in  the  month  of  March  last  f — A.  There  was ;  said  to  be 
a  Chilkaht. 

Q.  State  as  nearly  as  you  can  the  date  of  said  admission  of  Indian.— A.  About  the 
18th  of  the  month  ;  by  reference  I  can  give  you  the  exact  date. 

Q.  Was  this  the  only  Indian  suffering  from  gunshot  wound  admitted  into  the  hospi 
tal  after  the  17th  day  of  March  last  up  to  the  present  time  ?— A.  Yes. 

Q.  Did  this  Indian  express  to  you,  through  any  interpreter,  how  he  was  wounded  I — 
A.  He  did  not. 

Q.  What  became  of  the  wounded  Indian  ? — A.  He  died  on  the  29th  of  March. 

Q.  Did  he  die  from  the  effects  of  the  gunshot  wound  ? — A.  He  did. 

Question.  Do  you  know  if  this  was  the  Indian  said  to  have  been  shot  at  this  post  on 
or  about  March  17th  ? — A.  Yes  ;  I  heard  an  Indian  had  been  shot  at  this  time  and  sup 
posed  this  to  be  the  one. 

Private  ALONZO  RAMSEY,  battery  H,  Second  Artillery,  called,  who,  having  heard  the 
order  convening  the  board  read,  was  duly  sworn. 

Question.  State  your  name,  rank,  and  station. — Answer.  Alonzo  Ramsey,  battery  H, 
Second  Artillery,  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  State  whether  you  know  any  of  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  shoot 
ing  of  a  Chilkaht  Indian  at  the  post  of  Sitka,  on  or  about  the  17th  of  March,  1869 ; 
and  if  so,  what  are  they  ? — A.  Same  day  the  Indian  was  shot,  I  saw  the  Indian  running 
through  the  garden  out  toward  the  magazine.  Parker  was  running  after  him,  or 
appeared  to  be  ;  he  hallooed  to  the  sentinel  at  that  post  to  stop  him.  The  sentinel  did 
not  stop  him,  and  Parker  came  back  to  the  sutler's  store.  The  next  I  saw  of  Parker 
he  was  going  into  the  sutler's  store  ;  the  last  I  saw  Parker  was  outside  the  stockade. 
About  fifteen  minutes  after  he  started  off  from  there  toward  the  lake  ;  he  disappeared 
behind  the  hill  going  in  that  direction ;  a  few  minutes  afterward  I  heard  three  shots 
fired  and  saw  the  smoke. 

Q.  What  called  your  attention  to  Mr.  Parker  outside  of  the  stockade  ? — A.  I  happened 
to  be  looking  over  that  way. 

Q.  Where  were  you  standing  when  you  lost  sight  of  Parker  and  heard  the  shots  ? — 
A.  I  was  standing  just  outside  of  the  fence,  inside  of  Major  Bell's  kitchen. 

Q.  Was  the  smoke  that  you  saw  to  the  right  or  left  of  the  church  ?— A.  To  the  right 
of  the  church. 

Q.  Did  you  suppose  from  the  direction  of  the  smoke  that  Parker  had  discharged  his 
rifle  ?— A.  Yes,  sir. 


REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER   OF   INDIAN  AFFAIRS.       609 

Q.  Did  you  see  Parker  coming  back  to  the  post  trader's  after  you  heard  the  shots 
referred  to  ?  —  A.  No,  sir. 

The  board  adjourned  at  a  quarter  past  four  o'clock  p.  m.,  to  meet  again  on  Monday 
the  5th  instant,  at  half  past  ten  o'clock  a.  m. 

Smu,  ALASKA  TERRITORY, 

April  5,  1869—10.30  o'clock  a.  in. 

The  hoard  met  pursuant  to  adjournment.  Present  :  1st.  Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel 
G.  H.  Weeks,  captain  and  assistant  quartermaster  United  States  Army  ;  2d.  Brevet 
Major  W.  H.  Bell,  captain  and  commissary  subsistence  United  States  Army  ;  3d.  Captain 
G.  H.  A.  Dimpfel,  military  storekeeper  United  States  Army. 

The  proceedings  of  Saturday,  April  3,  1869,  having  been  read,  Mr.  CHARLES  KINKEAD 
called,  who  having  heard  the  order  convening  the  board  read,  was  duly  sworn  : 

Question.  State  your  name,  occupation,  and  residence.  —  Answer.  C.  A.  Kinkead,  mer 
chant,  Sitka,  Alaska. 

Q.  Do  you  know  whether  there  was  a  showcase  broken  by  an  Indian  in  the  sutler's 
store  of  the  post  of  Sitka  on  or  about  the  17th  day  of  March  last  ?  —  A.  I  do. 

Q.  Was  it  in  your  opinion  broken  accidentally,  or  for  the  purpose  of  stealing  from  it  t  — 
A.  It  was  evidently  broken  intentionally,  as  an  iron  bar  was  sticking  in  it,  inserted 
between  the  wood  and  glass,  and  it  must  have  taken  some  time  to  work  at  it  and  break 
it. 

Q.  Do  you  know  if  it  was  done  by  the  Indian  who  was  afterward  shot  on  the  same 
da-y  ?—  A.  No  ;  I  can't  tell  you  that. 
The  investigation  here  closed. 

After  a  careful  examination  of  the  witnesses  who  have  been  called  before  the  board, 
the  board  has  not  been  able  to  determine,  further  than  through  the  inferences  of  cir 
cumstantial  evidence,  who  shot  the  Chilkaht  Indian  referred  to  in  Special  Order  No.  22, 
Headquarters  Department  of  Alaska,  April  1,  1869. 

This  circumstantial  evidence  points  to  an  employe"  of  the  post  trader,  Mr.  Parker,  as 
the  person  who  did  the  shooting  ;  the  breaking  of  a  'showcase  for  the  purpose  of  stealing 
being,  as  far  as  the  board  cau'determne,  the  circumstance  which  led  to  the  shooting, 
and  the  board  is  of  the  opinion  that  if  there  were  no  more  reasons  for  shooting  than 
those  brought  out  in  evidence,  that  the  act  was  not  justifiable. 

GEO.  H.  WEEKS, 

Bvt.  Lieut.  Col  and  Ass't  Quartermaster  U.  S.  A. 
W.  H.  BELL, 

Bvt.  Maj.  and  C.  S.  U.  S.  A. 
GEO.  H.  A.  DIMPFEL, 
Captain  and  M.  S.  K.  U.  S.  A. 

There  being  no  further  business  before  it,  the  board  adjourned  sine  die. 

GEO.  H.  WEEKS, 

Bvt.  Lieut.  Col.  and  Astft  Quartermaster  U.  S.  A. 
W.  H.  BELL, 

Bvt.  Maj.  and  C.  S.  U.  S.  A. 
G.  H.  A.  DIMPFEL, 

Captain  and  M.  S.  K. 


APPENDIX  S. 
UNRELIABILITY  OF  THE  CHARTS  OF  THE  SEAS  OF  ALASKA. 

ON  BOARD  THE  STEAMER  NEWBERN, 

MERRY  ISLAND,  ALASKA  TERRITORY, 

November  1,  1869. 

SIR  :  I  find  you  using  charts  of  three  different  nationalities  for  your  guidance  on  the 
coast  of  Alaska  :  American,  English,  and  Russian. 

Which  of  these  three  is  the  most  reliable  ?    Answer.  The  English,  though  these  are 
taken  from  Vancouver's  survey  and  from  the  Russian  charts. 

I  have  an  American  chart  issued  from  the  Hydrographic  Office  of  Washington,  called 
sheet  No.  2,  published  in  1868,  purporting  to  be  "  from  the  most  recent  British  and 
American  surveys,"  but  I  find  it  to  be  incorrect,  as  for  example  :  in  latitude  59°  26', 
longitude  146°  05'  west,  there  is  an  island  named  "  Mi  ddleton"  on  the  English  Admiralty 
chart  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  published  in  1853,  and  on  the  Russian  chart,  published  in 
1847,  which  is  wholly  omitted  on  the  American  chart  ;  the  island  is  about  ten  miles 
long  and  live  miles  wide,  and  lay  directly  in  our  course  from  an  anchorage  south  of 
Montague  Island  to  Cape  Edgecombe,  Sitka  Harbor.  On  my  recent  voyage  if-  I  had 
39  T  A 


610        REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

had  the  corresponding  sheet,  with  Sitka  on  it,  I  should  have  used  the  American  chart, 
thinking  it  was  published  officially  by  my  government  in  1868  it  was  to  be  relied  on. 
If  I  had  done  so  I  should  have  lost  the  vessel,  as  the  island  lays  low  and  the  night 
was  dark.  \ 

Queston.  Are  the  Russian  or  English  charts  sufficiently  accurate  for  safe  navigation 
in  these  seas  ?  Answer.  They  are  not  as  accurate  as  other  charts  on  well-surveyed 
coasts.  With  caution  they  can  be  used  successfully.  The  English  charts  are  chiefly 
taken  from  Vancouver's  survey  in  1792,  corrected  from  the  Russian  charts. 

W.  FREEMAN,  JR., 

Commanding  U.  S.  Quartermaster  Steamer  Newbern. 
W.  FREEMAN,  JR., 

Captain  U.  S.  Quartermaster  Steamer  Newbern. 


APPENDIX  T. 

THE   RESOURCES  OF  ALASKA, 

The  Hon.  William  S.  Dodge,  ex-mayor  of  Sitka,  said  in  a  recent  speech  delivered  by 
him  at  that  place  :  It  is  a  needless  task  to  detail  or  expatiate  on  the  resources  of  Alaska, 
either  in  its  minerals,  fisheries,  furs,  or  timber.  It  is  enough  to  say  that  the  whole 
Territory  is  one  vast  forest  of  yellow  cedar,  pine,  hemlock,  and  spruce,  the  greatest 
portion  of  largest  growth,  and  almost  everywhere  accessible  for  commercial  purposes. 
The  fur  trade  alone  has  been  for  more  than  half  a  century  a  prolific  source  of  wealth 
to  the  Russian- American  Company,  and  its  importance  is  now  more  than  ever  manifest 
when  we  remember  the  fact  that  upward  of  fifty  vessels  have  been  engaged  in  it  the 
present  year.  And  it  is  still  more  manifest  when  we  recall  the  excitement  which  has 
agitated  the  people  of  San  Francisco,  through  its  board  of  trade,  and  Congress,  in  con 
tentious  which  have  arisen  ont  of  the  protective  legislation  to  be  given  the  fur-seal 
interests  on  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George.  The  commerce  in  this  source  of 
revenue  alone  is  estimated  from  two  hundred  to  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  a  year. 

The  fisheries  are  immense.  Nowhere  on  the  face  of  the  globe  are  they  excelled  in 
number,  variety,  or  quality.  The  fiords  of  Norway,  the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  or  the 
shores  of  Labrador  otter  no  comparison.  Those  great  staples  of  commerce  and  main 
stays  of  subsistence,  the  cod,  the  halibut,  the  salmon,  and  the  herring,  are  on  this  coast 
myriads.  The  fishing  stations  already  established  in  this  Territory,  the  immense  quan 
tities  caught  by  the  Russians  and  the  Indians,  demonstrate  how  abundant  is  the  sal 
mon.  And  lately  additional  testimony  comes  to  us  from  numerous  persons  affirming 
as  solemn  truth  that  at  Cook's  Inlet  the  salmon  average  in  weight  sixty  pounds,  and 
many  of  them  weigh  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds.  From  two  to  four  fill  a  barrel. 
And  Mr.  T.  G.  Murphy  only  last  week  brought  down  from  there  on  the  Newbern  a 
barrel  full,  containing  only  four.  This  must  satisfy  the  most  incredulous. 

San  Francisco,  the  great  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  coast,  imitating  New  York,  has 
become  Argus-eyed  and  Briserian-armed,  and  is  rapidly  drawing  into  itself  the  wealth 
of  this  Territory.  Her  capitalists  are  already  engaged  in  the  ice  and  fur  trades.  This 
present  season  she  has  had  more  than  fifty  fishing  boats  off  Behring  Straits  in  the 
cod  fishery,  and  all  of  them  have  returned  home  or  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  loaded 
down.  So  plenty  are  they  that  three  and  four  are  often  caught  on  one  hook.  The 
halibut  and  the  herring  fisheries  have  not  been  entered  into ;  but  the  testimony  of 
their  prolificness  is  ample,  and  the  statements  made  by  reliable  men  are  astonishing. 
And  speaking  of  the  cod  fisheries,  one  fact  is  important  to  be  remembered.  The  banks 
extending  all  along  the  coast  from  Kadiak  to  Behring  Straits  and  to  the  frozen  ocean  are 
shallow  as  compared  with  those  of  Newfoundland,  the  water  on  the  Alaska  banks  aver 
aging  only  irom  twenty  to  fifty  fathoms,  while  those  of  the  former  average  from  sixty  to 
one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms.  And  here  is  another  fact,  just  reported  to  me,  which 
I  cannot  forbear  mentioning.  At  Kadiak,  Henry  Richard  and  Thomas  Bache,  fishermen, 
caught  alone,  with  hook  and  line,  within  the  last  six  months,  twenty-two  thousand 
cod.  This  statement  is  undeniable,  and  it  speaks  a  volume.  And  now  I  dismiss  this 
branch  of  the  subject,  remarking  merely  that  the  whole  coast  of  Alaska  to  Portland 
Canal  in  the  south  to  the  Polar  Ocean  in  the  north,  embracing,  including  the  islands, 
twenty-six  thousand  miles  of  sea  frontage,  is  one  grand  reservoir  of  fish,  sufficient  to 
employ  thousands  of  men  in  supplying  the  demand  constantly  growing,  and  soon  to 
increase  immensely,  by  the  peopling  of  Washington  Territory,  Oregon,  and  California, 
and  the  embryo  States  now  upbuilding  all  along  the  great  continental  highway,  from 
the  west  to  the  east,  as  well  as  the  Sandwich  Islands,  China,  and  Japan. 

Of  minerals,  I  can  only  say  that,  from  the  earliest  history  of  this  Territory  to  the 
present  day,  the  existence  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  marble  and  coal  has  been  con 
stantly  attested.  We  have  the  undeniable  authority  of  eminent  scientific  officials  and 
the  statements  of  strangers  temporarily  visiting  this  coast. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       611 

Since  the  Territory  has  been  within  American  jurisdiction,  we  have  occular  proof  of 
the  existence  of  all  these  minerals,  and  that,  too,  in  almost  every  part  of  the  country. 
Close  to  Sitka  are  mountains  of  marble,  and  good  specimens  of  cinnabar  have  been 
found  here.  Back  of  Sitka,  at  Kake  and  Kootznov,  are  coal  mines,  no  one  knows  how 
extensive.  At  Tarkow  and  Chilkaht  the  coal  crops  out  in  abundance,  and  to  the  west 
ward  of  Sitka  it  is  the  testimony  of  all  the  traders  that  coal  can  be  found  almost  at 
any  place  one  chooses  to  land. 

Almost  every  week  miners  or  Indians  bring  in  samples  of  gold.  It  has  come  from 
Prince  William's  Land,  the  Stikine,  the  Chilkaht,  the  Tarkow,  and  the  Copper  rivers, 
and  from  Cook's  Inlet  and  Kenery. 

Professor  Davidson,  of  the  Coast  Survey,  while  at  Chilkaht  making  observations  of  the 
eclipse,  on  the  7th  of  last  August,  found  that  the  needle  to  his  compass  pointed  con 
stantly  wrong,  and  soon  learned  the  fact  that  he  was  near  a  mountain  of  iron  some  two 
thousand  feet  high,  which  attracted  the  magnet  wherever  used,  from  its  base  to  sum 
mit.  And  a  further  examination  showed  that  this  mountain  was  only  one  of  a  range 
similar  in  character,  and  extending  fully  thirty  miles ;  and,  as  if  nature  had  anticipated 
its  uses  to  man,  a  coal  mine  was  found  near  by. 

And  so  I  might  continue,  but  I  must  hasten  to  a  close.  Howevei,  before  leaving 
this  portion  of  my  remarks,  I  desire  to  give  you  an  exhibit  of  our  commerce  since  the 
18th  of  October,  1867,  as  furnished  by  the  custom  authorities  at  this  port.  You  will  re 
member  that  it  does  not  by  any  means  give  a  full  statement,  as,  since  the  passage  of  the 
custom  act  of  July  28,  1868,  vessels  bound  to  the  westward  have  been  permitted  to  clear 
direct  from  ports  below,  to  Kadiak,  Cook's  Inlet,  and  Unalaska.  Therefore,  a  traffic 
very  considerable  in  value  is  omitted. 

Number  of  vessels  arrived  from  date  of  cession  to  August  6,  1869. 


From— 

Vessels. 

Tons. 

Victoria 

28 

4  495 

Portland,  Oregon     • 

2 

390 

Port  Town  send                                              * 

2 

48 

San  Francisco        ... 

:?3 

6  726 

Sandwich  Islands  

3 

828 

Asiatic  coast                                                *. 

3 

852 

Total 

71 

13  339 

Number  of  vessels  cleared  from  date  of  cession  to  August  6,  1869. 


For— 

Vessels. 

Tons. 

Victoria,  British  Columbia     ....                                                                          .... 

26 

6,778 

San  Francisco 

25 

8  939 

London   

2 

2,638 

Port  Townsend  

5 

2,170 

Portland,  Oregon 

c> 

391 

Asiatic  coast  

5 

941 

Whaling 

514 

Total  ..                              

67 

22,  371 

Imports,  from  October,  1867,  to  August,  1869,  $34,672  99.  Exports,  same  time,  $582,756  32. 
Furs  exported,  as  near  as  can  be  ascertained,  $450,000. 

The  records  of  the  custom-house  show  that  more  than  three-fourths  of  this  commerce 
transpired  during  the  first  year  of  our  occupation  of  the  country. 


APPENDIX  U. 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  San  Frandsco  on  the  fur-seal  and  other  commercial  interests  in 

Alaska  Territory. 

The  Chamber  met  last  evening  in  their  room  in  the  Merchants'  Exchange  building. 

President  Otis  in  the  chair.  , 

Mr.  Wise,  chairman  of  the  Committee  on  the  Alaska  Fur  Trade,  reported  as  follows  : 
"  The  committee  appointed  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  on  the  17th  of  February,  1869, 

to  consider  what  legislation  by  Congress  is  necessary  to  protect  the  fur-seal  trade  of  the 


612        REPORT    OP    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

islands  within  the  Territory  of  Alaska,  have  had  the  same  under  consideration,  and  beg 
leave  to  submit  the  following  report : 

"  Your  committee  find  that  the  Russian-American  Fur  Company  reported  to  have  taken, 
during  the  years  1866  and  1867,  from  the  islands  of  Unalaska,  Omega,  St.  Michael, 
Atkha,  Alton,  Kadiak,  and  Cook's  Inlet,  7,970  muskrats,  558  lynx,  6,738  martens,  226 
bears,  18,476  beavers,  6,738  foxes,  2,765  land  otters,  and  3,905  sea-otters,  which  we  havo 
valued  at  $350,000.  They  took  from  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  arid  St.  George  137,943  fur- 
seals  and  3,657  foxes,  which  we  have  also  valued  at  $900,000,  based  upon  the  admission 
of  those  who  are  largely  interested  in  the  fur  trade,  and  upon  the  recent  sales  in  the 
European  markets.  We  find,  then,  the  total  value  of  the  furs  taken  by  the  Russian- 
American  Fur  Company  from  the  islands  named  during  the  years  1866  and  1867  to  bo 
$1,250,000,  an  annual  average  of  $625,000 ;  besides,  the  seal  oil,  in  the  opinion  of  your 
committee,  is  worth,  at  the  very  lowest  estimate,  $75,000  per  annum  after  leaving  seals 
enough  to  supply  food  for  the  natives,  to  say  nothing  aboiit  the  very  rich  fertilizing 
deposits  from  the  decomposed  bones  and  flesh  of  the  seals  for  more  than  forty  years. 

"We  have  been  informed  by  more  disinterested  testimony  that  these  furs  are  worth 
more  money,  but  wo  have  been  guided  by  those  who  are  interested,  and  you  will  ob 
serve  that,  under  the  most  favorable  aspect,  this  is  a  very  important  trade,  which  can 
doubtless  bo  increased  under  American  enterprise  and  fair  competition  without  dimin 
ishing  the  number  of  the  fur-bearing  animals. 

"  The  fur  trade  is  the  only  wealth  of  the  country  at  present  available,  and  should, 
therefore,  be  carefully  guarded,  and  left  open  to  all  American  vessels,  under  proper  re 
strictions,  to  encourage  the  development  of  other  interests.  The  fisheries,  for  instance, 
are  very  extensive,  and  a  voyage  for  furs,  if  unsuccessful,  might  prove  profitable  on  the 
fishing  banks.  The  fur  trade  is  the  stimulant  to  go  there,  and  once  there  other  inter 
ests  would  attract  attention.  But  without  some  inducement  ship-masters  would  hardly 
undertake  the  hazards  of  such  a  tedious  voyage,  and  often  a  v,ery  perilous  one. 

"The  protection  of  the  fur-seals  and  other  fur-bearing  animals  can  be  afforded  with 
out  any  such  monopoly  as  is  proposed  by  the  bill  reported  to  have  passed  Congress. 

"  So  far  as  we  have  been  able  to  learn,  fur-seals  only  require  special  protection,  though 
some  provision  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  use  of  fire-arms  in  taking  sea-otters,  and  to 
define  the  seasons  for  taking  any  and  all  fur-bearing  animals.  Fire-arms  must  not  be 
used  either  in  killing  seals,  for  they  will  leave  and  not  return ;  nor  will  it  do  to  kill 
them  near  their  rookeries,  where  the  carcass  would  be  exposed,  for  the  same  result 
would  follow.  They  must  be  driven  in  the  cool  ©f  the  evening  to  the  interior,  and 
taken  with  clubs  the  following  morning,  with  as  little  noise  as  possible. 

"  The  seals  arrive  at  the  islands  early  in  the  spring,  and  should  not  be  interfered  witli 
until  the  end  of  the  breeding  season — the  last  of  summer  or  the  beginning  of  fall. 
The  sealing  season  should,  therefore,  commence  in  September,  and  continue  until  they 
leave,  early  in  November.  The  only  legislation,  therefore,  necessary  is  to  define  the  months 
in  which  seals  may  be  taken,  to  prohibit  the  use  of  fire-arms  on  the  islands  or  upon, 
the  waters  adjacent,  and  to  prohibit  the  killing  of  females  at  any  season  of  the  year 
and  the  young  under  one  year  old. 

"  With  such  good  regulations  and  restrictions  we  can  see  110  good  reason  for  limiting 
the  number  of  seals  that  may  be  taken  annually  to  one  hundred  thousand,  (100,000,)  as 
proposed.  The  limit  creates  a  monopoly,  which  appears  to  bo  the  object  of  the  bill 
alluded  to.  If  more  than  one  hundred  thousand  ( 100,000)  males  over  one  year  old  can  be 
taken,  why  not  allow  it,  for  we  cannot  see  how  it  would  diminish  the  seals.  Besides, 
it  is  much  easier  to  enforce  a  law  protecting  the  young  and  the  females  with  compe 
tition  than  without  it.  An  inspector,  with  only  one  company  to  deal  with,  would  be 
less  apt  to  attend  strictly  to  his  duties  than  if  he  had  the  eye  of  a  large  fleet  of  vessels 
upon  him.  If  competition  were  allowed,  all  would  be  interested  in  having  the  law 
complied  with ;  but,  monopolize  the  trade,  and  every  vessel  not  interested,  visiting 
those  waters,  would  have  to  be  watched,  which  would  be  almost  impossible,  and  would 
use  ill-got  means,  if  any  opportunity  offered,  of  taking  furs  without  sparing  either  the 
young  or  the  females.  If  there  were  no  opportunity,  how  easy  it  would  bo  to  fire  guns 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  islands  to  frighten  away  the 'seals ;  and  who  doubts  the  result  ? 

"The  seals  originally  frequented  the  islands  of  Behring  and  Copper,  still  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  Russia,  and  were  driven  from  them  to  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St. 
George  by  some  such  action  as  we  have  indicated,  and  might  return  or  go  elsewhere  if 
disturbed  in  their  present  rookeries. 

"The  bill  before  Congress  (reported  to  have  become  a  law)  prohibits  the  use  of  fire 
arms,  and  killing  females,  and  males  less  than  one  year  old,  under  regulations  to  be 
made  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  But  it  provides  that  the  Secretary  shall  divida 
the  island  of  St.  Paul  into  three  sections  and  St.  George  into  one  section,  and  that  the 
exclusive  right  of  taking  seals  from  either  section  for  a  term  of  years  shall  be  sold  to 
the  highest  bidder,  designating,  too,  what  class  of  bidders  shall  have  the  rights  to  com 
pete  for  this  trade,  viz :  managing  owners  of  American  vessels,  and  only  those  whom 
the  Secretary  may  deem  competent;  to  fulfill  their  engagements.  Now,  it  is  well  known 
that  there  are  four  organized  companies,  and  that  one  or  all  of  them  have  made  con- 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OP    INDIAN    AFFAIRS.       613 

tracts  with  the  natives  for  a  period  of  three  years.  The  Secretary  would  be  virtually 
limited,  under  the  terms  of  the  bill,  to  consider  their  bids,  because  they  would  be 
deemed  more  competent  to  carry  out  their  contracts. 

"  We  have  ascertained,  howe ver,  that  Americans  can  easily  learn  in  a  very  short  time 
how  to  take  seals  as  well  as  the  natives  ;  but  if  the  bill  in  question  becomes  a  law,  the 
Secretary  would  very  likely  look  to  existing  contracts  with  the  natives,  and  an  act  of 
Congress  would  virtually  give  the  monopoly  of  the  fur  trade  of  the  islands  of  Alaska 
to  a  single  company,  or,  what  we  rather  suspect,  four  companies  in  combination.  The 
effect  would  be  to  render  the  trade  of  no  value  to  San  Francisco  or  any  other  American 
port.  It  would  give  a  few  individuals  the  control  of  the  market  of  furs  who  could,  at 
pleasure,  increase  the  cost  to  consumers. 

"  The  manufacturing  monopoly  has  heretofore  been  enjoyed  by  parties  in  England, 
through  a  permanent  arrangement  made  many  years  ago  with  the  Russian-American 
Fur  Company,  to  purchase  all  their  fur-seal  skins  taken  from  year  to  year.  This  same 
condition  would  very  likely  continue  with  the  lessees  of  the  government,  both  on 
account  of  their  superior  skill  in  manufacturing,  acquired  by  long  experience  through 
the  arrangement  alluded  to,  and  because  monopolists  can  afford  to  pay  a  higher  price 
for  the  skins.  The  skins  would  then,  in  all  likelihood,  be  shipped  directly  to  England 
or  to  this  port  only  in  transit,  and  no  opportunity  offered  to  the  enterprise  and  skill  of 
cur  citizens  to  engage  in  the  manufacture  of  such  luxuries,  upon  which  enormous  profits 
are  always  realized.  We  must  submit  to  have  them  exported  and  to  pay  foreign  labor 
&  large  profit  upon  all  we  consume. 

"We  have  been  told  that  we  have  not  the  skill  to  manufacture  fur-seal  skins  in  thii 
country,  which  can  only  be  exported  to  find  a  market.  The  fact  is,  we  have  had  no 
opportunity  to  acquire  skill  during  the  monopoly  enjoyed  in  England  through  the  ar 
rangement  with  the  Russian- American  Fur  Company.  The  same  result  will  again  fol 
low  if  the  government  leases  the  islands,  and  no  market  will  be  found  in  the  United 
States,  and  we  will  be  obliged  to  import  manufactured  furs  from  England  at  a  heavy 
cost  and  expense,  besides  the  addition  of  our  import  duty. 

"  View  this  as  we  may,  we  must  feel  the  ill  effects  of  such  a  policy ;  and  for  what  pur 
pose  ?  To  enrich  a  few  and  keep  back  the  development  of  the  country  for  an  indefinite 
period.  The  only  inducement  now  to  go  there  is  the  interest  in  question ;  and,  if  open 
to  competition,  many  vessels  will  be  fitted  out  at  this  and  other  ports,  and  the  furs  in 
return  exposed  for  sale  in  our  home  markets,  and  eventually  the  entire  and  very  im 
portant  trade  of  that  country  will  be  enjoyed  by  our  own  citizens.  We  are,  therefore, 
deeply  interested  in  securing  the  passage  of  a  law  allowing  public  competition,  which 
can  be  done  under  instructions  amply  protecting  the  seals. 

''  The  Territory  of  Alaska  was  acquired  by  purchase  at  a  cost  of  $7,000,000  to  the  fed 
eral  government,  and  we  do  not  deem  it  just  to  our  citizens  generally  to  give  a  single 
company,  or  any  number  of  companies,  the  control  of  this  trade,  valued  at  $700,000 
annually,  which,  in  our  judgment,  can  easily  be  increased  double  the  amount.  This 
trade  is  really  the  key  to  the  whole  country,  and  controls  the  fur  trade  on  the  main 
land,  which  is  also  very  valuable,  and  about  which  we  have  said  nothing.  The  object 
of  our  government  should  be  to  develop  the  country,  and  to  encourage  our  citizens  to 
go  there,  by  all  means  in  its  power ;  and  the  unrestricted  competition  in  this  trade  would 
best  promote  that  object:  any  other  policy  would  retard  or  prevent  all  enterprises  con 
nected  with  Alaska.  We  recommend,  then,  the  abolition  of  all  restrictions  not  neces 
sary  to  protect  the  young  and  the  female  seals  ;  and  with  this  end  in  view  we  submit, 
as  a  part  of  this  report,  the  draught  of  a  bill  which  will  afford  ample  protection — at  the 
same  time  open  trade  to  American  enterprise  and  industry. 

"  We  regret,  in  conclusion,  that  our  limited  time  would  not  allow  an  extended  inquiry 
into  the  undeveloped  resources  of  Alaska ;  though,  from  the  incidental  knowledge 
which  we  have  acquired  in  our  investigations  relative  to  the  fur  trade  of  our  islands, 
we  are  persuaded  that  its  resources  are  far  more  extensive  and  important  than  gener 
ally  believed.  We  think  that  the  government  ought  to  extend  its  aid  to  encourage 
emigration ;  and  we  therefore  recommend  the  Chamber  to  evoke  Congress  to  establish, 
at  an  early  day,  a  territorial  government  over  that  country.  And  we  would  also  ad 
vise  the  appointment  of  another  committee  to  collect  information,  and  to  report  as  soon 
as  convenient,  for  the  purpose  of  attracting  public  attention  to  a  territory  which,  if 
properly  developed,  will  prove  to  bo  a  very  valuable  acquisition." 

The  report  is  signed  by  the  committee,  consisting  of  J.  H.  Wise,  C.  T.  Fay.  L.  Ever- 
ding,  1.  P.  Rankin,  and  Washington  Bartlett.  The  report  was  received  and  the  com 
mittee  discharged. 


614        REPORT    OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN    AFFAIRS. 

APPENDIX  V. 

THE  FUR  TRADE  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO,   CALIFORNIA. 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  GAL.,  October  21,  1869. 

DEAR  SIR  :  In  reply  to  your  note,  with  inclosed  letter  from  the  Hon.  George  S.  Bout- 
well,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  at  Washington,  I  will  try  and  give  you  full  and  reliable 
information  on  the  subject,  to  the  best  of  my  knowledge  and  belief. 

The  collection  of  furs  at  Alaska  and  the  Aleutian  Islands  so  far  has  been  very  lim 
ited,  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  population  —  the  necessities  of  the  natives  being  few 
and  easily  supplied.  This  immense  territory,  extending  from  (the  56th  to  the  76th  par 
allel)  Fort  Wrangel  to  Kotzebue  Sound,  is  so  full  of  fur-bearing  animals  that,  in  the 
course  of  a  few  short  years,  an  enterprising  white  population  will  find  profitable  em 
ployment  in  developing  its  great  and,  at  the  present,  unknown  wealth.  The  fur  trade 
of  this  territory,  when  properly  prosecuted  by  competent  parties,  will  yield  boundless 
wealth,  and  will  amount  to  millions  upon  millions  in  the  aggregate,  increasing  from 
year  to  year. 

Answer  to  question  No.  1.  —  a.  Fur  seals  salted  at  St.  George's  and  St.  Paul's  islands  have 
been  entirely  under  the  control  of  Messrs.  Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.  (A  very  limited 
number  came  down  in  the  hands  of  other  traders.)  They,  Hutcbinson,  Kohl  &  Co., 
paying  to  the  natives  twenty  to  forty  cents  per  skin  in  trade  —  that  is,  in  groceries  and 
provisions.  The  season  1869,  no  definite  price  can  be  quoted.  Outside  traders  are 
excluded  from  these  islands  ;  the  only  parties  permitted  on  these  islands  are  the  said 
Hutchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.  and  Williams,  Havens  &  Co. 

1).  Sea  otter  are  paid  for  in  trade,  (groceries,  provisions,  &c.,  at  the  traders'  prices,) 
at  from  twenty,  thirty,  and  in  some  instances  forty,  dollars,  per  skin. 

Answer  to  question  No.  2.  —  a.  Fur-seals  —  proper  classification:  wigs,  middlings, 
emails,  large  pups,  middling  pups,  small  pups  —  are  not  bought  or  sold  in  San  Fran 
cisco  as  per  classification,  but  in  bulk  or  lot  at  so  much  per  skin,  on  an  average. 
This  classification  is  for  shipping,  none  being  manufactured  here. 

6.  Sea  otter  —  proper  classification  :  large  prime,  silver-pointed,  $40,  $50,  and  $60 
per  skin,  gold  prices;  large  prime,  without  silver  points,  $35  and  $40  per  skin, 
gold  prices  ;  middlings,  $30  and  $25  per  skin,  gold  prices  ;  good  cubs,  $15  and  $20  per 
ekin,  gold  prices  ;  pups,  35  to  50  cents  per  skin,  gold  prices  —  for  shipping  purposes 
entirely,  none  being  used  here. 

Ansiver  to  question  No.  3.  —  a.  Fur-seals  —  prices  realized  at  London,  the  only  market 
for  fur  seals  :  wigs,  about  40  shillings  sterling  per  skin  ;  middlings,  36  to  40  shillings 
sterling  per  skin  ;  smalls,  30  to  33  shillings  sterling  per  skin  ;  large  pups,  25  to  30 
shillings  sterling  per  skin  ;  small  pups,  15  to  20  shillings  sterling  per  skin  ;  average 
of  different  shipments,  20.  21  to  29  shillings  6  pence  sterling,  being  the  highest  prices 
paid  in  London. 

Exportation  from  1868  to  1869. 

Shipped  by  Hutchinson  ,  Kohl  &  Co.  to  London  ...........................  190,  000 

Shipped  by  Williams,  Havens  &  Co.  to  London,  via  Honolulu  and  Bremen.  41,000 

Shipped  by  Captain  R.  Waterman  to  London  .............................  10,  000 

Shipped  by  Adolph  Muller  &  E.  S.  Tibbey  to  London  ......................  10,  100 

Shipped  by  A.  Waterman  &  Co.  to  London  ................................  11,  000 

Shipped  by  Adolph  Muller  to  London  .....................................  1,600 

Shipped  by  Russian-American  Ice  Co.  to  London  .............  .  .............  700 

Shipped  by  Hntchinson,  Kohl  &  Co.  to  London,  S  gSffiStaS'Sd  we"  I        *'  «» 
Shipped  by  CaptainBurnstoLondon,  \  fh^ef  Got  14,  1^       \ 


Total  shipment  from  this  port  .......................................     269,  400 

Dry  fur-seals  from  6ape  Flattery  are  full  as  good  as  those  from  St.  Paul's  and  St' 
George's  islands,  and  were  bought  here  at  $4,  $4  50,  $5,  gold  coin. 

N.  B.  —  Fur-seals  have  since  declined  in  Europe  considerably,  15  shillings  sterling 
being  the  outside  limit  for  buying. 

&.  In  March,  1869,  548  sea  otter  were  sold  and  realized  at  the  London  sales,  on  an  av 
erage,  $35  gold  coin  per  skin.  •  In  September,  same  year,  1,065  sea-otter  skins  were 
offered  for  sale,  but  most  of  them  were  withdrawn  on  account  of  the  low  prices  ruling* 
Sea  otter  are  very  low  at  present  ;  $20  to  $25,  gold,  per  skin  is  already  a  large  price  to 
pay  for  it.  The  Old  Russian  Fur  Company  have  sold  the  balance  of  sea-otter  on  hand 
(7,000  skins)  at  St.  Petersburg,  and  in  consequence  the  Russian  government  has  enacted. 
a  law  prohibiting  the  importation  of  sea  otters  ;  hence  the  decline  in  London  and  Leip 
zig.  Since  the  above-mentioned  time  750  sea  otter  have  arrived  by  the  steamer  Alex 
ander,  and  also  150  more  in  the  hands  of  others,  all  to  be  shipped  to  London  and 
Leipzig. 


REPORT    OF    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    INDIAN   AFFAIRS.        615 

c.  General  assortment  of  furs  from  Alaska  aud  the  Aleutian  islands  : 

Average  value  per  akin  in 
San  Francisco,  in  gold. 

Beaver,  very  few  manufactured  here,  inest  all  sent  to  Europe $1  00  to  $2  00 

Marten,  very  few  manufactured  here,  most  all  sent  to  Europe 2  00  to    6  00 

Mink,  very  few  manufactured  here,  most  all  sent  to  Europe 1  00  to    1  50 

Lynx,  very  few  manufactured  here,  most  all  sent  to  Europe 1  00  to    1  50 

Bears,  very  few  manufactured  here,  most  all  sent  to  Europe 3  00  to    6  00 

White  fox,  very  few  manufactured  here,  most  all  sent  to  Europe 1  00  to    2  00 

Land  otter,  all  shipped  to  Europe 1  00  to    3  50 

Fisher,  all  shipped  to  Europe 2  00  to    4  00 

Silver  fox,  all  shipped  to  Europe 5  00  to  25  00 

Cross  fox,  all  shipped  to  Europe 2  00  to    4  00 

Red  fox,  all  shipped  to  Europe 1  00  to    1  50 

Hair-seals,  all  shipped  to  Europe 25  to       50 

I  remain  yours,  most  respectfully, 

ADOLPH  MtJLLER. 
J.  T.  McLEAN,  Esq. 

APPENDIX  V.  1. 
The  fur  trade  at  Sltka. 

Owing  to  the  lively  competition  that  has  sprung  up  since  the  "  transfer,"  all  kinds 
of  furs  press  very  closely  upon  San  Francisco  figures,  if  not  even  a  shade  above.  Most 
of  the  peltries  offered  here  are  of  an  inferior  quality,  but  as  the  opinion  prevails  that 
anything  coming  from  Sitka  must  be  good,  a  ready  sale  is  found  for  all  kinds.  The 
natives  have  learned  many  "  Yankee  tricks,"  and  resort  to  all  of  them  to  effect  a  trade- 
patching,  coloring,  sewing  parts  of  two  skins  together.  The  following  may  be  given 
as  the  current  rates  here,  according  to  the  quality : 

Marten  from $1  25  to  $5  00 

Mink  from 25  to    1  50 

Ermine  from 

Fur-seal  from 

Sea  otter  from 

Land  otter  from 1  50  to    3  50 

Cross  fox  from 2  00  to    5  00 

Redfoxfrom 75  to    150 

Silver  fox  from 5  00  to  15  00 

Black  bear  from 2  00  to    6  00 

Bro  from .• 1  50  to    4  00 

MOUTH   OF  THE   TACCOO   AND   CHILKAHT  COUNTRY. 

It  is  very  well  known  that  the  fur  trade  of  that  locality  is  the  richest  throughout  this 
Territory,  and  we  consider  it  to  be  to  the  interest  of  the  country  to  develop  its  wealth. 
Reports  are  current  that  gold  has  been  found  along  the  Taccoo,  but  the  Indians  would 
not  allow  the  parties  who  left  here  to  ascend  the  river. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  appear  to  manage  things  far  better  than  we  do,  and  in 
spire  more  confidence,  from  their  general  treatment  of  the  Indians. 

The  Chilkaht  country  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  important  portions  of  this 
Territory.  The  Indians  are  very  numerous,  and  set  down  as  a  very  warlike  tribe. 
There  is  a  very  large  trading  business  carried  on  there,  chiefly  in  furs  and  skins ;  the 
market,  however,  is  not  accessible  to  every  one. 


APPENDIX  W. 

The  Editor  of  the  Alaska  Times  says  : 

That  Alaska  abounds  in  resources  of  vast  wealth  we  are  satisfied.  This  Territory  is 
no  barren  country,  nor  is  its  climate  as  uninviting  as  it  has  been  represented. 

OUR  RESOURCES. — They  are  numerous ;  1st.  Our  forests  of  timber  are  not  perhaps 
to  be  surpassed  in  the  world. 

2d.  Our  fisheries  are  not  to  be  equalled  in  any  country  on  the  globe. 

3d.  Our  fur  and  seal  skin  trade  and  facilities  cannot  be  surpassed  or  equalled  out- 


616       REPORT   OF   THE    COMMISSIONER    OF   INDIAN   AFFAIRS, 

side  of  Alaska.  It  is  true  that  the  Russian-American  Company  were  behind  the  age  m 
the  art  of  modern  inventions.  They  knew  but  little  about  the  implements  used  by  our 
American  fishermen,  trappers,  or  miners ;  yet,  in  their  rude  way  of  managing  their 
affairs,  the  Russian- American  Company  sent  millions  of  dollars  from  Alaska  to  the  dif 
ferent  parts  of  the  world. 

In  inventions,  in  implements,  in  competition,  and  we  might  add,  of  every  under 
taking,  they  were  far  behind  the  times. 


APPENDIX  X. 

LAW  OF  CONGRESS  CONCERNING  THE  FUR-SEALS. 

SEC.  C.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  it  shall  be  unlawful  for  any  person  or  persons 
to  kill  any  otter,  rniuk,  marten,  sable,  or  fur-seal,  or  other  fur-bearing  animal,  within 
the  limits  qf  said  Territory,  or  in  the  waters  thereof;  and  any  person  guilty  thereof 
^hall,  for  each  offense,  on  conviction,  be  fined  in  any  sum  not  less  than  two  hundred 
dollars  nor  more  than  one  thousand,  or  imprisoned  not  more  than  six  months,  or  both, 
at  the  discretion  of  the  court ;  and  all  vessels,  their  tackle,  apparel,  furniture,  and  cargo 
found  engaged  in  the  violation  of  this  act  shall  be  forfeited :  Provided,  That  the  Secre 
tary  of  the  Treasury  shall  have  power  to  authorize  the  killing  of  any  of  such  mink, 
marten,  sable,  or  other  fur-bearing  animals,  except  fur-seals,  under  such  regulations  a» 
he  may  prescribe ;  and  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  said  Secretary  to  prevent  the  killing 
of  any  fur-seal,  and  to  provide  for  the  execution  of  the  provisions  of  this  section  until 
it  shall  be  otherwise  provided  by  law  :  Provided,  That  no  special  privileges  shall  be 
granted  under  this  act. 


APPENDIX  Z. 

Census  of  the  Indian  village  (Stikine)  at  Wrangel,  Alask 


Houses. 

8 
H 

"Women. 

OJ 

1 

£ 
O 

Houses. 

i 
a 

Women. 

ft 

| 

O 

First     . 

^ 

5 

4 

5 

Seventeenth  

8 

10 

1 

1 

Second 

4 

4 

1 

1 

Eighteenth 

5 

3 

3 

Third   

10 

1 

10 

Nineteenth  

~) 

5 

2 

2 

[Fourth 

4 

6 

4 

I 

Twentieth 

4 

7 

1 

Fifth 

10 

9 

0 

10 

Twenty-first 

rt 

1- 

0 

Sixth   

3 

3 

4 

0 

Twenty-second  .... 

4 

'   3 

4 

0 

Seventh 

1 

1 

1 

1 

Twenty-third 

7 

1 

4 

Eighth          

6 

4 

6 

4 

Twenty-fourth  

5 

8 

1 

0 

Ninth 

7 

3 

0 

Twenty-fifth 

H 

10 

3 

7 

Tenth 

5 

6 

0 

3 

Twenty-sixth  

6 

9 

7 

4 

Eleventh 

5 

o 

4 

Twenty-seventh 

4 

9 

3 

7 

Twelfth 

2 

2 

1 

0 

Twenty-eighth 

1 

'A 

Thirteenth  

6 

6 

0 

10 

Twentv-niuth  

10 

2 

0 

Fourteenth 

7 

5 

1 

1 

Thirtieth  

2 

9 

5 

6 

Fifteenth 

9 

2 

1 

1 

Thirty-first 

3 

3 

3 

2 

Sixteenth 

2 

4 

3 

3 

Thirty-second 

8 

6 

3 

2 

Total 

159 

183 

77 

89 

Men 159 

Women  and  children 349 

Total...  508 


.. 


